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Varelco

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Posts posted by Varelco

  1. Posted · Report reply

    I will be gobsmacked if they stick a 2.4 NA lump in it. There will be some that are surprised that the second generation will even exist let alone be fitted with an engine which goes against the entire industry. This new car will have to have something future proof, you might get away with it now but this new gen car will be sold way into the 2020s it's got to have something which will keep the model viable during the biggest change in automotive history. 

    Don't forget as of January the new EU fleet wide C02 targets are being phased in. All the manufacturers are facing big penalties for everything over the target. 

     

    spikyone reacted to this

  2. Posted · Report reply

    2 hours ago, nerdstrike said:

    You'll be lucky to do an engine swap for under £20k - there is a huge amount of work involved in even vaguely similar engines going in. It's also important to find good people to do the work. A bodger will give you never-ending troubles.

    How much did your engine swap cost?

  3. Posted · Report reply

    I would be in the supercharger camp if it came to it. The H4 layout and the fact you are retrofitting a FI system makes superchargers a nice neat package plonked on top of the engine. The power delivery keeps with how the car was intended too. I've only really felt the need of a charger when on the motorway, which to be fair this car wasn't designed for and is boring anyway.

     

     

    spikyone and Ade reacted to this

  5. Posted · Report reply

    16 hours ago, Church said:

    380hp SC build in addition for more then advised built engine with strenghtened internals to match also needs uprated clutch, gearbox (heard too often term of grenading gears fir higher power FI builds) and axles. If one takes into account additional costs of accompanying mods, choosing modest boost makes lot of sense.

    When you get to that level of modification and investment it just makes more sense to buy a faster car in the first place.

    280bhp is the sweet spot, that's about 225bhp per ton which is perfect for a road car, after driving Abbeys Harrop charged car around Oxted it definitely doesn't need any extra, more than enough. In my opinion of course.

    Ade reacted to this

  10. Posted · Report reply

    12 hours ago, BRZ-123 said:

    As@deacon has said, there are really only those 3 manifolds that have proven ability to eliminate the whole torque dip. Rest all do it to certain degree and not the best result here in the UK. You have done it the right way in some ways , now with an exhaust + manifold, you have the least restriction and can get the best outcome of an NA tune. With 1 cat , you will pass your MOT in the initial years for sure. Not sure if it has a long term risk as the CAT weakens. It is a good investment and if someone wanted 1 mod that gives the best NA performance gain, then this is it.

    Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk
     

    There are more options than that

    Tomei UEL, Gruppe-S and their derivatives, FT86SF, JDL and OFT all have proven to fill out the torque dip.

  11. Posted · Report reply

    5 hours ago, Twigman said:

    Thread resurrection time......

    Just had an HKS Spec-L catback fitted - rest of zorst is std - but now my attention is turning to the torque hole and manifolds. (yes - I am probably doing this the wrong way round)

    UEL preferred as seems to fill the hole best and makes the burble. There don't seem to be any CATed UEL manifolds anymore (HKS don't seem to make their's anymore).

    Has anyone had any MOT emissions problems with just the OEM secondary CAT in their system?

    Toying with the idea of Tomei UEL (poss +overpipe-is it worth it?)

     

     

    Edit: Oh and any CEL problems? And how are they overcome?

    I have a new unfitted Gruppe-S UEL I might be selling shortly if you're interested. Complete with new OEM gaskets and sump heatshield.

    It's basically a rebranded Tomei manifold but the design is better as the slip joint brackets point towards the engine not the floor (the ones on the Tomei point towards to floor and can hit the floorpan). It is also ceramic coated silver with Performance 1's "Volcanic coating". Unsure on a price yet as it owes me quite a bit.

  19. Posted · Report reply

    9 hours ago, KobayashiMaru said:

     Stuff like this make my blood boil as it gives us all a bad name.

     

     

    The media always stoke the fire! The 86 pulled out of a junction on the 350z which was travelling too fast, they weren't racing, its just unfortunately it happened where loads of kids were standing. Apparently the bystanders block the view of oncoming traffic for any car pulling out of the junction.

  21. Posted · Report reply

    11 minutes ago, Twigman said:

    Me too - but I read on the USA forum that there is a fix...apparently fitting a fatter washer behind the split pin where the shifter joins the linkage fixes it. I've not had the time or inclination to strip out the centre console to try it...yet ...but the gearstick rattle is getting worse - kicks in at 4500rpm most noticeable in 3rd.

    I wouldn't waste your time with that one, it doesn't work. It seems the majority of noise is generated by the little metal collar used for the reverse lift lockout. I have a pdf which was emailed to me with a potential solution if you wanted it? Not a 5 min job though unfortunately.

  22. Posted · Report reply

    If you look at the service schedule you could align it that you do the 20k service every 2 years and just add the air filter onto it, then diff oil on your second service after 4 years, that will mean you just miss the annual oil and filter change and nothing else, but ultimately you aren't saving much. If you was to do it yourself oil and filter is about £50 and an hour or 2 of your time.

  24. Posted · Report reply

    1 hour ago, Luke said:

    Miltek actually state that you can fit the standard tail pipes onto their cat backs. Once fitted it's hard to tell that it's aftermarket apart from the slightly deeper note from it. A few people have said that a weld fails over time but can be replaced under warranty. Also I think they have revised the design to prevent this. Don't quote me on this as I've not had one but I also prefer the standard tail pipes rather than the thin jap slash tips that most make. 

    They still fail even with the revised design. Some people have been through 2 or 3 of these exhausts. They are dog sh*t, plenty of better options out there.

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