Varelco

Do you know what I nearly bought a set of these. I really like the RSF5, then like yourself discovered how heavy they were, and how expensive they were for a gravity cast wheel! I won't buy Enkei wheels, they are overpriced. I can't find anything else like them unfortunately, only Advan AVS Model T5 but these latest versions don't look as good as the original model 5.

RC2s are lovely wheels! Where did you find them? They are indeed a rare sight over here. Good choice.

Bump with a price drop! Now £150

Yeah of course, swings and roundabouts isn't it. Your Volks were designed with the intention of track work, undoubtedly a strong wheel and well proven in that respect. Fortunately our cars are quite light so this in theory should put less stress on the wheels we fit.

^^^ Not true. If the wheels have a 60 degree taper and the nuts can fit in the recess then there is no you can't use the standard nuts.

Its worth noting for those looking for light wheels being forged doesn't necessarily account for everything. For example take Wedssports TC105N, a cast wheel, in the equivalent size to Lauren's forged TE37s they are a mere 6.75kg, makes them porky in comparison. Again Deacon's Fox FX005, a bargain priced cast wheel weighs the same as the TE37s at 7.4kg, just goes to show you don't have to throw tons of money to shed off some unsprung weight

I think my point has been missed. Ultimately if you spend £500 on suspension then more of that investment is going to be into the damper and spring combo than if it was a coilover. There is alot more involved, that 500 quid has to cover a more complicated design (thread shock bodies, collars etc) pillow ball camber plates etc etc. But yeah ultimately still up for debate. This platform is still young and most people go straight for the coilovers option. So who knows.

Bump for a premium set of coilovers. These don't often crop up on sale boards!

What's an upgraded spring? A spring is a spring, it's functionality is simple. The damper which is setup to the spring its mated too is what matters. If you do not need adjustable geometry and various changes in ride height then you are better off spending your money on the best fixed damper/spring set up you can afford. This set up will be better than "basic" coilovers.

Beautiful, make sure you post some pics with them fitted!

Not at the minute my friend, although the supercharger is tempting... If you sell anything and are still interested then drop me a PM.

Bump! Open to offers on this

They must be pretty powerful. I really rate the lights on this car. The best I've ever had. I was driving a Fiat 500x crossover thing earlier this week and they were like tea lights, shocking.

I'd say those GTC's are a closer resemblance to your Titans than the RS05RRs, which are lovely wheels but expensive! Practically forged money. Not fancy anything for Rays or perhaps advan? Their cast wheels are around the same price and weight (if not a little lighter depending on design)

I think the closest thing would be Rota RB, RBX or RKRs, unless Watanabe do larger sizes? EDIT:...If they came in the right stud pattern that is.

Hi Jerrick Could you supply the price list for the RS05RR please. Thanks, Matt

Dont even get me started on that... this car dents so easily. Ive got a paintless dent repair guy saved on bloody Whatsapp, im a frequent customer of his. Hahaha! @smudge has anyone mentioned that you are an angry man?

Its a tough one as im in a similar situation. I like the aggression and fitment of your typical 9-10j wheels but im unwilling to risk ruining the handling dynamics of the car in my efforts for it to look good. Your best bet is to aim for something 8j with a lower offset (around +35) and run 215-225 width tyres. Or find something 9j+ and run stretched tyres to maintain similar of grip. Bare in mind you have compromises with each kind of set up, narrow but low offset wheels will throw off the scrub radius, wide wheels can be heavier and you start to lose ride quality with stretched tyres.

Oh dear. It had so much potiental what a shame, it's ugly. Mazda looks ten times better

@Keethos air con doesn't make a difference mate and seeing as it's being generated from the rear of the car I doubt it's that. @Nigelr32 that's a good call, that kind of sound would make sense with air movement/vibrations.

I've got a strange noise originating from the rear of the car, it becomes apparent as soon as I get the engine off idle. It stays at the same frequency despite engine RPM load or no load, some days it appears louder than others. Take a listen to the video, phone is placed face down on the armrest... https://youtu.be/9YUrE_0t5-c What could it be? Electric fuel pump? Chewie is that you....?

People are getting waaaaayy too caught up on this. There are literally so many variables involved with chassis dynos it’s impossible to determine what’s what. For one you cannot measure crank power from a chassis dyno, so you rely on wheel hp, so it calculated, losses vary between each car. If you aren’t measuring both cars on the same dyno, at the same time, with identical setups and the same dyno set up it throws even more out. Air temperature, pressure and humidty, dyno set up, what gear the pull was made in, tyre pressures, tyre size, transmission and diff oil temperatures (remember that stuff is like syrup) will all have an influence on what numbers the print out reads, engine operating temperature, fuel, the list goes on. For the record mine made 172whp on a Mustang dyno not so long ago. Strong engine? God knows, will be different when it next goes on one. If I’d thrashed it before hand and pumped up the tyres to 50psi probably would of made closer to 180.

Like everybody has said lay off the remap if you are planning any more power related mods. You will benefit more if you do it after you have bolted everything you want on.

All of them.

Lauren 167 at the wheels 201 at the fly?