Church
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Posts posted by Church
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Pitty that 4/5th of very lightest 17" for our PCD are discontinued and could be bought only hunting different auctions/classifieds on many sites for long time.
For example, what would you think about AG Forged SMK Monoblock AG3-SMK26 17x7.5 .. 9.5lbs/4.3kg?
OR RAC Monolites RS110. Or Buddy Club P1 Racing QF (NOT SF). Or Racing Hart CP-035R. I guess still made are only something like Volk CE28N 17x7.5 (6.26kg) and TWS T66-F 17x8 (6.32kg). Kosei 4R 17x7 are 6.35kg and very cheap .. but they are cast, not forged. -
CHOSENMAN007: but do you also drive at 9-10/10 of car capabilities? I don't overestimate my skills, i know that i'd be too scared to go even to 8/10. And it's not as if BBKs will stop faster, braking distance is affected only on tire grip. BBKs affect only how much they can heat up before start fading. If you don't overabuse and do not really need that enhanced heat capacity bit and faster cooling, then BBKs will do NOTHING except hole in wallet. That higher acceleration thus more continuously accumulated heatload on brakes to bled speed before slow speed corners .. it might add up heat on track .. but on daily driving? Unless you usually go 2-3x times the speed limit on public roads
As for wheels .. yes, good forged one size larger rims can weight as much or slightly less then stock size .. but you forget two bits - in larger diameter rims more rotating weight is put closer to the outer side of wheel, and also you can get even more weight savings by upgrading to lighter rims by staying same diameter. Some claim that lower profile can bring sharper turn in .. but not by as much, you can get even more from stiffer tyre sidewall. To me more interesting by several reasons seems going other way, to 16" with something like TWS T66-F, which of 16x7 size weight just 4.82 kg
. Will bring most unsprung rotational weight savings, allow usage of cheaper tyres, add comfort to daily driving, less chance to damage rims on bad roads. Less sharp turn in imho will be compensated by easier/more predictable weight transfer. From what i've seen, those that care about performance over looks, they put very smallest size they can that still clear brakes they use. There is reason why most popular rally size is 15". IIRC even F1 have ridiculously high sidewalls .. but also 15". -
Standard brakes are very good. They just don't have very big heat capacity for long (>10min) track sessions. Perfectly fine for daily driving though or even on track, if you let them cool after 10-11min of racing. If you care much about actual braking performance, imho changing pads to eg. Ferodo DS2500, changing to stainless brake lines, maybe master cylinder brace, and air brake ducts (eg. TF's ones, as unlike AP's don't require removal of fog lights). If you spend time on track often, then you can think of installing Essex AP Racing Sprint BBK kit. Essex Endurance BBK, if car has forced induction and race compound tyres. Essex kits will help with savings on consumables cost, like how much pads and rotors cost and how long last. But yet again, overkill for daily driving. If you care more about looks, then gains per buck, you can consider AP Racing own BBK kits, including for rear wheels. Other vendor BBKs like stoptech/willwood and so on .. they also have bigger heat capacity then stock, but still .. i'd prefer Essex BBKs, where function dominates form. No wonder that many doing actively HPDE/track racing use them.
Judging by your ohlins coilovers choice you are able to spend a lot, but are not too much track focused (IIRC those were among best street coilovers, but not too much focused for track (still better then stock of course, just not main focus). So i'd say - stay stock. Or get expensive for all the wheels AP Racing BBKs, which will also bring some bling with it's painted calipers. It will cost a LOT though. My own choice on having that much money would be Essex Sprint and half of price of Cossworth supercharger kit
.Aaand .. in most cases with Big Brake Kits double check wheel fitment using vendor lists for fitting wheels or vendor supplied wheel fitment templates, which you can print out and put to your wheels to check fitment. I guesstimate, that you may have already installed aftermarket wheel rims aswell.
And please, don't kill wonderful handling of your car just because of wish for bling
. If some BBKs require bigger wheels then 17" - to heck with them. One don't need their oversized rotors for actual braking performance increase. Nor even extra heat capacity is needed on these relatively lightweight cars. But one will see performance decrease (at least in relatively underpowered NA engine form) due installing heavier 18-19-20" rims that could hause such oversized BBK monstrosities. You won't get also weight lightening gains of more reasonable sized BBKs.EDIT
Eek, seems that i answered to last post .. on 1st page
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From my notes from here and there, after ECU reset to lessen dead pedal:
Tun car to accessory power (to power on ECU). Slowly press the accelerator 5 times fully to the floor & depress (for ECU to register 100% pedal movement). Turn on engine.
Not sure about accessory bit, if not, one can turn on w/o pressed clutch. Some fuel trim learning might still be in place though.
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It's not price i care about. One time purchase of 500 or $1K .. it won't suddenly bankrupt me, but rather feeling that i could have chosen better one. Simply wishing to get best available at purchase time, but unable to do so based on so far available info due most parts tested/dyno-ed in different ways and not directly comparable due that, hence i always welcome chances to see more test results for supposedly top parts. It's hard to get lot of extra gains while staying NA and petrol, instead of going forced induction and/or E85, hence i'd welcome even just extra 5whp/wtq some bolton part can provide over other .. if it's one time purchase.
And not too sure what to think of PLM .. i recall that painful process of Nameless developing it .. 11 prototypes, year of development, lot of flak from community for taking too long .. and now that is rendered nul by somebody simply copying their work. From what i've heard, they did same with copying JDL headers in past aswell. Half price offer is important enough for many to go with that instead of supporting companies with non shady business practices for genuine but more expensive products, so certainly Nameless business will take heavy hit.
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I'm interested a lot in PTuning's header performance aswell. Hard to decide which headers to go with, Nameless, PTuning, JDL EL v2, HKS, Aceheader's. Most available info results comparing apples to oranges, due different stock baselines, differences, if tested tuned or untuned, if on petrol or E85, different other exhaust and intake bits.
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It's normal state of things, if everything goes well, people rarely post back about good experience, it's "as expected". If something goes wrong, is when it gets voiced, hence sometimes might seen as things being worse then they really are on average. Seen that happen on several forums related to different products. Good experiences are usually silent (it's not as if i suggest for everybody happy with his kit to start suddenly PM or post about it, just explained why public impression based mostly on negative experience only can be skewed/non-objective. If one out of ten happy customers post back, and one with issues post as well, it might generate impression of 50% failure rate for people reading that.).
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Spoiler .. IIRC i read one post, that 3rd brake light in stock low spoiler/trunk won't do, as that brake light needs some minimum height from ground (just like front fog lights height from ground is regulated). Don't remember in which gt86 forum i saw that, and about which country rules it was. My guess is that it might also be the reason why toyota added that 'spaceship' floating above parcel shelf for car to be legal universally in as many countries/markets as possible. Though hmm .. maybe not, after all, these aftermarket brake lights in top of rear window are even higher then that. Though then .. hmm, but won't they limit already little headroom there is for kids on backseats?
.. who cares
. I'll replace with windowtop mounted one and will forget about this issue/spaceship. -
Don't know how it's in UK, but here in LV if car in stock has 3rd brake light, it MUST have it to pass yearly inspection (of course it's up to chance/inspector checking, if it will be known/noticed).
Meanwhile i hope that this guy will resume making his 3rd brake lights sooner. Like it due its blended single bar color tone more. Lightweightness due CF usage matters less, but price compared to Intec one might be putting off more people.
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So that is basically saying just do one or the other, but not both together from his experience?
I went for a lightweight flywheel over a crank pulley, however will probably get the lightweight alternator and water pump pulleys further down the line.
Getting it fitted next month so will see what effect it has.
From what i've understood - yes. Both - only if at reasonable lightening extent (most purchasable are lightened too much for that imho) and/or CP keeps harmonics dumpening functions (i found only two non-OEM and mentioned their cons (in my eyes)). Or if it's overtuned track-only car, engine of which not expected to live past 10K anyway due other reasons
, not just busted crankshaft(?) bearings, and will be completely overhauled/rebuilt often.Then again if one wishes to go for extracting every small bit of performance out, one may go for undersized pulleys, or AC pulley delete kit, so that at same crank revolution count auxiliary systems are 'turned' less times due diameter differences, or not turned at all, freeing up power at crank/lessening total rotational inertia to leave more for transmission/wheels. Probably safer engine life wise, yet same results, as simply installing both flywheel and crank pulley of lightest aftermarket purchasable ones. And one can also lighten mentioned driveshaft, use lighter wheels, lighter brake kits at that. For pure NA tracking/racing i would also consider rising final drive ratio on engine/transmission side.
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From what i've gathered up from posts (including views of tuners/service guys that rebuilt many boxer engines) in several threads of other side of pond forum, lightened crank pulley (on rest of pulleys gains are minimal unless one also decides to go undersized) OR lightened flywheel are fine, just not both in same car, otherwise seen almost busted bushings even just after 10K miles, due no harmonic dumpening in lightened CPs.
LW FW might be better choice, but is much more work to install, as for replacing in front LW CP and other pulleys is easier/faster. Saw also post that better LWFW on manual & LWCP on auto, no clue about reasoning.
Idle is not much affected by these lightened parts. In one case reported idle rpms fluctuating case was found to be caused by AC kicking in every some seconds. Daily drivability is fine (except one case whith both FW & CP lightened, where owner ended with putting stock CP back).
Not much to see in dyno gains, but lightening rotational mass positively for most affected real driving/acceleration/feel. Except that with just pulleys upgrade that was not too drastically, most reporting more noticeable gains also upgraded to aftermarket driveshaft (alu or CF, PST or DSS).
Upgrading to LWCP on auto might require extra tool to fix rotating of shaft. Manual can do with in gear & parking brake.
Aftermarket Pulleys weight data (and comparison vs stock)
There are two dumpening upgrades to CP with dumper, but:
ATI's undersized , Fluidampr weights more then OEM
"Thank you for your patience as I checked with our Technical Services Department regarding your message below. They advised that the crank pulley is a pulley and nothing else. It is not used as a harmonic damper/balancer."
Few vendors making/selling lightening pulleys like Perrin / FT86 Speedfactory and others, posted that due nature of boxer natural balancing, these engines should be safest to run with lightweight pulleys/flywheel from all the engine types. However:
Quotes from Infamous Performance posts (#1 #2 #3 #4..):
A LWCP will not destroy your bearings.
A LWCP combined with a LWFW in MT cars is not recommended as it has been proven to cause bearing failures in horizontally opposed blocks.
A LWCP will add a slight amount of performance to your car.
A LWCP can increase fuel efficiency, but most never see it and it is not the number 1 selling point. Increased acceleration due to decreased mass is the number 1 selling point...
Customer chose the FW over the pulley. I have seen it so many times I never recommend both. If I see both, I note it on the invoice and inform the customer.
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I have now rebuilt 2 FA20 motors (1 super charged and 1 turbo charged) that were using a LWCP and a LWFW. Both had bearing issues just like the EJ's do. I confirmed with another local builder and they too have seen the same issues. I build about 3 motors per month. They build about 40. We have the same experiences and we make the same recommendations.
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I have not seen a LWFW destroy bearings on its own, unless... it was too light. On an EJ anything
under 14lbs is pushing it. 12lbs is a no go. At 12lbs the FW is so light it causes misfires.
I have not tried to find the breaking point in an FA. It gets kind of expensive, lol...
Exactly, 1 or the other. Both is what goes boom.
On an AT you can feel the slight improvement in acceleration. Throttle response is snappier and the car gets off the line quicker. If you are uber nice to the throttle while cruising you can usually see a 1-2mpg increase as well.
On the MT it is not as noticeable. Same changes, just a smaller dose.DIY links: Aftermarket Crank Pulley Install Removing the Crank Pulley
Misc. posts from several threads:
1) The stock flywheel is not dampened. The stock pulley is.
2) Look at the diameter of the flywheel compared to that of a crank pulley. You're reducing the rotational mass. However, because the diameter of the flywheel is much larger than that of the pulley, you're reducing more rotational mass and you will get MUCH better benefits with a lighter flywheel. And this is without the risk of a undampened pulley..
Raceng: This can be done as a DIY. The hardest part is getting the crank pulley bolt to loosen.
It requires a breaker bar and some effort. The other pulleys are simply bolt off and bolt new pulley on...
The crank pully is the only one that sounds like you need to seriously pay attention to.
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The other pulleys are pretty straight forward minus the alternator pulley, which sounds like
a pain in the ass to get the bolt off..
Worth installing aftermarket headers (those going front & up) after pulleys...
One more bit - most oem & aftermarked pulleys are balanced on their own, not as whole mounted set. IIRC even many subary dealership techs simply slap on, w/o any complete engine balancing later on. So one can ignore balancing marks on pulleys (which are also no manufacturing defect, like some purchasers guessed).
Sorry for necro posting, but thought that it may help others to not redig all nfo individually.
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Imho lines are not that bad, IF those are ones including also trajectories of back end with fully steered wheels. Unfortunately such lines would need to be calibrated relative to stock camera position/car model. If no stock camera placement/not stock calibration of these lines as in our case, then lines just worsen image, indeed. Don't see need in 3 stepped lines showing distance to obstacles in the rear though, even if somewhat shown right relative to camera placement. One sees bumper of car, one sees what's in surroundings/back of car, one sees if car will touch/hit anything or not, how such lines may help? :/
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I'd appreciate some update as-well. Nothing wrong with waiting, you too have life and do this as hobby, but it's easier to wait/plan other car maintenance/modding bits if it's known at least approximately how much left to wait.
D2 Brakes??
in Mechanical
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Lauren: search for TWS on japanparts.com. Cheapest i could google for. (IIRC $450.28 a piece in 16x7)
EDIT
Ouch. On second sight it was about brakes, not rims. Hmm, couldn't find how to delete posts :/