Graham86
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Posts posted by Graham86
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Credit card company is now involved, as the original seller has gone into administration. Yes it's "has" a 2 year warranty, but xtrons have said go to the seller and when I told them they had gone into administration (which they already knew), it's going to cost me £160 for parts.
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I had a the pro elite and it's okay. Occasionally I manage to sound the horn, but I find if you park with the wheel so the tail of the lock is pointing to the window and the black lock part by the door, it's no worries.
I got one because a Merc down my road got stolen, without the keys, as it's keyless entry and start. The other way to combat the keyless issue, it to keep them in a metal box.
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What country are you moving to? I'm going through the same, as I'm moving to Spain in January for work.
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I've been offered a new main bored, at the price of £160. Thanks Xtrons.co.uk 🙄
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Car Audio Point had a Chinese national as a director and from digging about, they were Xtrons UK.
Now I’m certain there’s no warranty, I’ll open it up and replace the thermal paste and see how it goes. The EAN Group email has given me a firmware update, built late 2018. -
Be wary of buying a Xtrons head unit
Mine has gone faulty after 9months and now struggling to get it fixed under warranty. The original seller has gone into administration, Car Audio Point, part of the EAN group. As when you search for EAN group it points you to Car Audio Point’s website, which has now gone.
I contacted Xtrons directly via their website and I have been told by them to contact the original seller. The support emails are coming from EAN group.
Xtrons claim their units come with a 2 year warranty, but this may not be the case anymore…. I’ll let you know of any further developments.
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Have you got a lot of fuel on overun and it's igniting in the exhaust?
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I did agreed value 6months ago, with the Cosworth charger and all new exhaust and it wasn't much more than that.
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Nothing to do with the engine, it's injector or injector control. The noise you here will be one cylinder dieseling if the injector isn't firing, or not being told to fire, or the injector itself is making the noise, if it's not happy. The reason it's only at higher revs is you have 2 sets on injectors, high and low pressure, it's probably the high pressure one that's giving an issue.
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13 hours ago, MartinT said:I've now spoken with Mark at Abbey Motorsport and he has been very helpful, answering my questions and sending me a quote by return.
I need to do some logistics planning but I'm now looking at the Harrop as my potential solution. It all fits in with my use as a daily car, for road use only, mindful of a very progressive feel especially in the wet and the snow, near OEM installation looks and fairly quiet, making great use of the TD manifold and catback exhaust and HKS intake duct, retaining the stock 2nd cat, limiting the maximum torque in the map to preserve the engine and enjoying the charger's big engine feel.
Have I missed anything?
I'd be interested to see this when it's done as a comparison.
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2 hours ago, Ade said:I agree with some/most of the bits Will is saying but I will add a few (try to be non biased) to that.
Design c. I am not aware of anyone needing to cut a section, but yes you may need to put a small dent using a ball peen hammer.
Design e. Due to it compactness the intake runner lengths are not tuned properly. They are too short. This is one of the reasons why the Cosworth running 0.5bar makes the same power as the harrop running 0.7bar boost. The other reason is the bigger more draggy TVS and the tuning to balance cylinder pressure which can only be done with incylinder pressure sensors (standard tunnig with OEMs and serious motorsport).
Performance e. Its a fair point the most powerful Cosworth is their dev car running ~330hp. However, I am not aware of high power 400hp harrops that use pump gas? All E85 which help massively with high IATs. General advice I see is 12psi max on pump and you need E85 if you go for more boost due to heat and pulling timing.
Cooling: Yes at 280hp both are fine, but running high power is where is were the nearly twice as good cooling (Coswroth is +15iat, harrop +25iat, Edlebrock +30iat) would come into it. Where the Cosworth could be +35iat @400hp, the Harrop will be +60C and the Edblebrock +70C.
Tuning: Here is my main disagreement. The Cosworth was tuned on an engine dyno and it specific to that kit. You cant take things Matt has done differently with their SC kit and apply them to the other kits. Its not just the engine dyno tuning either, they use widebands in every exhaust runner, and cylinder pressure sensors to properly dial in each cylinder and evaluate things like how well the stock knock sensor work ect.. Its a different kettle of fish.
Tuner dont typically use widebands and thermocouples in each cylinder runner, they just poke a wideband sensor up the exhaust. They certainly cant measure cylinder pressure and balance them out or evaluate if the knock sensor is doing a good job or not.
For me the defining decision to go Cosworth was the tuning. Yes most people are happy with dyno or road tuning but for me I wanted the real deal OEM engineered solution.
If I were choosing now, I would be on the fence a bit for some of the reasons Will has given and the fact that Cosworth are getting out of the game. Matt@cosworth still gives excellent support and he isnt likely to leave Cosworth any time soon as he is very well respected there, but you never know....
This is interesting, I've not had to cut or dent anything for my fitment. I have a bit of hard rubber just to stop it wearing the paint.
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I wouldn't part from my Cosworth charger, after having to make a similar choice. I fitted it myself about 6 months ago and and from an engineering point of view, it's very good indeed. Very good support too.
Ade reacted to this -
Mines the same from Roller Doors ltd.
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You can get them 3d printed with full infill
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I'm probably moving to Spain later this year. Does anyone know about having a modified car in Spain and what is permitted?
So far I've fitted a supercharger and modified exhaust. I can either import my car or buy one there and transfer the parts (if I can find one, only found 2 GT86s online in Spain, so far).
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9 hours ago, VAD17 said:Thats right, so if anyone is interested in the group buy pls specify which version you would like.
I would be up for it, can try to organise a group buy if we have 4 more members interested
Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk
I'd be interested for a 12-16 model. I can fit myself and can help others.
VAD17 reacted to this -
That's cheap for the plugs from the dealer! Mine were £85 the other month. Is that plus VAT?
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4 hours ago, Angelina said:Just phoned my local dealership as mine isn’t running cold enough . They quoted £170, l didn’t realise how old this thread was so said rgg do it for £100. They have offered to price match 😁. This will be the second time in less than 3 years. They had checked for leaks last time and found none. ☹️
They only check the pipework normally. Ifthe leak is integral to the compressor, they won't find it very easy.
If you run your air con at least once a month for 30mins, you should be fine. Otherwise the oring seals dry up in the compressor and leak. The gas works as a lubricant.
Angelina reacted to this -
9 hours ago, Notaricer said:
I have been using Michelin pilot sport 4s so I don’t know if that makes a difference, and between 700 and 800 miles a month. I don’t even spin them up regularly I don’t feel, the odd doughnut at a car meet but never enough to deem 2 months of use. I think I’m going to change to pilot sport 2 for the back and see what they’re like. Honestly, my fuel is so bad that I feel like there’s a leak in my tank haha, if I idle it for like half an hour I’ll have use an 1/8 of a tank easy. And this is without using heated seats air con etc etc.
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkFair play. Is it N/A or forced induction?
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19 hours ago, Neil-h said:Yeah think i'd have to speak to Tegiwa and find out, they don't list Verus on their brands listing but Verus have them down as their EU dealer.
So how much did the splitter/diffuser cost?
If you do get to the point of wanting to order, I'm sure others would want bits too, me included, this may bring the costs down a little.
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7 hours ago, Notaricer said:
Just depends how you use the car I suppose, I spend around £300 a month on fuel alone. Need 2 rear tyres every 2 months and 2 front tyres every 6 months. My girlfriend has had 2 BMW’s and spent next to nothing on them
, plus the 2 BMW’s she’s had we’re £20 a year in tax. These are £260 I think
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkWow tyres that often, you must push it really hard all the time! That or you are running a very soft compound of tyre. I spin up the rears on mine regularly, and don't go through them that quickly. How many miles do you get for £300?
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What did they sell for originally?
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The plunger in the bonnet is on a light bracket, I knocked mine a few weeks back. With one hand you can put it back in place.
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3 hours ago, mart86 said:I've seen a few issues with overheating on the px5 unit this is based on and people installing new thermal paste and heat sinks. Can you download a temperature app and check? Are you using the head units amp to power speakers? I've used a separate amp since installing which is why I may not have encountered any overheating.
The only thing that's changed in the time it's been installed, I've swapped the dash facia from the OEM 2 part plastic, to a 1 peace. The new is a snug fit, round the front, but I can't image that and the removal of a panel gap has caused extra temperature to be trapped? I've made sure all the cables aren't trapped up against the rear of the unit.
I'm using the head unit amp.
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I've opened it up for anyone that's interested to see what’s inside. The heatsink is miles away from the chip and the thermal pad looks like it would act as an insulator, more than a conductor.