Mike
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Posts posted by Mike
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6 hours ago, will300 said:Update 04/07/2020 - Bedford Autodrome Trackday Video #1
Here's my fastest lap from the day with data overlay. For some reason full throttle only shows as 80%, treat this a flat out
That's normal afaik, the throttle is only open 80% at WOT.
Unrelated, is your gauge working or is it just the angle / camera that doesn't pick it up?
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14 hours ago, Lauren said:Welcome. I saw your post about headlights on the other forum. They don't look like standard headlights, or they are the lesser ones from a Primo or lower spec car. The DRL should be in the headlight unit and is a strip. Has the car had any history in terms of accidents? The OEM headlights are very expensive. I wonder if someone has replaced the headlights as I can't work out any other reason why you would not have the HID units with LED DRL's in. I also noticed you have a 61 plate which pre-dates the release of the car by at least 5 months. Guessing a private plate?
Front bumper has no headlight washer jets either so more than likely a new bumper?
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Either rogue motorsports manifold or speak to Mike and see if TD can sort something out under some form of warranty as it's not exactly fit for purpose tbh
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38 minutes ago, Deacon said:I had -2.5° on flex As and could have gone higher
Pretty sure mine are maxed out and around 2.2 degrees. I suppose if you lowered more, you'd get more camber?
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Don't think you can get 2.5 degrees with the Flex As, usually it's a little over 2 but not 2.5
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19 minutes ago, Deacon said:Finding them too softly valved? That's what I thought and led me to the Motons.
Tein released some which are between the SRC's and the MonoSports. They'd be interesting to try but not heard of anyone running them.
Yep, until track activities resume, there's no point in replacing them yet. May get round to it one day...
Deacon reacted to this -
If you're using the track to compare, I wouldn't even put Flex As in the mix tbh, I keep being tempted to switch back to the mono sports now that my car isn't used much at all.
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My reasonably new battery has never read over 13v with the car off... think the highest has been 12.7v and that's classed as fully charged etc
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You can usually get things cheaper from Japanparts. My TRD aero fins were cheaper than UK companies were charging. Even something cheapish like the eurowinker indicator relay was cheaper via japanparts than partbox (even with club discount)... things just take a little longer to arrive.
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Having bought a front wing myself, the boxes are huge with plenty of space around the wing. Not surprising when you realise how flimsy the things are... as I only had my 86, I had to leave the box behind at the dealer
Tweedbean reacted to this -
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Decided to get the kinetic aerial. Fitting isn't that bad, but it's something you work out how to do exactly while doing it, so a pain in the arse first time around but probably a lot easier next time.
Don't need to drop the entire headlining, can get away with just the passenger side trim bits, even then it's only the A & C pillars. Took almost all of the old aerial cable out except the piece from the bottom of the A pillar to footwell. Had some blue bits to fit to replace the standard grey trim pieces so was taking all of the center console bits out anyway so ran the new cable along the top of the footwell and up to the back of the head unit. 5m is a little long but nothing that'll leave you with a mass of cable hanging around.
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Didn't think that was an option as the aerial is already amplified? Splitters I've seen say they won't work with an amplified aerial
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15 minutes ago, Badger said:What is the model year of your car? 2015 onwards has a shark fin.
Sent from my LYA-L29 using Tapatalk
It's a 2013 plate so the old style aerial.
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Looking at Martin's thread, the BRZ is different, will drop the head lining and have a look what mines like.
Potentially fitting a reverse camera along the passenger sill so would do the dab aerial at the same time. Not a fan of going near the curtain airbags... I've seen some YT videos of people putting cables over them... 😑
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5 minutes ago, Badger said:Hi Mike, it's a complete loom from the aerial down as mine isn't amplified. I dropped the rear most section of the head lining to change the aerial over then using some strong cable, pushed it to the front of the car then tapped the new aerial cable to it to pull it through, then run it down the pillar to the dash and too the radio. Running the cable took about 10 mins
Sent from my LYA-L29 using Tapatalk
Ah, the standard one wasn't amplified? Is that a BRZ thing? The 86 one is afaik. The model you mentioned shows a power input + amplified on dabonwheels.
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@Badger can you get away with using the existing cabling for FM+power and just need to route the DAB cable whatever way works? Looking at what you have to remove (basically most of the interior) to get the stock cabling out, it's probably not worth it for DAB!
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Ah, ecutek app + dongle?
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How have you been logging the IAM?
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I'll be honest and say you had more joy than I thought you would have. The previous dealer (if it was different) clearly messed up doing the original work and I would have thought Toyota UK would just point the finger at them and tell them to foot the bill?
On the up side, it sounds like the dealer doing your recall knows what they're doing and should be able to check the engine.
You should be able to get a warranty on the engine because the recall work should give you a year, and it'll be pretty hard to distinguish between oil starvation events if another one happens?
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It depends on the track, at Oulton Park I'm sure I got less than 13mpg fill up to fill up (includes the short journey to the track).
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You'll get around 10mpg from a stock car on a track day. I've had to fill up after 100miles on track before...
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It's not the pedal, it's in the engine bay. Just needs re greasing properly. It's behind the engine near the top, just open the bonnet and get someone to press the clutch pedal, it'll be the only bit that moves...
jw191 reacted to this -
Trolley jack goes on the painted cross member behind the under trays for the front, and the diff for the rear I believe. Front can be tricky, mine needs the car raising so it will clear the front bumper.
I just use the scissor jack to change wheels, never had an issue, even on a sloped drive, handbrake on one wheel holds it fine.
Maybe black was a mistake...how do I keep you clean!!
in Cleaning & Detailing
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I wouldn't necessarily say avoid the spray on ones, unless it's bit of effort to do them. For example, the auto finesse one is spray on, pressure wash off which takes a few minutes to do the whole car so just do it every other wash. Downside I've found (and I guess a proper coating would have this) is that you easily end up with spots when it rains...