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Mike

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Posts posted by Mike

  5. Posted · Report reply

    1 hour ago, Whizo said:

    The TRD aero fins are also on my list.  Where did you source those mate. They cost an arm and a leg in the U.K.  

    I see what you mean about the bigger items, but some of the savings are crazy, Tein coilovers and the Invidia N1 are about £150-£200 cheaper at a minimum.  So just for those two items you’re saving £300-£400!!

     

    https://www.japanparts.com/parts/detail/43911 for the aero fins, with vat + customs on top, think it worked out at £220 instead of the £265 in the UK

  6. Posted · Report reply

    You don't get stung by customs unless they over charge you which is very rare.

    I've ordered bits from Japan before - the Valenti indicator relay and the TRD aero fins, even with VAT + customs charges they were cheaper than any UK supplier, and in the case of the indicator relay, probably got it earlier than I would have if I ordered it from the only UK supplier :P 

    If you're importing, it'll take longer and you run the risk of it being a nightmare to send back if there's an issue. I wouldn't do big bulky items like wheels/tyres/suspension from outside the UK for that reason.

    Not sure if the vlands are any cheaper in the US, they're pretty cheap direct. US prices will be without sales tax too as well.

  7. Posted · Report reply

    I left my car last winter for ~2 months and the brakes didn't stick at all...

    They have stuck previously and held the car on a sloped drive way. Hopefully this is small enough that you don't really read it and only the sentence above and makes you get the BBK!

    Luke reacted to this

  8. Posted · Report reply

    I've got a HEL kit still in a box somewhere for the reason Maurice mentions. Not sure if thinner pipe work would work fine though. It might even be possible to use the HKS sandwich plate with the rest of the HEL kit, I know I looked at Maurice's at one of the sprints but not in detail.

    The thermostat will always be open slightly to avoid having cold oil mixing with hot engine/oil. While you're right in it doesn't need to be 100c to burn any water off, I'd prefer it to boil off than evaporate away!

    I've also got a forester cooler (one that uses the coolant to cool the oil a bit) somewhere in another box, no reason other than I buy things without thinking at times and haven't got round to getting it fitted :D Doesn't provide the best cooling compared to one that'll use air, but it doesn't have the downsides of over cooling in the winter months.

  9. Posted · Report reply

    53 minutes ago, gavin_t said:

    As their lines don't have the shock mounting that was my worry that they wouldn't be secure etc. Although if others have not encounter issues maybe I am over thinking things.

    Mine are fastened to the suspension at the bottom.

  10. Posted · Report reply

    I wired the parking brake to the ground, don't think it does anything for my head unit, but if you're not stupid, it makes no difference if the head unit thinks you're always stopped. 

    Think pin 2 on the 28pin is correct for reverse, pink one? If you've got a multimeter just check the pin for 12v in/out of reverse to confirm. 

  13. Posted · Report reply

    Although our pumps have E5 labels on them, our Synergy Supreme+ 99 is actually ethanol free (except, due to technical supply reasons, in Devon, Cornwall, the Teesside area, Scotland and NW England).

    Doesn't say how much ethanol or the exact areas / stations that are included from what I can find... 

  17. Posted · Report reply

    Fitting the cossie baffle plate isn't that high really. From what I can remember, a large chunk (almost half?) is down to the sealant being expensive - then a couple hours of labour for removal, putting the plate in and applying the sealant. Car then stays overnight for it to cure but obviously you're not paying for that time. I had other things done at the time but I'm sure it was around a similar price you've been quoted.

    James7 reacted to this

  19. Posted · Report reply

    3 hours ago, Deacon said:

    It's probably not clipped in properly. Mine wasn't at first. Once they're in place properly they don't move at all.

    Yea, I've figured it's not in properly. Getting it in properly isn't the easiest though with the dash not being rigid. Tape is fine for now as I need to move the gauge elsewhere otherwise it's mostly useless with it getting too hot. 

  20. Posted · Report reply

    42 minutes ago, Leeky said:

    Block8Head gauge pods are quite popular and clip in to your dash to replace your existing air vent.

    I personally went with a Scangauge2 for an all in one digital gauge solution.

    mine doesn't clip in that well, had to tape it down at Croft at the weekend because it wouldn't stay in and was rattling around half hanging out!

  22. Posted · Report reply

    I've got the GPS unit stuck to the top of the head unit, works mostly fine. It did have a period of misreading the speed but not sure if that was just poor signal as it rarely happens. Apparently the stock GPS unit for the satnav is on top of the head unit so shouldn't be an issue.

    The only issue with it stuck on top of the head unit means I need to take the vent out above the head unit, then unstick the GPS unit before removing the head unit. Not something you need to do often though...

    Ridowh reacted to this

  23. Posted · Report reply

    Rear driver unit - mine is placed passenger side in the rear quarter. There'll be an easy tap in point there as the cabling for the lights/boot run down that side. You then just route the cable to the drivers side motor along the back of the rear seats and back to the motor.

    Front driver unit - mine is placed behind/above the glove box, again, plenty of places you could tap into because of the stereo wiring etc.

    Controller is generally placed over the passenger air bag light below the stereo so you can pick up a power source from the stereo again.

    Earthing points - plenty behind the stereo, just pop an eye connector on and re-use an existing bolt. For the rear you can use one of the light nuts, just file some paint off so you get a proper contact to the body panel.

    Same as Lauren though, RRG in Macc fitted mine as I didn't fancy working out how to route all the cabling at the time I fitted but I'd probably do it myself now as it's not a difficult job really. When you do the motors, just remember they are different thread sizes front/rear... don't be an idiot and keep trying the wrong size like I did :D 

  25. Posted · Report reply

    If you're not sure it worked before, I'd drop the headlining (just do the 3 push clips) and disconnect the aerial base, remove the head unit and check for continuity with a multi meter. 

    You could also check for a voltage on the wire providing power to the aerial. 

    If the wire is good then you're probably looking at the aerial base and it's either toast or just needs drying 

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