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Kodename47

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Posts posted by Kodename47


  1. It's nice to hear that you are getting reasonable mpg. I will get a remap at some point, but I don't think I will be flicking through maps, so I'm intersted in how your mpg is affected when in the performance map. What about how it goes like though? ;)

     

    Did you map it on Tesco Momentum? Adrian reckons that Shell is the way to go for maximum advance. I use little else, I admit.

    The stock map does run very rich, I'm guessing for safety due to the high compression. Even the performance maps should be more efficient than the stock map. Especially when you can reduce/remove the fuel trims as obviously this has a big effect on how the car runs.

    This is the OEM map:

    Stock%20Fuel%20Map.jpg

    I've highlighted the area that you naturally hit when going full throttle. Low 11/High 10 is rich by any standard, my car doesn't even go into 10s now. Decent tuning should always benefit in both instances once you start tying the systems in together. I managed a good average of 39mpg on my run up to Cosworth last week.

    And yes, Shell VP is the way to go. Seems to have better knock resistance and helps keep the engine cleaner by all accounts.


  2. 380bhp on a stock engine is risky though I can understand nobody wanting to warranty that. But given that 300bhp feels like more than enough, I'm not getting the appeal of 380bhp. 

     

    I too have already gone down the route of changing exhausts and all that. My car came delivered with the Milltek and Injen and of course I've added all the other bits now. So I can't buy any Cosworth kits anyway as it makes no sense.

    The 330/380 is the stage 3 with internal work.

    You could buy the stage 1.3 upgrade pack to get the manifold should you wish.


  3. Copied from my other post:

    Don't forget that the tune also includes the ECUtek cable which is £250ish in it's own right.

    FWIW, I think the 1.1 isn't far off, £2000-2200 is reasonable.

    The 1.2 will likely be using a much higher quality cat than most aftermarket HFC pipes, Milltek/Cobra etc use decat pipes. These cost money and are required for some European approval. So maybe the extra £800 is justified. A decent manifold is going to be £800-1000 with that kind of heat coating.

    I don't think its fair to comment on the stage 2 kit. I doubt they'll remove the stock airbox before stage 3 based on what I asked. But it will be more than £3-3.5k, the other systems on the market are.


  4. The original NSX and Supra were direct price comparators. Both c. £60k I believe if you disregard the NSX-R. Very different machines but from the days where all the Japanese manufacturers had flagship cars all in that price band.... Mitsi GTO, Nissan Skyline GTR, Honda NSX and Toyota Supra.

    I'll be shocked if the FT-1 comes out at a much lower price point to the NSX, but that's just how I think it will happen. If not it will fall into the price bracket of the GTR. If they've talked about a KERS type system in the GT86 then no doubt that's what they'll use on the FT-1.

    I feel that they won't go FI on the 86, we'll see a larger engine or a hybrid.

    Also, with the £ to Yen rate improving, hopefully we should see the cost of the cars begin to drop a bit.


  5. No doubt Toyo will now launch a 'super hybrid' model and blow my predictions into the weeds....

    They have been looking into it for the Mk.2 GT86, I thought that was common knowledge?

    If the new NSX has it, I'd be highly surprised if Toyota's flagship sports model doesn't. Electric motors produce torque much earlier than any combustion engine. The FT1 would have to directly compete with the NSX and that already has a very high standard to live up to.


  6. I wouldn't touch Nankangs with a bargepole. I'm happy to be proved otherwise but until I've tried a set of Nankangs and found them to be good, I wouldn't consider them.

    You can try my track tyres if you like? However I probably wouldn't use the NS2 on the road.


  7. Current, most up-to-date UK/Euro/Aus Manual Rom:

    ZA1JA01G

    The new one is:

    ZA1JA02G

    Auto is just a different letter at the end, I can't remember off hand which (F/H).

    I bet that most are on the old ZA1J700G, there is also cal that most would have been "updated" to on the early idle issues and that's ZA1JA00G.


  8. Rumour has it that the Aussies are getting a new G series ROM which we suspect to be the same as the latest US ROM that is to do with improved idle controls. The UK & Europe also use the G series so there may be a new dealer update available soon if that's worth a punt....

     

    I'm waiting on it to filter through ECUtek as they tend to get them before the dealers do.


  9. But would adding some small pacers to the stock wheels work like Spec had to do with his K-Sport ones?

    Possibly, might be worth seeing if the Yanks have done it or if Jay has the time to swap wheels over. I'm not a fan of spacers though so it would rule that out straight away for me. If I was attempting something under the OEM rim, the link I provided above would be my solution.

     

    TBH, under the OEM rim these would be fairly lost anyway I reckon.


  10. Keethos, OEM wheels wont fit, not quite enough clearance I believe. I'd be doing this otherwise..... Most aftermarket 17" has enough spoke clearance. You could probably do it by machining off some of the caliper, but then it's far more work.

     

    Here's a link to a BBK(ish) kit that will fit that uses the OEM calipers:

    http://www.racingbrake.com/322x25mm-2-from-277x24mm-p/2127-k-01.htm

     

    SpecK, it's not so simple as the fog light bezels. You'd need to route the pipework under the front arches, tere's no direct route... I've yet to see a good (if any?) solution and the Yanks have tried a few ways so far with little/no success. Unless you're willing to cut through the arches.....

     

    EDIT - SpecK:

    http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=28354

    http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=39099


  11. I'll pop up in the loft and get it for you tomorrow if I remember.

    The Crawford blocks are good if you're happier with a shortened rev range.

    I've got a decent basemap for the Crawford bits should anyone require it for tuning.

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