Kodename47

I've had mine for coming up 7 years, but I have had loads of small issues despite low mileage that have slowly eroded away my love for the car (that and I have come to dislike the car community). But I agree with many of your issues. Water in the boot/poor sealing rear lights Radio is poor (new dashcam has killed the reception, LED indicators cause interference easily) AC stopped working (Relay) Wheels corroded (warranty) 2nd rear view mirror delaminated Rust - door quarterlights and bonnet slam panel Door quarterlight blew out - no determined cause Lots of rattles Clutch pedal squeak I've given up on fixing the car at times, if I could find a suitable replacement I probably would have by now. TBH I've often had thoughts about just getting rid and not bothering with a replacement.

It's OK, I get pangs of the same feeling. Is yours a Primo? In the states there is a button in the boot that stops the boot release from working (look at vids online). I don't believe it's on UK cars but maybe the primo. Also, is there a manual key release?

No idea, I believe just the cat-back.

It's also one of the best sounding

Probably not as it's not really an issue. The biggest issue with the alarm is that it drains the battery if left undriven.... the alarm won't go off when the battery is flat.

The alarm is pathetic, it won't wake anyone anyway.

Interested in this as I've been toying with the FK510 as a replacement for the Primacys, let us know how you get on.

Pretty easy to refit yourself if you want to, takes all of 10 mins to remove and refit the intake pipe with the resonator.

Yes, this is quite common. As said, the camera has to be powered when the HU is powered up or it won't sense it and allow it. The common fix it to take the 12v switched feed at the rear of the HU.

Were you on the A34/M40 junction yesterday in the awful traffic? If not, you have a doppelganger...... 😂

I think that it REALLY doesn't suit white.... that rear pic is OK but from the front is very meh. Plus saw the same red car yesterday on it's way to Subota Boy.... small, looks quite tall rather than wide, no road presence. There's a new Z4 around here as well in black. I preferred that, the opposite to what I had decided from pics. Would probably go for the 30i/M40i Z4 over the Toyota for a road car, it's cheaper as well.

P0420 - Reset the ECU and drive again until it comes on.

Only really an issue on track. Still enjoy mine after 4+ years boosted. The charge temps do get hotter than the rest but it is relative, the newer SPS version is apparently better and adds a little extra boost per pulley. The problem is that the cost of a new one means that often people will go to other alternatives, just look at the current discount of the clearance CW or how good value the TD turbo kit is. The Harrop, also being from Aus, is equivalent in price and produces "better" results and does have better heat management. For a road driven car the Sprintex is just fine. 70mm pulley it makes a lovely whine and puts out similar power to the Cosworth - I reckon mine is ~250-260 hub bhp, so right at the limit of what most would consider "safe". If I were to track it, the output would drop a bit over time as the W2A system heats up, but I'm still not sure it would ruin my fun. A WMI kit soon sorts that out.

No, you want the least amount of restriction upstream of a positive displacement blower. As said, the OEM design is to help remove noise and resonance. The sizing is perfectly adequate for 200bhp. https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=49634 https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=56341

It's not, and Cosworth didn't find it a restriction on the SC either.

You'll gain a couple of HP, if anything, Not really sure you'd notice that.

Rears need the tool, fronts don't.

Auto hill-hold was advertised on the original models, but wasn't available or an option and it was a misprint. The car is good enough to overlook these kind of convenience features. As for the mirror, again I don't think this is even an option in the UK. That's why they wouldn't fit it. As for compensation, I think £150 is more that suitable for a feature that is not going to be a deal breaker.

Greddy, Laile Beatrush and Leg Motorsport (https://www.japanparts.com/parts/list.php?dl=2&cm=178&md_sm=1:129) all make a similar ones. Can't find the Autofactory on any of the usual Japanese parts sites

These are known in the US as SpecD and that is what they have been sold as if you want to look at other retailers, pics and videos. No doubt these are now replicas or more likely just sold as white label goods to be re-branded.

It doesn't have Canbus for the lights so you wont get errors if you swap to LEDs but you'll get the "hyperflash" that you get with a blown bulb. You need to either buy a replacement flasher relay, which is easy to replace, or mod the OEM one with resistors, simple to do if you can solder. Or you can buy resistor packs to fit by the lights, but I've always said this is least preferable due to the heat they emit. Not so much an issue on the front as they'd be well ventilated but in the rear you'd have to have them around the boot liner trim.

I had 3 of mine replaced as well just before I hit 5 years

It's actually a MIL, not a EML 😛 Without a code this is useless. Did you check the fuel cap went back on properly as that can throw a code. 95-99 RON no matter what fuel type should never cause a code to be thrown unless it causes a misfire or something similar.

If you will go turbo and have a manual car then it's not worth it. You want longer gears with the extra torque, not shorter. Also, as @Lauren said, if you drive on motorways and dual carriageways you end up sitting at higher revs.

I believe they were fitted on MY15 cars, so late 2014 onward. If yours in a 14 plate, it won't be likely to have it,