scbrz
-
Content Count
43 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
1
Posts posted by scbrz
-
-
4 minutes ago, HariboPenguin said:They aren't as new as they have been on the car for around 2 years but they are in great condition bar some muck around the rear from drainage (not visible from outside). If that's ok I'll get a postage price and PM you.
Sent from my ONEPLUS A6003 using Tapatalk
Ok, as long as they aren't faded/scratched or cracked/split anywhere. Had to check to be sure.
-
On 12/1/2018 at 10:47 PM, GT1986 said:Yeah true scbrz, My set-up is maps 1-3 for V-power with different toys on each map and map 4 is pretty much for any old fuel if vpower isn't available etc, was just curious really if anyone had noticed characteristics similar to what I mentioned when trying their map for any fuel 95 etc, map 1 in your case, the reduction in noise on mine is what got me curious.
I would say 95map is rougher round town, but this is not scientific! The biggest issue I have is the throttle maps are too aggressive in all maps for town driving.
-
I'll take these please if they are unmarked in mint as new condition. Please PM me your PayPal address with a postage price to UK mainland.
-
I'm not sure there is a general answer for your question. I believe which map does what is down to the engine mods and tuner setup not ecutek in general, as on mine map 1 is for 95, map 2 97, map 3 Shell Vpower and map 4 Vpower with the toys enabled.
Angelina reacted to this -
I'm currently in progress of sorting this out as in the same situation but don't have the original wheels as an option for swapping so I've gone for option 2b.
I have read the original sensors codes direct from the ECU and bought cloneable sensors and programmer for less than the prices quoted above. I've programmed them with the OEM codes. They are read ok by the programmer and the matching id is displayed. Not managed to get them detected by the car though, but this is without any pressure. I must admit I thought they would be detected but still report an error due to lack of pressure rather than not be detected. However I have read that they don't transmit when no pressure or even rotating (I don't believe rotation is an issue but this might depend on sensor make). I will post up when I make some further progress.
br0wny reacted to this -
8 hours ago, Varelco said:Changing to stiffer anti roll bars has an infamous effect of making the ride harsh on these cars as you have discovered on both set of springs. You would have been better off leaving the lowering springs on and replacing the ARB back to stock, you would get the aesthetics and comfortable ride back with minimal loss of body roll (lets face it these cars are very planted stock and even better just on a set of lowering springs). Sorry it doesn't help your knock problem, but I also have a very similar knock from the front, its only evident at speeds less than 20mph and small bumps in the road. Anything faster or more aggressive and its silent. I've checked everything for play and tightness and all is good, the only thing I intend to do now is loosen the ARB and top mount nuts, lower the car so the full weight is on the suspension then retorque it back up.
Thanks, thats interesting to hear. i take it you've tried various combinations then? I still have the springs so that could be a future option once I sort the knock out. The eibach roll bars have 2 holes, so would changing to the softer setting be similiar? when I find out the cause I'll post it up. What setup do you currently have?
-
20 hours ago, TommyC said:Wrecked a socket! 😮 How tight were they?!!
Anything else appear loose on the strut/suspension assembly? Could be something like the brake heat shield? (Also had one of those rattling for a while in the past before I tracked it down!).
Admittedly I'm kinda guess as I really thought it was the drop link/s...
Reading your original post I'm now thinking about other things to try to eliminate them from the situation. Try swapping the front wheels and see if the noise moves! (There's a chance the problem is completely un-related to the spring swap but the timing is misleading). As you've checked over the tyre etc did you notice if there was a missing tyre balance weight or something?! 🤔
Also, what wheels are you running on? It's possible that a harsh bump/pothole could have buckled the wheel (especially with harder springs)! 😮
Could be worth getting that wheel on a balancing machine to see if it's either of these things...
Well I think the cause of wreaking the drop links was 2 fold. The lower threads were very rusty, which had affected the size of the hex socket in the end of the thread, and the rusty thread made the nut difficult to get off. Due to the location its hard to clean up the end and threads and get the allen key in securely. I will definitely be trying to protect the new ones somehow. As expected the ball joints were actually fine which was a shame.
I've checked the wheel visually and they are the same ones as before. I had thought about swapping the wheels but I've found that it clonks if I push down on the top of the strut under the bonnet. Thats why i thought it was the droplinks moving. I'm hoping its just the topmounts, but it could also be the lower ball joint or the steering ball joint. I will take a look again at the weekend.
To be fair to the eibachs, the ride now on stock springs is still very stiff (but not as brutal) as there is more travel and the car did handle better and look very good lowered. For a track only car they would be perfect but as a daily road car too much.
-
So its not the drop links. I removed completely (and wrecked the hex socket in the process so need new ones now) and the noise is still there.
TommyC reacted to this -
-
19 hours ago, TommyC said:At 12k the ball joints shouldn't be knackered, but there could be a chance they were damaged when being disconnected...?
Do you have any idea of the condition of the ARB bushes? The noise could be coming from the ARB moving about 🤔 I've experienced this on previous cars of mine when trying find the source of the 'damned knocking noise!'
🙂
I can't see how they could have been damaged really when dismantling. Think the ARB bushes are on 8k. Will try to check these too. Unfortunately the weather is really bad this weekend. I will probably start with new drop links, but if they still rattle in the strut hole I don't know what next.
-
On 8/24/2018 at 4:37 PM, James18 said:If anyone is interested in buying a new set of taillights, just had a great experience with CT Autoparts in Australia and would recommend.
Bought some red edition sequential Valentis last Friday, arrived to my door today. That's nearly 10,000 miles in 5 working days. For a very reasonable price too, headlights were £210, shipping was £50, with the current exchange rate.
They also have in the new TOMS and Buddy Club V2, as well as the Valenti range, and a load of other styling pieces people might fancy.
www.ctautoparts.com.au
Please excuse my dirty car, the rain has not been kind
Did you get stung by parcel force & customs on top of those prices?
-
On 11/6/2018 at 2:32 PM, TommyC said:Arrived this morning, took 20 seconds to fit!
😆😆😆
;-) Where did you get this from?
ok, I found them
https://everythingvinyldecal.com/collections/fr-s-brz-86-faux-button
-
3 hours ago, TommyC said:Or standard ones for about half the price...
Thanks for the reply and links. I'm sure its related to the drop links too, but I couldn't remove the lower nut on them to test on the jack. I've converted the clip to mp4 which should play on phones. you can see at the bottom it looks like the paint has worn away from movement?
Car has only done 12k and was fine before changing the springs. only other thing I can think is the eibach roll bar is on the hole at the end and with stock springs this is causing binding rather than vertical movement?
TommyC reacted to this -
My car was fitted with eibach lowering springs and anti roll bars. The ride on poor local roads was so harsh I changed the springs back to stock springs, but since doing this I'm getting a noise from the front right. It was perfectly fine before the change. At slow speed (crawling traffic) its a definite clonking/knocking almost regular with each turn of the wheels but as the speed gets faster its more like a regular noise like tire noise or a tennis ball boucing around the arch liner!. It does it on pretty flat roads rather than bumpy roads.
I've taken the wheel off and checked the bolts/nuts are the right torque and there is no contact. I've also removed the spring again and checked the strut is not blown. I've also checked the strut brace nuts even though these were not removed. The suspension deals with large bumps and undulations fine. My suspicion is the drop links, as even though the bolts are torqued, the thread seems to be smaller than the strut hole. Is this normal? Video attached. Its driving me nuts and passengers can't hear it (unless its the slow noise)
Any one else had something similar and how did you resolve?
TIA
-
13 hours ago, Lauren said:They all do it.
Thats why it should be added to the list in this thread ;-) However not all do it, I checked a colleagues 86 and it doesn't do it and hes not done anything to fix.
-
Flat battery - locked out - BROKE key
in GT86/BRZ General Chat
Posted · Report reply
I just had exactly the same thing tonight temp 7 deg celcuis. Car had not been used for over a week so luckily I was at home not needing to go anywhere. No key-less unlock using the handle, nothing using the remote buttons. Red warning light was flashing on cluster though. I'd read about this thread recently and been meaning to check it! Tried both hidden keys in the remote, it would turn to "2 o'clock" to the right easily but only "11 o'clock" to the left. The physical key is useless as you can't hold/turn it easily even to use occasionally. Tried pentrating oil in the lock which promptly ran out under the handle down the door. After 15 minutes of swearing and moving right and left, it finally opened by turning to "10 o'clock" with a clunk. Opened the bonnet and connected up the battery charger and the alarm started very quietly. I would say its not the lock barrel but something in the linkage or door catch its self jamming or seizing. This post really needs to be a sticky as it will happen to all keyless owners at some point. So stupid design that the passenger door or boot does not have a key lock as an alternative.