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Kaltorak

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Posts posted by Kaltorak

  4. Posted · Report reply

    6 minutes ago, knightryder said:

    Call a dealer, ask if it's had the ECU updated as it would be on their system. It's possible that it hasn't, although I wouldn't guarantee that is a fix as that was usually step 1 before swapping and replacing the sensors and solenoids. TBH if it's taken this long to appear I would expect there might be an issue with the AVCS rather than the ECU.

    True enough about the length of time, its only on 14,000 miles though. I guess it depends what the main factor for it is.

    Also, correct me if I am wrong, but this is more about the sensor being out rather than the cam timing being off. It isnt a danger to the engine unless the cam timing also shits the bed, basically if I drive it, I'm running without the safety net.

  5. Posted · Report reply

    Hi All.

    Just had the dreaded check engine light appear. Plugged my ODB reader in and got the following codes

    -P0390 - Powertrain - Camshaft Position Sensor "B" Circuit (Historic Fault)

    -P0391 - Powertrain - Camshaft Positon Sensor "B" circuit Range/Performance (Bank 2)

     

    The car is a 62 plate, so one of the originals that were impacted by the lumpy idle that was fixed with an ECU reflash. It is also covered under the current recall for Valve Springs.

    Now, I don't know if the car was ever reflashed as I am not the first owner (its been in my care for ~6 months), but its outside the 5 years that would usually cover this as warranty work. Looking at the ft86 forums, it seems that the 2 codes I have could be thrown as part of the re-flash problems, the idle on the car would bounce a bit, but I always put that down to the AC cycling.

    So, oh gurus of the internet, what do you think my best course of action would be?

    Drive to the nearest Toyota garage and ask them to look to see if the reflash was performed, get the springs done later.

    Book in to the nearest Toyota garage. Get the springs done and ask them to look at the reflash.

    Dont drive it anywhere, tow it to Toyota, get the CEL looked at, but mention the potential for the reflash to fix it.

    Other (please specify)

     

    Note, I dont need the car as a daily driver, however I do have a trackday coming up on dec 10th... so I need it before then!

    Also, if anyone has had these codes in the past, could you let me know how you handled it when it happened?

    Cheers.

  6. Posted · Report reply

    Hi all. 

    I recently swapped over to new tires. Since the change I noticed the car was pulling to the left, I attributed this to a change to tracking. However this weekend I took a trip down to my folks. I noticed on parts of the motorway that were cambered to the right the car would pull with it. 

    It's this something you have experienced when driving the twins on non primacy tires, and it's this something I need to worry about? 

  10. Posted · Report reply

    Right, just for confirmation, if you go for the dba disks and yellow stuff pads you shouldn't install the anti squeal shims supplied with the pads. 

    The disks are very slightly wider than standard, and the shims make the pad assembly slightly wider than normal. 

    These 2 slight increases mean the pads will be in contact with the disks causing heat buildup and excessive wear if left like that. 

     

    Big thanks to part box and lucas especially for getting to the bottom of my problems. 

  11. Posted · Report reply

    34 minutes ago, Cerastes said:

    Hmm not sure if this counts. However I'll say it anyway, work vans; in particular the Peugeot Bipper, as a work van they are so small, you can't get anything in the back. They are tiny, they look like toy cars. From what I remember they have no oomph either. But the worst thing of all, is the latches for the rear doors stick out quite a lot, every time you reach into the back you catch your head on the latch. It really hurts, I have had numerous colleagues banging their heads on the latch.

    Weird it's another Peugeot. Then again, it's probably not. 

     

    I'm not a fan of any of the small work vans, I cant remember what exactly we had, but it was gutless and as you had, multiple latch injuries. The big work van we had was a Sprinter, thing was awesome (and ate tires), although its pillars sometimes obstructed cars on small roundabouts, easy to work around though.

  12. Posted · Report reply

    Hi All.

    I did a search and this doesn't seem to be something that's been brought up. What's the worst car you have ever driven and why?

     

    I'll start with the tail of woe that is the Peugeot 2008.

    Had to get a rental car for work, not a problem. However the car provided was the aforementioned Peugeot 2008, this years model.

    It began when I went to shift into first and had the joy of experiencing changing gear with what is without a doubt the least precise gearbox ever. It was like changing through marshmallow, gates were unheard of. Other than moving the gearstick left and forwards, I couldn't tell you if I got 1st or 3rd, or a mix of the 2. Once the mystery gear was selected, it was off to find the bite point. I needn't have bothered it wasn't a point, it was just as vague as the gearshift, so it being a rental, I did what any self respecting person would do, pushed the accelerator and brought the pedal up with nary a care for the poor clutch, and with that we were..... kinda moving, off isn't the right word.

    I was pretty much straight onto the motorway, the slip road was the first point to really put my foot down, so I did, but we rapidly slowed down, I mean its a good thing I wasn't followed. The front  wheel arch sticks so far into the pedal section that they have jammed the peddles rather close, and I hit both the brake and accelerator. (Pic attached) Lesson learned, be careful when accelerating. Once I got over the whiplash of my own stupidity and pressed the accelerator, I waited.... Then the turbo spun up and, OK, it went. nothing mind blowing, but we reached motorway speed before the end of the slip.

    There was then a long boring 2 hours of motorway, where I learned the car does NOT have a 6th gear to save my ears from the engine noise (it's not as nice as ours).

    Finally we reach the end of the motorway, nearly at our destination, I go to downshift to 4th as their is a bend coming up and what do you know, we rapidly decelerate on the off ramp after I hit the clutch and brake pedal together. When I finally got to my destination, I checked how much clearance I had when I depressed the brake pedal. Give or take 1 inch either side, which wouldn't be a problem other than the encroaching wheel arch on the accelerator and the encroaching footrest on the clutch meaning the foot is shifted in towards the brake when you need to fully depress either of them.

    But, for £44 for the day, it could have been worse?

    And that is the worst car I have ever driven, maybe I have been lucky, who knows :)

    Peugeot 2008 footwell.jpg

  15. Posted · Report reply

    2 hours ago, Lucas@PartBox said:

    @Kaltorak If you don't want to go crazy with OE replacement discs, just go with these National Auto Brake Discs that I'm using combined with PFC Z-Rated Brake Pads.. I dare to say that PFC Z-Rated pads are the best fast road pads you can buy.. National Auto discs are cheap & cheerful replacement for stock discs. They are grooved so they improve the initial bite of the pads so it does improve braking a little bit too :) Noticeable change and for that price, you can't go wrong. We offer a forum discount as well and free UPS shipping.

    I mean, you also do the DBA T3s ;)

    How would I go about getting the forum discount, a search on the forum doesn't reveal anything?

  16. Posted · Report reply

    OK, so the good news is that the rears are fine, loads of pad left and barely any lip on the disk. The shudder has also gone, after taking a look at the brakes I think it could have been caused by unevenness of the tire due to rubber pickup (they still have a fair bit of pickup on them after driving ~70miles).

    The fronts on the other hand have very little left and a fair old lip. So, with all the advice on here (and way too much reading of reviews during my working day) I think the best route for me for long term is as follows (please let me know if its bloody stupid to do so as front and rears will be on different disks and pads)

    DBA Front Disks for the longevity and stopping power with as of yet undecided pads.

    The only problem I can see is that the best price listed specs the Width as 25mm rather than 24mm.

    http://clarkmotorsport.co.uk/parts/4000-T3-Series-Brake-Disc---SLOTTED-(pair)/Front/DBA4650ST3P

    Those are the same DBA4650S as https://www.dbabrakes.eu/discbrakes/21602/DBA4650S

    But with different specs! Bah.

    Could someone with some knowledge confirm im looking at the right ones?

  17. Posted · Report reply

    Hi All.

    I have been looking around on the forums trying to get my head around brake pad and disk recommendations. I have the standard Calipers and don't have the funding to change these out at the moment. I just finished up my first trackday and the front disks are toast, not checked the rears, but the fronts are exhibiting a mild shudder on the brake peddle which can also be felt through the wheel.

    I am looking at the EBC Yellow Stuff or DS2500 pads. But I have absolutely no idea on disks, will they make much difference, are there any that work better with one or the other of the pads I'm favouring?

    I dont drive the car daily, its mainly for long motorway travel to and from friends and family or (now) trackdays. 

    I found plenty of advice on pads, but not much on disks, cheers for any advice.

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