Kaltorak
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Posts posted by Kaltorak
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Glazing the disks, no worries, glazing the pads, problem!
What pads were you running with the BBK?
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On 9/16/2021 at 8:19 PM, Tom21 said:Does anyone know if k-sport use the same calipers and and fittings between the 330mm kit and the 355mm kit?
Like would I be able to buy either disks and get them to work with maybe just a different caliper bracket?
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They do indeed, the 330 leave a small amount of the pad compound "free" and not in contact with the disk. It gives a lip to the pad, but other than that no issues with it.
I track the car with the 330 K-Sports and stock rears. Cant fault them at all!
The kit fits C5555 pads which gives great availability and range of choice.
Tom21 reacted to this -
I have 0 idea, sorry.
This was proper junk I think 94ron.
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I have a "junk" tune for when I can't get good fuel. I've used it once in France on a long journey.
Going out with the good fuel I got about 40mpg and the car felt great. On the way back I got 32 and it just didn't respond as well. Same roads, same speeds. But hey, it was safer right?
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18 hours ago, Daninplymouth said:Yeah I know that not the cost can get 97 less than a mile from my house whereas the 99 is a 15mile round trip.
I just weren’t sure if it would balance out on the poorer fuel with dropping the compression. Not forged yet, I was just thinking of the future and wasn’t sure what sort of impact it’d have
Ahh gotcha. 1st speak to whoever is tuning it about your fuel situation. Maybe they could do 2 maps, one that's more Conservative with ignition timing and maybe more Liberal with the waste gate, then you can pick the tune on the fuel you're running.
The car will pull timing naturally if it detects knock /detonation, but it's better to prevent it before than after.
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If you're boosting it, you'll still need want the higher ron fuel. It helps with detonation.
Your removing detonation risk by reducing compression ratio, but then you're increasing risk by boosting it.
If you can afford to boost, you can afford 99
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Do they do torque for ios?
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I run 0w-20 and do about 8-10 trackdays a year, considering swapping up to 5w-30. Biggest thing to do is make sure oil temps are managed either via a cooler or tracking the temps via ODB. As others have said, above 120C I'd consider backing off and letting things cool down.
I usually change the oil every 4-5 trackdays, IE half year.
For what it's worth these cars heat their oil incredibly quickly if you're pushing on track. IE on longer tracks good luck getting 2 hot laps in a row.
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2 hours ago, saxon said:I'm getting the teeltale screech from one of my (I think rear) wheels and so presume the pads and possibly discs need changing.
Local Toyota garage quoted around £220 for either front or rear pads fitted
Around £360 If it needs pads and discs per axle fitted
I am in the 5 year service club as it's a 2014 GT86 so I think I get 20% discount on these prices.
Sounds a lot to me but then they might be some fancy Brembo things even though they're just the stock fitment. Is it likely to be worth me trying a local garage to have the work done? Just wondering if I will save much?
Bit brassic at present due furlough etc so grateful for any tips! I do have a local mechanic I use on another car who charges £45/hr labour but it's a question of whether it will end up saving much. I followed a link on the forum where somebody linked to some Brembo discs for £110 a set of two discs. Pads are a further £40 ish per axle as far as I can tell. So that's around £150 per axle, but the question is how many hours labour to replace discs and pads?
Saxon
Labour per axle if you havent done it before (and have the tools) Probably an hour or so. If its something you've done on other cars, 30-40mins or so per axle.
Tools required:
Caliper Retractor/big ass screwdriver
17&15mm socket (I think, but a socket set will cover you).
Red/Silicon Grease for the slide pins,
Copper Grease
Torque Wrench
Jack
You can find the torque settings in the thread here.
https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19673
If youre doing the rear disks, you'll need to wind the handbrake off the disks by removing the rubber gromet from the disk, have that located at the bottom. The bit at the bottom of the pic with the spokes pointing out (visible through the newly revealed hole in the disk). Turn it one way with a screwdriver through the hole, it pushes/pulls the shoes from the disks, that will allow easy removal. Dont forget to wind it back in on the new set until tight and release it 2-3 notches otherwise the handbrake will do sweet FA.
MR2 reacted to this -
On 5/28/2021 at 6:27 PM, Cfb86 said:Haven’t done it yet but I was thinking about Going catless manifold
Removal of an emissions device is grounds for instant mot failure even if you pass the emissions test.
Main dealers tend to be quite strict on that one while an independent may not know what the stock headers should look like.
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1 hour ago, Leeky said:I’ve always used the Cosworth Streetmaster pads. They have plenty of bite from cold and are hard to overheat on track.
Ahh, you mean yellowstuff. Yea, they're fine and track.
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I'll support those recommending some hard braking episodes. 5-10 stops from 60-20mph, if your eyes arent trying to escape their sockets, you didnt brake hard enough.
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In an over braked car, you can push the pedal harder and you will get more bite. Sure it'll feel like a heavy pedal, but it will still stop harder, until you lock up the tires.
In an under braked car, once you reach the critical temp, pushing the pedal harder won't do anything. It's fucking horrible to experience.
Come to think of it that's just how I've always thought of it, not sure if I'm right, but it makes sense to me 😂... It's like knowing how to pronounce a word you've only ever read....
I've always know it that way as one has not enough capacity and that other has too much.
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I don't entirely agree with a few of your points.
As you said, tyres are the limiting factor, totally. But your idea on underbraking is the wrong way around. Underbraked cars cannot dissipate the amount of heat required to repeatedly slow the car. As you said steel disks mu value drops as it heats so they slowly lose braking capacity.
Ceramics have nowhere near the drop off so it's much harder to have an Underbraked ceramic setup. Especially when you consider the amount of heat dissipated increases as the differential between the air and the disk increases.
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Ah yes, the budget option that requires after market wheels 😅. Unfortunately that's the standard for any worthwhile brake upgrade for the 86.
If they were "stock" blank disks that you had issues with in not all that surprised. I only did one trackday with them and had horrible brake judder, got rid of them rapidly.
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3 hours ago, Notaricer said:
These are just the 326mm rotors from the STi. You can go for the 6 pot kit they offer, but it’s a bit too much for what I need. They actually do a conversion kit from the 4 to the 6 so if you’re not happy or are looking for a change it’s really easy to swap out. The disc size is the same for both though if I remember correctly.
I will be using this for fast road and light track use. The main problem I’ve been having is heat dissipation. My stock discs have cracked (only on the front). And when I went for uprated discs, they warped. This seems like a sure fire way of going about it, or at least I hope so. I don’t need overkill. I would definitely go for the AP 6 pot kit if 1. I had the money and 2. If it made sense.
Like I said to church, it’s all much of a muchness. I’ll be honest though, I haven’t done much research on the ksports. I feel like because they are a BBK which is more affordable, that they arguably aren’t made to the same quality/standard as the other kits. That’s why I went down the route of picking up a genuine brembo kit from a production car, even though it wasn’t designed for my car - I can make all the necessary tweaks. It has been extensively reviewed and many people seem happy with it. It’s a budget option that I’ve not heard anyone from the UK have explored, but you’re not cheaping out on parts if that makes sense.Are those going to fit under stock wheels, or are you not running stock?
I don't really want to get involved, so I'll just say, 290mm vs 326mm disks gives about 30% more surface area to dissipate heat. That's not insignificant and will certainly help out on track.
Hope to see you on a trackday at some point!
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Wondering what size disks you're going to be running with this setup?
For a brembo conversion that seems pretty good but I'm not sure it's worth the bother against the ksport 8pot.
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If you just after a nice backroad/ AtoB car. Take whichever you prefer, testdrive both if you can
Reliability wise, the auto will be fine, I dont think there have been any reports of issues with the auto box over the manual.
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On 4/27/2021 at 8:54 PM, willclarke said:I have this and its very good. Pricey but even with decat manifold, and hfc front pipe it's still quite respectable volume-wise and no drone
. If you are stock manifold and front pipe you might find it slightly too quiet though
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What do you clock in at on trackdays?
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That's one hell of a braking zone. I can't think of another track that would be that brutal on brakes.Ignore that, missed the supercharger part in the description.The pedal going to the floor suggests that the brake fluid boiled, fluid doesn't compress, but the "air" after it boils does resulting in a very long pedal.
Did it remain long /spongy afterwards, if so that's probably the cause.
If not, you probably overheated the pad material which would have resulted in it having a huge drop in friction so pushing the pedal would result in far less braking force.
New pads will have a large impact, the stock ones just aren't up to heavy track abuse, particularly in a super/turbo car. I think of those that track the car and have gone the FI route they all have a BBK. The dot 5.1 would help prevent the fluid boiling, depends which of the symptoms you had.
Unrelated, but if you don't have an oil cooler you may want to keep an eye on oil pressure /temp when on track if you don't already.
willclarke reacted to this -
Ouch, that looks like an expensive drift lesson! Tried it once on the road myself and ended up facing a rather surprised couple on a roundabout. Lesson learned, I am no Ken Block.
I havent watched P1 yet, but I am in no way surprised to learn Mazepin's been causing more red flags. I'll keep you in mind when I watch it
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15 hours ago, Jay Bamrah said:My favourite angle of the BRZ
Do we need to worry that it has the towing eye fitted?
Jay Bamrah reacted to this -
I guess knowing that all the supporting bits that were initially part of the kit are included. One of the main ones that comes to mind is the oil cooler.
Either way if you get a turbo kit you're going to need it mapped afterwards but hopefully you already know that. 😁
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2 hours ago, BRZ-123 said:Together shot
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GR takes more styling from a 911
BRZ takes more from an RX8
Think I prefer the BRZ this time around! Will be interesting to know if there's more changes to the suspension like last time.
BRZ-123 reacted to this
K-sport brake info
in GT86/BRZ General Chat
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Huh, that's the exact setup I ran before I put on the bbk.
The pads last about 3x as long in the bbk, and the disks look like they will crack long before wear becomes a problem.