Conscript
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Posts posted by Conscript
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1 hour ago, matrixprotein said:Could be your drop links. I had this issue
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I've just had to drive around the M25 to Brentford and I was noticing it more. Its become a bit of a rattle at lower speeds even on level ground. I get a feeling that whatever it is, the concrete washboard section of the M25 might have made it worse... so you might be right about the drop links.
When I got to my destination I got out and gave the wheels a rock but they feel fine. As soon as I get home I'm going to get under and have a look.
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Over the past couple of weeks, my car has developed a rather annoying noise from the front end. I've started this thread in the hope that I get some help tracking down what the culprit might be. The car is a 2013 model, with about 82K miles. The suspension is unmodified apart from wheel spacers fitted about 2 years ago.
Symptoms
When driving at low speeds, there is a creaking or popping noise emanating from the front of the car.
- The noise only occurs at very low speeds, pretty much walking pace - think when making a turn in the road, manoeuvring into a parking space, or sometimes slowing to a stop.
- The noise does NOT appear to be related to braking or steering inputs. It mainly seems to occur over uneven ground, ie when one wheel is moving up or down relative to the other, so when the car needs to flex somewhat.
- The noise does no occur (or at least, cannot be heard) at any sort of speed. The car is otherwise sound - no clunks, rattles, grinding or feedback from the suspension apart from this noise when manoeuvring.
- There are no other adverse symptoms. The car handles, stops and pulls away fine, I cannot feel any undue play in the steering or suspension.Videos
I've managed to take two videos highlighting the sound. The first video is taken driving along a road local to me which has speed cushions. On the way up the road, I purposefully drive over them with just one wheel and you can hear the sound. The noise quality isn't great, it's from my phone mounted on the windscreen but listen as I slow to mount each one and you should hear what I mean. I then turn around and come back down the road, but this time I go over the speed bumps evenly. You can still hear it a little, but it's much reduced. Windows are halfway down in this one and it's a windy day, so apologies for extra noise.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=riA8ZyBeEaoThe second video is taken outside my house. In this one, I am literally just rolling back on the clutch, and then letting the car roll forward. You can hear the noise quite clearly. The road is generally flat, but there is a fairly large depression close to the kerb. The noise appears to be happening as the nearside wheel rolls over this and the offside wheel stays level. I'm making no steering input in this video, and only lightly touching the brakes to stop after the car has rolled forward.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UxPCrTWGfnwThings I don't think it is
The following are things I've discounted for the moment, however I wont rule them out entirely if someone has better experience:
- Strut braces (the stay bars running between strut towers and the firewall): I found a good thread on FT86 club where someone outlined a TSB for these making creaking noise due to debris between the mounting surfaces. However even after being removed, cleaned and reinstalled the noise is still there. Just to be sure, I also removed them entirely and drove up the same road in the video. The noise was still there; it was slightly different, maybe a little quieter, however I think that's because although they may not be the culprit, their absence might change the way the front end is flexing, thus affecting the noise. So for now, I don't think it's them.
- Brakes: I've suffered creaking noises from brakes before, but this is happening with no brake application whatsoever.
- Strut tops: This seems to be the most popular theory for creaking and popping noises from suspension. However, my noise appears even when there is not steering input. When stationary, if I turn the wheel, there is no noise whatsoever, so I think these are okay.
- Steering rack: Don't think it's this, for the same reasons as above.
- Springs/dampers: I cant get any noise out of the car stationary by bouncing it up and down, and there's no noises when driving normally, so I think these are fine.
- Tie rods/end links/ball joints: Again, no noise from these otherwise, and there's no undue play on a first inspection.Prime Suspects
- At the moment, my main suspect for this is the anti roll bar bushings (in the Dining Room, with the lead pipe). As evidenced above, the noise is most prevalent when the wheels are moving relative to each other, and my understanding is that this would be causing the ARB to flex/twist, whereas on level ground it shouldn't be twisting.
- ARB drop links. I'm considering these as well, but only really because they link to the ARB. My experience on cars of the past is that drop links are a weak point, so usually this would be my go-to for the problem. However, again in my experience, worn drop links tends to cause all sorts of clunking noises in general driving over any sort of rough ground, whereas this issue only occurs slowly.
My next step is going to be getting the car in the air at the weekend and inspecting the ARB bushing, and giving them a spray with silicone lubricant to see if that helps. In the meantime, I'd welcome any opinions on what else might be causing the noise that I could investigate. Has anyone experienced similar issues? -
Pretty sure you can just use brake fluid, DOT4 should be fine... It might even state it on the filler cap.
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This has now been paid for and collected, so the thread can be closed.
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This is now provisionally sold, pending payment and collection.
I will update when the transaction is complete and the thread can be closed.
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Hi all,
I'm selling this system on, as despite being one of the quieter systems available, I was running it with a catless manifold and sports cat, and it was still a little loud for my taste.
I bought this off another member on the Owners Club in March, and he provided me with his original proof of purchase from new in April 2019. I've had the system fitted for only 4 months and have covered about a 1000 miles, at the most.
The system is in excellent condition with no leaks, cracks or damage. There are a couple of tiny scratches on the tips...however, as the tips are burnt titanium, I'm told you can remedy this by heating them and the blueing should return. I've given the tips and most of the backbox a going over with Autosol, although a thorough clean wouldn't go amiss.
Location: Item is located in Rochester, Kent. Due to the size and the fact I don't have a box, I can't post it, so collection only I'm afraid. However, I am often visiting family in east Anglia (Thetford, Stowmarket areas), so if you live that way, I'd be happy to bring to a prearranged place on the way. I'd also be happy to drive a little (say 30 mins) to meet if it would make collection easier.
The midpipe is supplied in 2 sections with a clamp, so along with thr backbox, it can be easily transported in the boot of a GT86.
Price: £600 ono. Pictures attached.
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I can't help you with what size spacers you need, but I have 15mm front and 20mm on the rear (purely for looks, not functionality, bite me) and there is practically no effect on handling. The steering is maybe slightly heavier, but I'm not sure if I can actually feel that, or if it's just a placebo because I know that it should be heavier.
One unintended advantage of spacers - slightly widened track makes negotiating speed cushions a bit easier
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Just tried this and I'm not sure it's made a huge difference tbh. My gap was nowhere near as bad as some other examples I've seen though, so maybe it's just diminishing returns.
On the plus side, I didn't have to remove the bumper...just undoing the side indicator and taking a clip out from there I was able to pull the bumper forward enough to fit this clip. Very fiddly (the clips are tiny), but managed it. Im not going to do the drivers side...it wasn't as bad, and now they look roughly even. It just looks like "bad panel gaps", rather than "bumper falling off". Stupidly, I forgot to take a 'before' picture, too.
Joolz reacted to this -
On 6/13/2019 at 9:16 AM, Conscript said:Thread bump!
My bumper is sagging a little. Thought I'd phone the Subaru dealer, see how much those clips were in the service bulletin...looks like something I could fix myself in about 20 minutes.
£15.82 each and no stock in the UK. Three week wait from Japan.
Probably easier and cheaper to get hold of some scrap metal and make something yourself. As far as I can see, it's just a metal shim to reinforce the plastic and stop it from rounding.
EDIT: In fact, thinking about it, there's can of Carslberg that's been sitting in my fridge since it was brought to my house for a barbecue about 4 years ago. Can't bear to drink it, but now I won't feel bad pouring it down the sink so I can recycle the can and make something myself
Almost a year on from this post and I never got around to fixing it myself. But last month I was looking into the problem again and found that they sell these little clips on Japan Parts, and they aren't charging 15 quid each. Instead, I was able to get 2 of them for 17 quid, delivered. Overnight parts from Japan, yo!
Although not overnight. I ordered on the 19th May and they turned up this morning. That's a little job to attend to in my time off this week
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Oh no...
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It sounds a little metallic. Do you have an aftermarket manifold? It sounds almost like it could be the manifold making contact with the metal undertray when the engine is twisting slightly under load. I had something similar, a metallic rattle, after fitting an Ace header - it would rattle on the undertray, but only when accelerating through certain RPM ranges. I fixed it by taking off the under tray and applying some "percussive maintenance" (ie, i found the raised rib portion of the undertray that was making contact with the manifold and flattened it with a lump hammer.
If that's the problem, fairly easy to diagnose - just take off the undertray (only a few bolts holding it on) and go for a drive.
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34 minutes ago, Lauren said:Seems like a silly question, but have you tried to give it some welly? Also worth trying in reverse too. Easier on a manual car to be more brutal, but I would try giving it some throttle first. Do let us know how you get on. My handbrake tends to stick a little if I haven't used my car for a few days, but it's not really any effort to get it to release. But I hear it unstick as I pull off my drive.
I would second this. Try and shift it backwards and forwards and see if it cracks off. I imagine it might take a little more exuberance with an automatic as the torque converter is allowing some slip.
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1 hour ago, 86iain said:Is it the key sensor for the keyless entry?
I think it's this. There is an identical box mounted behind the trim which holds the Start button.
OP - are you still able to open the boot with the key in your pocket while the car is locked?
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10 hours ago, MangoNo5 said:Hello mate,
Had an absolutely perfect experience there, they had already dealt with other cars but mine was the first with heavy mods. They took their time, we went for a drive before and after the process and all work was well documented (video and photos). I have had no issues what so ever.
Happy to recommend Beadles Medway.
Great stuff. Puts my mind at ease a bit. I'll ring them later to book it in. Thanks very much
MangoNo5 reacted to this -
On 5/23/2019 at 5:46 PM, MangoNo5 said:Beadles Toyota Medway want me to come in for an hour assessment before starting work, made them aware of mod work carried out by Fensport and Abbey. They said they will contact them and made no mention of additional charges, but they have offered to fit my new clutch FoC, I will supply part.
Hi Mango...did you end up getting your recall work done at Beadles Medway? I've just had my recall letter through, and Medway is my closest branch, just wondering if you had any issues? I'm afraid I don't have a lot of faith in main dealers at the best of times, I'd be more comfortable knowing if Medway had some experience with this recall though.
My car is also serviced and modified by Abbey (manifold/remap). Apologies for the thread bump.
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If it's aftermarket manifold, I'd say checking the clearance between it and the undertray should be your first port of call, definitely.
I have the ACE CS400, and when fitting, the undertray bolts needed some washers added to add some clearance, but even so, it would vibrate against it under load. The problem was solved with "percussive modification" of the undertray (ie, I flattened the part of it which was rubbing using a lump hammer).
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1 hour ago, Graham86 said:Nothing to do with the engine, it's injector or injector control. The noise you here will be one cylinder dieseling if the injector isn't firing, or not being told to fire, or the injector itself is making the noise, if it's not happy. The reason it's only at higher revs is you have 2 sets on injectors, high and low pressure, it's probably the high pressure one that's giving an issue.
I won't claim to be an expert on mechanical, but I think this guy might be correct. Generally a rattling noise is terminal, because it's something like a big end bearing failure, but surely this would manifest itself at all times when the engine is on - not just when the car is under acceleration.
I would echo some of the suggestions above. Forget Toyota - they aren't going to honour the warranty for an engine failure as you've had it remapped, and to be honest, that's fair enough, so anything they do they will make you pay through the nose. Get in touch with someone reputable (as above Abbey Motorpsort or Fensport are probably your closest) and see what they say. Hopefully Gaham86 is right and it will be something like injector failure - it might still not be cheap, but hopefully it wont be terminal.
Best of luck mate.
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Thread bump!
My bumper is sagging a little. Thought I'd phone the Subaru dealer, see how much those clips were in the service bulletin...looks like something I could fix myself in about 20 minutes.
£15.82 each and no stock in the UK. Three week wait from Japan.
Probably easier and cheaper to get hold of some scrap metal and make something yourself. As far as I can see, it's just a metal shim to reinforce the plastic and stop it from rounding.
EDIT: In fact, thinking about it, there's can of Carslberg that's been sitting in my fridge since it was brought to my house for a barbecue about 4 years ago. Can't bear to drink it, but now I won't feel bad pouring it down the sink so I can recycle the can and make something myself
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Managed to find an exploded diagram of the rear sub frame with the part numbers for the bushings...41651 and 41651A. Don't look to hard to replace so I'll see if I can get them from the local dealer before getting the Whiteline inserts.
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Indeed.
The good thing about this mod is it's easily reversible. I intend to give it a try but remove them if it makes the car too noisy.
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23 minutes ago, Dave86 said:I've got them on mine and it has transformed the gear change to how it should be from factory. No slop, just smooth precise snappy gear changes. It's also made the car easier to drive in those first few minutes between first and second.
It does however increase significantly the amount of whine you hear in the cabin, but I quite like it. Pair this with the gearbox detente springs and you cannot go wrong.
This is where I get concerned. Most reviews have said there's only a small increase in noise, and generally at low speeds - but not even enough to be audible over a louder exhaust, or even the radio. My car isn't driven daily anymore, but I'd still like to keep increased in NVH to a minimum, but it can of course be a subjective measure.
Did you install the inserts to the front and the rear bushing inserts? I read that you can just install the rear inserts(which are easier to access), which takes out a lot of the slack without increasing noise too much. This is probably what I'd do.
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1 hour ago, james_ly said:Anyone have any feedback on these? The slop/throttle lag is the only thing I don't like about the car, if it can be fixed easily and cheaply then happy days.
I've not seen much from UK forums, apart from people mentioning they've installed them. There's more experiences on the US forums if you have a cast around, for instance: https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=64364
I'm not too badly affected by it, but seeing that vid of the movement and seeing how cheap the inserts are, it's the kind of minor modification I'd like to make to see if it helps how the car feels.
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(Cross-posting from Owners Club forum)
I wanted to try a relatively common modification for this car which is to install the Whiteline KDT925 differential bushing inserts (rear inserts only). I can occasionally feel a little bit of slop when modulating the throttle - nothing major, but apparently the bushing inserts help make the car feel a bit more "taught", and also apparently help alleviate the slight clunk you get when shifting into gear at a stop*. Usually, I wouldn't bother, but they are relatively cheap and it's the kind of install that one can do on the driveway. That, and I fancy a bit of tinkering
However, at the last service at Abbey back in January, Scott mentioned to me that the differential bushings were looking a little worn. Probably not unexpected at 75K miles, and not enough to cause concern, but he said keep an ear out for any clonking noises, etc, which might mean they need replacing. If I'm going to try the Whiteline inserts, I figured it would probably be best to replace the OEM bushing at the same time. But of course, I'm not having much luck looking for OEM parts, because most searches for GT86 bushings give results for aftermarket replacements.
Anyone know (A) somewhere I can look up the part numbers for the OEM bushings and (B) is it possible to replace the actual bushings yourself?
Installing the Whiteline bushing inserts looks easy enough. I just don't know about the bushings. If it's not possible then I'll just have to wait until I can get it to Abbey, but I'd like to have a try myself if it doesn't require any special tooling.
*For anyone who isn't aware of the issue I'm talking about, there's a good demonstration here. This video is made by Whiteline to demonstrate the effectiveness of their subframe bushings. But if you keep an eye on the differential bushings (on the left of the video, in the middle of the subframe), you can see how much they flex on acceleration/deceleration). The differential inserts can reduce this. I should also add, that I would only be looking to do the rear diff inserts - the kit includes front diff inserts, but they are much harder to install, and you can apparently get almost the same improvement without them, with slightly less NVH. -
Never had an issue driving the car daily, but I started to experience problems with my passenger wing mirror when I stopped using the car to commute and only used it infrequently. I once left it about a week and on start up, the mirror refused to unfold (I have the auto folding module so they unfold on ignition). I shut off the the car and press the ignition again and it unfolded fine.
I squirted some WD40 into the mechanism which seemed to sort it for a bit, but the issue did come back. Next time I washed the car I gave the whole housing where it meets the support arm a good blast with the pressure washer. Again, this seemed to fix it, but it has happened once or twice since. I reckon it's just starting to stick now that it's being used less. A bit annoying, but now when I get in the car, I tend to just press the ignition only (which causes the mirrors to unfold) and check they open correctly, then I start the engine. If they don't unfold, they usually do so on the second attempt.
Low Speed Suspension Creak/Popping Noise
in Mechanical
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Just spent this morning replacing the drop links (just went OEM as they were fairly cheap even from Toyota). It was definitely part of the issue...you can see in the video below how worn they were. The one shown is the drivers side, but the passenger side wasn't much better (and ended up being a complete pig to remove).
https://youtu.be/lv8QNELMP_8
The noise is now much quieter, and it's stopped rattling over rough surfaces. However, the low speed creaking is still there...buts its definitely not as bad. So I think the ARB bushes might need replacing too, like you said. Is that fairly easy to do, if you did it yourself? I have a good array of tools, but not a lift so I have to work with the car on jackstands.
And have the uprated bushes casued any more noise/vibration?