Conscript
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Posts posted by Conscript
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You could probably pick up a big box of assorted trim and panel clips cheaply from Amazon, Ebay, etc. I have a load in the garage somewhere. They might not be the exact size or shape as the official ones, but as long as they hold securely, it doesn't really matter...not like anyone can see them.
Joolz reacted to this -
- 93K miles
- Full Service History.
- MOT until January 2023.
- £10,500
A fully specified example in overall excellent condition with only minor wear and tear. Includes full leather interior with heated seats and Toyota Tough&Go navigation.
I am the second owner, having purchased the car used-approved with only 300 miles on the clock, and have cherished it throughout my ownership. The car has never been tracked, has been exceptionally well maintained, and comes with a history folder including invoices for all servicing. The car has been utterly reliable during the time I have owned it, and has required no unexpected maintenance - only consumables and servicing:
- Last service and MOT conducted in January 2022.
- Fresh tyres fitted ~6 months ago (Goodyear Eagle F1AS5, at least 7mm remaining).
- 17" OEM wheels refurbished in silver.
- Valve spring recall conducted in December 2020 by Beadles Toyota (Gillingham) with no issues. Clutch and spark plugs were pre-emptively replaced at the same time.
EXTRAS:
- MTEC clutch pedal/gearbox springs fitted for enhanced shift feel.
- Toyota TRD engine and transmission mounts.
- Beatsonic V2 shark fin aerial.
- Auto-folding mirror module.
- Valenti LED side indicators.
- Focal IS165TOY speaker upgrade.
STANDARD FEATURES:
- Full leather interior
- Heated front seats
- Toyota Touch&Go head unit with navigation
- Bluetooth/AUX/USB connectivity
- Keyless entry and go.
- Climate control
- Cruise control
- Auto folding wing mirrors
Please message me for further details or to arrange a viewing.
I am open to sensible offers after viewings.
I am not interested in a part-exchange.
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59 minutes ago, MartinT said:The difference in feel between 95 and 98 RON in my car is obvious and I won't use 95 unless I'm desperate. I may be 'only commuting' but I bought the BRZ to enjoy the commute more
Sent from my Oppo X3 using Tapatalk
Fair enough. When I said "only commuting" I had in mind the sort of commute I used to do which was 80 percent sitting on the motorway in flowing traffic...I occasionally used 95RON and never felt much difference.
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As long as you don't have any modifications, then just put 95RON in. The car may lose a little top end power, but if you're using it to commute, you're barely going to notice.
I've see people on the Facebook group claiming that the car MUST have 98RON as a minimum because "it says so on the petrol cap". Which isn't true (at least for my model year) - it says "Use 98RON fuel", but that's because it's recommended - there's no suggestion that you must ONLY use 98RON, or that anything less will cause your engine to explode. If you refer to the handbook, it does state quite explicitly that 98RON fuel is recommended for the best performance, but that 95RON fuel can be used with no detrimental effect other than slightly reduced power - but obviously, the inside of a petrol cap is a bit small to relay all that information so they just put "Use 98RON" on it.
If you're looking to save some money, which is perfectly understandable especially when doing high miles, then I'd just switch to 95RON and not bother with additives personally. Obviously this may not apply to modified vehicles which have been mapped specifically for higher octanes.
Subota Boy reacted to this -
2 hours ago, Shad said:+1
Only an issue when logged in though. When I delete all the cookies for the domain (and become logged out) it's fine. Logging in with cache disabled makes no difference, still broken. Firefox 97 on macOS.
Yup, same here. Removed all the cookies, still didn't work. Logged out, worked fine. Logged back in, fails again.
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24 minutes ago, will300 said:Try clearing your cache, there was an issue last week and the server needed some maintenance. It is resolved now.
No dice I'm afraid, didn't work. Affecting Chrome on my work laptop, my home PC and my phone.
However I have just tried it on MS Edge (spit) and it's working, so at least I know it's a "me" problem.
I'll do a bit more digging. Thanks.
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I spent most of last week thinking that the forums were down because the bookmark I use to access this page (https://www.gt86.org.uk/forums/forums/) was showing an HTTP Error 500.
If you try and view the forums at the top level (ie click "Forums") then you get the error page. The only way to view the forums it seems is by clicking one of the sub-levels (General, Technical, The Marketplace, etc)
Probably not a big deal, but is this known about/due to be fixed?
Just thought I'd mention it in case no one else had spotted it.
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14 hours ago, _Mac_ said:Discovered that my 86 can make into a multi story without grounding out.
Also, shamefully discovered photo editing software 🤷♂️
How sad is it that I know exactly what Tesco's carpark that is?
_Mac_ reacted to this -
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So I ended up ordering one of these last week, just to give it a try. It's exceptionally well made, and being lighter, it did make the gear stick feel 'snappier'.
However, I couldn't get on with the shape - I tend to rest my palm on the top when shifting, but because it was almost totally cylindrical and flat-topped with a very smooth finish, I felt like it didn't give me me much purchase. I think I'm happier with a ball-shaped shifter, like the OEM one, as I feel a bit more secure grasping it (snigger). I think the Duracon one would have been fine maybe with just a bit of knurling around the circumference, but after a day or so, I went back to the OEM one. No big loss - I made sure not to stick the logo on, so I was able to repackage it and send it back for a full refund. It's funny how subjective stuff like this is.
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I am tempted to try it for the price. I know it sounds silly, but I am just rather partial to keeping things looking as standard as possible, so would rather have a shift gate sticker on the top rather than the aftermarket logo. However it seems like you can buy generic stickers online, and the Tomei logo is removable, so maybe I could try sourcing a more standard looking replacement.
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I am here after seeing your response to my other thread where I'm looking for an OEM replacement, and Googling "GT86 Duracon SS" out of curiosity
Do they do one with the shift pattern on the top rather than the Tomei logo?
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23 minutes ago, DuncanM said:Replace with a Duracon SS, infinitely better, tasteful, and only 35 quid
If it looked stock I might consider it, but I prefer the feel of the round OEM one. And the Duracon is also much lighter, which can make the shift feel a bit notchy in my experience.
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Cheers Shad, but I think I might have sourced one with the red stitching, which is what I'm after ideally (that's what I currently have). To be honest, I thought they were all either black leather with red stitching, or red leather. Haven't seen one in plain black leather before. But thanks for the offer, I will keep it in mind!
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I gave the interior of my car a good clean last weekend, including giving the seats a well overdue proper scrub with leather cleaner. While I was there, I also decided to do the handbrake handle, the steering wheel and the leather gear knob with the same cleaner. I knew that the leather on my shift knob was a bit worn, but figured a clean wouldn't hurt - but it seems like I may have scrubbed it too aggressively (stop giggling at the back) and it seems to have actually taken the leather off in parts, leaving what feels like rubber underneath, which has also broken up a bit and feels quite rough.
It's not a big issue, but it's one of those things that will annoy me every time I get in the car. I was going to buy a new genuine replacement, but before I do, I figured I'd ask here, as I guess a lot of people might have switched to an aftermarket shift knob. Does anyone have an OEM black leather shift knob kicking about that they don't need and would be willing to sell? If so, please give me a shout
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19 minutes ago, WB_86 said:Vinegar to shift any scale build up would be worth a go too but don't fancy smelling like a chip shop for the next few weeks/months.
Try lemon juice instead of vinegar. I pour some in my kettle every couple of weeks - seems just as effective at removing limescale as vinegar, but with a better smell.
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If you're interested, I have an aftermarket Pioneer headunit for sale. Supports DAB and was better than the OEM unit in every way - I'm only selling it because I then switched to an Android Auto head unit.
q
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4 hours ago, 86iain said:I grease mine a couple of times a year. The noise comes back but hey ho.
I think I did mine about 6 months ago in the summer and it's been fine since then, but I will keep an ear out - I imagine now it's cold and damp, it may start to reappear.
Oh, one more thing BRZ - when you reattach the strut brace, be careful not to over-torque the nuts and the bolt. They have some ridiculously low torque setting, and if you overdo it and strip a stud, you're ****ed as they are welded into the panels. I just do them up as much as I can by hand then just a nip more with a socket.
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Do you have a pressure washer? First thing I'd try is blasting the nozzle from the outside in case it's a piece of grit or crud or something just inside it, as that sounds like the most likely way that flow would be affected.
Also, you could maybe try filling the washer bottle with hot water and flusing that through. I've sometimes found certain screenwashes can leave congealed residue in the plumbing if used in too high a concentration, which might lead to blockages, and sometimes hot water and soften and clean it.
Not sure if it will help, but they're simple things to try before pulling the cowling apart.
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Yup, it's the clutch fork. All you need to do is put some grease on the pivot point, just inside the bell housing. Bit fiddly, but not difficult.
1. Unbolt and remove the passenger side strut brace (just to give you better access).
2. Undo the two bolts holding the slave cylinder to the bell housing, and just move it out of the way so it's not pushing on the fork (no need to undo the hydraulic line).
3. Gently slide the rubber boot off the top of the clutch fork. You should now be able to reach a finger in behind the fork and feel for the pivot point. You'll have to work by feel, but should be able to reach it.
4. Once you know where the pivot point is, get a dollop of grease on your finger and apply it to the pivot point. I used red rubber grease as its nice and tacky. Work it in as best you can. Wiggle the fork back and forth a bit to help.
5. Once done, replace the rubber boot over the fork and reseat it properly on the bell housing. Reattach the slave cylinder, and then the strut brace and you're done. Work the clutch a few times to work the grease in and confirm the fix.
I did this a few months ago and it got rid of that god awful creaking. Some say you need to repeat the process regularly, but so far the noise hasn't returned.
BRZ-123 reacted to this -
1 hour ago, MartinT said:I had the engine/gearbox mounts changed today at Abbey Motorsport. The bag labels say TRD, but the parts are stamped Subaru, so I guess they are identical to the STi parts.
The new mounts are a whole world of difference in terms of handling. The chassis feels tight and precise, there is no jerkiness on pull-away and the whole car just feels more stable and better planted. This is what was needed to complement the Bilsteins. There is no more gearbox noise than before. It was a very worthwhile upgrade for the cost.
Yup. It also makes the gearbox feel nicer I found - feels like I am pushing the gear lever against more solid resistance, less energy from my arm being "wasted" as it were. Small but noticeable improvement
Feemono and MartinT reacted to this -
Sounds pretty good. I can hear a little touch of raspiness on the rev, is that just the video, or can you hear it in real life? Not much of a concern but it might be worse if you get catless headers
I have to say, I did a double take on opening this thread and seeing the thumbnails, because you have the same colour as me, I used to have Valentis, and your registration number is only one digit different to mine. For a split second I was convinced it was my own car
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1 hour ago, Varelco said:Are you looking to get one next year Dave? I'm a red car guy but I do fancy the Halo white too.
I don't know. Really quite like the look of them as a replacement. But I've never bought a brand new car, always thought it a bit of a waste of money, and would usually rather go for a used approved car that's a little older.
However, if there's only 400 coming to the UK, and they are touting that it will be the last of it's kind, I'm guessing they might not be readily available second hand. So now I am trying to justify some man maths to myself and see if I'm willing to, for the first time ever, buy something brand new. It would mean swallowing my pride after having spent years lecturing friends with brand new cars about the depreciation they are wasting money on
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10 minutes ago, Varelco said:Can't imagine that being the case since the GR86 will be manufactured in the Subaru's Gunma plant and the GR Yaris Toyota's Motomachi., If they were in the same factory then it would make sense, not to mention the colours have already been published everywhere else.
Yes, I hope so. I've seen the shots of the car in Neptune Blue, and to be honest, if I ordered one, I'd want it in that. Looks lovely.
SOLD-Kenwood DMX8020DABS Head Unit
in For Sale GT86 / BRZ Parts
Posted · Report reply
Supports wireless Apple CarPlay/Android auto, DAB radio, screen mirroring.
I purchased this headunit about a year ago. Fantastic piece of kit, in full working condition, but I am selling my car soon and so returning it to stock condition. These are still retailing at £600+ new.
I will also include the following accessories which should be everything you need to get the unit up and running in either a GT86 or BRZ:
- Toyota wiring harness
- FM radio harness
- DAB antenna
- Connects2 CTTOYOTAUSB USB socket adapter
- Connects2 CT23SU07 fascia/mounting bracket kit
(Note - for facelift models, you may need a different or further harness for steering wheel controls).
Located in Rochester, Kent.
£500
Price includes UK delivery.
Full specifications: https://www.kenwood.eu/car/navigation_multimedia/multimedia/DMX8020DABS/?view=
