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Luke

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Posts posted by Luke

  4. Posted · Report reply

    On 11/3/2022 at 12:46 PM, MartinT said:

    My H&S exhaust is now ready and will be installed on Friday 11 November.  I'm looking forward to the drive home, but possibly not the 2h drive there in the morning!

    You’re going to enjoy it! Just make sure you throw it round some corners to be certain the centre silencer doesn’t hit the transmission tunnel as it’s a very tight fit. 

    MartinT reacted to this

  7. Posted · Report reply

    Thanks Deacon, I’ve used a sheet of Perspex that covers the oil cooler. Managed to cut a slot in the under tray so that it slides in under the bumper hidden from view. Guess you can’t do that if you’re running aero/ splitters or just too damn low. 
    The oil gets temperature much sooner now and it sits at 89c stable. 
    Also a bonus is the coolant gets warmer sooner as well because it partially blocks air flow to the radiator. 

  9. Posted · Report reply

    I had similar issues sorting this before. From memory one side goes easy then the other, I think one points more towards the transmission tunnel and that one I usually do up loosely first. Then you can get the other spring bolt in before buttoning both of them down. One is always tighter then the other. 
    I’ve not seen the joint that the Scorpion uses but when I fitted a Tuning Developments exhaust I had to get some longer bolts and penny washers from B&Q instead. 
     

     

  12. Posted · Report reply

    23 hours ago, BRZ-123 said:

    The oil cooler will have a small flow through always. So it's technically always working ( whether at full opening or partial).

     

    Better is to put a blocker in front of the oil cooler like others have said. I have seen cardboard used here also seen JDM number plate holder which blocks part of front grille.

     

    It's also impt for the oil to get above 100C on and off as fuel in oil and water in oil only vaporise above that temp. Otherwise you have oil dilution issues which are evident if you send oil for Millers used oil analysis.

     

    Sent from my SM-G781B using Tapatalk

     

     

     

     

    Yeah it bleeds oil through to maintain consistent pressure. I did think about a JDM plate but that leaves the holes in the bumper exposed. You are right you do need to oil up to temp to burn off water and fuel in the oil. That’s my excuse for driving it hard every now and then. 
    I’ve already got the 90c stat in the oil cooler, so I just need to create a way to block off the cooler. 
     

     

    BRZ-123 reacted to this

  13. Posted · Report reply

    5 hours ago, MartinT said:

    Do you really mean coolant or intercooler coolant? Coolant should always run between 88C and 90C on a hot day. Mine never strays from that.

    Intercooler coolant in mine runs at +15 to +20C above iAT. It won't freeze in our winters with antifreeze in it.

    Sent from my Oppo X3 using Tapatalk
     

    My charge cooler temps are the same as yours 10-20c above IAT but stay stable through the rev range. 
     

    My engine coolant is lower because of the mishimoto thermostat that opens at 76c instead of the oem 88c. It’s part of the Cosworth setup to run a lower temp thermostat. 

    I guess the Harrop uses the oem one? 

  14. Posted · Report reply

    8 hours ago, Deacon said:

    Few things you could do that me and Will did was fit a higher temp thermostat for the oil cooler and also use a blanking plate in front of the oil cooler.

    How did you blank it off? I was thinking of using some Perspex and sliding it in front on the oil cooler. What temp are your thermostatic switches in the oil cooler? 

  15. Posted · Report reply

    Hi all, I’ve had a cosworth supercharger fitted for 10 months now and this is the first time heading through winter. 
    I have noticed that the cars oil and coolant stay relatively cool during normal driving. Coolant 77c and oil 78c.

    I fitted an oil cooler with a thermostatic flow valve that opens at 75c.

    I also fitted a mishimoto thermostat to the coolant pump which runs at 70c.

    Both of which help the car run really well on track but I just wondered if anyone else has noticed this and if so what they do to get it back up to 90c in winter with normal driving. 

    I could blank things off but I’ve never seen another 86 with any grills blocked off.

    Any help or advise would be much appreciated,

    Thanks.

  18. Posted · Report reply

    On 9/21/2022 at 5:55 PM, MartinT said:

    I still dislike Facebook's haphazard nature and threads that get quickly lost, so I'll continue blogging here.

    I finally got truly fed up with the temperamental nature of my TD exhaust, the noise that is still loud, and gets a lot louder when hot, and its poor build quality (I've twice had to have the end welds on the super-resonator re-made).  Not to mention the front dampers that were destroyed because they used a mole wrench on the piston struts.  That, together with all the trouble I had with my TD manifold burning the top hose, means I want rid of the last bit of TD from my car.

    I've decided, based on videos, owner reports and talking to Hayward & Scott, on a new exhaust.  I'm having a bespoke one made using their large silencer, dual Helmholz resonators and tips.  I specified 60mm stainless steel as they said it's good for up to 350bhp and I'm never going to uprate it above the 300bhp it's pulling now.  I want it quiet!

    They report 88dB at 5000 rpm with a stock engine, so add 2dB for the supercharger.  That will comfortably beat the 100dB or so that mine creates using my SPL meter at 1m distance.  More importantly, it will be much quieter around town, there should be no drone and it will have a deeper bass note.

    Installation is expected to be in about 4 weeks' time.

    You’ll love this exhaust, I’ve got it and the sound is great. No drone at all just a nice sound. Make sure that you get h and s to fit it as it’s likely to need tweaking with a blow torch to fit correctly as there are a few joins. Ian is great at h and s. 

    MartinT reacted to this

  20. Posted · Report reply

    Interesting. I have also recently installed a Berk HFC and noticed my mpg go up since fitting it over a broken oem cat. The noise is louder and deeper because the stock resonator is removed with the Berk. These cars are very raspy by nature, you should look to get a Helmholtz resonator welded into the car back exhaust at some point to keep the noise, drone and resonance levels down. 
     

    As for the mpg going down, you should look to have the ecu remapped to match the exhaust mods. This will sort out the fuelling and increase your mpg. I would suggest removing the negative battery terminal for 30mins to allow the fuel trims to reset as it might improve your mpg. 

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