McDude
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Content Count
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Days Won
7
Posts posted by McDude
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I'll second what Luke said - the OE seats are the best I've sat in, including motorway miles. Have you maybe not set up properly for posture? You'll struggle to find anything better.
Luke reacted to this -
Bump - price reduced to £150
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For Sale: Set of 4 Original alloys
£200£150I bought these as a spare set with the intention of putting winter tyres on them. I've had them in my shed for years and never done that so I thought I'd sell them. Two of the wheels are immaculate and two have very light curbing (previous owner not me!!!).
Wheels are in Essex, I don't really want to package them up. Depending where you are I could meet you half way. I'm in Eastbourne fairly frequently so could deliver there.
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It will be a blend door sticking - the AC unit is working because otherwise it wouldn't come out cold. The blend doors are the mechanisms inside the ducting that send air this way and that.
Which one is stuck and how do you get to it without tearing apart your dash? Can't help there unfortunately
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I've found them to be pretty good - it's not audiophile stuff but as @MartinT has said, it never will be in these cars. What you are describing, @Willson777 doesn't sound right (some pun intended!) they maybe won't knock your socks off but they should sound decent and should certainly be heard! Maybe check the set up in your head unit?
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That's what the USB lead is for - to make your centre console USB work with your headunit and allow CarPlay to function.
I've seen some run the USB to underneath the armrest (if you have one) which is a very neat solution as that is usually where your phone sits. The problem with the centre console is you always have the lead going across the gearstick.
Willson777 reacted to this -
I had to look up my old post to remind me of how I did it: Pioneer SPH-DA120 Install and Review - ICE/Electrical - Toyota GT86 and Subaru BRZ Drivers Club
Yes, just those connectors - was a piece of p1ss to install with those.
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The easiest way (though also costs a few quid) is jumper looms, none of the wires match up colour wise! The wiring is common between the GT86 and the BRZ and it's the Toyota architecture.
If I recall you need three looms, an ISO loom, a USB loom (so your USB still works) and an antenna loom.
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10 hours ago, MartinT said:Did you not buy the cloth cover (they call it a beanie) for really cold days?
I'm not sure I'll ever use mine, though, as I rather like the solid, weighty coolness of it
I had no idea such a thing existed. I've just googled it and I'm not sure I could bring myself to use such a tea-cosy. While I said it was like the original Puma, it is nothing like as bad as that; the Billetworkz part is a bit chilly, you'd swear the part on the Puma had active cooling in it. The Puma part was bare aluminium whereas these have a thick paint layer on them so I think that takes the edge off.
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I have one of these in white, red font but no STI etching.
It looks and feels great... except on a cold day! Reminds me of the original Puma which had a similar metal bulb, changing gear with my sleeve pulled down 😄
ThatGuyThere reacted to this -
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I can't hear anything in the clip.
It's not the brake wear indicators going off is it? There are little metal springs/clips that start to make a squeal as your pads start to wear down. I had this on my fronts and thought the PAS pump was failing as it was worse with lock applied.
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If there isn't a puddle of oil on the floor the only places it can go are into the combustion chamber or leaking out the turbo and into the exhaust (and burning there). If it's coming out the turbo I'd expect you to see smoke, which you say you don't see.
What do your exhaust tips look like? This should be creating a fair bit of soot for that much oil even if it doesn't appear as smoke.
As this is a rebuilt engine my guess is the crankcase is getting pressurised and the oil is coming up via the rings and burning in the cylinders. What do your spark plugs look like? They'd be pretty black if this is happening. But you might not see it in smoke coming out the back.
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Assume you are running a lot of boost to get 400bhp so is the crank case getting unduly pressurised to create pullover?
Is the ring pack up to the job? Is it the engine? Is the turbo pulling oil?
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The problem with mods is that you need to find someone who values the exact mods you've done. Even in that case they will likely only give you a fraction of what you paid. If you can be bothered, put it back to OE spec and I think you'll get more for the car as it is then unmolested in the eyes of the buyer.
You've got some high value mods there that would sell pretty easily on their own.
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I just did my fronts at 40k miles. If anything, lack of use over lockdown made things worse with the discs being rusty every time I used it.
I'd say 40k miles is low for a mass market car but high for a performance vehicle. As the parts are cheap I'm not complaining. I went for stock fit Brembo discs and pads and there is a big improvement to stopping and pedal feel.
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I'm 6'2" and there's still seat rail left over! So it's as good as any car in terms of room. There is no room for a rear seat passenger behind me when I'm driving though.
I have a Subaru and like Martin T, I like that it's a bit different even though it's fundamentally the same car. For me it was just that a BRZ was available at the right price/time etc. because I was looking at GT86s as well.
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Or just leave it stock! One of the things I love about the BRZ is that it's not a Toyota 😉
The other thing I love is that you really have to work to get the most out of it and there is something very rewarding about that. You can't be lazy and ride on a wave of torque, you have to work the cogs and rev the engine to get the best out of it. Yes it's not very torquey low down but so what? It revs to 7400rpm and there aren't many engines that offer that from mainstream manufacturers, and thanks to turbos the reward to rev is low.
DuncanM reacted to this -
18 hours ago, Neil-h said:Yup, there's tonnes of people on here running various aftermarket manifolds with out the pre-cat with no problem at all. The only point it can get a little iffy is if you fit a higher flow cat but then that's just one of those things.
If memory serves me from the good old days of Subarus, the pre-cat is only there to get the car under a particular level for type approval. The emission threshold for the MOT is actually significantly higher but they have to come from the factory with the pre-cat as that's what they type approval was awarded with.
Yes - the close coupled cat is to pass homologation. It's there because this is tested starting with a cold engine under much stricter test conditions and getting cat light off is critical to passing (how strict this is depends if you have a stage 5 or stage 6 car). MOTs are done on hot engines with hot catalysts and basic test kit so you'll pass with an underfloor only. The majority of emissions are created at cold. Once hot a modern gasoline engine with a catalyst is a remarkably clean bit of kit.
So it is a moral question - are you okay removing a piece of tech that is there to protect the environment even though you won't get in trouble for it? How much it hits the environment depends on what percentage of your time is run cold vs warm.
I'm not judging or telling you what to do - just letting you know that you will be contributing a few more pollutants into the atmosphere and if you are okay with that then have at it. Your MOT tester will not call you out.
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Is the picture attached your throttle? It doesn't look very clean, in fact it looks rather sooty. You may have inadvertently flushed some debris in there, either at the plate interface and/or you've damaged/stripped the bearings. It does sound like a sticky throttle.
Try a clean and regrease? But not gobs of grease.
These engines are MAF based control and those sensors are easily contaminated. You've not upset it whilst taking the AIS apart have you? A bit of sensor cleaner might be in order.
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They are lovely people on the stands but they aren't usually the most technical.
Varelco reacted to this -
As a Subaru owner I don't mind saying that the Toyota is the better looking car this time round
I'm still not sold on the back end but the design is definitely growing on me on the whole. I'm going to Goodwood FOS so I'll hunt this one down.
GT86-Ian and BRZ-123 reacted to this
Berk HFC frontpipe mpg issues
in Modifications
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Has it resolved your MPG issues though?
If you have a new cat with different airflows this will upset your closed loop control as the lambda sensor will be in a slightly different position and see different velocity over it and possibly different gas presentation. A leak would exacerbate this error state and maybe sorting the leak sorts out your closed loop as well. If you are hosing fuel you'll be running rich as hell, so get it sorted not just for your wallet, but also because it will hurt you big time with possible fouled plugs, fuel in oil and damaged cats if you run that way for a long time - of course this will really hurt your wallet!!!