Sideways?

sounds good, I'm not in a rush to get them, although it would be nice to have them on the car before my next trackday in mid-September I think I'm simply going to run out of time to get it all sorted out... If you could weigh them that would be appreciated 🙂 Thanks!

excellent! would you consider posting?? Otherwise, I'll be over your way (kinda, ish...) in September somewhen so could collect then 🙂

Still available??

Is the manifold still available??

Get a thin cutting disc on an angle grinder and slice the bolt apart. Then you should be able to separate the parts a d go from there...

You don't need to convince me... I'll pass you on to my wife and see how you get on ;-) Sent from my E6553 using Tapatalk

Fair point, although, in my defence, I haven't been able to justify (to SWMBO) spending money replacing perfectly serviceable parts while the warranty is still in place, and since I'll only get one shot - heaven forbid I pick the wrong manifold - I'll take as long as I need to make a decision :-P Also, if anyone else was interested in having this done, I'm sure they'd like to know what they could expect for their money... Lastly, tbh, I'd completely forgotten about this thread until the question of cost was brought up recently... Sent from my E6553 using Tapatalk

Is there a dyno plot? What's the uplift in power and torque...??

They are huge wheels, won't you have trouble getting them under the arches...? Sent from my E6553 using Tapatalk

I admire the desire to be different, and fitting a V12 would definitely be different... I think the main problem you'll face with any engine swap is the length of the engine to include the extra cylinders, as a flat four the engine is only 2 cylinders "long" whereas a V12 would be 6 cylinders "long"... Plus as mentioned previously, that is a big heavy engine that isn't even very powerful... If you want to swap a V12 you want the newest one you can get your hands on, simply because it will be more compact, lightweight and more powerful... Sent from my E6553 using Tapatalk

Righto, sounds like a horrible story so far, how difficult is it to visit the workshop where the car is? Perhaps you need to show up more often so the guy can't "forget" what you've agreed... Sent from my E6553 using Tapatalk

Man that sucks... Did you ever have anything on paper about what the guy would do for you and how much it would cost...? I hope you get it sorted without too much further hassle, is it mobile? I.e. Could you just turn up and trailer it away?? If yes you can just turn up out of the blue and take it... Sent from my E6553 using Tapatalk

Rob, can you do some more building so we can move on from talk of suspension setup...? (thrilling as it is...) U can haz yo Fred bak bruv, take it!! Sent from my E6553 using Tapatalk

Carbon ftw...! Sent from my E6553 using Tapatalk

Which manifold did you go for? If I ever manage to save enough I'll probably go for a catless manifold, a remap and keep the rest of the stock exhaust... Sent from my E6553 using Tapatalk

Well, my understanding is that you only need one cat - standard or sports - to pass the MOT... I imagine the quality of the sports cat does have a bearing on how good it is though... Obviously if you remove both completely you'll never pass :-) but if you wanted a really loud car I'm sure you could keep your original front pipe and just change it every year for the MOT... Sent from my E6553 using Tapatalk

Because there is a second cat in the system in the front pipe... Sent from my E6553 using Tapatalk

From Aberdeen (location of OP - apparently) pretty much everywhere is South...

And in answer to your other question, I would suggest making sure that you're happy with how "run in" it is before getting it re-mapped... I say it like that because there are a lot of opinions on running in, the GT86 "should" be run less than 4k rpm for 1,000 miles, but how strictly you follow that is up to you! I found that I took that as a flexible rev limit and after 2,000 miles at the first GT86 Dyno Day my car was producing (fractionally) more power than some of the cars with less mileage on them. Again, I think Knightryder on here has the Litchfield Performance Pack and is happy with it, but then he has also experienced difficulty getting in touch with them since having the pack fitted, and I believe it was a tricky journey getting it fitted in the first place!! Since Abbey and Fensport are all dahn sarf I'd suggest one of the more Northern tuners like Tarmac or Amber (I think they're oop norf, but someone will correct me if I'm wrong!!) but in general just poke around the forum and you'll get an idea of what is on offer and where!!

Super, ta! PM en route...

Nigel, Google is your friend: www.fluidampr.com/buy/ Looks like import from the States only, so cruise the list and choose someone who looks trustworthy...! IMO, they look expensive for very little apparent benefit but each to their own, but you've spent serious money on your engine build so probably worth doing everything you can to protect it since it'll be running at high RPM most of the time!!

@Jamie_gt86 : can you get the part numbers for the bolts that should be replaced?? That 5,009 page pdf is a flipping nightmare...

Cheers, I finally did some digging and found the 5009 page manual on the FT86 Club forum... Which manual did you use? I reckon front crossmember details are on page 3209, and rear subframe are on page 3250 of the FT86 Club mega PDF. As you mention, those figures are for the rear subframe, I believe fronts are 60Nm for the blue circled bolts, and 95 Nm for F1 & F2.. I'm going to have to see where to get the bolts from and how much they are, as well as decide if I think it can be wiggled enough to mean I don't need to take half the car apart to slip the collars in... Fun all round :-)

So, I did say things happen slowly in my part of the world.... Anyway, have some before and after alignment readings, you can see that my rear toe was out, and I think that is why it felt a bit more frisky than "normal" at the rear... Needless to say it is now much nicer to drive and the rear doesn't seem to snap out quite so much as before the alignment... Anyone found the torque readings for the bolts to drop the subframe yet??

Maybe I'm not looking at the graphs properly, but from these graphs I can't see the advantage of the Fluidampr - It appears to perform worse than the stock damper; it doesn't make any difference to outright performance (overall, I know there is extra torque dip which is bad, but it is up in other places so on balance = no difference) AND doesn't significantly change the vibration characteristics... Plus it is $500 or something... I think it is accepted that there is an improvement in engine response when rotating weight is reduced, but I can't see the Fluidampr being much lighter than stock, and since it doesn't appear to have any benefit over the stock damper from these graphs I think this is definitely not worth the investment... Also, it would be nice to know what lightweight pulley they used, and if they would anticipate a similar response with all lightweight pulleys - could the 6th order spike be caused by the design of the pulley?? How lightweight was the lightweight pulley they used?? Would a heavier/lighter one have different vibration characteristics?? Lastly, I think we all have to congratulate Fluidampr for doing the investigation and putting these graphs out there (thanks to Knighty for posting them here...) so that we can finally have some meat to discuss on the subject of lightweight pulleys...