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Stutopia

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Posts posted by Stutopia

  5. Posted · Report reply

    If you think they’re tiny dents, ignore my suggestion about waterspot remover (not that it would do any harm).

     

    I don’t like to just arbitrarily disagree with other peoples’s choice of detailing products, as it’s a lot of personal choice, but I’d leave my glass bare rather than use RainX. It’s durability is very poor in my opinion, requiring frequent reapplication, and it smears. Go for something from nanolex, gtechniq or gyeon if you want a glass sealant, but obviously don’t put it on a screen that isn’t clean!

    Good luck mate.

    lewism1 reacted to this

  6. Posted · Report reply

    You sure they’re not on the inside? ;)

    It’s weird that clay doesn’t touch them, I can’t think of many mechanical cleaners that would be better than that. If it’s bad enough you’re thinking of stumping up for a new windscreen, before splashing the cash I’d try a chemical cleaner like a waterspot remover and then go directly to a glass polish on a machine. 

    lewism1 reacted to this

  7. Posted · Report reply

    Due to house moves, job change, general life getting the way stuff I've not done a mod on the BRZ for an eternity, but tonight the stars aligned. My tools came out of storage, the weather was good, there was no World Cup and I remembered to bring home my recent package from across the pond. Perfect.

    Now you all know by now that I don't go in for the frivolous modding business, wasting your hard earned on bits and pieces of performance and bling. So when I get the allen keys out, you know it's preventative maintenance or safety related. This is both. I've noticed a bit of a rattle from the stick area at high revs and the other day the gear position badge popped off. So I decided to deal with matters, before maintenance it turned into a serious safety issue.

    Tired old nob, well thumbed, not all that satisfying to hold and with quite a lot of stubborn, foul smelling, greasy build up around the very top.

    0lrzKHy.jpg

     

    I picked up this luuurrrveerrrrly bit of kit from Raceseng in the US, yeah you get stung on shipping and taxes, but it's two gorgeous pieces of machine work.

    oEAZYdQ.jpg

     

    Phwooooarrrr.

    jXC3TLu.jpg

     

    QJAhO1R.jpg

     

    Hopefully my rattles are gone and I'll enjoy the feel of a heftier, more bulbous nob for years to come.

    The eagle eyed amongst you may notice that I failed to get my sheath back in position before the money shot, I was just a bit too excited and the camera just went off in my hand, before I had time to withdraw. It happens...

    Mark-in-Stoke reacted to this

  10. Posted · Report reply

    What a strange coincidence, I noticed a pull to left on the motorway today, only occurs under throttle, not coast or braking. Tried a good few times over 50 miles, regardless of camber or surface quality, always pulling leftward on gas. I’ve not been for an alignment check yet, it felt more like a bit of play in something when I gave it a wiggle.

  13. Posted · Report reply

    Thanks all for the info, much appreciated.

    I’ve run performance/track pads before but never noticed such a pronounced drop off when cold, hence my question. Obviously I’m just used to the greater clamping force of bigger brakes or a compound that warmed up a fraction quicker. 

  17. Posted · Report reply

    Over the winter months I’ve noticed on motorway runs that the initial bite of the brakes really isn’t great. This tends to be when it’s particularly cold and wet (I do appreciate that cold brakes aren’t as efficient, but it’s more pronounced than I’ve ever noticed on any other car). The usual light dab to shave off a few MPH yields little stopping power, so I get on them a bit harder, this generates some warmth and then all is good. If I get on them hard straight away there’s a little, slightly disconcerting, pull to the right before returning to normal braking. Other than this, they perform very well when I’m driving in a spirited fashion or the weather is a touch warmer.

    Naturally I asked my tech to check the braking forces across the wheels and he advises they are spot on, balanced almost perfectly left to right. This leaves the pads. Anyone else running StopTech pads (or even other brands) experienced similar results on the motorway in the cold?

    Thanks, Stu.

  18. Posted · Report reply

    2 hours ago, Yotast3v3 said:

    They said it was just the trouble of raising the engine for the plugs, although reading on here I’m not too sure if this is needed, or if it can be done with the right extensions. 

     

    Any how, I know I wouldn’t be able to do it, so as long as it’s done Reyt!

    My tech managed it with multiple short extensions.

  20. Posted · Report reply

    I had the almost exact same thing happen, they pulled the dent and then filled it to make it perfect. You’d never know it had been repaired. Matching the paint will be trickier than sorting the dent and you’ll have to do that whether your repair the door, buy one second hand or get a new one from Toyota. I can’t think of a good reason to buy a new door when you’ll never know after paint has gone on.

  21. Posted · Report reply

    I lived on the coast in Blackpool for years, didn’t get what all the fuss was about, warm/salty sea air kept us snow free. Two months in Leeds and I’ve seen more snow than I did the last 10 years. I’ll be saddling up winter tyres next time, it was a total PITA getting up/down hills to major roads. Whether you put it down to carbon emissions or natural cycles, these bouts of extreme cold seem to be getting more frequent and lasting longer.

  23. Posted · Report reply

    Thanks everyone for the comments, I’m now more confident about the choices. Thanks also for the suggestions about recess and more aggressive ETs. There’s nothing I can see around ET35 in the wheels I want. I could go wider rim to get more pokey out, but I don’t want to add too much extra rubbery grip at the back.

    I had a quick look on willtheyfit, the 18x8s options both stick out an extra 15.7mm, which isn’t much but it’s in the right direction and I can live with recess, it’s not what’s irritating me about the stock rims. At least it will be a bit better and only about £15 a corner more expensive on rubber.

     

    RPF1 - 18x8.0 - ET45 - Tyres 225/40/18 - Outer rim moves 15.7mm outward, inner rim 9.7mm inward

    TE37 - 17x7.5 - ET44 - Tyres 215/45/17 - Outer rim moves 10.4mm outward, inner rim 2.4mm inward

    TE37 - 18x7.5 - ET48 - Tyres 215/40/18 - Outer rim moves 6.4mm outward, inner rim 6.4mm inward

    TE37 - 18x8.0 - ET45 - Tyres 225/40/18 - Outer rim moves 15.7mm outward, inner rim 9.7mm inward

    I guess I could always add spacers if it bothered me

    ***rinses out mouth***

  24. Posted · Report reply

    I've been thinking about changing the stock wheels and getting something in gold/bronze to work with the beautiful blue paint. On my list are Enkei RPF1s and Volk TE37 Sagas. As I've never bought aftermarket wheels before (my old Z had gorgeous RAYS as stock) I just wanted to check with the more experienced wheel buyers that I'm not about to order something that will stick out 6 inches, foul the brakes (maybe even a BBK in future) or rub the arches. I think I've picked conservative sizes, although they're a cosmetic purchase, function is important too. No stance, no stretch.

     

    RPF1 - 18x8.0 - 5x100 - ET45 - ∅ 56mm --- Tyres 225/40/18 - Speedo Error -1.87%, Arch Gap Loss 5.95mm

    TE37 - 17x7.5 - 5x100 - ET44 - ∅ 65mm --- Tyres 215/45/17 - SE -0.00%, AGL 0.00mm

    TE37 - 18x7.5 - 5x100 - ET48 - ∅ 65mm --- Tyres 215/40/18 - SE -0.62 %, AGL 1.95mm

    TE37 - 18x8.0 - 5x100 - ET45 - ∅ 65mm --- Tyres 225/40/18 - SE -1.87%, AGL 5.95mm

     

    If you've got any other similar quality wheels you think I should be considering, please feel free to post up suggestions, but they've got to leave the factory in gold or bronze and they can't be too intricate to clean easily!

    PS - am I right in thinking our centre bore is 56.1mm and the studs are M12 x 1.25?

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