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Adi

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Posts posted by Adi

  2. Posted · Report reply

    New, genuine, bought from US, never installed.  £325

    Significantly improves the drivability of the stock car.  Installs in an hour or less. Will not affect MOT, etc.

    Best NA power mod if you do not want to go the manifold + tune  route, which is several times more expensive.

    Independent review here: https://motoiq.com/tested-crawford-performance-fr-s-brz-power-blocks-intake-manifold-spacers/

    * Improves OEM Torque Dip by 300 RPM on a Totally Stock BRZ 
    * Improves Acceleration
    * Decreases Delay between Shifts with AT
    * Increases the Volumetric Efficiency of your Intake Manifold

    This is the real thing, not the cheap imitations you see from other sellers. It cost me around £400 including import duties and VAT.
     

    IMG_7472.jpg

    IMG_7462.jpg

  3. Posted · Report reply

    I've got a long tube manifold now,  so I am selling my Tomei Expreme EL (equal length) catless manifold. Driven for about 20,000 miles, performed flawlessly, about 20hp power increase over stock.  

    It is also wrapped and has aluminium foil on top of the wrap, in case you get an oil leak it will not catch fire. You can also remove the wrap if you want to.

    If interested, please let me know. It will have to be collection from  Stockton, Southam CV47 8HN

  4. Posted · Report reply

    I've got the Alleggerita 7.5x17, with 215 x 45 x 17  PS4 tyres.  The only difference from stock is faster acceleration because of light wheels. :).  I also beat on them silly on the track and off, hitting curbs and stuff and they never missed a beat. 

    Also don't get too much camber, unless you're chasing 10ths on the track. I did Brands Hatch recently with 1.5' camber all around and it was a lot of fun, got a bit more squealing than with 2.5, but who cares :).  Really great on the road too.  I'm thinking PS4s may have too much grip if you like to go sideways at every roundabout, but they are amazingly safe in the wet. Also quite progressive and confidence inspiring when going fast.

  7. Posted · Report reply

    I went ahead and asked Mark to rename Aug 3rd  as a GT86 & BRZ club member day, so that non-club people will not book it for now. It will stay like this for a week.

    We can still do a different day if we decide to, but I figured we protect this one for now since it had the most votes.  As the word is spreading the days are starting to go pretty fast. 

    So again if anybody else would like to do Aug 3rd, (or July 6th) please let us know.

    willclarke reacted to this

  10. Posted · Report reply

    37 minutes ago, spikyone said:

    I'd be up for doing a 4 person day, are you thinking of doing it as a GT86/BRZ group day?

    Either way can be a lot of fun. As a group day we can ask him to customise the training more specifically for what you would want to get out of it - once you are over the basics, plus  you get to compete against cars similar to yours rather than something like a 700hp McLaren in the final circuit trials  ;).  But I've done it on my own too and enjoyed meeting the other drivers, some times we jump in each other's car as a passenger. Depending on your particular level of car control you may also get to do slightly different things. Like when all the new guys were practicing braking I was doing variations on exiting the high speed bend and so on.

    spikyone reacted to this

  11. Posted · Report reply

    Car Limits went bust and was bought out by another company. Not sure about the details, but their main business was Supercar Days (lots of people paying for 3 laps in a Lamborgini or Ferrari and so on)  relying heavily on continuous income from it. Once the lockdowns hit they couldn't hold out for too long. 

    Drive Limits is Mark's own venture, focused solely on driver training and activity days.

    BRZ-123 reacted to this

  12. Posted · Report reply

    Mark (formerly of Car Limits) is back doing Handling days and Activity days at the North Weald Airfield.
    I did a few of these days and they are fantastic for learning car control at and over the grip limit in a safe environment.

      4 people instruction days are £ 225 per person

      20 people Activity days are £80 per person  

    http://drivelimits.com

    Screen Shot 2021-03-18 at 20.24.31.png

    willclarke, Kodename47 and spikyone reacted to this

  19. Posted · Report reply

    1 hour ago, Lauren said:

    Adi. You would be able to find play if there is any in the balljoint. Same with bushes, so if there isn't any, it's not likely to be that. Mine clunks/pops too, often when I move backwards. I've not had any vibration though. Unless your mileage is really high the bushes are not likely to be worn. Not sure what it is, but more likely to be something else, like ARB or track rod. Unless they can isolate what it is, I'm not sure it's worth keep changing parts. 

    Lauren, you are correct. Thank you. Not sure these guys can isolate it, and most other places are closed. There is no play anywhere when the car is on the ramp. Wheel has to be loaded and weight shifting. Heard similar story from someone with an Audi, went to many garages and dealerships until one mechanic decided to replace the ball joint and fixed it. So I either find a damn good mechanic - which is not easy now, at least  within N. London area, or I try replacing parts and hope one of them is the culprit  :(

    How would you test for the drop links / ARB ?

  20. Posted · Report reply

    Hi Lauren, I think it may the bushes or the ball joint. There is some vibration in the wheel but also in the chasis and pedals, usually accompanied by a springy clunk / pop sound when moving at very low speed. Less strong at high speed. It is stronger when moving on, accelerating or breaking. I took it to a local shop, they looked at everything, even changed the wheel bearings, but found nothing while on  the ramp. It also seems to be less noticeable when car is cold, and it needs the front wheels to be loaded and have some  weight shifting movement.

    They think may be may be something to do with the front lower arm.

     

  22. Posted · Report reply

    I had the Ohlins MP20 on my previous 2014 GT86 with the 30/40 springs, and have the MP21 on my current 2016 GT86 with the 50/50 springs and the Ohlins (solid) top mounts.

    My experience with the 30/40 spring was similar to yours, and lost the rear at the track a couple of times quite unexpectedly because of not enough travel at the back. Luckly I recovered both times. The car was lowered to Ohlins recommendations, about 20mm in front and 15mm back.

    With the 50/50 springs and 2' of camber at the back I have a quite a hard time getting the rear loose, and I also feel it long before it happens. But I also did not lower the car, I kept it stock height.

    If I were in your shoes I would give the 50/50 springs a try.  

    Church reacted to this

  23. Posted · Report reply

    26 minutes ago, Quemadillo said:

    @Adi those stoptech look really nice, how good are in terms of wheel fit? I want to fit them on a 17 7.5 et35 ultraleggera

     

    Thanks 

     

    I think they will fit, especially with et38. If you want to be sure you can write to OZ and ask them.

    I sent them this letter, and they got back to me in 48 hours:

    To:   info@ozracing.com

    Dear Sir/Madam
    I would like to know if your wheel  (put your own wheel spec here) can clear these Big Break Kit calipers on a Toyota GT86.
    I am giving bellow links to the templates for these brake systems:

    1. Stop Tech 328x28:     https://www.apcautotech.com/APCAutoTech/media/APCAutoTech/Files/WheelFitment/98-827-2430-01_FP.pdf
    2. Essex AP Sprint Kit:    https://www.essexparts.com/storage/wysiwyg/FT86_CP8350-300_front_wheel_template.pdf

    Thank you very much,
    .....

  24. Posted · Report reply

    I had the Essex AP kit. It's not worth it. Unless you are a race/track only car, focused on shaving the last 10th of a second from your timing, forget about it. Besides no dust boots and being expensive to import:

    - It squeals like crazy when coming to a stop on normal road, regardless of what pads you use, period.

    - It has less mass than other kits, therefore it will get hotter. You need high temp race pads to use with it. If you are using hybrid track/road pads (like DS2500) it will lead to "warping", i.e.  pad deposits unevenly stuck to the disk, and require resurfacing. Also pads last less than you'd expect.

    I don't have experience with Reyland, but I had very good experience with the StopTech BBK , which has been very reliable. Done about 18 Track days and 14 airfield training days on them. Great quality, plug and play, never had a problem, much better experience than the Essex kit.

    Price-wise it comes about the same as Reyland.

     

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