Jump to content

Bfranklyn86

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Content Count

    227

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by Bfranklyn86

  1. Posted · Report reply

    24 minutes ago, Cerastes said:

    Nice. 

    Probably a silly question but when you fit a supercharger doesn't the manifold get changed too? As I thought the manifold was a "limiting" factor; so surely fitting a supercharger and changing manifold would give you a better performance boost?

    If so, that would make the exhaust note change slightly?

    As Paul said, Q300 is a good catback for a better exhaust note but not being overly loud. It was the one I was planning to get until I came across a 2nd hand Avo; which I love. 

    Not a stupid question at all!

    There is 17whp more at the top end on offer for me if I get an aftermarket catless manifold and a high flow cat centre pipe. I don't think it's worth it.

    If I was ever to drop a pulley size (which Mark has told me unequivocally not to do) then I'd definitely do it. A guy in the states is making 280whp with just a tomei UEL manifold and a dropped pulley size..... rest of the exhaust stock

    I also considered paying £330 to get the stock manifold cat removed - not sure what the horsepower gain is with this though.

  2. Posted · Report reply

    2 hours ago, Paul said:

    Love the mods so far, I'd also recommend looking at the Invidia Q300 for a catback if noise supression is what you're after but with a nicer tone.

    Can I ask how you're finding the clutch?

    The q300 is a good shout, and I would probably snap up a second hand one. However, two reasons why my number 1 preference is Ade's Hayward and Scott:

    1) the q300 is (supposedly) quiet throughout the rev range, whereas the H+S has been designed to be quiet around the RPMs where you get the annoying cabin boom on WOT, but then louder when you want it to scream.

    2)exhaust flow. The H+S is a 2.75" and it's a Y-shape. Unlike the q300 which is a back box.

    The clutch has a slightly sharper biting point than stock. It's hard to say if it's responsible for any other changes because it went on simultaneously with the supercharger. Its fine for DD and for track, so overall I'm happy.

    Ade reacted to this

  3. Posted · Report reply

    Hi all,

    I thought I'd do a build thread for two reasons: firstly, although I've only done 2 significant mods so far, they have transformed the driving experience in terms of added performance and enjoyment gained. Secondly, I'm poised to make a few more upgrades and would appreciate any guidance. 

    I got my silver '13 GT86 with no ambition to modify it, as the last car I'd owned was a bone stock Toyota starlet......... so the 86 was a big step up! However, about 6 months into ownership the torque dip was starting to annoy me, and I thought the car had unused potential because it is light (ish), has a low center of gravity and a good chassis.  I also did one track day while the car was stock which confirmed to me that the car could use a tad more power in this domain too.

    Overall, my aim is to keep this car as a comfortable daily driver which can also hold it's own (reliably) on track. My second aim is to avoid the look and sound of a heavily modded car.

     

    Mod 1) Harrop Supercharger (installed and tuned by Mark at Abbey). 240whp, dyno'd on the hottest day of the year. 

    Very happy with how this turned out - torque everywhere and it produces the power reliably lap after lap on track. It is not perfect, there are a couple of niggles (like hesitation at low revs when the engine is cold), but overall it has been fantastic. However, noting that the stock brakes had struggled on track even under NA power, I soon realised I needed to do something about the brakes: 

    Mod 2) AP Racing front BBK. 4 piston. (I've also got Stoptech disks/pads on the rear)

    This has been another great buy. I have not experienced any brake fade since they were fitted. And no longer any squeal....that was worth the 2.2K alone.

    Minor Mods: I also have an Extreme Organic Clutch, the intec high level brake light, and have swapped the Primmies for PS4s.

    Now for the exciting bit......my wish list!!!!

    - Catback: I think this car deserves a more aggressive/louder exhaust note. However, I do not want it too loud so that it sounds obnoxious or attracts too much attention, and my GF has said she is not a fan of loud cars. @Ade's custom Hayward & Scott catback is probably the one I'd go for because it is quiet in the RPM ranges where I usually drive - 2-3k. Unless good quality second hand catback comes up really really cheap in the meantime.

    - Suspension: I like the way this car twitches around a bit on country roads, but lets be honest the stock suspension is much too 'floppy' on track. Currently looking at coilovers but I have a lot of research to do. I do want to lower it just a little bit, I do want to be able to adjust damping from track to road use, and I want to be able to add some camber. I'm happy to spend a bit of money here, because i'm not willing to compromise too much on the stock ride quality.

    - Wheels: While I think this would be a good place to save some weight, the price of good quality forged wheels is prohibitive for me. They also fail the 'keep stock look' test, so unless the right style set come along at the right price, I will not be getting any.

    - Cosmetic: The valenti sequentials look really nice, but can't decide what colour is best for Silver. Also, I want an ebay rear diffuser.

    Right, thanks for reading! As I suspect I am the only one who will read this, I will therefore thank myself. I'm really happy with the mods I've made because the performance has been transformed, while the stock look, sound, and fun factor has not.  PLEASE, if you have any suggestions to help with what I've mentioned on my wish list, let me know.

     

    IMG_0853 (1).JPG

    IMG_1275.JPG

    surrey86 and DanJ reacted to this

  4. Posted · Report reply

    I agree with Paul that I think this car does need a bit of lowering. There's a bigger wheel arch gap than most family saloons.

    But equally I wouldn't want a fully slammed look or an aweful ride. 

    But anyway......it now looks like I'm keeping the 86 for the foreseeable future, so I'll be doing a build thread soon explaining what I've done and where I want to take the car.

  7. Posted · Report reply

    On 27/04/2017 at 11:09 AM, GT-Eighty-Chris said:

    I'm not sure on the wheels. So many out there and if you are going to do it properly from what I've seen it's quite costly. 

    What also comes ones with new wheels is tyres and I would want good tyres. Any recommendations? I would want black or anthracite ones 

     

    I've gone through the same do I don't I get some wheels phase as you....

    Would like to save I sprung weight, would like some more grip, but don't really want the aftermarket look.

    In the end I've gone for some new PS4s on my stock wheels to see if this solves the grip issue. Got my first track day on them tomorrow.

  12. Posted · Report reply

    On 05/03/2017 at 9:11 PM, Rich said:

    FWIW black circles is cheaper - £68.95 for a V105S and PS4 are £91.20. About the same difference.

    Is that unfitted? Best I can find is £85 for the yokos and £106 for the ps4s. With that much of a price difference I'm really in two minds.

  13. Posted · Report reply

    1 hour ago, Lauren said:

    There is a huge choice in regard to wheels out there. Ironically most seem to fit replica wheels like Rota and Japan Racing wheels. This is really due to the real item being hideously expensive. In all honesty whilst replica wheels are not my thing, they tend to work well enough and I very rarely hear of people having problems. I have the odd friend with a cracked Rota wheel, but it has to be said it's a rarity. Replica wheels are cheaper cast copies of forged wheels. The real thing is stronger and lighter but it depends how much you worry about such things. 

    Mid range wheels like OZ are fine too and at least they are not copies of other wheels. I guess it comes down to how much you want to spend really. For example a set of Rotas or JR racing can be had for around £600 or less in some instances. A set of OZ's £800-£1000. A set of Enkei or Works wheels around £1200, then you have the upper sector with Rays and Advan costing you north of £2K. 

    The other option of course is to buy second hand for a set of a decent make of wheels. There is nothing wrong with this, but check the wheels carefully of course. 

    So all of this is subject to how much you just want it for looks, whether performance is important and also how authentic or not you want to be with what you put on your car. Of course the bottom line is how much you spend. 

     

    So the enkei and works are forged too?

    I'd be doing this for performance, I actually think the stock wheels look good (albeit the car rides too high on them).

  14. Posted · Report reply

    I thought the gearing was perfect for NA, but FI I find that 1st is pretty much obsolete and a bit jerky. 

    Ive heard of FI people in the States swapping the final drive for a Lexus one that's shorter (longer?, basically the opposite to how people usually swap their FDs)

    i thought 18s might be a neat little way of improving grip, better looks and getting a change in final drive.

    Also, would the speedo not read under?

    Mark-in-Stoke reacted to this

  15. Posted · Report reply

    1 hour ago, Ztox said:

    I thought that much was obvious and assumed he was talking about a larger rolling diameter/including the same tyre sidewall size haha

    Actually I didn't realise that's what people did! But I would be looking to increase the rolling diameter to increase FD.

    seems like everyone on 18s has reduced the tyre size accordingly.....

  16. Posted · Report reply

    1 hour ago, Deacon said:

    You won't change the gearing with the wheels. To do that you'd need to fit either under or over sized tyres.

    Errrm, surely larger diameter wheels will change the gear ratio?? But anyway, sounds like not enough for anyone to notice.

  17. Posted · Report reply

    Generic wheel question for the wheel thread:

    Does anyone with 18" wheels notice that it changed how the gearing felt?

    I was thinking about getting 18s with a dual purpose of slightly lowering the final drive ratio. Is it at all noticeable?

  19. Posted · Report reply

    Nobody going to mention the Cayman S? 

    I think in terms of value for money then getting a cheapish 2nd hand 86 then going turbo/SC - you'll be as fast as the golf R, but in a better driving, better looking RWD car.

    I went through a phase of considering selling my supercharged 86, but the cars that would offer a significant improvement  were much much more money (exige, new Cayman S or Cayman R, M235i).

    The TTRS is good bhp vs ££, but I'm told not much of a drivers car.

  25. Posted · Report reply

    On 24/03/2017 at 10:08 AM, Ade said:

    Top: It depends on tyres. On V105s i'd argue that not much, but it feels nicer with a higher roll stiffness. With soft semi slicks you'll probably gain quite a bit as the stock suspention will be heavily on the bump rubbers. 

    Middle: You should look at the RS*S i-sport motospec. These are well known to be very comfortable and capable and monotube.

    http://www.rs-r.com/coilovers/

    http://www.rs-r.com/product/scion-fr-ssubaru-brz-sports-i-coilovers-2012/

    Bottom: Golf R is rapid with the REVO it can be around 370hp 0-60 3.7s. Power to weight of the golf R is ~200hp/ton. Yours 220hp/ton.....Revo ~250hp/ton

     

     

    Thanks for that Ade. Those coilovers look delightful but it seems like the cost doesn't quite justify the gains on track that id get on my set up. Looks like the most cost effective way of improving the cornering on track will be grippier tyres followed by camber adjustment mods.

    If I were to get coilovers though, I'd be looking for monotube like these.

×