surrey86

You'll be needing a suspension specialist to rebuild them, the "Track time" group on facebook has a list of recommended companies, Cornering Force in Harrogate is one of them. I'd jack the car up and start having a look if you can see evidence of oil leakage on the bodies.

I wouldn't bother with braided lines unless getting them with a BBK. I've never seen much difference with them, even on motorcycles. I think people fit them because they are cheap, have to rebleed the brakes while doing it and then attribute the improvement of freshly bled fluid to the braided lines. Plus I also had a 2 year old braided line pop on me at my last MOT, from my googling it's not a rare incident. They don't last like OEM lines.

I gave mine a fairly "decent" run in. The UK seller let on in one of the forums he swaps his out on the road due to the noise, so I don't think it's an isolated problem. Probably differs depending on your local driving habits.

When I had XP8's in the front calipers they worked well on track but noise on the road was horrific. It's not a nice squeal either, sounds like something is broken. If you didn't like the minor little squeal you get on OEM pads, well these are about x 10 of that.

The rear pads aren't that important. I've found EBC yellowstuff fine there befpre, currently use DS2500 and still no problems, OEM would probably be fine tbh. "Fast road" pads are fine for the rears. If you put anything hardcore in the rears they'll make a hell of a racket in normal road use. Also going to add, Bedford GT is very hard on brakes compared to most UK circuits.

I would have hoped they had restocked by now, the last reply was February 2018

Is there now a PS4S available in 225/40/18 because of this?

If it has been mapped properly on 99 it will knock on 97, the car will retard the ignition advance and produce less power.

I'm guessing the cats are worth money, given the amount that are being stolen from easy accessible Jazz & Prius at the moment.

That's awful, sorry to hear they have been so poor in resolving this.

Exactly, a courtesy or hire car burning money by the day will focus their minds.

Most of those pads will likely be noisier than your current ones. As said, you are wasting your money but sometimes you've got to find out I suppose.

At 2500 miles after the recall I'd be taking that straight to Toyota, they've very likely botched it.

how many miles since the recall?

You do get some negative camber by dropping the car. If you're just getting lowering springs you can usually get over a degree of negative camber at the front by using camber bolts, cost around £20-25 iirc new. The rear is more of an issue, you will get more negative camber at the rear with lowering springs but its not desirable. The only way to adjust that is aftermarket adjustable trailing arms. I think it's probably ok as long as you don't drop too much.

Option 2 is ideal, you'll have no issues with that and will look great. 18's look a lot better on this car.

I like the Rays steel nuts. Heavier than alloy, and mine have got a little corrosion on them now after a couple years, but you don't need to have awkward conversations with every garage asking them not to use an impact on your alloy nuts.

I don't know if they have become louder over the years but the Cobra non-res I heard was really loud, you could hear the car coming well before you could see it.

I stole an idea from the FT86 forums of using Porsche GT3 brake cooling ducts on our cars. It's a very cheap way of getting extra brake cooling and has been proven to lower temperatures. The oem Porsche parts are being sold for £25 on ebay - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/201600599082 There is a bit of modification needed, and I'd say about 4 fairly beefy tie wraps per side to make them a secure fit. Control arm before: The duct as it arrives: -Cut along the green lines with a sharp stanley knife, -Drill the holes marked with green circles -Attach to the control arm with tie-wraps at marked points Pic of it attached (minus two tie-wraps on the middle loops I added later) Frontal profile:

AD08R's have very stiff sidewalls that are a lot stiffer than even a PS4 XL. I think if you went to a normal XL tyre you'd notice a difference.

Clunk could be suspension preload or perhaps clearance issues with drop links.

Tbh normally I'd have thought leaving the car modified would make it harder to sell on.

I found there was a fair bit of faff involved to get the correct amount of shims with the Reyland AP kit. If I remember correctly I grinded the casting a little on the carrier aswell, but I'm not sure that was totally necessary. I haven't noticed a humming noise.

I'd suggest putting your phone on video recording then lowering it down the front of the engine. You should be able to see on the video how close the manifold primaries are to the undertray. (obviously do it with engine off 😂).

The manifold design is a little raspy but its not that bad.