Varelco
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Content Count
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Posts posted by Varelco
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55 minutes ago, Notaricer said:
I give up
. You’re not arguing a point. It’s like you’re making a rebuttal but not actually arguing any point; just giving me a 101 on race setups. Please leave the thread so that people don’t have to navigate through the waves of nonsense.
It's ok you will get used to him. Does it to every thread.
ThatGuyThere, Notaricer and Lmc reacted to this -
1 hour ago, Daninplymouth said:Just to add for the cost and effort I’d have just fitted the ksports.
They maybe on the cheap end of a bbk but just because you bought a brembo caliper off a production car doesn’t make it any better. I’d hazard a guess at most the production stuff is of a poorer quality as it is built down to a price. Maybe if you’d have sourced from a broken Ferrari or something then that’d be different.
Quite the opposite. Factory fitted equipment is going to be under stricter design criteria, regulation and scrutinsation than the aftermarket industry. You are never going to see K sports fitted to a car out of the factory. I fully expect OEM brembos to outlast your BBK.
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Fair enough. Let's hope it all works out ok. Nothing wrong with having more options!
Notaricer reacted to this -
I can't help but think your efforts are a little wasted. You can buy a 4 pot brembo BBK in the UK from Godspeed at £999. It sounds identical to what you are doing.
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Just the first time, all subsequent times its quiet.
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I don't think I've ever read or heard an issue for the Auto it's only ever been manuals. Then again manuals probably heavily outweigh autos sold.
20 hours ago, Shad said:I have a manual. I love manuals, love changing gear, rev matching, heal & toe, all that good stuff. Never owned an automatic car in my life.
But as manual transmission experiences go, the FT86 is nothing to write home about. The 2nd gear selection issue when cold is a bit ridiculous, and the clutch pedal feel is very poor. I will seriously consider the auto if I ever buy a different one.
With that said, changing to Motal 300 or Redline MTL can help with selection issues, and a different clutch pedal spring can help there too.
Shad get yourself MTEC gearbox springs, won't help crunchy 2nd if you suffer from it but it makes the gear shift feel lovely.
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Straight groove discs fellas. Glad its not just me.
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Hi All,
I've recently had the 330mm AP Racing BBK fitted by Abbey Motorsports, I've noticed in reverse I get a loud clunk whenever I apply the brakes, is this normal? I've checked the anti rattle clip and its installed correctly but it does definitely sound like the backing plates of the pads moving.
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Does anybody run AST 5100s on their twins? I can't imagine there are many but if so what spring rates did you go for and why? What are they like in terms of performance (road, track, ride comfort) and how are they holding up?
Cheers
Matt
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17 hours ago, nerdstrike said:Excellent documentation and solutions. Top quality rattle-hunting.
Now if only I could deal with a seemingly loose passenger seat position lever that makes a boing noise over certain bumps! I've dealt with the clicky parcel shelf and added some damping for road noise and don't have many rattles, but my two enemies are the boingy seat lever and driver seatbelt clasp that creaks like crazy in summer when I'm lightly dressed.
Do we have the same car? Exactly the 2 rattles that drive me mad, although my glovebox rattles and so does the gear lever. I'm driving a 13 year old Micra at the minute and it genuinely rattles less than my car.
I find when you are rattling hunting this works quite well (especially if you have a subwoofer). Download a frequency generator app on your phone then connect to your headunit with bluetooth, run the frequency app and play specific frequencies through your speakers, I've found that as you scroll down through the frequency range 400Hz and lower, you trigger all sorts of rattles to start, then you can hunt them down at your leisure rather than trying to figure it out whilst driving.
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I wouldn't go for +25 unless your car is lowered with a bit of camber, otherwise it will look like a monster truck. I can't imagine the face design will be any different between the ET35 and ET25 anyway. They are quite popular so there will be lots of photos on google.
Jay Bamrah reacted to this -
The Konig Oversteer looks similar but they are still over £1000.
Best of writing a list of imitation brands like Bola, JR and Rota then going through their catalogue of wheels.
Jay Bamrah reacted to this -
I can't get my head around the looks, to me the design looks older than the outgoing model and the proportions don't look right. The ride height with those 18s is awful, its jacked up, the bonnet line looks higher, the squarer headlights and frumpy boot pushes the whole car up, its gone from a sports car to a coupe (think 2 series, c class). That dashboard looks fit for a 4x4 or a pickup. I don't think there is any threat of me moving my GT86 along
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49 minutes ago, BRZ-123 said:That's an interesting observation. You reckon that's to run longer track sessions
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Not with those brakes. Look the same as the outgoing model. The extra weight and power will quickly show their weakness.
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Looks great. Enjoy the updates on your BRZ. What APC did you use on your steering wheel? I do mine often but it never looks perfect. I use BH surfex diluted 1:100.
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+1 To Sam's comment. Non spoilered boot lids are very rare and sought after. So wouldn't be surprised if someone is very keen to swap.
Joolz and tomlee80 reacted to this -
14 hours ago, Carcar said:Found one! An orange aero version is coming next week! Can't wait!
Thats a rare combo! Good luck, hope its a good one.
Carcar reacted to this -
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Ah ok, I see your predicament. Nice choice of wheels by the way.
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What you need is hubcentric bolt on spacers. I also use Eibach spacers, using their 'system 4' setup. The spacer bolts directly to your hub with studs being pressed into the spacer which you bolt the wheel to. You will only need to replace wheel studs for extended ones for slip on type spacers, or anything below 15mm (as there isn't enough material to make the spacer strong enough to have its own studs).
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Invidia Q300 is the quiestest aftermarket exhaust for this car. Pretty much every aftermarket exhaust is made from 304 stainless, its a common grade stainless so its pretty cheap but it still rusts, just not as quickly.
By exhaust cutout do you mean you want a valved exhaust? To switch between quiet and loud? Its possible but it will be expensive and nobody has done it.
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On 2/21/2021 at 5:34 PM, Kodename47 said:Have you seen how much some are up for sale for?....
Reminds of the last Focus RS and when the Mustang was introduced, they were demanding silly money.
There is no doubt Toyota absolutely nailed it with this car.
On 1/23/2021 at 8:53 AM, Lauren said:I have also received information from trusted sources that the stock bottom end will take 500bhp and been advised that I'm barely tickling it at 305bhp. This is good news.
It will be the gearbox that will be the limitation, that will lunch itself way before the engine does by the sounds of it.
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On 3/21/2021 at 9:02 PM, matrixprotein said:Can you shut up and stop speaking nonsense
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Chill my friend.
Educate him, don't bash him, for he does not know what he speaks.
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That is lovely, good choice on going for a GTS mind you black is brave colour for someone who likes their paint in good nick.
AP BBK Clunk in reverse
in Mechanical
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No I've got a traditional 2 piece setup. Looks as if its just a trait by the sounds of it!