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Varelco

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Posts posted by Varelco

  1. Posted · Report reply

    6 hours ago, Lauren said:

     

    Can't see any other way than it being written off with the engine gone and needing a lock set. We did get Richard at RRG to price up for a new engine and lock set, which came in at £15K and even with an expected discount would not be viable. 

    There is a possibility that Mark will buy it back from insurance but it will depend on what they pay out and how much they want for a buy back. In that event it will likely be broken for parts. :(

     

    It wouldn't be worth putting a brand new engine as the costs are always ridiculous, a second hand engine is definitely viable. I cannot see how the sums wouldn't add up, even if you bought it back and get it done outside of the insurance.

     

    So pleased you got it back though, my worst fear would be finding it burnt out somewhere. Are Police forensics being done?

  2. Posted · Report reply

    Nice, It looks like they've done their research. I hope they have sorted the issues with the gearstick rattles too as thats a major bugbear in my car.

     

    A GR86 is almost certainly going to be my next car now, after being underwhelmed by its intended replacement (981 Cayman), the more I look at it the more I like it.

    BRZ-123 reacted to this

  4. Posted · Report reply

    On 9/29/2021 at 7:56 AM, ToothlessSimpleton said:

    Wonder if people are gonna start doing GR -> GT body swaps or, engine swapping the 2.0 for 2.4 instead (though at that point wouldn't you LS swap instead)...

    I still can't get the Cayman S knockoff look out of my eyes with the GR - I have an unreasonable dislike for those Porsches for some reason I DON'T KNOW WHY. 

    It will happen but it will be rare as FA24s won't be in abundance or cheap.

     

    If this car is going to be priced around £30k then that is going to be serious value for money, I would have one for that price.

    I wonder how much the new engine is being pushed, is it coincidental that the 250NM rated max torque also happens to be tge design limit of the Aisin gearbox.

  7. Posted · Report reply

    The constant noise isn't crickets its your direct injectors, they are noisy by design.

    The clunk is the clutch of your A/C engaging as others has mentioned, but the brief rattle once it kicks in is unusual, although its something i wouldn't be concerned about.

    Jay Bamrah reacted to this

  9. Posted · Report reply

    17 hours ago, ThatGuyThere said:

    Neither of those are required!

    Whilst not mandatory, definitely recommended.

    I have camber bolts and LCAs on lowering springs and I'm glad I did. I could offset the increased camber on the rear caused by lowering it whilst dialling in some at the front. The balance is lovely. 

  11. Posted · Report reply

    Why would you attempt to fit springs yourself but not coilovers? Its exactly the same scope of work.

    You haven't mentioned what your intentions are, are you lowering for looks? Improved performance? Better ride quality? 

    Those pro street coilovers look suspiciously like rebranded Bilsteins.

  12. Posted · Report reply

    As soon as you mentioned the word 'track' I'd use 5W-30 personally, the thinner grade is purely used to reduce frictional losses and make it more efficient that's it. The thicker grade will help with oil pressures/film strength on track once it gets hot. I only use 5w-30 in my car. 

     

  13. Posted · Report reply

    Because the conrods lack strength to take any more torque. The high compression ratio restricts the amount of boost pressure you can run. You aren't comparing apples to apples. 

    If you take the factory designed turbocharged FA20 then the figures are more comparable. the JDM FA20DIT is rated to 400NM.

    BRZ-123 reacted to this

  15. Posted · Report reply

    I'm almost certain its the pads, the clunk sounds like the backing plates moving, nothing is translated through to the car, its just a light noise, they are the only moving part. I can't see how the discs would move, mine aren't floating just regular 2 piece, so they are bolted together, if they are moving then something is very wrong.

    If I was to hazard a guess I'd say the backing plates are slightly undersized in the caliper to allow expansion when they get hot, this would prevent them getting seized in the caliper. 

  16. Posted · Report reply

    1 hour ago, Luke said:

    I get that it could be a trait but it’s worth figuring out what is moving around to cause the clunk. 
    How are you finding the feel of the AP compared to the oem brakes?

    Yeah I was intending to take a look actually, just to double check everything is still tight and as it should be.

    Pedal feel is much like stock day to day, no issues with modulation, the type of pad is going to make the most noticeable difference if anything, if I really stamp on the brakes I notice how much more stopping power have compared to the stock setup, the nose really dives. I've been really pleased with the Ferodo DS2500s, I was a little sceptical running that pad, they have good road manners, no noise issues, the feel and cold bite is pretty much how the stock setup felt, yet they have alot more capability when it comes to stressing them on track.

  17. Posted · Report reply

    A change in direction means my supercharger kit is up for sale. This is a rare opportunity to buy this amazing piece of kit. It was originally off a fellow enthusiasts car and has sat in my shed since March.

    The kit is approximately 2 years old and has covered 12,000 miles. It contains all components of the Stage 2 kit. (you will require an ECUtek license and
    Cosworth tune to complete)

    I would like what I paid for it: £3575.
    The price is fair therefore is non negotiable.
    Collection preferred but delivery can be arranged for an additional cost.
    Located in Sittingbourne Kent.

    ---More images to follow---

    IMG-20210322-WA0001.jpg

    sxocpaul reacted to this

  20. Posted · Report reply

    I wouldn't go for a 215 on an 8j, go for a 225, they will be cheaper and look better too. You won't lose any of the playfulness of the car it doesn't suddenly become a grip monster. That was my concern too. My setup is 18x7.5j ET33 front and 18x7.5j ET 28 rear with 225/40/18 V105s, overall mechanical grip is up but not as much as you think, and the dynamics of the car is the same, it stays more consistent across various conditions than the Primacys but it will still move around in greasy conditions, just the limit is higher which is reassuring when it comes to braking.

  21. Posted · Report reply

    280bhp seems to be the upper limit for the in tank fuel pump and the clutch (as you found out). Above that those items require changing. Although not mandatory Cosworth recommend changing it with their kit to offer more headroom, especially if the filters aren't fresh. Tuning developments stage 2 which is 300+ also changes the fuel pump. 

     

    280bhp seems to be deemed the safe limit on the twins. Above this you enter rod lottery, upgrades to the clutch and fuelling and running over the gearbox design limit of 250nm.

     

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