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JamesP1991

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Posts posted by JamesP1991

  2. Posted · Report reply

    You aren't Colchester way by any chance are you Joe? Seen your Golf my way a few times as I am only in Weeley. Welcome to the club any way. If you want a ride in a turbo'd 86, give me a nudge and I'll take you for a spin seeing as you are literally just down the road from me! 

  3. Posted · Report reply

    2nd cat delete gives you a lovely rise in tone and because you will be running the stock cat back you won't have any drone. No CEL issues and you free up some flow! 

    A catless manifold is what you want to do if power/noise is your sole aim though, as it frees up a lot of flow and obviously it will become very loud! I haven't run a stock cat back with a catless manifold, but you will have some drone at motorway/cruising speeds after you have it done. 

    A map will be required to optimise the system though and clear all CEL lights due to the 02 sensors going mad! I ran mine unmapped with a catless setup for a few months though and the CEL does no harm to the engine. Just drives you mad if you suffer from OCD :P 

     

    Gringosteve reacted to this

  7. Posted · Report reply

    Turbo blanket for the 20G turbo will be on order next month, I am also contemplating upgrading the actuator and MAF pipe before I up the boost to 10 PSI at the start of next year and reach 300whp, but it is not necessary (just gives me more headroom for bigger numbers).  

     

    post-1091-0-70555700-1441708886_thumb.jp

     

    However guys I need some advice. 

     

    Now the power is all sorted, I need some help in regards to brakes and tyres. Seeing as I have near death experiences any time any precipitation falls on the road, I thought tyres and then brakes would be a good idea to do now, however fun it is. 

     

    My initial thoughts were advan V105's, 225 section which should fit my 17x8's fairly nicely. However are 225's enough running a turbocharged setup? Any other tyres like Conti Sport 5's that are worth a mention? This will be a road car for the rest of the year with the aim of taking it on the track next year once it reaches a point that I am happy with it chassis/brakes/tyres wise. 

     

    In regards to brakes, I was thinking just upgraded pads and new fluid for the time being, as I thought bigger discs would be kind of unnecessary on the road for the time being (can upgrade them later on next year before hitting the track).

     

    Does anyone have any feedback on this thought process, and what pads/fluid and possible discs to go for? 

     

    I keep changing my mind and running only the stock brakes I have no reference point, so any feedback for those who have done the same I would really appreciate it. 

     

    Cheers everyone.

  8. Posted · Report reply

    I can confirm having followed him all the way to Cambridge... this thing is one loud mofo now! Almost made me miss my old sound, until I realised I didn't have to drop it down two gears every time I changed lanes ;)

     

    Joking aside, I can't wait to get a spin in it once the manifold and overpipe are bolted on too with a tune mate :)

  12. Posted · Report reply

    Yep no damage done. In the year and a half I've owned mine I've been through around 1L of coolant. First time mine was so low nothing was showing in the overflow tank when cold, so just been keeping it topped up since. When cold it should sit between low and halfway, and then when the engine gets hot the coolant expands. I always find it best to check when cold.

    As long as you have coolant running in the system the engine will not overheat. Just because the overflow tank is low doesn't mean there isn't enough coolant in the system. But it's good to keep it topped up nevertheless. You only have to worry when the tank is bone dry and your temp gauge goes sky high! As that means there isn't enough circulating actually through the radiator etc.

    My local dealer in Colchester scoffed when I said our coolant has a knack of just disappearing over time. Apparently in all the cars they've sold they've old had to sell 5 1L bottles of coolant to customers.

    Even with upgraded silicone samco hoses I find coolant does go down over time. I have no leaks and everything is secure so I can only assume it is evaporating. Especially with the added heat of a turbocharger now sitting underneath my bonnet.

    Taken it as a quirk of the car, but at £15 per 1L of Subaru Blue I'm glad it's not too often!

  13. Posted · Report reply

    Yeah only around 80-90kgs which isn't so bad I guess. 

     

    That surprises me though, as when I saw them in the flesh at Goodwood and walked past them I was shocked at how large they are dimensionally. They are physically much bigger than EP3's and FN2's, so that is why I thought the weight would be more, as to me it looked bloated in shape. 

  14. Posted · Report reply

    It's not for me really. I think it looks good from some angles, but awkward from others. Anyone know how heavy they are now??? 

     

    At 30K I would say they are a bad car to buy brand new, but will make a fantastic used purchase in the next 2-3 years on the used market. 

     

    I would walk straight past one in the showroom, go to a used car specialist, pick up a low mileage EP3 and strap on a load of power in the form of a turbo kit for a lot less of the price of the new car. 

     

    I still want to go and test drive the new one though, just to see how it feels :) 

  15. Posted · Report reply

    It's not power that will kill the rods, it's the torque. There are guys in the states running ~350bhp to the wheels without having to take the block apart. If your torque is all low down then don't expect the OEM rods to last.

    Thanks for that Steve, I have seen some big hp cars on stock blocks on the FT86 forum, but thought it just meant they were going to go bang much sooner. At the wheels I am making 200 lbs ft and beyond from 3800rpm onwards, so don't have a clue how close to the mark that is.

    Would be good to hear your input on it too Mike, seeing as that is something you'll have to think about now when pushing your kit on the TD car :)

  16. Posted · Report reply

    That's okay Mike, it's best to do it that way rather than using customers as guinea pigs after all ;)

    Yes that would be great I'll keep my eyes peeled for a date, will there be the potential there on the day for custom mapping too. See if any improvements can be had on my existing map? I already have a programming kit.

    Would be good to hear your opinion on certain aspects of the turbocharging process though like internal stresses and thresholds etc.

    Awesome just chuck me a PM or something then, just want to keep the engine bay temps down as much as possible :)

  18. Posted · Report reply

    Ahh you have got to be kidding me?! A reasonably priced turbo kit in the UK which isn't an AVO?! 

     

    Damn you guys if you had released this just 2 months earlier I would have been in there like swimwear. Had to go to the states for mine in the end :)

     

    Looks awesome though guys.

     

    Nevermind my SBD kit is fine for the time being. What power at the crank do you think it is safe to go up to before forging the bottom end... 330hp? 

     

    I am running around 305 at the crank at the moment between 7-8 psi on an uprated clutch and flywheel and stock fuel system, but want to up that, and would happily choose you guys to custom map her when I get the necessary supporting engine stuff done.. is mapping a kit that isn't yours something you are happy doing? 

     

    Thought it would be wise from now on considering you are fluent in Ecutek :)

  25. Posted · Report reply

    I know, there is a slight wear mark on the steering column on the left hand side of the overpipe so it looks like I will just have to swap to the stock before Japfest 2. 

     

    The stock one has a slight indent in it any way to allow for extra clearance. 

     

    Might have to upgrade the engine mounts too perhaps to stop flex????????

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