Kono
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Posts posted by Kono
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2 hours ago, GravelRash said:I got this once when I was working on the car. It can, perhaps obviously, be triggered by a wire being loose in a connector. In my case it was because I had knocked a airbag wire behind the B-pillar trim.
I don't know the history of your car but maybe someone has had some trim off and one of the connectors isn't quite lined up. This car has a lot of airbags but for the ones I've seen they are mostly easy to get to. I anticipate the most difficult is the steering wheel airbag, because most instructions are for LHD, certainly it look me a little longer than expected to get to that airbag.
In my case I drove for 40 miles with the dashboard permanently displaying SRS failure. This warning was insistent and invasive but didn't hinder the car from driving. I presumed that in the event of an accident the airbags that work would go off.
Depending on your level of mechanical ability I would start with checking ones that might have been disturbed:
- Seats - its located underneath and probably can see with some gymnastics and a torch
- B-Pillar - it's behind the trim which is just clips and could be disturbed if the speakers have been changed
- Steering wheel (if it's been changed)
- The others are in the trim and dashboard and I don't think they would have been easily disturbed
I'm not aware if the diagnostic system on the car is smart enough to determine which one is at fault, much like the tire pressure fault doesn't know which tire is low.
😮 they do have a lot of reasons that they can trigger this but I got to the bottom of my issue:
There was a small box with a single drink can in it on the passenger seat. Apparently if the seat has something too light to be a passenger but too heavy to be nothing it can cause this issue. Also if the seat is damp. After moving the box off the passenger seat the light went off and everything is fine now...2 years of having the car and this is the first time it happened so just for everyone's reference, make sure the air/interior is dry and check nothing is on the passenger seat if you get the message
Thanks for the quick reply though, if the box issue wasn't it I probs would of started down the line you stated checking the connectors first XD
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Hi all,
This morning got in my car and the 'check SRS airbag system' message pops up and cant be cleared. I have no idea what's caused this to come up and nothing has changed on the car since I last drove it last night. Any one experienced this before or know how to fix it? If not what do you guys recommend is the best way to get it fixed.
Don't really fancy going to the main dealership since I know they can charge over £150 just to check wires/sensors and 2K just for a new air bag which I cant exactly afford right now.
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I doubt anyone will get a 86 as cheap as I did...paid 11K in 2019 for a 2018 with only 4.5k miles....
Cat S, but fully repaired and to this date the only issue's I've had is the passenger door needed adjusting because it rubbed a bit on the bottom and the passenger side wheel was slightly buckled but got replaced by the dealer under warranty.
I feel like 86 prices will go up a bit since the new ones are so hideous (personal opinion ofc) and the whole E10 fuel thing will have a lot of older car owners looking for new. My mk2.5 mx5 ran like a bag of spanners on E10 and I cant see many older 'cheap' sports car owners willing to pay for the premium fuel, which is only not E10 for another 5 years, and not able to afford modern sports car prices which seem to start around 30-60k these days.
Jay Bamrah reacted to this -
hold on a sec while i just pick my jaw off the floor......k. OMG this looks so tidy. I love seeing when people put a lot of time and effort (and money) into the small details and this has really paid off. Nice work!
Deacon reacted to this -
Cool vid, i actually learned stuff!
When it comes to alignment and what not I'm always on the side of 'better let a professional do this' because I've never quite understood it and had the space or equipment to do it...also I cant afford to be killing tyres every few 1000 miles 😮. I'm surprised you could stand driving that distance though with alignment this messed up, when I got my 86 it was all out by around 1-1.2 degrees and it was like driving a 4wd with a bust diff, car kept sort of skating side to side at anything over 40mph.
Glad you got it sorted now, hope that's all your steering issues ironed out!👍
Samwise reacted to this -
22 hours ago, Samwise said:it simply has almost no tech at all, it's about as simple as engines come and will easily make well over 400hp without breaking a swea
Yeah that's the massive plus side to the LS, the less tech and fancy stuff the easier it is to identify problems, fix and mod. First car i ever worked on was my brothers 1.3i Austin mini, so simple u could pull the thing apart and have it back together in a evening :D! Also i didn't know that the ali LS where that light! Being able to say you have a 2 door v8 coupe is cool but I think the engine sound alone will tell people without having to say a word.
Also you might of wanted a turbo 86....but why not have a LS turbo'd 86
22 hours ago, Samwise said:Granted this does of course mean that the CoG will be higher but I don't think that will be a massive difference over what say the 2JZ would change it by, as that engine weighs in the whopping range of 250-ish kg, and the problem with the SR20 for me personally is they're not actually amazing engines to make north of 350hp on and much like most nissan engines they like to munch oil pumps.
Only way i could really see any engine matching the CoG would be a straight swap for another subaru engine or a porche one. After owning a kayman S for 2 months, finding out it had a scoring on the section the pistons are and its a common problem Porsche are aware of but did nothing, costing £11,000 to repair, I don't think i'd ever trust them again. As for the SR20 i never understood why anyone would use one instead of a FA20....in a standard s14a its 0-60 is 7 sec, and only does 22 mpg tops. Its old hat and just for the sake of having a common turbo engine, its not worth the downgrade, especially since you can turbo a FA for around 3-5K anyway.
I'm also with you on the side of not being the first, give it a few years and I think at the rate people are destroying LS/RB26 and BMW's are becoming more common and cheap it wont belong before there's a sea of people doing it. Just gotta be patient
22 hours ago, Samwise said:p.s v10's sound better than v12's... in my opinion 😋
THAT'S FIGHTING TALK MR !! 🤣
Samwise reacted to this -
Did you just have that engine lying around? love how you just casually wheel it out like its not biggie haha!
While i get everyone doing LS swaps due to how common they are, I feel like its somewhat of a downgrade (same with people putting 2jz/sr20 ect) because they are older, heavier and less efficient engines. Sure its easier to make them around the 350+bhp mark and parts are super easy to find but the change in COG and difference in fuel consumption and efficiency of the engine itself using old tech always put me off, but if you got the resources there go for it. No matter what engine or turbos etc u got nothing sounds better than a v8 or 12.
I think if I ever end up doing a engine swap i'd be looking at one from the current generations of BMW (B5830) since alot of them on stock internals are now pushing 600bhp no issue, and if using the current Z4 3.0 litre its technically from the toyota family too. And thanks to how common BMW are now specially with every inner city posh boy with no driving skill owning them, sourcing one from a scrap yard isnt too hard.
Samwise reacted to this -
2 hours ago, SimonG68 said:
And the torque dip....
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Proand the Prius wheels and tyres 😓
SimonG68 and Samwise reacted to this -
this rarely happens but the current 86....looks like a newer car than that next one?? The GR looks like someone went ' I like jaguar F types, and austin martins...can we put a F type style kit on the front and AM style back lights?'
I get concepts and the test track versions can change alot (i remember the original GT86 driving round and its weird overly large front grills) but its mostly just bumpers/skirts...shame really, like the supra, Toyota's taken a nice looking car and made a new version that looks like a cheap version of a mid range luxury sport car.
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:O! Riveted on? That's odd. You did a good job on that tho looks tidy. I always panic about having to cut/drill/rivet anything on my cars because I feel like ill mess it up. Lookslike you have plenty of confidence and the skills to back it up tho 😅
I need to adjust the door on mine, its a CAT S i picked up for £11,000 2018 with only 4.5K on the clock. All the work to get it road worthy was already done (it had a passenger side collision) but the passenger door is scraping the paint a bit on the bottom. Taken it to alignment places and they say the body is fine and wheels alignment too. It did have a buckled wheel and bad front baring but nothing that couldn't be fixed for under £250 which the company paid for. After another 5k miles on it some cracks are starting tho show on the filler on the back arch too >.>.
Seeing all your hard work on yours really make me want to get mine in the garage n fix the little issues :D!!
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Car looks absolutely mint, also mad props for actually putting the cost of the build so far. Tired of seeing people putting project builds and going on about it being cheap n easy then never putting the cost just saying its cheap XD
Hope you enjoying the car looks like all the hard works paid off 👍
Tweedbean reacted to this -
On 7/27/2020 at 2:18 PM, choupolo said:“If I used the petrol at the Sainsburys near Salford quays that was 'eco' town fuel, it would get me to there and back once.”
Wow. I’ve been doing Manchester to Blackpool daily, 1 hour without traffic, 53 miles. A full tank of VPower/Tesco 99 consistently lasts me just about 5 journeys one way. I am guilty of pushing the revs a bit though!
Cant say the occasional normal fuel fill up reduced this that much that I’ve noticed. Would have worried about a leak if I used the whole tank in one day!
Not gonna lie, the first 1-2 hours of the trip was just the M602 from Salford to the M6, then the M6 to M53. First 18 miles took longer than the next 37 which would be only like 30-40 min. This was around the time they just started up the whole smart motorway stuff on the M602 and M6/Ring road. And yeah I almost died when i got in the car the next day and saw only 1/2 the tank left coming bk. Tho it was only 1.8 celica, it did roughly the same mileage as my 86 on 99ron, but a little bit less on standard 95.
If your doing MCR to blackpool daily I hope someones helping with that fuel cost 😆 I was spending like £6k a year at my surveying job on fuel and they wouldn't even give me company car because I would 'add to many miles' >.>
Happy with the GT86 at the moment on long trips. V power got me roughly 42mpg over a 500 mile trip, 99ron momentum is about 32-40 depending if its town or motorway driving. I wonder how a supercharger or turbo would change that tho o.o
choupolo reacted to this -
On 7/20/2020 at 10:08 AM, Daninplymouth said:Surely mileage that low would be an issue with the car. Can’t see the brand of petrol having that much of an impact
One would think yeah, however, it wasn't. I live on the wirral and at the time was working in Salford Manchester. A full tank of standard petrol would get me to Manchester and back 3 times. If I used the petrol at the Sainsburys near Salford quays that was 'eco' town fuel, it would get me to there and back once.
At first I thought it was heavy traffic/ a lot of time idling/stop start, since travel time could vary from 1.5 to 4 hours depending on Manc traffic at rush hour, but this happened every time i fuelled up there with that fuel, but as soon as I used fuel from anywhere else it was back to the usual 3 times there and back. This was multiple times over 3 years. It also doesn't appear to be a standard fuel for sainsburys either, since both at Upton and Cheshire oaks, the standard fuel isn't classed as 'eco low emissions' and didn't give me the same issue. What ever garbage quality they where selling in Salford was hardly worth the 20p cheaper and 'low emission' trade off.
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On 7/16/2020 at 10:55 AM, MartinT said:Shell V-Power whenever I can. I do have a Sainsburys closer with super-unleaded and will use it at a push. The car doesn't feel quite as responsive on it, but it's a small thing (mine is supercharged and tuned for Shell). No denying that the Sainsburys fuel is a lot cheaper, though.
Non of the Sainsburys near me (on the wirral we have 3) even have super unleaded. I refuse to ever get fuel at them since they use some low emissions eco petrol as the only option. The stuffs shear garbage and has gave the worst mpg I've ever seen. £46 of it in my 1.8 2005 celica got me 105 motor way miles...that's somewhere around 10 mpg.
I'm yet to try shell on my 86, just been using tesco's 99 ron momentum. Wonder if I would feel more of a difference in a standard one as opposed to your supercharged beast
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13 hours ago, Church said:There is similar problem as with winter or summer tires. Both have different pros & cons and don't do well at not intended use. Track pads have high operating temps and stand well against track braking abuse reliably braking even if rotors are gloving red, but due that high temp range, when they are cold, they brake less (some still more though) when cold and rather then bed in (transfered material from heated pads as layer onto rotors) they scrub off bedded layer in few days .. ending with noise issues/loud squealing like idiot at every traffic light, increased wear of pads & rotors, and many of track pads dust more (like washing wheels every two days more).
Street pads have much lower operating temp range, thus noise issue is rare, as they usually bed in well even with light average driving, they dust less, but one can easily overcook/glaze/crumble them if heavy abused on track.
There are pads in-between, some call "hybrid" use pads .. but they are like all-season tires, jack of all trades, master of none. Somewhat still usable on street, and may take light tracking (like if not paired with very grippy tires, and for reasonably short 10-15min sessions). For example ferodo DS2500. If you plan to visit track, suggest to change also brake fluid to high-boiling-temps one, eg. as budget one motul rbf660, if more money, PMU G-Four 335, Endless RF650, Castrol SRF, Brembo HTC 64T. Higher end/boiling temps fluids are more hygroscopic though, and by absorbing moisture they degrade, with boiling temps dropping from new ("dry") to lower ("wet"), so i guess worth changing/flushing at least once per year.
Best possible choice imho is to have two specialized sets and switch them prior/post trackday. If one has needed wrenches, hydraulic jack, some brake cleaner, brake lube, around 1-2h job. This way one can get pros at intended use, and not suffer from cons for wrong use. For example i switch between ds2500 for street (but have used them before also for light track. Funny that i can get them even cheaper then OE pads) and CSG C1 for track (not suggesting purchase, work very well, but with high cost + shipping + import cost, they run very expensive).
Once I get a new set of wheels i think they will be just for track/ sunnys days and car meets, so i can use the standard ones for winter and everyday run around. At the moment the car came with 2 winter tyres on the front and 2 absolute no brand garbage on the rear (i know its bad thru the fact i can peel the rubber off with my fingers which concerns me o.o). As for the pads and fluid I'm not sure if I could be hooped with the effort of constantly changing them , but i didnt notice that the OE pads are more expensive than the yellow stuff etc pads which made me wonder if they where any good. Yet again thanks for all the advice...getting a small list of things to check out and buy now :D! cheers
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39 minutes ago, Church said:Kono: IF vendor has properly designed their kit to work together with OE, then retaining bias usually is taken care of. I don't know about your mentioned kit if it's designed to work in front-only upgrade or not, only with upgraded rears aswell. I know that Essex front-only sprint and endurance AP BBKs are made to work with OE rears to keep upgrade costs reasonable. There are different params that affect resulting brake torque. Piston area, pad area & shape, pad distance from rotating centre (or in other words rotor diameter) for example. Caliper bracket is just that, adapter to enable physically mount/connect specific car caliper on suspension of specific car.
Problem with shifting bias can usually go two ways, depending on bias change direction. In one way you may get extra instability under heavy braking, other way - longer braking distances, due one end underbraked (due other locking much sooner). Yes, car will stop, brakes will work, that might be considered acceptable for someone daily driving only (forgetting that there might be emergency braking for crash avoidance on public roads too) .. but work worse. If proper brake vendors for native for car usually try to retain bias change within eg. 2%, many of retrofits from other cars with different weight distribution, different suspension design, sometimes staggered OE tire sizing, possibly different master piston bias ratio in many cases probably will change resulting braking bias at wheels, past optimum ratio. In rare cases it happens that retrofit brakes from other cars really are same as from kits for other cars (at least partially, from one end) (for example, as our cars front calipers are from wrx (rears from legacy gt IIRC), then IIRC willwood 4-pot fronts only might be good choice).
So to summarize, even if retrofit is cheapest way to get good looking branded brakes on car .. even paying less to make worse seems wrong. Cheap calipers from some random car at breaker-yard to be fitted on random different car without doing lot of homework, or accompanying mods to "fix" .. better not.
See this is the kind of posts I love coming to the forums for. Genuinely learning stuff and that's good
I have always been a bit suspicious about uprating just the front breaks and see alot of 'big caliper' upgrades for the front only..at like around the £1500 mark, but notice that full all around upgrades by decent motorsport companies usually sit around 4-5K which is a huge difference considering usually back breaks are smaller.
The 12 Pot calipers we got for my friends R33 where from some kind of 911 if i remember right and he took the back calipers too, and its apparently quite a common swap over for that particular skyline (maybe they shared same calipers for some kind of special edition or upgrade? Not sure). With what you guys are saying I'm starting to wonder about it, although the R33 is 750bhp he uses it strictly just for show so he could be using it as you say 'good looking brakes'.
50 minutes ago, will300 said:No, a properly specced BBK with the correct pistons diameters will have no affect on brake bias. There are multiple BBK that can bolt straight up to our hubs, a common cheap upgrade for the platform is to fit the front Brembo's from the Subaru Impreza STi, however due to the piston size within this specific caliper the brake ratio (front to rear) moves fowards by about 7% (i.e. in simple terrms, the car will nose dive more under heavy braking). However when Toyota/Subaru decide to offer the new blue edition 86 with a performance back, which has Brembo's as standard. These are the same calipers as the STi Brembo's however the pistons are smaller so they produce a similar brake ratio to the standard car. In a similar context when AP specced the calipers for our car they took into consideration the brake bias and increased disc sized and worked out the correct piston size needed.
Stock brakes with a decent set of pads is perfectly fine for daily and spirited driving, it's only when you start doing track days do you notice their shortcomings, that is unless you decide to spend ££££'s on a set of proper race pads.
That's really informative thanks :D! Interesting to know that making the piston smaller helped alter the dip so much....
Also on the topic of upgrading pads for both daily and light track use, any recommendation? I have no intention of changing the calipers any time soon and have no issue with the current breaks but its yet to see a track. Same question for tires on the stock wheels, everyone just seems to say Piolet sport 4's 😕
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5 minutes ago, Church said:Cheapest, yes. And wrong one to do, with high chance to make brakes worse then they were due shifting brake bias. Making something as important as brakes worse just for sake of looks because money is short seems wrong. It can be fixed/workarounded via eg. installing biasing valve, or trying to select staggered pads with different friction, but former will rise budget back, and later still needs lot of extra testing and those several different pads available in first place. Brakes are so not just about custom bracket to enable mounting on different car, at least done properly, and retrofit done properly is not cheaper.
Aren't you causing brake bia's by changing only the fronts to say AP racing ones in the first place. Obvious a huge upgrade to something like a 12 pot set up requires a lot of extra work and I wouldn't recommend it (it requires huge wheels, unneeded extra weight etc), but there are better and smaller set up's from other cars that are similar to what you would be doing by getting a brake kit. Most kits now days are universal and the mounting gear is the only difference between specific car set ups. The difference between AP racings GT86 6 pot kit and a evo X 's kit is literally just the mounting bracket. The pads/disk and caliburs are all generic brand parts so you create a braking bias doing just the fronts in the same way you would putting a set of brembo's of a similar size from another car onto a 86.
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18 hours ago, will300 said:Unfortunately it sounds like whatever you do, your going to have issues with it getting dirty fairly quickly. However you can get a ceramic coating applied to the car and that'll make cleaning it alot easier and stop and contamination from sticking to the paint. A ceramic coating should last 5 years, so for a cost vs durability comparison they work out very well, it's just the inital expenditure is quite high.
Bear in mind a proper ceramic coating will need to be professionally applied by a detailer, some you can apply yourself however these don't have the same durability. Also avoid these spray on coating as they don't have anywhere near the durability that a proper coating has.
Here are a couple of products to consider:
G-Techniq Crystal Serum Ultra
Gyeon Q2 Mohs+
Nanolex Si3D MAX
Based on your location check out APM Customs (https://www.apmcustoms.co.uk/) as they are one of the North Wests best detailers.
Hmm never thought about a ceramic coat. I'm not the most confident person in applying stuff to paint so i think i would be best leaving it to a professional. Also damn dude that place is like only a 20 min drive away cheers! I'll give them a call and see what they can do and the prices.
19 hours ago, Mike said:I wouldn't necessarily say avoid the spray on ones, unless it's bit of effort to do them. For example, the auto finesse one is spray on, pressure wash off which takes a few minutes to do the whole car so just do it every other wash. Downside I've found (and I guess a proper coating would have this) is that you easily end up with spots when it rains...
Even my normal garden hose leaves drop marks on the car if i don't wipe it down , not really notices with rain tho :O! thanks for the heads up!
18 hours ago, sam534 said:A garage is the only way mine keeps clean
Sent from my COL-L29 using Tapatalk
That's my eventual plan...I did have a double garage till I put a work bench in it...but its currently occupied by a striped down evo5 and its engine all over the place. Hopefully by winter i'll have the room tho. Doesn't really help with the dust at work tho
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14 hours ago, Darth Raknoor said:Will definitely look into those, thanks. 🙂. Nice wheels by the way, really hope when this virus is sorted I get to meet up with people from here at japfest or an other event and see all your 86's/BRZ's.
Yeah! I'm pretty new here too and yet to meet anyone else with a 86 (except the lovely old lady who lives near me with one her son bought her) so cant wait to get out there and see some of y'all. Aside from the odd anglesea and oulton park track day mostly just been to local meets in the north west. Biggest events I've been to have been the Jap show and Mopar at Santa pod. I'm honestly kind of put off a lot of car shows/events based around Jap cars because you always get a like 20% actual jap car turn up and about 200 astras and focus ST's with big bean cans turning up...
15 hours ago, Lauren said:Seriously go with the Reyland AP 4 pot kit with their discs and save some money over the AP discs. It's more than up to the job whatever you throw at it. Mine fit under my 17x8 ET38 TE37's, with loads of clearance.
If you know any good fabricators the cheapest way to get good caliper upgrades is just going to scrapyards and finding wrote off mercs and porches (which for some reason in Liverpool seem to be in abundance). Got a 12 pot set of brembo off a AMG for about £400 for my friends R33 and just had a custom mounting bracket made up. I get replacing the pads and discs eventually gets expensive but for the initial saving it was great
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Hey ladies and gentlefriends,
So after owning silver and white cars pretty much most of my adult life, I finally get to look out my window a shiny black 86. Or atleast it is for 2-3 days a week after cleaning.
I live about 100 metres from the beach, so if there is wind i get a lovely coat of sand stuck to it, if the seas rough, i get a free salt layer and worst of all i work near a cement factory and skip wagon recycling centre.. If my cars not being assailed by nature and seagulls arses, then its all the dust from where its parked during work hours. How on earth does anyone keep black cars...black!?
I get unless i cover the car it's always going to get dust/salt/sand on it but is there anything i can do/put on the car, so I can maybe just jet wash/ hose off the stuff without having to fully rewash the whole car every few days, without it looking all streaky and dull?
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2 hours ago, Darth Raknoor said:Awesome site, thank you. Those wheels do look very nice. Just need to find out if the AP caliper kit will fit behind the S1R's. Not getting the AP's immediately but I want to future proof the wheels so to speak. I knew this would happen as soon as I started looking at the 86....so many ideas on how I want to mod it. lol
I think as long as your going for 18's there shouldn't really be a issue. Ap's own site states they are designed for 18" wheels (provided your going for the 6 pot). Not sure about how the ET or width would effect it but if its only a 7.5" you could always get some extra clearance with spacers ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Darth Raknoor reacted to this -
20 hours ago, Adamd said:That's the one. Although, the crash on the first day only bent a tie-rod and was swiftly repaired within an hour - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=obUnEqsTmLg
Car was at Goodwood last year, so not sure it's a write-off unless it's been in last few months....
Disagree about "poor fit" also - the engineering that went into it was extensive and well done - http://www.speedhunters.com/2016/11/ferrari-engined-toyota-gt86/
don't get me wrong the engineering was awesome, i just mean the engine inst exactly a good fit since it doesn't fit within the cars usual parameters. Same way some turbo conversions aren't good fits because you have to cut away at the frame, battery trays etc, to fit pipes in.
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On 7/14/2020 at 11:39 AM, Darth Raknoor said:Awesome, thank you. Sits just right on that fitment. Hopefully I can post up some pics when I get the new wheels.
Again, thank you to everyone who's helped me with this. 🙂
Don't know why no one has recommended this so far but this is by far the best tool I've ever seen to help explain ET, size etc. Pretty accurate too!
http://ft86motorsports.com/wheelitfit/
Just bang in what you want and see what it looks like compared to the standard set up.
Also nice choice of wheels
I'm looking into getting some DR10 work wheels 18x8.5 et32. Gunna be super close and might need a bit of adjustment but they look so sweet. The most unspoken thing I notice, since everyone points out 'poking out', no one seems to mention if you have too wide wheels with a high ET your wheels will catch your suspension. A friend of mine had a insane amount of jap wheels lying round and we where trying some on my car, he had some green D9R 18 x 10.5 et 48 and they couldn't even touch the studs because they hit the shockies about 2 inches before the start of the thread >.<
Darth Raknoor reacted to this -
On 7/7/2020 at 10:11 AM, Adamd said:Seen the one with a V8 Ferrari engine?
The one sponsored by Donut media? That on the first official shoot day they broke the front wheel off...that unfortunately is also a write off now :(. The engine was a poor fit and more done for the publicity of it. i mean they had to cut out the bonnet and have the engine poking out.
Andy's Club Series GT86
in Projects & Builds
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Damn dude you made a really nice job of this! Looks proper tidy
cant wait to see where else you go with this!
Even the interior colour mods make a world of difference, I'm hoping I get some time soon to do something similar to mine. Not a fan of the stock silver plastic look.