Captain Duff

That's interesting. It indicates that the designers were not daft using the Primacy's over something with more sporty grip (e.g., the Pilot Sport 3 if they were sticking with the same tyre size and Michelin). I wonder if we will start to see more of those with NA engines who have switched to something grippier start to move back to a more 'fun' tyre like the OEM Primacy's over time?

Weren't you using Yoko 105s on these last summer Lauren, how come you're back to Primacy's, or am I confused?!

Not just for Supra fans, the pictures on the first page of this thread from DW took my breath away, absolutely stunning result and a now amazing looking car: http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=353589

Well I was thinking of swapping to different summer tyres this year from the original Primacy's (6-7k miles on them), and as I've regularly diagonally swapped they have 6mm of tread all round (with no damage), so this may speed up my decision on getting something else and if that sounds what you're after - when would you need them by Alec?

That's a useful analysis, thanks Lauren. As you say, genuinely lightweight wheels tend to cost a lot of money, and when you look at a lot of the after-market wheels quite a few people have switched to from the OEM's (Rota's seem very popular) they often weigh as much if not more than the OEM rims (which are actually not a bad weight for OEMs). I'm also guessing there is actually not much around that is as light as 7.4kg for 17x8 sizes?

Giving another bump for this as it is just getting better and better - have a look at the rear custom lights he has just fitted: http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?p=4845047&posted=1#post4845047

All modern car paint is relatively soft compared to the stuff they used years ago (following the switch to water based paint and the banning of lead etc.). However, it would appear that the lacquer coatings used on top that protect the soft paint (from scratching and fading) themselves vary between manufacturers in terms of hardness, and both Toyota and Subaru have a reputation for it being on the soft end of the scale (see table at bottom of this article - http://www.theultimatefinish.co.uk/car-care-blog/detailing/paint/ ). Wrapping everything in clear plastic wrap can have its own issues and problems. But other than that there really isn't much you can do (and we all seem to have roof chips, no doubt to do with the aerodynamics of the body shape), although if you do enjoy waxing your car (and if I have time, and weather permitting, I do) then 3, 4 or more layers of a paste wax will do no harm at all in terms of protection, or in helping things shine too of course

I really didn't enjoy low profile tyres (which I assume is what stretching does) on my last car. Apart from the kerbing issue and the poorer ride comfort, it was the terrible state of our pot-holed roads that really did the damage (literally - two cracked alloys and numerous flat spots in the rims). These days I like a bit more 'cushion'

I wonder if this is the issue for all those with 'cold' 1st/2nd gear problems (thankfully I'm not one of them)? If it is then it does make you wonder why Toyota and Subaru themselves don't recommend to dealers to check this as a potential remedy?

Love the seats and the wheels, still not a fan of the big wing, The points about ride quality were interesting in relation to the wheels given that it tends to get worse with larger wheels. Not sure about the Blitz filter if only because it doesn't fit with the cold air scoop and so will end up pulling in a lot of hot engine bay air on a long or hard drive which in theory will worsen performance, but I'd love to hear how it sounds

I've tried a lot of different cleaners, some a lot better than others (I currently like armorall glass cleaner), but while on the outside glass a twice a year proper prep, polish and sealant routine is my best tip for clean windows. on the inside (and where you need to be gentle on the rear heating element etc.), I've found the biggest improvement came when I discovered that specific glass cleaning microfibres were indeed a huge improvement on 'normal' microfibre cloths (for wax buffing and the like) for streak-free windows. Just getting something like this should mean immediate better results when using the same cleaner - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Kent-Car-Care-40-x-40cm-Microfibre-Glass-Cloth-Soft-Gentle-No-Scratches-Q6900-/111613233427?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item19fcaac913

Looking at the long-range forecast and the current sunshine I'm thinking of swapping my winters back to summers this weekend - anyone else doing the same or have you done it already!

Yes, the flexible lined plastic thing is the same on both sides, but the moulding next to and just under the lip of the bonnet it is different (which I think the OP was meaning) - as I said I think it is just to do with making room for the wiper arm on the drivers side and then hiding the cutaway with an extra insert. In other words there is no missing pieces anywhere

My question would be why are you doing this, because you like diy maintenance or to save a few quid? You do also need to have one eye on warranty and resale value issues. Yes, legally a manufacturer cannot insist on main dealer servicing to honour a warranty up to 3 years, but it can potentially be an issue for extended periods like our 5 year one. The key issue is to also use the specified parts as listed in the schedule (although I realise the first service in particular is not much more than an oil and filter change), but if you go 100% diy you will have to keep a lot of evidence to satisfy this, receipts for the right oil and the like. And resale value - well many people look for main dealer stamps, and worry if they are not there (sometimes for good reason). Of course many of the potential buyers/owners for our car will value respected indy garage stamps more - but if you haven't got either then you will almost certainly wipe far more off the resale or trade in value of your car then you will save on the original service costs. So before you definitely go diy look at the other options out there. Those of us in the NW are lucky to be able to use RRG Macc of course which is the best of both worlds in my view (indy levels of enthusiasm for the car, value for money costs, happy to fit mods and still get a main dealer stamp at the end), but what are the possibilities in your own neck of the woods?

Yes, it is different on each side, but isn't it just an issue that the drivers side is a slightly different shape of moulding to allow clearance for the wiper arm when using wipers, or have I misunderstood the question/issue?

Labour to BAN 'stealth' speed cameras: http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-2958286/Labour-BAN-stealth-speed-cameras-motorways-forcing-painted-bright-yellow-drivers-them.html

http://www.lep.co.uk/news/motorist-takes-car-in-for-repair-and-camera-catches-mechanic-speeding-in-it-at-118mph-1-7106282

I'm sure Richard can confirm, but the revised Toyota map introduced in the UK in early 2013 was to correct the rough idle/stall issues of the early cars, and anyone who has had a main dealer service and is not been remapped (Ecutek etc,) should have had it installed even if they have an early pre-2013 car. It should not have affected power, although there may be some link here to the US revised map (that we didn't get) that was around (I think) some risks when changing gear at very high revs that put strain on the piston seals. In fact the unchanged power is surely confirmed by the identical official performance figures from 2012 to 2015 models? The one I'm not at all sure about is the story that Subaru released their own revised map that slightly increased horses (although not enough that you'd probably notice).

paid

Yes! Worst (or should that be best?!) I've ever known for dry non-icy roads when driving to meetings today around Preston/Blackpool/Blackburn. Lots of wheel spin when moving off from junctions/lights (with traction control on) and very tail happy around corners (smacked rear near side wheel into a kerb when not meaning to, will have a look at the likely rim scuff tomorrow). Good fun in many ways (other then the likely rim scuff) but I can only assume that it's the result of lots of recent gritting over the past week but no rain to wash it away so the road surfaces are very loose?

No, £20,500 for the original/standard with red paint and cloth seats, although it doesn't help my depreciation of course

Thanks Rob, and yes these are great quality - generous sizing for the fat boys amongst us too 1. Rob275 - 1xMedium-Grey, 1xMedium-Red 2. Minion - 1x Medium-Red 3. Captain Duff - 1 x XXL Red, 1 x XXL Black

talking of new 86's I happened to have a look on drive the deal last night to get an idea of current best dealer discounts and realised you can get a new one for a tad over £20k. Jeez I thought, that's a great price for such a fun car, and I must admit I got very tempted to buy one until I remembered I have one already

Pro Race 1.2's are fantastic looking wheels, this is very tempting! What have you got instead?

This is mine, just taken (tried to get a similar angle). The actual gap between the pillar and wing panel is around 3-4mm if that helps?