surrey86
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Posts posted by surrey86
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I wouldn't bother with braided lines unless getting them with a BBK.
I've never seen much difference with them, even on motorcycles. I think people fit them because they are cheap, have to rebleed the brakes while doing it and then attribute the improvement of freshly bled fluid to the braided lines.
Plus I also had a 2 year old braided line pop on me at my last MOT, from my googling it's not a rare incident. They don't last like OEM lines.
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1 hour ago, Rich196 said:I find it depends how you bed them in i think, give them death on the bedding in process and mine were quiet I had no noise issues like you describe.
Tends to only be an issue if one set of pads are bad for leaving deposits. I have no real experience of doing this though as i am hella lazy
I gave mine a fairly "decent" run in.
The UK seller let on in one of the forums he swaps his out on the road due to the noise, so I don't think it's an isolated problem. Probably differs depending on your local driving habits.
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When I had XP8's in the front calipers they worked well on track but noise on the road was horrific. It's not a nice squeal either, sounds like something is broken.
If you didn't like the minor little squeal you get on OEM pads, well these are about x 10 of that.
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The rear pads aren't that important. I've found EBC yellowstuff fine there befpre, currently use DS2500 and still no problems, OEM would probably be fine tbh. "Fast road" pads are fine for the rears. If you put anything hardcore in the rears they'll make a hell of a racket in normal road use.
Also going to add, Bedford GT is very hard on brakes compared to most UK circuits.
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5 hours ago, Jay Bamrah said:I emailed you guys. I’m going to buy one when it’s back in stock so long as it has a uk shipping option
Hey do you know how long until more stock comes in? I would like to buy one. One other question. I have a 2016 GREY BRZ. If I get this sprayed professionally will it look like metallic grey on the car or plastic grey and then not look like identical to the car ? If that makes sense
thanks guys and look forward to your restock
I would have hoped they had restocked by now, the last reply was February 2018
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Is there now a PS4S available in 225/40/18 because of this?
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If it has been mapped properly on 99 it will knock on 97, the car will retard the ignition advance and produce less power.
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I'm guessing the cats are worth money, given the amount that are being stolen from easy accessible Jazz & Prius at the moment.
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1 hour ago, Kaltorak said:I assume you have a courtesy car? May be worth chasing Toyota on that if not as this is a fault by one of their techs that has left you shafted.
Worth a chase up for an update too. Easy to let the car sit when theres no drive to fix it being applied
Exactly, a courtesy or hire car burning money by the day will focus their minds.
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Most of those pads will likely be noisier than your current ones. As said, you are wasting your money but sometimes you've got to find out I suppose.
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At 2500 miles after the recall I'd be taking that straight to Toyota, they've very likely botched it.
nikndel reacted to this -
how many miles since the recall?
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You do get some negative camber by dropping the car.
If you're just getting lowering springs you can usually get over a degree of negative camber at the front by using camber bolts, cost around £20-25 iirc new.
The rear is more of an issue, you will get more negative camber at the rear with lowering springs but its not desirable. The only way to adjust that is aftermarket adjustable trailing arms. I think it's probably ok as long as you don't drop too much.
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Option 2 is ideal, you'll have no issues with that and will look great. 18's look a lot better on this car.
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I like the Rays steel nuts. Heavier than alloy, and mine have got a little corrosion on them now after a couple years, but you don't need to have awkward conversations with every garage asking them not to use an impact on your alloy nuts.
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I don't know if they have become louder over the years but the Cobra non-res I heard was really loud, you could hear the car coming well before you could see it.
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AD08R's have very stiff sidewalls that are a lot stiffer than even a PS4 XL. I think if you went to a normal XL tyre you'd notice a difference.
Leeky reacted to this -
11 minutes ago, choupolo said:Ah I’m glad it wasn’t just me regarding the shims!
The humming is subtle and I’m not worried about it. The clunk is more bothersome, I want to get rid of that asap.
Clunk could be suspension preload or perhaps clearance issues with drop links.
choupolo reacted to this -
Tbh normally I'd have thought leaving the car modified would make it harder to sell on.
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I found there was a fair bit of faff involved to get the correct amount of shims with the Reyland AP kit. If I remember correctly I grinded the casting a little on the carrier aswell, but I'm not sure that was totally necessary. I haven't noticed a humming noise.
choupolo reacted to this -
I'd suggest putting your phone on video recording then lowering it down the front of the engine. You should be able to see on the video how close the manifold primaries are to the undertray. (obviously do it with engine off 😂).
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The manifold design is a little raspy but its not that bad.
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It's a lot of money for something that hasn't changed much in 8 years, depends on your personal financial circumstances really. The performance pack is the only thing that'd make me even consider it, that and the shiny new car feeling.
suspension problem
in Mechanical
Posted · Report reply
You'll be needing a suspension specialist to rebuild them, the "Track time" group on facebook has a list of recommended companies, Cornering Force in Harrogate is one of them.
I'd jack the car up and start having a look if you can see evidence of oil leakage on the bodies.