surrey86

That's a lot of GT86 for the money, especially considering the mileage.

I've only ever had KW coilovers on my cars. On both sets a slight squeak has sometimes been audible from the rear, more often when cold, some sort of spring stiction maybe that I put down to "coilover noise". It's nothing bad, and you do accept a bit more NVH when modifying. I wouldn't consider any knocking or clonking acceptable, that would drive me up the wall.

Forrester, going through a puddle? https://goflatoutph.com/2019/05/21/many-unibody-suvs-cant-go-off-road-and-then-theres-the-subaru-forester-with-video/

They seize on better with a BBK. More stiction, enhanced seizure performance. @VAD17's BBK is best for this. His kit performed so well he had to have his car recovered to a garage using a crane.

Bear in mind all of the turbo kits obviously include their own header. Having a stock rest of exhaust won't hurt it. It's just it won't make quite as much power.

If you look on their website it looks like they have upgraded the turbo in the cheapest AVO kits so maybe what I said isn't accurate anymore. https://www.fensport.co.uk/collections/toyota-gt86-2012-to-2016/products/avo-stage-1-turbo-kit-ceramic-coated-gt86-brz-billet-turbocharger

TBH it's a while since I compared the detail of them, I can't remember exactly but the TD looked a better unit than the cheapest AVO. The AVO kit as a whole looked better to me, but this is all a matter of opinion and I'm sure a number of people will disagree. There is a lot of info on the AVO kits on ft86club.com. Your second question is for a tuner really. This is a very slippery slope in modifications you are teetering on the top of which could include bigger wheels, oil cooler, bigger brakes, better suspension and so on..

Nice, might have to get that. I was thinking before the arrival of the Yaris might devalue older Impreza's and Evo's a bit. They've been quite expensive for a while, I think partly because nothing really replaced them. My old Blob eye would be worth more now than when I sold it 5 years ago.

They do, same as OEM. Top marks for trying to justify a BBK to yourself by that issue though. 😁

They're not all equal TBH, this will be controversial... that's why people are suggesting you search on previous discussions. There's a fair difference between a turbo and an SC. An SC feels more like you've got a big 3.0 NA engine, probably a touch easier to drive on the limit. A turbo is more of a punch, the sort of push you back in the seat feeling, bit more drama. Cosworth SC's discontinued, getting replacements parts in the future might be interesting. HKS SC - there were some issues with the SC unit itself failing but it appears to have been quietly resolved. Not as much mid-range as a PD supercharger (i.e. Cosworth, Harrop), more of a screamer. Harrop SC's haven't seen much reliability issues reported, but they are expensive. Sprintex SC's run hot intake temperatures on track, bit of a first-gen SC. Fine on the road. The track issues can be worked around but if this is for regular track use you'd be advised to look elsewhere. TD Turbo - Can be clearance issues with the exhaust > coolant pipe, and the air filter with the oil cooler fittings. There's a regular trackdayer on here who has to take a spare filter with him to trackdays as the engine movement keeps contacting the airfilter and snapping it's mounting. I've seen it myself. AVO Turbo kit - I don't know of any reliability issues with these but probably a lot more TD kits out there at the moment due to the big price difference until recently. I get the impression the turbo unit itself in the cheaper kits is not of as good quality as the TD one. There you go, that's my unbiased anecdotal opinion guaranteed to annoy some people!

The Fensport turbo kit used to be a lot more expensive, they brought the price down not long ago to be more competitive with the TD kit, which when it arrived blew the others out of the water on value. Personally if I was going for a turbo, I prefer the design of the Fensport kit with the turbo mounted low and keeping an enclosed air filter so less heat soak. Also Adrian has done a lot of track development with it's design in sprint series, and supports those series financially. I believe the cheaper AVO kits have less headroom for power increases than the standard TD turbo units, though - and the TD is dyno mapped, which is nice to get real data on the improvements beyond the arse-dyno.

A Toyota dealer sold my Dad one with his new RAV4, he had to have it removed and refunded as it kept putting the car in limp mode. It'd a bit odd Toyota main dealers are selling these, I suspect Toyota UK wouldn't be impressed.

I don't think much of those tuning boxes, the equivalent of fitting Rota's to an NSX. They are very crude.

Not sure it's a good idea straightaway. I fitted coilovers to my Impreza, made it quite a bit more focused, changed the character quite a bit - a lot more so that fitting coilovers to the gt86. Nitron's won't be cheap either, I'd be suprised if there's much change from 3k.

Yeah I believe so, HKS use upturned connectors on the sandwich plate and a banjo fitting which gets around it, Mishimoto use banjos. The cheap kits are basically an off the shelf cooler, couple pipes with 45 degree angle fittings and generic sandwich plate, which leaves you needing to hack off the corner of the airbox and cover the hole with tape.

To be honest mine was probably the best track mod by far I did to my car, well that and the brakes. It's just nice not to have to worry about oil all the time. It was pretty handy to have blasting down the autoroutes in the South of France at 37 degrees ambient too! The Mishimoto one might be a good cost/function compromise as that one doesn't have airbox clearance issues with the sandwich plate connections. (It uses banjos)

BTW, just checked the price of them now, wow. Thank Brexit for that one. I paid £576 delivered.

iirc even with a thermostat they are always slightly open, which means they run colder. Don't listen to people who say oil has to get to 100c to burn off condensation though - if that was the case puddles would never evaporate from the street, but they do. The cheap HEL kits and possibly TD (I'm not sure) use generic angled couplings which have clearance issues with the airbox, and lot of people have to hack it up to prevent rubbing. I think Deacon spent a fortune making up a custom airbox to get around it. What you're getting with the HKS kit is a bit more thought put into it, and where the cooler goes.

No I don't. I did get a Cosworth one delivered but the build quality was shocking, full of metal shards stuck to all of the welds, had to return it. PartBox told me their whole batch was the same. Mark at Abbey has suggested an accusump as an alternative but I haven't really looked into it as it doesn't seem to be necessary for my cornering speeds.

I hope it wasn't that terrible he's sending me nudes later.

I have an oil pressure gauge in my eyeline and only ever noticed pressure dropping at Coram at Snetterton, when I was using AD08R tyres on a really warm day. It wasn't dropping that fast but it was coming down. Never noticed it anywhere else.

Probably worth mentioning a few people have had scraping issues with Reyland's own discs on track after they heat up. Seems they might expand more than say AP discs. From what I've heard they take bog standard OEM discs from other cars and machine them down. The kit comes with the correct tabs to mount the lines to the shock absorber body.

They aren't tight on my ET40 18x7.5's.. but it does depend on the wheel design. Seems unlikely you would have a problem. Also I think red wouldn't look good against orange FWIW.

I have the HKS kit that sits behind the front-right fog light opening. Build quality seems excellent, no rubbing issues from the hoses on the airbox as it's properly designed and uses a banjo connection. Last winter trackday I did oil temperatures were barely getting over 100! Also fairly easy to block off the intake if you need to, although I haven't bothered so far. The installation needs some plastics trimming behind the bumper slightly, and a hole cut in the wheel arch trim for a mesh to go on (for the heat to exhaust out of the back of the cooler). All documented in the instructions.

What's the rest of your suspension setup? Geo, spring rates, etc.