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Hi guys I need help/advice from other people who have Tein Flex A coilovers. On the rear I originally lowered 20mm from the standard height Tein set the coilovers at. I then went to get it lowered more but the guy who fitted them told me they are maxed out eventhough there is a lot of thread left. I saw him trying to adjust it more but he couldn't. The fronts however can go much lower to a point where this no arch gap. For the rear, right now I have 1 finger gap between the tyre and the fender. Is this the case with these coilovers or is there a way to go lower? I have attached pictures of what it looks like. Thank you

Toyota GT86 / Subaru BRZ Tein Flex A coilovers Dampening adjustment Front Camber top mounts Decent condition with general wear and tear Collection Only Milton Keynes £500

SOLD ! I have a pair of Tein 5kg @ 150mm long front coilover springs for sale, I bought these to try on my old Tein Streetflex coilovers but they will work on most Tein setups, get in touch if you want me to check fitment. I replaced the 6kg front springs that came on my kit with these to soften the front end for road use and they worked well, I preferred the 6kg for track use but on road 5kg made a nice difference so worth a shot if your car is mainly road and a good saving on buying new, they have done around 300miles so pretty much like new. SOLD - Price wise I would like £60 including uk postage (I paid £94 the pair including delivery) Collection from me in Cumbria is possible just drop me a PM for details. Pics below. Cheers Ian

SOLD SOLD SOLD Ok im removing my Tein coilovers to replace with Ohlins so this also means my amazing Tein EDFC Active Pro kit is coming off for sale also, rare chance for someone to snap up one of these amazing kits 2nd hand but in perfect working order to enable them to get most out of their Tein Coilovers For those who don't know the details these EDFC Active Pro units are very clever allowing you to either manually adjust all 4 dampers individually in the car including setup up presets to quickly change between your road/track/crusing setups etc, or use the impressive Active/GPS settings to automatically stiffen and soften the car as you drive it in full Active mode using G force and Speed sensors, more details can be found on Tein page below LINK - http://www.tein.co.uk/product/edfc_active_pro.html This kit is not to be confused with the cheaper and more basic EDFC2 and EDFC Active as this is the full monty EDFC Active PRO with its extra features as well as the addon GPS module and strut stops. Its the complete kit containing everything you need including the EDFC Active pro Incar controller unit and damper controllers, 4 dampers servo motors and all wiring with original boxes and manuals etc, also the additional strut stop kit to stop over rotation of motors and the nifty GPS addon so you can use the speed sensitive functions. These kits can be fitted to pretty much all the TEIN coilover kits but if you let me know your kit I can double check its compatible, below are part numbers with current RRP from Tein EDFC active Pro controller kit - EDK04-Q0349 @ £565 EDFC 4 Motor Kit - EDK05-12140 @ £126 EDFC GPS kit -EDK07-P8022 @ £60 EDFC Strut stop kit- EDK06-K4474 @ £30 Makes a total to buy this new of £780+shipping! SOLD - Price wise I would like £400 or near offer for the lot and that includes UK delivery, overseas delivery possible at extra cost just get in touch, all in all an amazing saving on new to enable you to get the most out of your Tein suspension, you can also collect from me in Penrith Cumbria if you prefer just get in touch. Edit- Ok the Kit is now fully and carefully removed from the car, surprised at how simple it was with just a few power connections for controller units then cable to each motor, the controllers all talk to each other wirelessly so not loads of cables running all over car which is good!. Pictures below showing all parts after removal and a screen shot of Teins page showing the parts etc, if you need anymore info just get in touch, also if you have Tein coilovers and don't have this you need to get in touch also Drop me a pm if interested Cheers Ian

Selling the Tein Street flex adjustable coilovers off my car. Come with C spanners. £500 collected from Nottingham

Hi All, After reading through the supplied guide I decided to follow it but I did do a few things differently, I will also go in to a bit more detail for those that are considering the OEM Audio+ kit (which despite a few issues fits very well) I believe that my issues were perhaps due to me not providing as much info as I should have and the fact they were pushing to get the kit to me before Christmas. Once I get my studio mic I will record some good quality audio from the car so that you can get a feel to how crisp it sounds. I will add you can achieve a better install for the money with aftermarket components. However if you want something that fits superbly well in to the factory headunit with a loom already made up, this is probably a kit you should consider... That said, it doesn't sound bad and definitely packs a punch. The Guide Step 1 First off you want to do the following: 1. Unlock both doors 2. Open the boot 3. lift the bonnet up This is because you are going to disconnect the battery, if you don't do this you are sure to blow a few fuses along the way and you will curse yourself when sods law you don't have any spares in your garage So disconnect the wires from the negative terminal, tuck them to the right of the battery so they don't pop back up and re-attach themselves.. Something they will want to do after being on the terminal for so long. Step 2 Next you want to head over to either your driver or passenger seat and remove both the headunit surround and the headunit itself.. To do this get a flathead screwdriver and a thin microfibre clock of some kitchen paper will do also (to prevent any unwanted scratches) If you are a rebel, feel free to do without. The below image shows where to place the flathead screddriver, there will be a small hole on the right side of the surround begin prising it off from here. For reference here is where the clips are situated on the surround Once this is off you will need to remove the four 10mm Hex nuts holding the headunit in place, shown below in the image Disconnect the following cables, you may want to reference this image later when connecting it all back up, though it shouldn't be a major issue! Step 3 Next you will need to remove the drivers side trim pieces at the front (In the majority of aftermarket installs you would be doing this for both sides to prevent alternator whine, this loom will only run up one side) Place your hand roughly where mine is in the image and pull straight up. I wouldn't be too worried about snapping it, it will take some pulling and is fairly flexible. Work along until it is off. Next you will need to remove the trim piece around the bonnet catch, there is one pop rivet and two green panel clips holding this on, Undo the pop rivet shown in the image. Then get your fingers under the panel next to the door seal and push it out and towards the pedals Note: Check both green clips come off of the chassis, if one is left on, remove it with either a clip removal tool or a flathead screwdriver(using a microfiber again) Step 4 Getting there... now on to the rear, we need to remove the seat and the rear trim piece First loosen the door seal around the back trim Next up there is a 10mm hex Nut butting in to an L bracket holding the seat in place, remove this With one hand push down on the back of the seat, with your other hand grab the L bracket and pull up, this will unhinge the seat How there is one pop rivet which was hidden by the seat you will see which is shown below, remove this. Drop the rear seats down, you will see two pop rivets, remove these also. That's all the pop rivets fixing the rear trim in place, unfortunately there are a fair few panel clips The way I removed this panel, on the left side of the panel where the door seal was there will be a gap along this edge, begin pulling here. Pull at the lower locations shown here also Are you still struggling? Lets hope not, if you are, here is an image below for reference of where the clips are situated on the panel... Ok we are going a bit too quick, by now around an hour should have passed if it's your first time removing these pieces, if not they tend to come off a little easier and you can do this in around 30 mins when you get good at it Now go grab yourself a cup of tea and feel please that you got this far hopefully with no broken clips... Step 5 Now we have all the trim pieces out we can start with the small amount of chassis modification that needs to be done There will be two speed nuts, attached to the Subwoofer enclosure, get these off as we need to slip these on to some brackets.. Note: You will end up with two pop rivets left over after the install, this is where they have come from! The first bracket can be found where the bottom pop rivet came out of that was holding the rear trim piece in place, there will be two holes on this and a bend on the bracket. Grab a pair of needle nosed pliers and bend it so that it is relatively straight. Don't worry about scratching it, you won't see it and honestly the speed nut will scratch it anyway.... Attach Speed nut to the bracket Now in the boot there will be a pop rivet directly inside, next to the rubber seal, pop it off, pull back the carpet around the hole and there will be a bracket. Place the speed nut on here It's important to place the correct speed nut on the correct bracket, the one on the allen bolt goes on to the bracket next to the rubber seal... Step 6 Now we need to route the main loom, infact the only loom, and this is where my guide will differ. OEM + say to put the trim back after routing the cable, we won't be doing this until after we have got the wire through the grommet as it's a tight fit and will just waste your time when you realise you don't have enough loom at the bulkhead right? Correct One end of the loom will have 3 multiple pinned connectors.. From memory I believe they were a 6 pin, 10 pin and a 12 pin. This is irrelevant in the grand scheme of things, unless you have a fetish for even numbers on electrical connectors.... We will start with the end with the most connectors rub it behind the seatbelts and in to the boot leaving roughly as much as i have, for those with the normal OEM+ Install you just need to leave enough loom to get behind the enclosure. For those with the Active suspension loom it will split, the Amplifier is mounted on the subwoofer enclosure however the DSP Amplifier will be placed on the left side of the boot (We will get to this later) You will have an earth wire on the subwoofer loom (yellow shrink skin over the crimp terminal). Just beflow the rear quarter window is a gold connector, this is your earth. Undo this 10mm hex nut and place the earth wire on to of the earth wires already there. Now that is done we can run the cable through the cable tunnel, there is a which oblong tube* (Do these even exist ) It has 3 white clips running along it, unclip this and fold it back, the carpet is stapled to it. Now I will apologise here, i'm missing a picture for you, I forgot one (doh)... Within this tunnel there are more clips, undo these and tuck the loom in to this and clip it back up. It will go in from the boot like this And come out in the drivers footwell like this (run it to where I have annotated with red circle) Next up OEM+ say to cable tie the loom to the grey cable shown below, this is located above the pedals. I would honestly leave it loose for now Step 7 This part is probably the trickiest part of the install, they don't go in to enough detail on how to successfully get through the grommet, luckily this one isn't tricky if you know how to do it! Above the pedals to the right will be this grommet (use a torch) there is a nipple on the other side that when cut will make a convenient hole (presumably there for the JBL OEM install) the hole is unfortunately on the top side of the grommet, i've marked roughly where it is below. Now that you know where is is , head out to the bonnet and adjacent to the Master Brake Cylinder you will see the grommet with a convenient nipple on it, cut the tip with a stanley knife, the guide says to cut it all off, just put a slice half way through. This will be fine. This is now the tricky bit, we need to get the power cables through this grommet, there is a 14 Gauge and a 12 Gauge cable so luckily not all that thick. Get a metal rod (which is not too thick and can bend but not too thin so that it bends when forge is on it. Get some electrical wire around 40cm in length each. Slice the elctrical wire and take one wire out of it. Tape this and the metal rod together with electrical tape. Now push the metal rob through the grommet. It should go through easily, if its not, wiggle it until it slides through freely. I can assure you there is already a hole there for it so no need to force it! If you force it you may slice one of the electrical wires already running through it. Once it's through pull it through to the other side. Now remove the metal rod and tape the power cables from the loom to the electrical wire. Go back to the bonnet side and pull it through. (I've probably saved you around an hour of crying trying to get it through Step 8 Now that is all done, you need to route the loom up above the pedals and in to the headunit bay. I honestly can't get pictures of where to route these, but directly to the right if you look in the hole where the headunit came out of you should be able to see the pedals. It's best to get another pair of hands to grab the loom as you feed it up. Once that's done, conenct up the OEM+ loom to the OEM loom as shown below Next plug the OEM+ Loom in to the Headunit and also the other OEM loom connectors which are sitting around (Should be 3 of these) Once done it should look something like this.. Well done, now put the headunit back in! and clip the trim back on! Guide to be continued....