matrixprotein

No you don't have anything with ecutek. You just pay the license and get the car tuned. All by Abbey, you come in with your car and leave with your car with no 'physical' additions to the car

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I'd personally take it to fensport or Abbey. With a company that has an excellent reputation and experience with ecutek. No disrespect to your friend or his company

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There was myself and afew others who knew about how TD was up to shady stuff.
 
I've owned my 86 for about 3 years and have known about this for the past 2 years. I never ever made a thread about it simply because TD had almost a cult like status and anything negative you said about then would get shot down.
 
Poor parts, poor design, awful quality. Stories of Mike scamming and extorting other owners of this car platform. There are countless stories about his shady practice and even instances where he had over charged his customers only to later stitch himself up and go quiet on people.
 
His constant reply of 'the courier has it' and 'I'm packaging the item today'. All of these kinds of messages and then not providing tracking numbers etc is just lies when really he hasn't done anything.
 
Even regarding his forged builds, other owners have questioned why he uses 'skunk2' conrods and his reply was simply 'most people for what they use it for will do fine with this type of rod's' knowing full well that it's a poor quality product - certainly a product he's willing to fit into your engine but not his own.
 
But his actions have consequences and I'm glad people can finally see how he conducts his business.
 
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Update on the matter: I now have my car back from Fensport, after they did an amazing job at fixing it(and upgrading)!

They looked at the above videos and I told them what was happening, so they advised it needs stripping and proper looking at to see what exactly is broken. They had a good second hand engine available that had done 45000 miles if I just wanted to do a quick swap and save some money - but I wanted to upgrade some parts and kept that as a fallback option.

So initially we got to the following items:
New genuine crankshaft Genuine conrod and main bearings ARP head studs Cosworth headgaskets Brian crower forged conrods Kelford valve springs All fluids for running in and final 2x oil filters Toyota genuine coolant Oil system improvements to dramatically improve oil pressure Fensport custom oil pickup pipe Remap We went down the route of forged rods only as Tom is running this on his GT86 and he is hitting 460bhp on his daily very comfortably, though the advice is to not go higher than 500bhp.
They removed the engine and got majority of it stripped down and find that it is worse than anticipated. The insides had nasty charred black coating and the oil smelled burned.
The bearing on cylinder 1 conrod had somehow welded itself to the other bearing causing heavy crankshaft damage. It looked like the engine has been running like this for quite a while like this and remnants of bearing material can be found throughout the engine. Piston oil scraper rings have been blocked by burned oil and carbon preventing it from reaching the sump.  They needed to strip and clean the engine considerably more than expected and also inspect the heads to see if there is more damage to the camshafts or carriers.



 
Next step was to actually see what was salvageable from the engine and what is not. Depending if the damage is beyond usability with stock pistons, we potentially have to look at getting a brand new shortblock from Toyota which would be cheaper and less time consuming.
Luckily the cylinder heads were decent apart from light scoring on the camshafts and journals, but that seems to be very common in these engines and is no cause for concern. Unfortunately the block and pistons are no good at all and can not be re-used. I could have gone for more forged internals but as I'm not planning to go beyond 500bhp I opted for the brand new short block. Whilst we were waiting for that to come in, they built the custom oil pickup ready for the new setup.

 
Once the shortblock came in it was quickly getting rebuild with the new interals. You can definitely see which part of the engine here is nice and shiny!



 
I've had her back for a week now and runs like an absolute dream, I am happy I went down this route and looking forward to many more miles and future upgrades with Fensport.
 
Big shoutout to the team at Fensport for the amount of updates and pictures I received during the process including invaluable amounts of information on parts/upgrades/issues etc. Not to mention the few saturdays they came in to work on it due to having more issues than expected.

Happy to say I will definitely going back to them for anything else.

They are Prospect R-Spec Step Range Gauges, I think

Block8Head Pod for 3x 60mm Gauges, but they also sell sizes for 52mm Gauges, along with 1x and 2x Gauge Pod Units

The 60mm Gauges were between £65 to £85 each, although they were slightly cheaper because I used the RX-8OC Discount Code that we have

The Block8Head was £113.00 I think

The Passenger Side Pod Unit was £200.00 from Fensport

The whole lot came to something in the region of £800.00 including all the Sensors and Sandwich Plates fitted, but you do get what you pay for at the end of the day

I find this all incredibly useful on trackdays

I'd be so paranoid if I sprayed my car. Are you considering ppf or anything like that protective film?

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It's very difficult to have a perfect solution because we all have different tastes. You will just have to try around and see.

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Sorry I mean non resonated catback. But that will be ridiculously loud. I personally wouldnt go that loud. If you are turbo charging in the near future then you can as a turbo will make the exhaust quieter but if you're going to keep it NA a while, then I wouldnt but each to their own.

Any reputable brand is fine I would think. Just not milltek

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Get a hks front pipe then go resonated exhaust. And get a decat manifold. That will be loud like a train

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Is there a club discount for standard products.

I'm after some coilovers

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What a nice guy

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Had my car February 2019. Have following;

Avo stage 1 turbo with uel manifold
Hks front pipe
Cobra resonated catback
Rota 18" wheels
Valenti smoked tail lights
Topsage rear diffuser
Ht autos lip kit
Tomei S shift knob

Plans for 2020

Sti brembo 4 pot brakes
Coilovers
New alloys

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No danger of that...merely posted for discussion,I was already 99% sure they were pointless

In that case, at that level I would highly recommend the xtreme stage 1. Wont regret it.

I know many recommend the exedy but I haven't tried it myself, but having experienced this one, I wont bother trying others.

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Did you buy this car in london?

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Have a look at this
https://www.sportseats4u.co.uk/toyota-gt-86-bucket-seat-guide/
You'll need either a bottom mount or side mount depending on the type of seat (most recliners are bottom mount) so you'll probably need a bottom mount conversion bar set and then a side mount bracket like the ones listed in the article. 

Just got the car back now. The weather isn't the greatest but I did get to push it a little here and there.

I'll resonate what other forced induction owners have said; its transformed the car and for the better.

I had mine mapped very conservatively and even then, it pulls like a train and it's very difficult not to find yourself going to fast.

Tdlr; get a turbo or supercharger.

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Just got the car back now. The weather isn't the greatest but I did get to push it a little here and there.

I'll resonate what other forced induction owners have said; its transformed the car and for the better.

I had mine mapped very conservatively and even then, it pulls like a train and it's very difficult not to find yourself going to fast.

Tdlr; get a turbo or supercharger.

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You're going to love driving that home!

Have just been sent this by fensport. Need to find a way to pick it up

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It is a turbo yes but its location in underneath hence you cant see it

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Have just been sent this by fensport. Need to find a way to pick it up

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I remember when I thought I wouldn't take mine on track 😂

In the standard car, steady-state coolant is usually in the low-mid-80s I believe, rising up to 105 which is about as high as it shouild get with out it being a concern. Oil tracks coolant except under duress when it can rise well above, with the perceived wisdom round here to be a max of 130 before cooldown is essential.
With a turbo at stake, you might want to keep it lower still.
 

Around 90-100C. I've noticed it's quite easy to get it to 120C with spirited driving on the road. I have found on track it will get over 125C after a couple of laps. Really you don't want to go over 130C, but it does seem to stabilise around 125C. If you're going on track an oil cooler is a good idea, on the road I'm not convinced it's needed.