Kodename47

Probably the time to pull out this pic

Subaru have now acknowledged this and have parts to fix:
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=132308

If you're able to switch maps then it's no change in the map. If they disconnected the battery it would have reset the ECU so lost the fuel trims and pedal/throttle learning. You can reset the latter by turning the ignition on without the engine running and press the pedal a few times and then let it idle for about a min.
Not sure why you'd need to disconnect the battery though. Other than that, maybe a MAF sensor issue or an intake leak from changing the filter?

Mark (formerly of Car Limits) is back doing Handling days and Activity days at the North Weald Airfield.
I did a few of these days and they are fantastic for learning car control at and over the grip limit in a safe environment.
  4 people instruction days are £ 225 per person
  20 people Activity days are £80 per person  
http://drivelimits.com

Syvecs have a standard alone ECU nearly ready for sale this will allow the full potential to be found I feel.

@Jay Bamrah just to close the loop on the top thread, the EcuTek packages are as follows:
ECU License: Usually around £250, this is to allow the ECU to take an EcuTek ROM. The ECU only needs this the 1st time it's flashed, so there may be 2nd hand cars that have this already. Programming Kit (or the BT EVI Kit) with Dongle: The Dongle is the part that allows use of the ProECU software on your PC/Laptop. This is used to flash and log files to the ECU. You do not need this if you're getting tuned by someone else. Needed if you're remote mapping or logging. Can be used to make basic maps for your car and can be used to flash OTS maps if you want. The cable or BT EVI is just the device to connect laptop to the OBD port. RaceROM Upgrade: This is basically a Tuner License lite. It's applied to the dongle and is there to give you greater access to maps, including the custom and RaceROM maps, for self tuning. So this allows you to create better maps, but makes zero difference if you are flashng someone else's maps. https://www.ecutek.com/Products/Retail/ProECU-Programming-Kit/Features/ProECU-BRZ

That's a lot of GT86 for the money, especially considering the mileage.

Probably worth telling Subaru then

 

Probably worth telling Subaru then

 

Still uses the OEM airbox, so the intake is no lower than stock.

They're not all equal TBH, this will be controversial... that's why people are suggesting you search on previous discussions. 
There's a fair difference between a turbo and an SC. An SC feels more like you've got a big 3.0 NA engine, probably a touch easier to drive on the limit. A turbo is more of a punch, the sort of push you back in the seat feeling, bit more drama.
Cosworth SC's discontinued, getting replacements parts in the future might be interesting.
HKS SC - there were some issues with the SC unit itself failing but it appears to have been quietly resolved. Not as much mid-range as a PD supercharger (i.e. Cosworth, Harrop), more of a screamer.
Harrop SC's haven't seen much reliability issues reported, but they are expensive.
Sprintex SC's run hot intake temperatures on track, bit of a first-gen SC. Fine on the road. The track issues can be worked around but if this is for regular track use you'd be advised to look elsewhere.
TD Turbo - Can be clearance issues with the exhaust > coolant pipe, and the air filter with the oil cooler fittings. There's a regular trackdayer on here who has to take a spare filter with him to trackdays as the engine movement keeps contacting the airfilter and snapping it's mounting. I've seen it myself.
AVO Turbo kit - I don't know of any reliability issues with these but probably a lot more TD kits out there at the moment due to the big price difference until recently. I get the impression the turbo unit itself in the cheaper kits is not of as good quality as the TD one.
 
There you go, that's my unbiased anecdotal opinion guaranteed to annoy some people!
 
 

The AVO, as per all turbo kits really, are limited by the turbo you fit to it. AFAIK there is no difference between the higher power AVO vs lower other than turbo and supporting hardware. I also agree with you, the AVO setup is much nicer IMO. Many adopters in the USA and elsewhere as this was one of the early quality kits, then the cheaper ones came to market.
Car's on 40k miles - no issues. Only just replaced the stock clutch, not because I had to (report was only minor wear) but as the engine was out so made sense to refresh it. The gearbox becomes an issue at around 350bhp apparently, so probably 275-300lb.ft, so will never become an issue for most. More likely to damage axles if you launch the car a lot, but again I don't try for 0-60s so not been a problem. In fact, bar servicing and wanting to mod the car it's not cost me anything.
Stage 1/2 terminology is rubbish IMO, mine is just tuned for the setup, although much of that tuning has been done by myself from Abbey's foundation. Also with a SC you don't just turn up the boost  
I have also done almost all the spannering work on the car myself and the cost of what I've done had probably cost about half of £7k TBH. As I am in the process of selling the car my feedback is as follows: The GT86 is awesome when FI. I stopped chasing numbers as 240-250ish WHP on this platform is really fun without pushing the car too far. The chassis makes it great fun, make it playful and not without excess grip IMO and as the Sprintex is one of the PD blowers the torque for daily use is great. One reason I have kept it so long is that I have struggled to find something that I would want to replace it with and I find myself in the lucky position I can now get something that works both as a family car and is fun to drive. I've tried some more modern sports cars, such as the new Supra, and the SC on the 86 (and the 86 in general) I found more engaging and not far off the pace, despite the 100+hp deficit on paper. I'd have to spend way more than what the car is worth plus the mods value to get into something else that I would want.

I was one of the earliest supercharged cars in the country, running the Sprintex - not really used much these days but a good SC for a daily car. The pound is doing a bit better now so the rate vs the Aussie dollar, so something like the Harrop could be a bit cheaper, best bet is to speak to Mark at Abbey direct.
None of these push too much power to really be any difference in reliability. I personally prefer an SC, mines been that way for 7 years.

Abbey is my choice too for whatever kit you choose.

Sold to me - happy days

Yes, how do you know you've sealed it and the boot isn't going to flood  

Done the hose test?

It's all to do with the seal, the TSB for them is very specific with order of tightening and for torque. You need them to be even or you create a poor seal and that's where the moisture gets around the seal. I expect some cars aren't done well from factory. Plus they really should be a single use item, once you remove a light you need to replace the gasket.

Autocar beat you by a couple of weeks
 

Provisionally Sold  

Yeah, the B48 definitely won't fit where the FA24 does without a lot of work. Also fitting a BMW lump into a Subaru chassis seems a bit of a jump.

Yeah, the B48 definitely won't fit where the FA24 does without a lot of work. Also fitting a BMW lump into a Subaru chassis seems a bit of a jump.

Reminds me of these.....

Even the rear....

Just one less set of doors and some nice alloys.... (oh and rally team development and AWD, as if that matters 🤣)

Reminds me of these.....

Even the rear....

Just one less set of doors and some nice alloys.... (oh and rally team development and AWD, as if that matters 🤣)

Reminds me of these.....

Even the rear....

Just one less set of doors and some nice alloys.... (oh and rally team development and AWD, as if that matters 🤣)