Kodename47
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Content Count
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Last visited
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12
Posts posted by Kodename47
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On 7/11/2019 at 6:26 PM, BRZ-123 said:In what configuration?
No idea, I believe just the cat-back.
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21 hours ago, maurice said:It's a really nice looking exhaust to be fair.
It's also one of the best sounding
BRZ-123 and Ade reacted to this -
11 hours ago, Dennis Wilson said:Thanks everyone. Just to be safe does anyone no which fuse you would take out to stop the alarm if needed??
Probably not as it's not really an issue. The biggest issue with the alarm is that it drains the battery if left undriven.... the alarm won't go off when the battery is flat.
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8 hours ago, Dennis Wilson said:I have a panic that it might go off in the middle of the night and the whole neighborhood will want to kill me.
The alarm is pathetic, it won't wake anyone anyway.
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Interested in this as I've been toying with the FK510 as a replacement for the Primacys, let us know how you get on.
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Pretty easy to refit yourself if you want to, takes all of 10 mins to remove and refit the intake pipe with the resonator.
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Yes, this is quite common. As said, the camera has to be powered when the HU is powered up or it won't sense it and allow it. The common fix it to take the 12v switched feed at the rear of the HU.
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Were you on the A34/M40 junction yesterday in the awful traffic? If not, you have a doppelganger...... 😂
Stutopia reacted to this -
1 hour ago, gavin_t said:The look of these is growing on me. Looks good in white above ^^ think they are a car that will look better in person then the pics
I think that it REALLY doesn't suit white.... that rear pic is OK but from the front is very meh.
Plus saw the same red car yesterday on it's way to Subota Boy.... small, looks quite tall rather than wide, no road presence. There's a new Z4 around here as well in black. I preferred that, the opposite to what I had decided from pics. Would probably go for the 30i/M40i Z4 over the Toyota for a road car, it's cheaper as well.
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P0420 - Reset the ECU and drive again until it comes on.
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19 hours ago, matrixprotein said:Abbey have stop using em over issues with heat management
Only really an issue on track. Still enjoy mine after 4+ years boosted. The charge temps do get hotter than the rest but it is relative, the newer SPS version is apparently better and adds a little extra boost per pulley. The problem is that the cost of a new one means that often people will go to other alternatives, just look at the current discount of the clearance CW or how good value the TD turbo kit is. The Harrop, also being from Aus, is equivalent in price and produces "better" results and does have better heat management.
For a road driven car the Sprintex is just fine. 70mm pulley it makes a lovely whine and puts out similar power to the Cosworth - I reckon mine is ~250-260 hub bhp, so right at the limit of what most would consider "safe". If I were to track it, the output would drop a bit over time as the W2A system heats up, but I'm still not sure it would ruin my fun. A WMI kit soon sorts that out.
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1 hour ago, MartinT said:surely forced induction gets around any restrictions in air flow, to a degree?
No, you want the least amount of restriction upstream of a positive displacement blower. As said, the OEM design is to help remove noise and resonance. The sizing is perfectly adequate for 200bhp.
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29 minutes ago, MartinT said:Looking at the standard snorkel, it does look restrictive. Ah well, it doesn't look too hard to replace so we'll see.
It's not, and Cosworth didn't find it a restriction on the SC either.
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2 hours ago, MartinT said:Can you feel any gains at high revs?
You'll gain a couple of HP, if anything, Not really sure you'd notice that.
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1 hour ago, GT_86 said:One more question, can the pistons be compressed back into the Calliper, or do I need a rewind tool? Thanks Darren
Rears need the tool, fronts don't.
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Auto hill-hold was advertised on the original models, but wasn't available or an option and it was a misprint. The car is good enough to overlook these kind of convenience features. As for the mirror, again I don't think this is even an option in the UK. That's why they wouldn't fit it. As for compensation, I think £150 is more that suitable for a feature that is not going to be a deal breaker.
Leeky reacted to this -
1 hour ago, MartinT said:Could you post a link for the intake scoop please, I'm having trouble finding it?
Greddy, Laile Beatrush and Leg Motorsport (https://www.japanparts.com/parts/list.php?dl=2&cm=178&md_sm=1:129) all make a similar ones. Can't find the Autofactory on any of the usual Japanese parts sites
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These are known in the US as SpecD and that is what they have been sold as if you want to look at other retailers, pics and videos. No doubt these are now replicas or more likely just sold as white label goods to be re-branded.
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It doesn't have Canbus for the lights so you wont get errors if you swap to LEDs but you'll get the "hyperflash" that you get with a blown bulb. You need to either buy a replacement flasher relay, which is easy to replace, or mod the OEM one with resistors, simple to do if you can solder. Or you can buy resistor packs to fit by the lights, but I've always said this is least preferable due to the heat they emit. Not so much an issue on the front as they'd be well ventilated but in the rear you'd have to have them around the boot liner trim.
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19 hours ago, spikyone said:Fair enough, I wondered what could've happened to justify a warranty claim on all four. I'm impressed they didn't write it off as wear & tear, that's the usual first answer!
I had 3 of mine replaced as well just before I hit 5 years
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1 hour ago, Lauren said:It's an EML, not a CEL, that's for Americans.
It's actually a MIL, not a EML 😛
Without a code this is useless. Did you check the fuel cap went back on properly as that can throw a code. 95-99 RON no matter what fuel type should never cause a code to be thrown unless it causes a misfire or something similar.
Mike reacted to this -
10 hours ago, Daninplymouth said:Thanks for the feedback. I do already have the TD manifold and map. I know what I’m like so I probably will end up with the turbo anyway but that’s 18months away really so I was thinking of some smaller things I could do to liven it up a bit in the mean time
If you will go turbo and have a manual car then it's not worth it. You want longer gears with the extra torque, not shorter. Also, as @Lauren said, if you drive on motorways and dual carriageways you end up sitting at higher revs.
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I believe they were fitted on MY15 cars, so late 2014 onward. If yours in a 14 plate, it won't be likely to have it,
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I might be up for it, let me know if you can get a discount before I look at booking.
VAD17 reacted to this
Boot won't open - Getting fed up with owning this car
in Mechanical
Posted · Report reply
It's OK, I get pangs of the same feeling.
Is yours a Primo? In the states there is a button in the boot that stops the boot release from working (look at vids online). I don't believe it's on UK cars but maybe the primo. Also, is there a manual key release?