Conscript

You could probably pick up a big box of assorted trim and panel clips cheaply from Amazon, Ebay, etc. I have a load in the garage somewhere. They might not be the exact size or shape as the official ones, but as long as they hold securely, it doesn't really matter...not like anyone can see them. 

Almost a year on from this post and I never got around to fixing it myself. But last month I was looking into the problem again and found that they sell these little clips on Japan Parts, and they aren't charging 15 quid each. Instead, I was able to get 2 of them for 17 quid, delivered. Overnight parts from Japan, yo! 
Although not overnight. I ordered on the 19th May and they turned up this morning. That's a little job to attend to in my time off this week

Just tried this and I'm not sure it's made a huge difference tbh. My gap was nowhere near as bad as some other examples I've seen though, so maybe it's just diminishing returns.
On the plus side, I didn't have to remove the bumper...just undoing the side indicator and taking a clip out from there I was able to pull the bumper forward enough to fit this clip. Very fiddly (the clips are tiny), but managed it. Im not going to do the drivers side...it wasn't as bad, and now they look roughly even. It just looks like "bad panel gaps", rather than "bumper falling off". Stupidly, I forgot to take a 'before' picture, too. 

As long as you don't have any modifications, then just put 95RON in. The car may lose a little top end power, but if you're using it to commute, you're barely going to notice.
I've see people on the Facebook group claiming that the car MUST have 98RON as a minimum because "it says so on the petrol cap". Which isn't true (at least for my model year) - it says "Use 98RON fuel", but that's because it's recommended - there's no suggestion that you must ONLY use 98RON, or that anything less will cause your engine to explode. If you refer to the handbook, it does state quite explicitly that 98RON fuel is recommended for the best performance, but that 95RON fuel can be used with no detrimental effect other than slightly reduced power - but obviously, the inside of a petrol cap is a bit small to relay all that information so they just put "Use 98RON" on it. 
If you're looking to save some money, which is perfectly understandable especially when doing high miles, then I'd just switch to 95RON and not bother with additives personally. Obviously this may not apply to modified vehicles which have been mapped specifically for higher octanes. 

How sad is it that I know exactly what Tesco's carpark that is?

Discovered that my 86 can make into a multi story without grounding out.
Also, shamefully discovered photo editing software 🤷‍♂️ 

Set the alarm for half-five and went out for a drive this morning. Sacrificed a lie in. Didn't regret it.

Set the alarm for half-five and went out for a drive this morning. Sacrificed a lie in. Didn't regret it.

Set the alarm for half-five and went out for a drive this morning. Sacrificed a lie in. Didn't regret it.

Set the alarm for half-five and went out for a drive this morning. Sacrificed a lie in. Didn't regret it.

Set the alarm for half-five and went out for a drive this morning. Sacrificed a lie in. Didn't regret it.

I have one from my MY2016 BRZ which I replaced with a new one I bought from Japan in September (cost £97.59 including shipping by the way). It's in good condition, the leather is a little shiny from use and there's a very small scratch on the silver ring around the gear pattern. Difficult to photograph.
Yours for £50 posted.

Yup, it's the clutch fork. All you need to do is put some grease on the pivot point,  just inside the bell housing. Bit fiddly, but not difficult.
1. Unbolt and remove the passenger side strut brace (just to give you better access).
2. Undo the two bolts holding the slave cylinder to the bell housing, and just move it out of the way so it's not pushing on the fork (no need to undo the hydraulic line).
3. Gently slide the rubber boot off the top of the clutch fork. You should now be able to reach a finger in behind the fork and feel for the pivot point. You'll have to work by feel, but should be able to reach it. 
4. Once you know where the pivot point is, get a dollop of grease on your finger and apply it to the pivot point. I used red rubber grease as its nice and tacky.  Work it in as best you can.  Wiggle the fork back and forth a bit to help. 
5. Once done, replace the rubber boot over the fork and reseat it properly on the bell housing. Reattach the slave cylinder, and then the strut brace and you're done. Work the clutch a few times to work the grease in and confirm the fix. 
I did this a few months ago and it got rid of that god awful creaking. Some say you need to repeat the process regularly, but so far the noise hasn't returned.

Yup. It also makes the gearbox feel nicer I found - feels like I am pushing the gear lever against more solid resistance, less energy from my arm being "wasted" as it were. Small but noticeable improvement

Yup. It also makes the gearbox feel nicer I found - feels like I am pushing the gear lever against more solid resistance, less energy from my arm being "wasted" as it were. Small but noticeable improvement

I had the engine/gearbox mounts changed today at Abbey Motorsport.  The bag labels say TRD, but the parts are stamped Subaru, so I guess they are identical to the STi parts.
The new mounts are a whole world of difference in terms of handling.  The chassis feels tight and precise, there is no jerkiness on pull-away and the whole car just feels more stable and better planted.  This is what was needed to complement the Bilsteins.  There is no more gearbox noise than before.  It was a very worthwhile upgrade for the cost.

All there, pics attached. There is a full set of spare bushes also.
Pics attached.

Back in 2017 I had my car modified at Abbey, I had an ACE CS400 manifold installed, alongside a Cobra HFC. Performance is great, torque dip eliminated. However I was never that happy with the sound. It was okay-ish with the rest of the exhaust stock but I kept looking for options to make it sound better.
Last year during lockdown I purchased a Q300 catback, which is meant to be one of the quieter systems, but I still found it a bit loud and droney at about 2.5K RPM. I got rid after three months. I then went to just a Remus backbox, still with the ACE and the Cobra HFC. Much more bearable than the Q300. But was still getting a little bit of annoying rasp sometimes at low revs.
So last month, I decided to see if removing the HFC made a difference. I swapped it out and went back to the OEM front pipe, which has a resonator. That has got rid of the rasp, and I haven't really noticed any loss of performance or efficiency. That said, I'm not a track driver, and probably don't drive as hard as most, so I might have lost a tad of top end power but not noticed. But I am at least happy with the sound now. So the exhaust system now goes ACE manifold > OEM front pipe > OEM midpipe > Remus backbox.
All that is a long way of saying that in my experience, I've found that the system sounds better with the OEM front pipe, and I've haven't really noticed if going back to it reduced power. If you're getting a decat manifold, just be aware that a high flow cat might make the system noisy if you have anything other than an OEM catback. Whether that bothers you or not is up to you. 
As for MOT compliance....I think the general consensus is that with a decatted manifold, and the second cat in the front pipe replaced with a HFC, you might be at risk of not passing emissions - at the very least you will have to make sure it's tested with the exhaust piping hot to make sure it passes. Mine has never failed the MOT since it's been running with just the Cobra HFC as the only cat...however that's because I've made sure to always take it back to Abbey for the MOT, who will make sure to test it when it's thoroughly warmed up. 

Morning both,
 
It is just these deals listed above for this year, it's been a rollercoaster of a year with suppliers and transport!
 
Thanks
 
Mike

Evo Review 
 
https://evo.co.uk/toyota/204343/toyota-gr86-review-new-coupe-takes-the-challenge-to-porsches-cayman-20

Decent review, but I see it only took a few posts before the usual  "it nEeDS a tURbO!!" morons turned up. Reminds me why I don't bother with the PH forums anymore.
Anyway...getting increasingly hyped about the GR86

Not your seat is it? My seat creaks a fair amount sometimes, and, like you say, it's exactly that kind of "bed spring" noise, and doesn't sound like it's coming from outside the car.
Another prime suspect would be the infamous clutch squeak, but it doesn't seem like you're changing gear in the video.
Does it happen every time you pull away? It seems to be when you're already on the move, is it at the same speed everytime?

I'd get the gearbox oil changed to something decent. Abbey put Millers gear oil in mine and that really improved the shifting feel. Shouldn't be too expensive, and can only help. 
Ask them to install MTEC shift springs too. They really make a difference to shift quality, they center the gearstick with more force which makes shifts across the centre of the gate easier and more precise. Perhaps what you're feeling is the stick catching on the gate slightly as you shift into third...before the shift springs if I shifted too quickly from 2nd to 3rd it was sometimes possible to stick on the gate between 1st and 3rd...the stronger MTEC springs help with that by applying a stronger centring force to the stick.