Luke

Hey everyone as a Cosworth Supercharger owner I was gutted to discover all the spare parts have gone from the Cosworth warehouse. Luckily I managed to track down the original supplier of the charger coolers and so I’m back up and running again. In case it helps anyone in the future here is the details of where you can still get parts from: NAR Group Ltd www.nargroup.com Speak to Andy and he’ll help you out. Parts list: 20045642 LT RADIATOR -INTERCOOLER 20046415 L/H INTERCOOLER 20046418 R/H INTERCOOLER 20045299 INLET CLEAN AIR DUCT FABRICATION 20045372 INTERCOOLER /PUMP &TANK MOUNTING BRACKET R/H DRIVE 20046106 12 HOSE KIT - INTERCOOLER COOLANT HOSE SET RHD 20047214 12 HOSE KIT-INTERCOOLER L/H DRIVE 20046687 BRACKET IC PUMP RESERVOIR L/H DRIVE

So… was this resolved 3 years ago? Or is it still clunking?

Worth it if you can find one and there is still plenty of spare parts and advice available from Matt at Cosworth. I bought mine used from a guy in Northern Ireland who put his car back to stock. Keep an eye on the Facebook groups, seems to be the best way to find rare used parts.

It’s like a well tuned soundstage that lets you hear every instrument. I was amazed at how much of the car gets drowned out by the louder exhausts. Glad you like it and well worth the long term investment?

You’re going to enjoy it! Just make sure you throw it round some corners to be certain the centre silencer doesn’t hit the transmission tunnel as it’s a very tight fit.

Well it won’t hurt lol

Someone after more power? Just get the rods changed and put the small pulley on so you can crank up the boost.

Thanks Deacon, I’ve used a sheet of Perspex that covers the oil cooler. Managed to cut a slot in the under tray so that it slides in under the bumper hidden from view. Guess you can’t do that if you’re running aero/ splitters or just too damn low. The oil gets temperature much sooner now and it sits at 89c stable. Also a bonus is the coolant gets warmer sooner as well because it partially blocks air flow to the radiator.

Yes penny washers with the original springs and longer bolts will give you more wiggle room to get it sealed up.

I had similar issues sorting this before. From memory one side goes easy then the other, I think one points more towards the transmission tunnel and that one I usually do up loosely first. Then you can get the other spring bolt in before buttoning both of them down. One is always tighter then the other. I’ve not seen the joint that the Scorpion uses but when I fitted a Tuning Developments exhaust I had to get some longer bolts and penny washers from B&Q instead.

Yes that makes and it which case you’d gain more from it during road driving because you won’t have the coolant temps above 90c unless you have being racing the engine a lot.

It allows forced induction cars to run a little cooler which in turn allows a little more ignition advance, the same is true for NA but to a lesser extent. It also means more coolant flow at lower temps which in turn should keep the engine cooler when out on track.

Yeah it bleeds oil through to maintain consistent pressure. I did think about a JDM plate but that leaves the holes in the bumper exposed. You are right you do need to oil up to temp to burn off water and fuel in the oil. That’s my excuse for driving it hard every now and then. I’ve already got the 90c stat in the oil cooler, so I just need to create a way to block off the cooler.

My charge cooler temps are the same as yours 10-20c above IAT but stay stable through the rev range. My engine coolant is lower because of the mishimoto thermostat that opens at 76c instead of the oem 88c. It’s part of the Cosworth setup to run a lower temp thermostat. I guess the Harrop uses the oem one?

How did you blank it off? I was thinking of using some Perspex and sliding it in front on the oil cooler. What temp are your thermostatic switches in the oil cooler?