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Posts posted by sam534
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Wow yes that's bad, that's 3k in parts? Should be very minimal labour.
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Deleted, incorrect
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Do they use the same blue coolant?I had a similar thing with coolant. The cost for five litres from Subaru was only about the same as one litre from Toyota.
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Yeah 1.5 tanks of fuel on a track day is what I use on a standard engine and tune
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkAngelina reacted to this -
If you fancy trying out a second decat pipe I have a blitz for sale, still pass mot and no cel. 100 quid based in derby.
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Although it's only so old years wise, it's had 143k miles of heat so that may be what's causing embrittlment. But doesn't sound good...
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Carbon won't be repairable without filling and painting over. You can fill in the damage with resin that will stop it cracking but you won't be able to put in new weave
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Carbon won't be repairable without filling and painting over. You can fill in the damage with resin that will stop it cracking but you won't be able to put in new weave
Sent from my COL-L29 using TapatalkDeacon reacted to this -
Right, so the first 16 clicks from full stiff actually do anything?
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I hear people say there is 16 clicks of adjustment but I can click mine 32 times?
I use 14 from full stuff on road and play on track but start at 8 front and 6 rear.
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Engine undertray maybeHello folks,
I recently posted a video about some issues I've been having with my GT86 -
In that video I speak of a rattle that I've had for a good month or so now, it seems to happen around the 3000-3500 rpm mark, or rather when the vibration from the engine is a little higher than usual - it sounds like a part vibrating on metal, from the left underside of the car. I imagine it to be something like the exhaust vibrating on something and I originally thought it to be a nut vibrating somewhat, people have mentioned the rattles you get in the GT86, I have them too but this is a little different. It seems to happen more so when the car is cold, but it does happen when it's warm too just not as often (it could be just as often but my music drowning it out)
I spoke with the chap who's helped fit a fair few of my parts and he recommended to smack the backbox a little bit in case a baffle had worked its way loose, but given it's under the left hand side of the car I wouldn't be surprised if it was exhaust related (stock exhaust atm).
Other people have cited it could be a mount, or a hanger for the exhaust.
Anyone had this issue before or something similar, any ideas as to what it could be?
Thanks in advance folks
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Bump
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What’s your hookup for ado8rs Will? I need a new pair.
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Make an offer if you wish
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35 i am based in derby, i also have the glass.
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I’ve got a single white one for the left wing mirror
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Thats close, too close i would say and definitely could be your noise, you could use jubilee clips on the exhaust hangers to create a gap so the rubbers cant move may hold it away from the subframe thereThanks Sam, I've just tried playing with it a bit and had some limited success.
I moved the exhaust and rubber guides as far right as I could, took it on a test drive and i got through the whole rev range in a couple of gears without any of the tin-can sound at all, but a couple of minutes later it was back. So I think the integrity of the exhaust is fine, and it is rattling against something when under load.
It is right up against the heat-shield (touching it), is this normal? The heat shield doesn't seem to be lose.
My other thought is that the exhaust passes very close to this part of the chassis (image attached/below), the photo is looking towards front of the car. So if the exhaust is off to the left and then vibrating under acceleration then i may well be hearing it collide with the chassis.
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Could be a heat shield, the catalytic converter cells rattling around inside its case because it’s detached or a loose bolt.
Not much you can do without getting under the car. Unsafe unless you use jack stands or at least put a wheel under the sill, especially using the jack from the boot.
I’d take it to a local Independent garage get it in the air and ask them if you can take a look. If their not busy good chance you won’t get charged.
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Point is OP is experiencing brake fade on pads that are limited in performance
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Ebc yellowstuff/pfc z/ds2500/stoptech sport are all trying to do the job of road and track, they are limited on track, if your braking hard and often they will fade. Maybe not fully to the point of no braking but they will fade
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Getting some brake fade there mate, i get that on standard calipers and pfc z pads. Time for some proper pads such as pfc 08s
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Oops forgot to include that! £100
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Gt86 decat pipe £100, takes out the second cat, no issues with mot or cel at this is after the exhaust sensors. Flanges and hanger in good condition, no cracks, welds in good condition, bit grubby but its a pipe under the car, doesnt need to be shiny.
Located in Derby, collection very much prefered.
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Ad08rs are a very wide tyreDrive them from stone cold today to the local tyre place to get some new tyres fitted. Braking performance from cold seems fine and there was no noise which I'd expected from a lot of the reviews I'd read.
225/45/17 AD08RS's fitted to the Konig's. I was concerned they'd be a bit too stretched as it's a 9" wheel but they are fine and look similar to the stretch of my 225/40/18 PS4's on my 8" wide wheels
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Deacon reacted to this
Recall issued on cars to have valve springs replaced 2012-2013
in Mechanical
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Very good point, could be machined depends on the scoring
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