Lucas

Put it that way, aluminium nuts are good enough, depending on what grade material they're made of. I can't say a bad thing about Mishimoto nuts in terms of strength, but the colour won't last. They fade pretty badly. Hence RAYS dura nuts & steel nuts are our best sellers.
https://www.part-box.com/rays-steel-locking-wheel-nuts-m12x1-25-black-17hnlm12x1-25-5hbk?search=rays wheel nuts&description=true&sort=p.price&order=DESC
https://www.part-box.com/rays-dura-nuts-l42-long-straight-type-wheel-lug-nuts-m12x125-red-dlssl42m12x125rd?search=rays wheel nuts&description=true&sort=p.price&order=DESC
 

These NE24 wheels have been released today. Available in 18" options only.
FOR GT86/BRZ you'd be looking at 3 options:
18x8 ET45 (Face1) - £3126.86 (Matte Gun Black) / £3250.29 (Shining Black Metal)
18x8.5 ET42 (Face2) - £3168 (Matte Gun Black) / £3291.43 (Shining Black Metal)
18x9.5 ET43 (Face3) - £3250.29 (Matte Gun Black) / £3373.71 (Shining Black Metal)
Centre caps, spigot rings and wheel nuts are optional extra. Only air valves are included.
Description from Japan below:
Entering a new generation of sports wheels.
Designed with a racing-based name for the first time in seven years, the new NE24 is a wheel that transforms conventional ideas and evokes a feel of "entering a new phase."
The name of this new series consists of "N" deriving from the VOLK RACING Gr.N —the roots of the developed wheel, or Group N, the racing class for stock cars with a minimum level of modifications—and "E," the common initial for the existing series such as TE, CE, and ZE, meaning "evolution."

2021 will probably be a year of impact in a sense. A great number of new exciting cars are scheduled to be released by Japanese manufacturers. Also, there appears to be a flood of upcoming European C-segment sports models. These cars are elite vehicles that have been developed to compete on the global stage, and therefore wheels to be fitted to such vehicles need to match their novelty.
We never tried to be eccentric but still sought for something new to configure the 2x4 spoke of the NE24. Indeed, in an attempt to create an unconventional geometry, we not only secured sufficient mass at the center area, but also reduced the number of spokes while keeping a necessary volume at the centre fastening area and rim joint area. Especially for the outer circumference, we adopted a high-performance design assuming that the wheel is used in combination with a tire with hard specifications.
Making this design feasible essentially required steadily repeated trial and error by RAYS R&D Analytical Team. The skills to give shape to something new were necessary. In addition, using the latest forging technology also helped to achieve the delicate and slight spike. The undercut of the spoke was employed with a further increased level difference. This design is intended to ensure a stereoscopic look even when the narrow size is used.
A new thing is created by embodying something difficult to realise. We will tackle the creation of new styling and performance of street wheels, leveraging our skills and experience that have been acquired through design and development of racing wheels. We will produce both racing wheels and street wheels from the same team members and from the same factory. This is the world of VOLK RACING.


Forum discount can be applied as well.

Don't report me, Will! 😂

Don't report me, Will! 😂

Hi, it should work now. Reload the page. Backorders weren't allowed on this product for some reason.

@Kaltorak hit Ctrl + F5 to refresh the page Cache. I checked the link and it worked for me in Chrome, then tired it in Firefox and it had the same issue you've got, but refreshing the page fixed it.

Yup, that got it. Flagged it to chat and they mentioned a lot of people have had the issue, I'll share your fix with them

One from the other week.
y
 

Look what arrived today! 17x9 Face 3 TE37 Saga. Thanks @Lucas@PartBox!

Weigh in : 7.7 kg
Can finally get the Flex A suspension and AP racing BBK on with these. Just need to get tyres and a few other bits.
Do 245/40 Michelin PS4 sound about right?

Hello Dave, welcome aboard.
I've had my car seven years and have driven 148,000 miles in it from new. In that time I've had the opportunity to try different tyres. I've also driven a fair amount of other people's GT86's too. 
I kept the Primacy tyre for the first 25,000 miles or so. I think it's good to learn the balance of the car with this tyre. You can play with it at low speeds and it's a lot of fun, bringing out the playful nature of what is an excellent and well balanced chassis. The Primacy tyre is also fantastic fun on track if you so wish. After about 4 laps they go off, but stay consistent and you can just slide and drift the car all day. They last really well too. 
That said, they aren't the most progressive tyre and it can be a bit tricky in the wet. Yes in low temperatures in greasy conditions they can prove tricky, though that is true of any tyre. 
Everyone will tell you to fit Michelin Pilot 4 tyres. Whilst they are a great tyre, they take away from the playfulness of the chassis. They are a a great choice if you are not a confident or experienced driver as for the most part they will totally tame the car and you'll feel more confident. I have these on my car because I sprint my car and they are the most competitive tyre in class, giving around a 1.5-2 second advantage on a sprint lap. Yes, at high speeds you can still slide the car and have fun, providing you are committed, but the speeds at which you do this mean that you will not really be able to do so on the public road. 
The PS4 is great in the wet too. In fact they are utterly brilliant in the wet, a point I have underlined whenever it is wet in the Toyota Sprint Series, which will see all of us running them at the top of the leaderboard. 
I like the PS4, it's a great tyre. But, you have to push it to have fun on the road. 
Another really good choice is the Yokohama Advan Sport V105. I have gone through 5 sets of these and would have carried on with them were it not for them not being competitive in the sprint series I compete in. They are perhaps the best balance between grip and playfullness for the GT86. They are more progressive than the Primacy but not as grippy as the PS4. This means you can still have fun drifting a roundabout or on a decent B-road blast. They do really well on track too and  you can slide the car around just as well as the Primacy. 
If I wasn't competing in the sprint series I would run a V105 instead of a PS4. It makes the car far more fun to drive. 
The other point to note is that I use stock 215/45/17 sizes albeit on a forged lightweight 17x8 wheel. If you like to play with the chassis do not make the mistake putting on wider tyres. All it does is detract from the fun and add unsprung weight. 

@davbelfast if you don't even have the car yet, I would recommend running the standard Primacy tyres for a few months. When you learn to control the car on those tyres, you won't have to get better tyre purely out of fear like most here do... Sure, there are good tyres like Michelin PS4, but they cost a lot, and take away from the tail happiness and the fun factor of the car imho. I just think that you need to learn to drive the car the best you can with "bad" tyres, so when you're ready to put new good tyres on, you're a better driver and you don't rely on tyres so much, but more on your throttle control and steering.

@davbelfast if you don't even have the car yet, I would recommend running the standard Primacy tyres for a few months. When you learn to control the car on those tyres, you won't have to get better tyre purely out of fear like most here do... Sure, there are good tyres like Michelin PS4, but they cost a lot, and take away from the tail happiness and the fun factor of the car imho. I just think that you need to learn to drive the car the best you can with "bad" tyres, so when you're ready to put new good tyres on, you're a better driver and you don't rely on tyres so much, but more on your throttle control and steering.

Leave it on Primacy tyres, they're way more fun

Hello and welcome! I have a black one too, it's not a very popular colour in my opinion, so it's nice to see another one on the forum. If you decide to modify it in the future, give me a shout, I'm sure i'll be able to point you in the right direction, and don't forget to ask for a coupon code to use on our website. https://www.part-box.com/gt86

AWESOME! Like the new look a lot.

Want to order longer wheel nuts as well now for my CR57, but think of L32 instead. Need to decide on colour (was also thinking blue, but don't know if they would look ok with grey car - may be black again).

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Pictures of the full car:
 

Pictures of the wheel fitment on the car:
 

Update 10/04/2020 - Easter Weekend Jobs - Part 2: Fitting Wheels
In february this year I posted my car goals for the year, the first goal was: 1. Order a set of forged wheels. I must have spent 18 months looking for a new set of wheels to swap over from the 949 Racing wheels prior to this, as I wanted a new look. I've always wanted to fit a set of forged wheels to the car and there are a couple of sets that I really like, these are:
1. Rays Volks TE37 Saga in Bronze, size: 17x9 +42
2. Rays Volks ZE40 in Bronze, size: 18x9 +40
3. Titan 7 TS5 in Satin Titanium, size: 17x9 +37
Owning a set of Rays would be the dream as they are highly regarded as the top wheel manufacturer in the JDM market and being a massive JDM fan this means a lot to me. 
I'd originally spoke to @Lucas@PartBox a while ago about a set of Rays, he informed that a set of Rays Volks (either wheel) would mean spending atleast of £3K on a set, which I wasn't keen on. I therefore looked into importing a set from Japan, however with shipping, taxes and import duty they'd probably end up near enough the same price, plus should there be anything wrong with the wheels it'd be a massive pain to sort out and I wasn't going to pay £2K+ for a set of wheels with no UK contact. Because of this, it basically put an end to the idea of ordering a set of Rays. 
The third option is from a relatively new company in the form of Titan 7, they sell a wheel called: TS5, these looked ideal however I wanted something vibrant after running a black wheel for a couple of years. Whilst Titan 7 offer a Bronze finish, they only do this for selected fitments and weren't prepared to offer this on the 86/BRZ fitment, typically they once did a limited run of the bronze in the past, which I missed out on. This left a Satin Titanium finish, which is extremely nice in itself, however it wasn't what I was really after. Whilst I could get these from a UK seller I wasn't 100% sure on them due to colour and my thoughts being if I'm buying forged wheels I'd rather buy Rays. 
This ultimately left me with a dilemma, do I spend over £3K on a set of Rays or do I bin the idea? In february I decided to ask @Lucas@PartBox what Rays wheels Partbox had instock for the 86/BRZ or could get relevately quickly. They had a set of blue Gramlights 57DR in 18x9.5 +38 wheels in stock, again this wasn't what I wanted but Lucas did say they could get a number of 57CR's in various colours in within a month, colours being: Sakura Pink, Gold, Bronze, Semi-Gloss Black, Black Chrome and Gunmetal Blue. Knowing several other members are running these wheels I wasn't sure on the idea, as I wanted something different. After some google-fu I found out the 57CR's in 17x9 only weight 8.2KG, this changed my mind on these wheels and I realised they actually make alot of sense, it's a wheel in a size I've run before, no-one else in the UK 86/BRZ community was running this wheel in that size (that I'm aware of, at that time anyway) as everyone goes for 18" version, they are relatively light for a cast wheel and good value at only £1200 and once I've added tyres and accessories it'd come in at under £2k, which was a much nicer figure. Now the choice was which colour do I go for, I'd looked at the 57CR's in the past and wanted them in either Gold or White, as white wasn't available this left only one colour choice Gold. A quick confirmation with Lucas and the wheels were ordered. Less than a month later, to both our surprise Lucas informed me the wheels had arrived. I then sealed the wheels using G-Techniq W5 Wheel Armour and overcoated with G-Techniq Exo V4. 
In the mean time I ordered some Rays Dura-Nuts L42 wheel nuts in Blue, Gramlight 57CR center caps in blue & black chrome, Rays metal spigot rings and Rays blue valve caps from Nengun Performance in Japan, along with a set of black (D4S) TRD fender fins. I've wanted a set of fender fins for a while, ideally in carbon however they stopped producing these a couple of years ago, this left black as the next logical colour. Typically these parts took much longer to arrive than the wheels as there was a delay with the production of the fender fins. I also had a shipping issue, I ordered the parts before the CoronaVirus fully hit and used a work address, when I found out the parts had been shipped I had to get this swapped to my home address and yet typically the courier still tried to deliver it to the work address despite being expressly told to change it. A few days later the parts arrived and I could begin fitting them.
Now from some photos, firstly the wheels and tyres:
 
 

Is there a club discount for standard products.

I'm after some coilovers

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Front Spring Rate: 171 in/lbs 

Rear Spring Rate: 234 in/lbs
here's a link to where I got them, @Lucas@PartBox. Very quick delivery.
https://www.part-box.com/whiteline-lowering-springs-25mm-drop-toyota-gt86-subaru-brz-wsk-sub006

The last few weekends have been spent wiring up and figuring out the best locations for all the various bits and pieces needed for the accusump, AIM MXP dash and the Motec ECU

I’m was not a fan of the Binder connections that came standard on the AIM looms, their an absolute pain to wire/solder so I converted any connections I’m using to Deutsch DTM, and likewise any wiring running to the engine bay has DTMs on that side of the bulkhead so that everything can be easily disconnected.



I’ve also made sure that the accusump wiring allows easy removal of the relays and fuses within the engine bay and I picked up a 12” extension for the schrader valve so that it can be routed to a spot that will make topping up the air side of accumsump a doddle in the engine bay.

The way I’ve wired it only requires one relay to be pulled and a small bridge installed to default the full setup back to the basic pressure switch setup. If the need arises it will be a 2 min job trackside.

Next up was finding a home for the Motec M150. Unfortunately because the roll cage footing sits where the standard ECU would normal be mounted in the passenger foot-well it was not possible to fit the Motec there, in fact the OEM ecu has always just been hanging freely off the loom so not ideal regardless.

I decided the glove box was probably a good location for the M150 and it would keep everything nicely out of the way.

In order to route the Motec loom so that it could pick up the standard ECU header I had to cut the side out of the glovebox and also make a bracket to mount the M150 on.





After some fettling and a little bit of paint on the bracket it was sitting nicely in the glovebox. I also pinned out an extra CAN output from the ECU to run to the MXP dash, and while at that I created a new lead to extend the Lambda to CAN module so that it can be mounted in the engine bay where I’ll be putting a new Bosch wideband Lambda Sensor in the exhaust header.

The Short block eventually has landed back from the machine shop with the shiny new rods and pistons installed.





First up was to build up the heads which have been skimmed and lightly ported, The valve seats were also cleaned and valve shoulders re-cut so I was concerned that valve clearance may not be correct even though  any changes were accounted for by adjusting the valve stem length.





Unfortunately with the heads reassembled and clearances checked multiple times, there were quite a few out of tolerance.

I want to have all the valves clearances not just in spec but sitting at exactly the same clearance, so I’m currently waiting on Toyota to get the exact shim sizes into stock. It held me me up a little on building up the heads but I wanted them perfect.

There is also a know issue with valve seat compression where the valve clearance on some newer low mileage cars actually go out of spec (tighten) and cause major issues and perhaps that was the case with this engine.

Another issue I came across was that one of the oil control valves in the heads was actually damaged, they are essentially a small strainer that restricts oil flow into the heads. I’m not sure how it happened perhaps during my cleaning, but regardless I’ve replaced all four of them in the two heads.



While waiting for the shims to complete the heads, I cracked on with the other end of the engine, fitting the lower cradle and new larger diameter pickup tube. Aside for that I spent an awful lot of time cleaning and degreasing parts and wire brushing bolts to clean the threads for reinstall! You really don’t see much progress for a full Saturdays works.



As the heads are made up of three parts I was able to go ahead and torque up the mains with the ARP studs and nuts, and new thicker Cosworth head gaskets.
The ARPs are torqued up to 95Ft.lbs each and it feels a little sketchy as it’s so much force but they all got there in the end.

While at it I also disassembled the oil pressure relief valve to inspect it and make sure there was no debris from the porting that had been done on the oil galleries in the front cover.
 

 
As I couldn't really progress any further with the engine build until the new shims arrived I turned my attention back to the car and its current engine and gearbox.
 
Safe to say I’m covered from gearboxes anyway. Although I’m really hoping the PAR straight cut gear set in the second gearbox in the photo below will mean I don’t need the backups any time soon!!
 

 
Next up was to take the HKS supercharger off the existing engine, as I didn’t want to drain down the cooler, filter etc as the HKS oil is just stupid money and I’m not near needing an oil change, I opted to take the entire front off the car and managed to remove almost all the setup intact without breaking any lines.
 
To be fair removing the engine and installing the new one is much easier with the front off anyway.
 

 
While at it I removed the restrictor plate that the supercharger is currently running with, and you can see from the grime how much larger the intake will now be!
 

 
With all that removed the existing engine was ready to be lifted out. I also needed to swap over a few bits and pieces that were modified to fit the supercharger originally so I planned to do that while all engines are out on stands.
 

Eventually I got around to lifting the original engine out of the car and sitting beside the new short block
 

 
Unfortunately the progress after this was not a swift as I hoped. I ran into quite a bit of difficulty trying to get the valve clearances correct. Toyota love me, this is the First round of shims I bought off them!!
 

 
Essentially I built up the engine with the first set of shims installed, all clearances were within spec, and I got as far as setting the timing.
 

 
At this point I rotated the engine by hand and rechecked the clearances only to find they were out of spec, some by a significant margin. I came to the conclusion that the valves with the new springs installed had seated properly when they were rotated through a full rotation of the cams. So hence back to Toyota for round 2 and another lot of shims!
 
A further 10 shims later, at 13 Euro each and suffice to say the heads had worked out quiet expensive.
 
It took a few weeks to get beyond the valve issue, and it was a real pain to have the engine assembled only to have to take it apart again, but at least now I can claim I’ve built the engine twice!!
 

 

 
I also got another attack of the “While your in there” and bought theses
 

 

 
DW 900cc Injectors (Thanks to [mention=2716]Lucas@PartBox[/mention] and a DW 65c (265 lph) pump which should keep the injector duty cycle sensible and ensure the fuel pressure doesn’t drop off at the top end. As the engine is 12:1 comp ratio and will be running unrestricted it may take a little enriching to keep knock in check.

More recently progress have been slow and unfortunately the 86 has started to fight back...
 
First up was the install of the new straight cut gearbox, I must have spent 8 hrs under the car trying to align it. The pilot bearing alignment is a real pain on these cars and as it turned out my improvised alignment tool which has worked previously didn’t like the combination of a slightly worn clutch plate. So I had to wait a week for the specific Subaru alignment tool to arrive, and luckily it did the job and within an hour the gearbox was fitted. (Lesson learned on just buying the right tool for the job!)
 
Next was a fight with the exhaust manifold, after taking it off the car it lay on the floor for about 2 months. However when I went to install it onto the new engine it just wouldn’t fit, nor would it fit the old engine, so clearly it had deformed while sitting off the car, presumably from heat cycling and residual stress.
 
I tried spreading the flange plates with a bottle jack but it just won’t hold a shape and keeps springing back regardless of how much pressure I put it under. So unfortunately I’ve had to purchase a new manifold which I’m waiting on. While at it I’ve decided to take the plunge and change out the only remaining piece of OEM exhaust which was the front pipe with contains a secondary CAT, so I’m going replace it with a new twin resonated HKS front pipe.
 

 
The final punch was the coolant system, and I have to take responsibility for this one, about 3 yrs ago I noticed the car was low on coolant while on track. At the time I kindly got some coolant off a Friend to keep me going. 
I gambled that it would probably be OK, but I wasn’t aware just how unique the coolant was in the GT86 and that it would react so badly with the topup.
 
Unfortunately while taking apart the existing coolant system I’ve noticed that it is full of red silt and it’s pretty well much stuck to every surface. By comparison the donor cars coolant system was squeaky clean after 20k miles
 
As the car sits now I’ve installed the donor cars radiator and piping, and reinstalled the supercharger
 

 
However having thought on it some more I was not happy that the heater matrix will still be a source of silt and I can’t flush it out sufficiently so I’m going to bypass it. 
 
As this will put a little more pressure on the coolant system I’ve decided to upgrade the radiator to a high capacity Mishimoto Radiator and add their upgraded shroud with larger fans, to be fair the OEM radiator is very thin....so the front end will be coming off again once they arrive, assuming COVID doesn't get them first!!!!!  Thanks again to Part-Box for the latest round of purchases too [mention=2716]Lucas@PartBox[/mention]