spikyone

A little dirty - OK, very dirty - and I actually took this a couple of weeks ago.  One thing Toyota got right with the GR86 was giving it a lip spoiler instead of the fussy OEM ones that came on the GT86.

Do we have the same car? Exactly the 2 rattles that drive me mad, although my glovebox rattles and so does the gear lever. I'm driving a 13 year old Micra at the minute and it genuinely rattles less than my car.
I find when you are rattling hunting this works quite well (especially if you have a subwoofer). Download a frequency generator app on your phone then connect to your headunit with bluetooth, run the frequency app and play specific frequencies through your speakers, I've found that as you scroll down through the frequency range 400Hz and lower, you trigger all sorts of rattles to start, then you can hunt them down at your leisure rather than trying to figure it out whilst driving.
 

Harrop supercharger and Rogue Motorsport EL manifold.  I previously had the Tuning Developments manifold.  Martin on here had his Harrop fitted with his existing TD manifold a few months before me and was concerned the engine bay was getting a bit hot, as the TD manifold loops up into the bay, so he switched to the Rogue manifold around the time I booked in to get the SC fitted.  I saw his pictures and got serious manifold envy, so I ended up going the same route.

If you didn’t track your car would you still have done it? Also that thread had a lot of useful info thanks for that!

I suppose it depends what you mean by better.  I take my car on track so under-bonnet temperatures were more of a concern, and seeing Martin's comments on his thread I felt that there would be a benefit in swapping.  I also had the same issue where the TD manifold was tight against the front of the engine.  No issues and when I asked Mike at TD about it he said it was normal, but having it out of the way felt like a benefit.  I also thought the Rogue looked nicely engineered.  I still need to get around to selling my TD manifold too, which should recoup some of the cost.  Since it was done at the same time as the SC and some other work the cost was less noticeable.

Harrop supercharger and Rogue Motorsport EL manifold.  I previously had the Tuning Developments manifold.  Martin on here had his Harrop fitted with his existing TD manifold a few months before me and was concerned the engine bay was getting a bit hot, as the TD manifold loops up into the bay, so he switched to the Rogue manifold around the time I booked in to get the SC fitted.  I saw his pictures and got serious manifold envy, so I ended up going the same route.

My car has passed an MOT emissions test with a supercharger and just the secondary cat.  So if you were to go turbo, that should also pass emissions.  The issue with only one cat is getting the secondary cat hot enough, which a turbo/SC will help with.  You shouldn't need a new exhaust unless you're going for very high power, at which point you'd be looking at strengthening the engine's internals - you will most likely need forged rods before you need a higher flowing exhaust.
In terms of enough grip, Michelin PS4 (I guess that's what you mean) are very good.  Someone was actually running SC with the stock Primacy tyres, which seems like madness to me and was probably enough to focus the attention when it's cold and wet.  I'm on slightly wider PS4, and there is plenty of grip.  The big advantages I've found with PS4 are better wet/cold weather performance, and a more progressive feel when they start losing grip; the feel through them is far better than the Primacy tyres that (to me) always felt like there was a very fine line between on the limit and over the limit.  I'd be happy to run SC with stock wheels on PS4.

Grey looks good with gunmetal wheels.  Not really a fan of black ones though.  A polished lip definitely helps, IMO.

 
 

I've got my 60k service coming up soon so I've ordered a set of Delicious Tuning Blue OEM+ coilpacks for when the plugs are changed.  Thought it worth having done at the same time as I'd like the best spark possible for pickup and response with the Harrop.
Delicious OEM+ (4) Coil Packs - MY15+ (Blue) | Delicious Tuning
Abbey will be doing the work as usual.

I'd get the gearbox oil changed to something decent. Abbey put Millers gear oil in mine and that really improved the shifting feel. Shouldn't be too expensive, and can only help. 
Ask them to install MTEC shift springs too. They really make a difference to shift quality, they center the gearstick with more force which makes shifts across the centre of the gate easier and more precise. Perhaps what you're feeling is the stick catching on the gate slightly as you shift into third...before the shift springs if I shifted too quickly from 2nd to 3rd it was sometimes possible to stick on the gate between 1st and 3rd...the stronger MTEC springs help with that by applying a stronger centring force to the stick. 

That's shocking!  Weirdly I've just been getting quotes for another car; Admiral wanted £495 and Flux wanted over £1000.  I'm 41!  So it seems you need the right circumstances to hit their sweet spot.
From what others have said you may not get hit too hard, and it's always worth calling Admiral and asking them to advise you what the premium would be so that you know beforehand.  They should be able to tell you whether they'll cover it, and how much it will cost.
I can highly recommend the NA package from TD, there is a good reason why so many owners have gone down that route 👍

I was insured through a broker (Chris Knott and then Adrian Flux) whilst mine had the NA tune.  Neither of those wanted anything extra to cover the NA tune.  Up to 10% extra bhp was free.  If you're old enough and have owned your car for at least a year, I found those two cheaper even without modifications.

An aftermarket shift spring and gearbox bushing might help.  They noticeably improve the shift quality - more than you would think is possible - and don't cost a fortune.  Your profile says you're in Croydon, so maybe have a word with @Mark@Abbey M/S, they're right on your doorstep and know the GT86 very well.  The bushing apparently increases noise, but I had other stuff fitted at the same time so couldn't tell you how bad it is.
(ETA - they don't particularly change the slight obstructiveness when cold though)

Well if you do have to wait a bit, you can always console yourself with the fact that you're doing fairly ok already at 21 driving a stock 86.
Got my first car at 25. A 45bhp 1 litre Polo 🤣

I realise that for most of you this is going to be preaching to the choir, but after running the Tuning Developments NA package for 6 weeks or so and getting a few road miles and a track day under my belt, I thought I'd share my experiences for anyone that's considering having their car upgraded.
 
I had the install completed just before Christmas; I stayed in Runcorn at a very cheap hotel, and made my way over to Warrington at 9am.  The work took until about 2pm to complete, including TD's own catback and the MTEC shift springs/Powerflex gearbox insert combination.  I spent some time talking to @Mike@TD.co.uk whilst the work was being done and it's clear that he knows his stuff with GT86s.  He kept me updated with how the work was going, and also kindly took me for a passenger ride in the turbo GT86 
After a couple of post-install dyno runs and a road test, I took the keys back and prepared for the long journey down the M6/M5.  Just pulling out of the estate where TD are based it was obvious that the engine revved more freely.  Spending a bit more time with the package since then has only reinforced that initial impression.  Even keeping the revs below the old torque dip the engine response feels more immediate.  The real benefits become obvious once you get over 3500rpm though.  Plant your right foot at 30mph in 3rd gear, as you might do on a sliproad, and the car pulls effortlessly all the way to the national limit.  Whilst you'll see a ~10% gain in peak power over a standard car, the real improvements come at 4000rpm where you have 25% more torque, and the torque level is almost constant from 3000 - 6750rpm, rather than 4750 - 6750.  It practically doubles the width of the power band, and as you'd imagine the result is like driving a different car.  You can keep the engine in its sweet spot without running it to the redline in every gear
An added bonus of the flexibility is that it allows you even more potential to exploit the chassis balance and adjustability on the road.  The extra torque means that you have more options coming out of a corner.  I was always a fan of the way that you can neutralise understeer with the right amount of throttle input, and the flat torque curve and sharper throttle response really helps that characteristic shine.
On track the gains are less obvious but still there.  At track speeds you would normally have been above the dip anyway, but at Donington a couple of weeks back we had quite a wet morning.  I didn't know the circuit, and combined with the rain (and the need to drive home afterwards!) I was fairly cautious early on.  As well as taking less corner speed, I was shifting at lower revs.  The ability to upshift early without dropping into the dip meant that I didn't feel I was losing too much by doing that.  I'm looking forward to getting back to Castle Combe at some point too.  Last time out I was short-shifting to 5th before Folly to avoid an upshift through the corner, and the improved torque curve should mean that it's not so costly to do that.
As I mentioned after the installation, I also found that fitting the NA package didn't increase my insurance premium, which is through one of the brokers in the Insurance section.
 
As for the other changes to the car, the catback has given the exhaust note a nice throaty bass in day-to-day driving.  It was initially a little harsher and had a slight drone at motorway speeds, but has mellowed nicely over time and is now quite tuneful.  I can happily listen to music at a sensible volume, without the exhaust drowning it out.  On track it really sings with a lovely race car note.
The MTEC springs and Powerflex gearbox insert have made a surprisingly big difference for such an affordable modification.  Cold-start 2nd gear issues aside, I'd always thought the GT86 has a very good shift from the factory.  That the springs and insert have improved on it so noticeably is seriously impressive.  It has a really positive feel, and the weight and precision are nothing short of exceptional.
 
I wouldn't hesitate to recommend both Tuning Developments and the NA package.  The install looks great quality, Mike and Nick know their stuff, and it really is excellent value.

I was on my mobile and in bed when I posted that; https://www.willtheyfit.com/ can show you how the fitment of a wheel will change compared to stock.  The standard wheels on our cars are a 17x7J, ET48 (wheel diameter x wheel width, offset) with a 215/45 tyre (tread width/profile).
Just as an aside, there's nothing wrong with a staggered setup (wider rears than fronts) from a technical point of view, many sports cars/supercars use that, but the stock setup isn't staggered so you just need to be aware that you will change the handling balance if you go that route and even turbo/SC you wouldn't need to go staggered.

They won't fit, you need a 5x100 bolt pattern and these are 5x120. Also these are two different widths (8" front, 9" rear), so you'll end up with wider rear tyres and understeer.
Looks like you can get the same wheels in 5x100 though, pop "bola b9 5x100" into Google and have a look through those. I'd recommend reading up on wheel fitment/sizing first, as it'll help you understand what you're buying. There are online calculators that can show you if the wheels will fit.

It's not different enough for me, and I'm with @Varelco that the design is less attractive than the current car.
I do wonder who will buy it. If you didn't buy into the ethos of the original GT86, are you going to be interested in this? And if you did buy into it, are you going to upgrade to what's essentially a major facelift? It'll be a hard sell.
Different as they are, I don't think I'd walk past a GR Yaris for the GR86.

I can't get my head around the looks, to me the design looks older than the outgoing model and the proportions don't look right. The ride height with those 18s is awful, its jacked up, the bonnet line looks higher, the squarer headlights and frumpy boot pushes the whole car up, its gone from a sports car to a coupe (think 2 series, c class). That dashboard looks fit for a 4x4 or a pickup. I don't think there is any threat of me moving my GT86 along

We should probably move this to Events, and try to agree on a date before they are all booked up.
Who else is interested ?

Either way can be a lot of fun. As a group day we can ask him to customise the training more specifically for what you would want to get out of it - once you are over the basics, plus  you get to compete against cars similar to yours rather than something like a 700hp McLaren in the final circuit trials  ;).  But I've done it on my own too and enjoyed meeting the other drivers, some times we jump in each other's car as a passenger. Depending on your particular level of car control you may also get to do slightly different things. Like when all the new guys were practicing braking I was doing variations on exiting the high speed bend and so on.

Mark (formerly of Car Limits) is back doing Handling days and Activity days at the North Weald Airfield.
I did a few of these days and they are fantastic for learning car control at and over the grip limit in a safe environment.
  4 people instruction days are £ 225 per person
  20 people Activity days are £80 per person  
http://drivelimits.com

Yeah I knew what you meant. I can't even use an extension lead from my house to the car; it's one of those new build estates and my car's in front of my garage, which isn't attached to my house. I can't have a power supply in the garage as it's under a coach house (fortunate, after the idiot who lives there flooded it a couple of weeks ago!)
The battery's already dead, I just wanted to turn the alarm off so it doesn't sound whilst the jump starter is connected, seems stupid to have the car doing stuff that uses the charge (sounding the alarm and flashing the indicators) when the battery's already low. You'd think that it would detect the key being in/near the car and stop the alarm activating.

I've got exactly the same problem, new battery last year now dead. I can't seem to disable the alarm, there is a keypad in the glovebox that should correspond to the code in the alarm manual. Doesn't seem to work for me.
My jump starter also doesn't seem to work this time, it shuts itself off within a couple seconds. I'm going to have another attempt using jump leads and another vehicle soon!

Might be worth investing in a CTEK charger and keep the connectors on. Use it to charge the battery every few weeks. Buy a 7.5A one not 5A as that takes 12 hrs to charge, so too slow in my opinion.

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