spikyone

Delivered back from storage after a couple of years tucked away. 

Set the alarm for half-five and went out for a drive this morning. Sacrificed a lie in. Didn't regret it.

Hi All, I'm Lisa, and I became the proud owner of a Galaxy Blue GT86 on Friday. 
I discovered this club as the Dealer I was buying the car from was struggling to source a new gearknob, so searched the owners clubs as they are always a fantastic source of information and parts. @Gregski had exactly what I needed. The previous owner used the car as dog transport, and seems the dog used the gearknob as a chew toy.
Just grabbed a couple of photos of my 86 for you.
With every car I've owned, I've always joined the owners club as they are always a wealth of information, as well as parts, meets and of course, friendly people. 
Look forward to reading about your builds, mods, meets etc.
Take care,
Lisa

Sounds similar to mine Martin, I have the Reyland kit with their own discs, with braided lines and stock calipers/Cossie pads at the back. I think I had the PFCs on the front beforehand, though that's going back a while now. I'm perfectly happy with the AP/Ferodo setup at the front. Great stopping power, feel is pretty good (though I'm no driving god) and they stand up to abuse on track much better.

The car is boosted well with the Harrop/Rogue/TD performing beautifully, it handles just right with the H&R Super Sport springs and Bilstein B8s, there's plenty of grip balanced with playfulness from the 235/40 PS4s on 18 x 8.75" XXRs, and I've adorned it with some subtle personalisations.
What next?  Time, finally, for a big brake kit.  I'm keeping it sensible.  After all, my car is strictly for road use as my daily commuter.  After discussing it with Scott at Abbey Motorsport, I'm going with an AP Racing 330 kit for the fronts.  Just braided lines for the rears, keeping the stock calipers/discs and Cosworth Streetmaster pads.
It's booked in, together with the MOT, for 1st April as I try to make each visit to Abbey a worthwhile one.  At least the car should be clean by then.

The parts for the interior refresh have arrived over the last few weeks:
- Pioneer AVH-ZL5150 200mm head unit
- BRZ Ts interior trim (satin black metallic)
- Baruta gear knob upper & lower parts
- Anodised centre air vent trim
- Zero designs gauge rings
This is all going in at the moment, but repainting the climate control switches and knobs is holding it up.

A long time lurker, now I am doing some work on my car I thought I should post up.
I took delivery on 17th September 2012 and used the car as a daily driver up until March 2017. Switching to a Volvo XC60 and subsequently an I30N in 2019 which remains my daily.
The car is used for road trips and the odd trackday or driver training.
The modifications to date are:
- Grazio shark fin aerial
- Toms rear lights
- OZ Ultraleggera 17x8
- Blitz Nur Spec exhaust
- Cosworth drop in filter
- OEM alcantara gauge hood
- OEM leather one piece centre trim
- Reverse camera
So nothing major but now the fun begins. I am working on the interior at the moment and then the car will be off to Abbey Motorsport.

The Billetworkz gear knob has arrived, custom engraved with Japanese shift pattern and STi logo.  I chose a weighted model with lightbulb shape in gloss black.

277HP BRZ😂

When I do sell my BRZ I won't be putting it back to stock. I haven't kept the original parts anyway, but to be honest I buy a car and use it for my daily commute so I'm getting maximum value from it. I don't expect to yield much value at the end and I never expect to recoup the cost of the mods. That isn't the point, I've already enjoyed their value.
It won't be for 3-4 years yet, when I retire.

I’ve no experience of them but there are always plenty of people selling used Gt86 Air suspension, so on that basis I doubt its much good. I assume they go back to springs.
Personally I wouldn’t want to lose my boot to all the gubbins for it and also the extra weight of it all.
Great I suppose if you’re only interested in road use, posing, #stance and shows etc But you don’t get track cars with air ride for good reason.

Today I finally got to get a go at the German Autobahn with my 2017 GT86 with automatic gearbox. The weather conditions were rather good, with an air temperature of 20 deg. C, a blue sky and almost no wind. The speedometer read 234 km/h or 145.5 mph, which is above expectation.
The car is in stock condition, apart from the 225 PS4 tyres, which have a 1.4% larger circumference.
Remarkable is the noticeable extra power at high speed. I guess the air gets somewhat compressed when scooped in. The stability at those speeds is pretty good.
All in all a satisfying result. 😊

That bumper looks a bit too aftermarket in my eyes, but it does fix the biggest issue with the front end styling, which is that the tall and narrow grille on the GR86 makes the whole car look too tall and narrow and makes the nose look a bit dumpy.

GT86 is better looking, IMO. Stock Vs stock, the GR86 seems like it might be a better car in pretty much every way. I'm certainly interested to try one and see how it compares to my SC'd GT86, it'd have to be pretty damn good for me to consider switching though.

GT86 is better looking, IMO. Stock Vs stock, the GR86 seems like it might be a better car in pretty much every way. I'm certainly interested to try one and see how it compares to my SC'd GT86, it'd have to be pretty damn good for me to consider switching though.

Went to fit it today. Its quite incredible the stock arm angle when the wheels are hanging.
You can see from the pictures the difference these mounts make. Once the weight of the car is back on the wheels the arm will be pretty much horizontal now.
Three things that aren’t mentioned in the instructions -
1) That its much easier to do this with the wheels off. I’d have saved a lot of time by starting with removing the wheels.
2) The torque settings (140nm for the large bolt going into the floor. 70nm for the two small bolts next to it and 110nm for the bolts either end of the trailing arm)
3) The bolts either end of the trailing arm cannot be reused as they stretch. I found this out the hard way. So the car is still on axel stands waiting for 4x new bolts to turn up. Part No - SU003-02819 (around £11 each!)
Hopefully next weekend i’ll be able to tell you how the car drives after fitting these.

Actually its the only thing I use the car for lol 
Yep deffo, will share my experience with these once fitted

Then you'll be wanting an automatic gearbox and a truck engine. Not especially sporty, but you can spin the tyres right off! I expect you could get a boxer diesel in the engine bay if you really wanted... however I agree that low torque performance engines can be hard work, and not especially good at daily use, having owned a series of high revving engines.
On the original topic @Jay Bamrah it is disproportionately expensive to tune for NA peak power without increasing cylinder capacity. The "famous" NA engines all have ambitious red lines, complex adjusting intakes, fully variable valve timing and really strong engineering around the camshafts. That stuff doesn't come cheap!
If you soak in some of the press around engines like the Porsche block in the 911R, Gordon Murray's Cosworth unit, the Ferrari 458 V8, Honda's F20C, Mazda's Renesis you really get a sense of how hard it is to get more power when you can't make the flame front any faster. Anyone (sort of) can add boost pressure and fuel, but it takes bespoke engineering to raise the redline usefully and not completely ruin the engine for regular use. The FA20 is a pretty good but not exceptional NA engine at just under 100 bhp/L, but it's a much easier normal drive and more efficient than the F20C that just about squeaks 120 bhp/L.

you left out important variable out of equation. Those "exceptional" NA engines with even higher specific power output per volume, were way less strangled by modern eco emission standards. I'm certain that be it now, those wouldn't be that "exceptional". If even Honda, maker of (in my eyes) best inline-4 engines "gave up" and went for turbo in latest type-r generations, should speak a lot about it. Now only supercar makers can still afford to develop/make "exceptional" NA engines comparable to those in past.

It sort of means rpm; rpm is a non-standard unit, so to do torque x speed = power, you have to use:
Torque in Nm
Speed* in radians per second
Power in Watts
You can do a calculation using other units (e.g. rpm for speed) but you have to use a conversion factor to correct it.
 
To get more power, you would generally want more torque, yes. However you can also achieve it by changing where the peak torque occurs, depending on the engine characteristics. So if you had peak power at, say, 4000rpm, it might be that your torque drops off at higher rpms. You might be able to increase the torque at 6000rpm so that it's the same torque you previously made at 4000rpm: in that case your peak torque figure hasn't changed, but because it occurs at a higher rpm you'll make a higher power. It will mean that instead of making peak power at 4000rpm, you'd make peak power at 6000rpm. Hopefully that makes sense...
If your car is tuned properly with forced induction, you won't be in a situation where you can add more power by changing the shape of the torque curve though. Peak power for these engines is very high in the rev range and the torque curve should be fairly flat in that region.
Just my opinion here, but a GT86 with nearly 300bhp (as you'd get with forced induction) is pretty quick. To get that power, with appropriate suspension/brake upgrades, is going to cost £8-10k. If you really want more than 300bhp you'd be better off selling the GT86 and buying something else.
 
(*As a note, "speed" is actually angular velocity, but I thought that was even more confusing!)

Power is torque x speed (with a multiplier if you're not using Nm and radians/sec), not torque x time.
So, at a given engine rpm, if you increase the torque, you will also increase power at that rpm. When you see dyno graphs, they use rpm as the x-axis (along the bottom), and both torque and power on the y-axis. If you pick a certain rpm - say 4000rpm - the engine will make a certain torque, and as a result of that, a particular power. If you increase the torque at 4000rpm (by tuning), you'll have more power at 4000rpm.

I had the 60k service done today down at Abbey Motorsport.
A couple of you asked about the Delicious Tuning coil packs. Mine are blue 2017+ ones. Bear in mind that my plugs have also been swapped for HKS ones as preferred by Abbey over the Denso stock ones. Response and pickup are noticeably sharper. If I press the pedal from overrun, acceleration is instant rather than the moment's hesitation that I had become used to. Low down pull is improved, probably just because of the instant response. It's sharper away from the lights but also if prodding the pedal in 6th on the motorway. Overall, it just makes the car that much more responsive - despite already being on a very good ECUTEK tune for the 'charger.

Please ask on that too.. hardware upgrades like engine internals , gearbox, clutch etc. I am unsure if they will have the answers but definitely worth trying.

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I wonder whether they've upgraded the rods compared to the FA20 though?  The rods in the FA20 would certainly be strong enough for the FA24's output, and the stroke is 86mm again.  That could limit the potential for FI on the new one to be a similar level to the first gen.  I'll be at FOS too and will definitely be paying Toyota a visit 😁

The eco friendly GT among the . Long may it live.