surrey86

I tried it with it back in, and rotating it a bit so it wouldn’t touch and I did feel the throttle response was slightly better so left it in. However I will say the difference wasn’t much to get excited about - not talking night and day here it was fractional at best.

Just wanted to give one last update that finally, after four months and a lot of chasing, I was refunded for my purchase. Best of luck to the other members who are waiting for parts or a refund.

Interesting but I’d wait for feedback on the new tyre first.
Michelin have previous form for downgrading tyres, remember the PS3 being worse than the PS2.

To me it makes sense they want their own stand at Japfest. There was already two existing GT86 clubs, they decided they wanted to be different so made their own club, fair enough. 
If you're going to the effort to make your own club, why would you then want to join existing clubs stands? It would defeat the whole point, unless I've missed something?

Try changing the url in your post from v3 to v2.
[edit] just seen this post was weeks ago, hopefully you've found it by now

To me it makes sense they want their own stand at Japfest. There was already two existing GT86 clubs, they decided they wanted to be different so made their own club, fair enough. 
If you're going to the effort to make your own club, why would you then want to join existing clubs stands? It would defeat the whole point, unless I've missed something?

@Mani I'm a little surprised that Sam Hardy has not approached the drivers club in the first instance. That would have been the easy way. There is no breakdown in communication. Sam at Cult 86 has simply not consulted us. Then people seem to be aking us why. If Sam wishes to combine Cult 86 with the DC then all he had to do is ask. Simple stuff you'd think?
Cult 86 has 66 FB members. GT86 BRZ DC has over 11,600 I cannot think why it would be my job to chase them? 

Because he didn't reply to you straightaway, you defamed him and his business by stating matter of factly that he knowingly sells products that are faulty.
There's a reason why social media and trolling is in the news at the moment, because "people" will do this stuff with the cover of anonymity.
I'm afraid "not replying to me within 8 hours" is not an acceptable defense!
 

You bored my dude?
https://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=white knighting

It's not defamation if its true. The HKS SC has a well known design flaw.
Another thing common on social media is white knighting. Perhaps mind your own?

I been slow as I have been super busy @ Abbey HQ , 
Okay , can we all be transparent then ,  can we have your names and not your forum names. I thin this is the way forward.
Thanks
 
 

Looks very similar to the outgoing model, with a reasonable little boost in performance.
I notice they appear to be now using the Forester oil cooler setup.

I've got exactly the same problem, new battery last year now dead. I can't seem to disable the alarm, there is a keypad in the glovebox that should correspond to the code in the alarm manual. Doesn't seem to work for me.
My jump starter also doesn't seem to work this time, it shuts itself off within a couple seconds. I'm going to have another attempt using jump leads and another vehicle soon!

Hearing how often guys in UK have problems with battery going flat (probably due alarm systems UK twins are fitted normally with), and even more so now, in lockdown/relatively little driving times, i'm not sure i'd wish to add another current user extra draining battery 😕

The N1 is essentially an ASBO manifested in tubular form

The N1 is essentially an ASBO manifested in tubular form

The N1 is essentially an ASBO manifested in tubular form

The N1 is essentially an ASBO manifested in tubular form

If TD are offering fitting their own for free I'd bite their hand off, they seem quite decent exhausts.

Seems weird the Raceseng ones did it as well. You have to wonder if it is the damper, but the OEM top mount rubber is isolating it.

I find them fine aswell. Overheated them once in a BBK but was an overly long hot session and I was risking it.
They get a lot of bad press online from people who drive them with heavier cars.
This might sound an odd point, but the build quality of the pad itself is better than all others I've tried. I used to have to file the backing plates of EBC and Carbotech pads down so they weren't a tight fit in the caliper but these DS2500's slot in beautifully!
 

I find them fine aswell. Overheated them once in a BBK but was an overly long hot session and I was risking it.
They get a lot of bad press online from people who drive them with heavier cars.
This might sound an odd point, but the build quality of the pad itself is better than all others I've tried. I used to have to file the backing plates of EBC and Carbotech pads down so they weren't a tight fit in the caliper but these DS2500's slot in beautifully!
 

Interesting people don't like the 2500's I ran these on sprints and found them fine, too aggressive and you find ABS cutting in a lot. Road use I do very little of so no feedback there I'm afraid.

Managed to get the last two major Verus Pieces wrapped up over the last few days
I tackled the bonnet vents first while I waiting on a few parts to arrive for the rear wing install. It’s always a little tense cutting into body panels so I must have checked my dimensions about 5 times before the drill and cutting disc were unleashed.   

 
Once I had the holes cut out I taped up on both sides and sprayed all the cut edges just to seal them up and stop any aluminum corrosion taking hold.

After all the messing about the vents were finally bolted in, safe to say the front of the car no longer looks stock!


With the vents completed I tackled the rear wing install, I knew I was going to have to make some small alterations as I have a full fibreglass ducktail that covers the entire bootlid, and the Verus kit is designed to fit onto  a standard bootlid. However funnily enough the Verus wing is designed to work with a ducktail and the profile of the wing should nicely tie in with it.
In order to get it to work I need to drill through the various layers of fibreglass and bootlid steel and use some extended aluminium spacers inside the boot with longer stainless steel bolts. The wing then uses a stainless steel backing plate on the inside and aluminium uprights on the outside to ensure there is no flex, which is helped by the fact the uprights are right out on the edge of the bootlid. A jacking nut is also incorporated that you adjust so that it is in contact with the OEM boot hinge stopper to further ensure no flexing.

When all was installed it does seem very effective, and ties in nicely with the ducktail like I hoped



 

The Fensport turbo kit used to be a lot more expensive, they brought the price down not long ago to be more competitive with the TD kit, which when it arrived blew the others out of the water on value.
Personally if I was going for a turbo, I prefer the design of the Fensport kit with the turbo mounted low and keeping an enclosed air filter so less heat soak. Also Adrian has done a lot of track development with it's design in sprint series, and supports those series financially. I believe the cheaper AVO kits have less headroom for power increases than the standard TD turbo units, though - and the TD is dyno mapped, which is nice to get real data on the improvements beyond the arse-dyno.