Sonic

you're correct, you do have to have a standalone wideband running in paraell ( mounted a bit further down the pipe) to achieve the calibration thats what I did anyway

from what I've seen the stock semi-wideband is fine down to about 11.2:1 AFR BUT you have to apply a re-curve to the sensor to increase its accuracy as knightryder is correct in saying as stock with the stock calibration its accuracy isn't great away from stoich and the issue I have with dyno / roller widebands is often they're poked into a tailpipe which is a long way from the engine so reading a cold exhaust mix and also its very difficult to get sufficient flow over the sensor for an accurate reading as most tailpipes are too large and diffuse a flow if the roller dyno sensor is mounted into a small pipe and that pipe is poked a long way into the exhaust then this is a lot better but still suffers from a much colder gas mix so changing the accuracy of the reading

sorry but these things are just too big for me compared to an '86 its a barge and yes I have driven one

328.4 at the wheels I reckon good luck

I'm guessing that you're removing the GDi injection system? If so don't do it

Sorry I disagree the stock map is poor and so massively conservative you can make some good gains by just putting to 'normal' values, its about 4 degrees away from knock on 98 gasoline and runs 10:1 target AFR , which is rich for a turbo car this is often not true for an NA car but with the '86 you can make 10-12 bhp gain with no other supporting mods and replace the air filter with something not made of solid you can get a few bhp more than this so a tune / stage 1 pack is excellent value on this car

hello one of the best places for water injection is pre compressor aim the jet at the centre nut to avoid eroding the compressor impeller blades the water coming in pre-compressor will reduce the charge temp in the same way as post compressor injection but it will also mix really well due to the compressor and help seal the compressor blades to the hosuing and improve efficency and yes a mix of water / ethanol is superior to just water on its own as the specific heat transfer coefficent is better and you'll avoid corroding engine parts with any water that condenses out of the airstream furhter down the pipe

you could use the gear dependent rev limit in ECUtek so have 7600 in 1st & 2nd and then tail it off for the taller gears, as its only very briefly seeing the high rpm in the lower gears

blimey 3 gallons ?! thats plenty large, still you don't have to fill it right up with oil I'd run it about 8 to 10 ltrs or so as too much oil will take ages to warm but a big tank has the plus you can run a lot or air space at the top which will help with redcuing carryover and give the oil plenty of time to swirl around and de-aerate I'm assuming that you've got to modify / make a sump pickup for the pump?

come come, dry sumping isn't some dark art thats right at the bleeding edge this build is a race car and as such requires a dry sump, especially on a flat engine which are more prone than inline or Vee configurations for oil hang up as long as the tank volume is a good size with baffling and the entry point is tangential so the oil can swirl around the tank and de-aerate and the blow-by air can also be vented to the air space at the top of the dry sump tank so there's no need for a seperate catch can also the hoses shouldn't be running at 12Bar unless something is seriously wrong typical back pressures on a well designed system should be about 0.3 to 0.5bar of back pressure to the dry sump pump, the engen pressure pump is unchanged of course so internal oil pressure remains the same as stock and is contained within the engine

I think the main issue is the stock valve springs are pretty soft so I wouldn't be going past 7600rpm until these were replaced

I'd concur with the general opinion the Toyota Nav is quite frankly rubbish spend £80 on a garmin and you'll have somethign far superior

are you still twincharging Nigel or have you gone off that idea?

go ceramic coat every time, the reduction in engine bay temps is well worth it for reliability and keeping the air intake temps down, plus wrap has to be done carefully not to create any air pockets as this then superheats and melts holes in the exhaust

More power arf! arf! ( tim taylor reference) too much is never enough, in my expierence anyway. 350Bhp in a road car seemed quite normal after about 3 weeks of Cerbera ownership