Church

Lauren: imho two fluid bottles for flush, 1 for subsequent bleeds if careful.

To me first thing to care for is grip (at most of roads/situations i'm driving (thus including wet grip), second - wear. All the rest are 'nice to have' like noise/comfort/fuel economy (rolling resistance)/cost but certainly something i'm willing to give up for first, and at a little bit less for second. Cornering speed, lap speed, braking distance, safety .. all depends on grip. Wear - a bit other words to say is for that to last a bit longer and cheaper, within reasonable price/performancy. From this i guess MPS4 is very close to best choice for dual-use tire of daily driving and some track use.

I'd love to get one clutchless manual though. It's this one

Blameshift: will catted headers also be non-legal by your MOT rules? (eg. FT86SF or JDL?) Does check involves scrupulous visual check for possible aftermarket parts or just OBD reader for codes & exhaust gases check? There is also option like some here do, pile of aftermarket parts get switched back for MOT check and after passing it back to aftermarket. Not choice for me, as I wouldn't like to do two part switches per year, if nothing else, due need to pay extra for shop's work, due possibly weakening connections/threads and maybe need to buy new gaskets/O2 sensors, if they get damaged during switch, if eg. changing header 6 times per 3 years. I'd consider it if MOT checks had been once per two years though.
P.S. Does torque dip really bother you that much? When everybody was posting about it .. yeah, i checked/saw it, but in real daily driving i usually drive & gearshift at low rpms below dip, at track, or at overtakes when DD, i downshift, and rpms are always above torque dip, 4K-redline. So in reality i don't care about it anymore.

Nimz: i consider MR2 being rather cool car (very capable but very demanding from driver skills, performing and looking superb. Poor man NSX ), so wouldn't take that as offensive

This evening I got a really cheap quote from a company called 'Zenith', but the online reviews for them are dreadful; however, this 5 star review for them was particularly amusing:

"I don't even have a licence and they never checked and gave me fully comp cover even though dvla have revoked my licence due to my mental health. They are so lovely on the phone and even when there's no money in my bank they still keep me insured and speak to me like I'm royalty. Due to them insuring me I won't ever be pulled over for no licence....happy days"
 

Blameshift: will catted headers also be non-legal by your MOT rules? (eg. FT86SF or JDL?) Does check involves scrupulous visual check for possible aftermarket parts or just OBD reader for codes & exhaust gases check? There is also option like some here do, pile of aftermarket parts get switched back for MOT check and after passing it back to aftermarket. Not choice for me, as I wouldn't like to do two part switches per year, if nothing else, due need to pay extra for shop's work, due possibly weakening connections/threads and maybe need to buy new gaskets/O2 sensors, if they get damaged during switch, if eg. changing header 6 times per 3 years. I'd consider it if MOT checks had been once per two years though.
P.S. Does torque dip really bother you that much? When everybody was posting about it .. yeah, i checked/saw it, but in real daily driving i usually drive & gearshift at low rpms below dip, at track, or at overtakes when DD, i downshift, and rpms are always above torque dip, 4K-redline. So in reality i don't care about it anymore.

Blameshift: will catted headers also be non-legal by your MOT rules? (eg. FT86SF or JDL?) Does check involves scrupulous visual check for possible aftermarket parts or just OBD reader for codes & exhaust gases check? There is also option like some here do, pile of aftermarket parts get switched back for MOT check and after passing it back to aftermarket. Not choice for me, as I wouldn't like to do two part switches per year, if nothing else, due need to pay extra for shop's work, due possibly weakening connections/threads and maybe need to buy new gaskets/O2 sensors, if they get damaged during switch, if eg. changing header 6 times per 3 years. I'd consider it if MOT checks had been once per two years though.
P.S. Does torque dip really bother you that much? When everybody was posting about it .. yeah, i checked/saw it, but in real daily driving i usually drive & gearshift at low rpms below dip, at track, or at overtakes when DD, i downshift, and rpms are always above torque dip, 4K-redline. So in reality i don't care about it anymore.

And as side gain right size wheels will also be lighter. ESPECIALLY in form of very light forged ones like CE28

On track one won't feel torque dip (at ~ 3-3.5K), as rpms are usually 4K to redline. During daily driving .. yes, it can be felt, if accelerating from coasting speed rpms to overtake speed while staying in same gear as if on some turbodiesel .. but i just prefer to drop 2-3 gears down for some audial pleasure and actual acceleration anyway, when need to overtake. When everybody talked about it, it was noticeable .. but now after driving for 2 years it being there doesn't matter. For honda it's VTEC-yo, for ours it's infamous torque dip. Just don't mind it and spool up this little high-redline engine puppy

On track one won't feel torque dip (at ~ 3-3.5K), as rpms are usually 4K to redline. During daily driving .. yes, it can be felt, if accelerating from coasting speed rpms to overtake speed while staying in same gear as if on some turbodiesel .. but i just prefer to drop 2-3 gears down for some audial pleasure and actual acceleration anyway, when need to overtake. When everybody talked about it, it was noticeable .. but now after driving for 2 years it being there doesn't matter. For honda it's VTEC-yo, for ours it's infamous torque dip. Just don't mind it and spool up this little high-redline engine puppy

I'm pretty sure it's me as driver to fault for worn synchros, indeed. Did all cited errors, like switching gears as fast as i could, almost forcing them, started learning heal & toe for downshift rev-match only later on, after already at least year had been tracked.. Well, at least clutch still lives fine, despite lot of clutch-hits due not rev-matching, or sometimes even purposely to initiate drift. When "grew up", decided cut on flashiness, rather keep car more planted if downswitch prior entering curve with proper revmatch, but i guess that is a bit too late, all that time before i put on heavy load & for many times at that.

Gary: Head units are there also to hide road noise and interior rattles

Innersphere: my choice would be - still dial out that excessive stock alignment understeer for front to not push out even if no track use considered, but on public roads to drive with at least VSC sport as minimum, for some safeguard to protect against spinouts. Reducing that understeer will not suddenly make your car overly oversteer happy, it's not that you reduce rear grip, it's that you add more extra grip front (for actually imho closer to neutral overall balance), to when you steer for car to actually turn, not push front out of curve. What you do later on curve even with that more camber in front still depends more on your driving inputs .. you still can make it understeer or oversteer mid turn with brake/accel/steering usage  .. just that bias imho now is nicer.
Most popular "custom" alignment numbers i've seen in forums:
for street, front camber -1.5 to --2, rear camber by 0.5 less than that
for mostly DD, occasional track visits -2.5 front (0.5 less @rear)
for large enough track share for most tire wear/use to happen there front camber in range of -3 to -3.5 degrees. It may also be used tire model/custom suspension/aero dependent (and again in same fashion 0.5 to 1 degree less camber at rear). And if one takes track racing serious enough one may have also more custom parts installed affecting optimum settings, and one also may use things like pyrometer to fine-dial ideal camber settings according to actually measured after track runs tire temps on inside/center/outside of tires. And even custom dial different camber right to left depending if it's clockwise or counterclockwise track layout
and for dedicated drift cars i've seen insane camber numbers mentioned, like -5 and such. Don't remember rear camber numbers though. Drift cars also may have non standart toe settings (eg. if car is still NA and is tuned for drifting, then one may counter lack of power with toe-out front for easier initiate of drift/sharper initial turn in (but less stable/less control) and toe out rear with tendency to go sideways. On powerful cars (eg. if adding forced induction) extra stability/control still won't hurt, so that hack of toe-out not needed)
toe in most cases works for street/mix/track 0 front, and slight toe-in rear ( 0.1-0.2 total toe).

For reference,
Stock OEM Factory alignment
        SERVICE DATA (2013 FR-S)_SPECIFICATIONS_ ALIGNMENT _ HANDLING DIAGNOSIS.pdf
Front:  Camber: 0 +/- 45' (0 +/- 0.75°) (Right/Left Difference: 0°45' (0.75°) or less)
        Caster (Reference): 5°54' (5.90°)
        Steering Axis Inclination (Reference): 15°31' (15.52°)
        Toe (Each Wheel): 0°00' +/- 0°11' (0.00° +/- 0.19°)
        Toe (Total): 0 +/- 3.0 mm (0 +/- 0.1181 in.)
Rear:   Camber: -1°12' +/- 45' (-1.20° +/- 0.75°) (Right/Left Difference: 45' (0.75°) or less)
        Toe (Each Wheel): C + D: 0°10' +/- 0°15' (0.16° +/- 0.24°)
        Toe (Total): 2.0 +/- 3.0 mm(0.0787 +/- 0.1181 in.)
But:
- it's ranges are too wide (for example handling noticeably differs with toe-in or toe-out by 0.2dg, and both extremes - "pass")
- it's understeer biased (which many don't like, at least on track), so worth upping front camber to be more then rear vs opposite bias of stock.
- it's within mentioned toe passing range, but worth on RWD car explicitly set slight toe-in for stability sake.
- if track use, even occasional is considered, extra static camber advised. MOSTLY for front, with "stock" 0dg camber. "Free grip" even on very same tires. On stock zero camber worth to have go mostly for first time, just "to have a taste", to feel oneself what (probably) needs to be improved.

For reference,
Stock OEM Factory alignment
        SERVICE DATA (2013 FR-S)_SPECIFICATIONS_ ALIGNMENT _ HANDLING DIAGNOSIS.pdf
Front:  Camber: 0 +/- 45' (0 +/- 0.75°) (Right/Left Difference: 0°45' (0.75°) or less)
        Caster (Reference): 5°54' (5.90°)
        Steering Axis Inclination (Reference): 15°31' (15.52°)
        Toe (Each Wheel): 0°00' +/- 0°11' (0.00° +/- 0.19°)
        Toe (Total): 0 +/- 3.0 mm (0 +/- 0.1181 in.)
Rear:   Camber: -1°12' +/- 45' (-1.20° +/- 0.75°) (Right/Left Difference: 45' (0.75°) or less)
        Toe (Each Wheel): C + D: 0°10' +/- 0°15' (0.16° +/- 0.24°)
        Toe (Total): 2.0 +/- 3.0 mm(0.0787 +/- 0.1181 in.)
But:
- it's ranges are too wide (for example handling noticeably differs with toe-in or toe-out by 0.2dg, and both extremes - "pass")
- it's understeer biased (which many don't like, at least on track), so worth upping front camber to be more then rear vs opposite bias of stock.
- it's within mentioned toe passing range, but worth on RWD car explicitly set slight toe-in for stability sake.
- if track use, even occasional is considered, extra static camber advised. MOSTLY for front, with "stock" 0dg camber. "Free grip" even on very same tires. On stock zero camber worth to have go mostly for first time, just "to have a taste", to feel oneself what (probably) needs to be improved.

Lauren: wrong. If one puts camberbolts in both holes (spc lower, whiteline upper hole), at stock height -2.2/-2.3 with just camberbolts is common (from my own experience too). Or some -2.5, if lowered. So if just -2 wanted - perfectly doable with just bolts.
Pitty it's still below what i want (as for track use i need at least -3 front but still keeping rubber topmounts for NVH, so for a while i thought that i have to choose between camber i wish or NVH of pillowball camberplates ), so next thing i'm going to try - add whiteline's positive traction kit bushings (adds +0.5 caster) and powerflex eccentric bushings (supposedly +/-1 camber. Real life will show if that much possible and if it will sum with camber from camberbolts. Parts ordered, sometime later this month will install those bushings).

Luckily our oem wheels have 60dg conical taper most "aftermarket wheels" have. So in many cases you can use these stock nuts on many aftermarket wheels and vice versa.

Main point - there is little real use of it. I'd move on.

.. or when backing out when parallel parking those last cm till next car's bumper w/o making contact. Even after i had already driven this car for few months, still had difficulties of estimating distance left by look through rear window. High trunk line, way above bonnet of most cars, didn't help either. When looking like it should be almost touching, there were still 30-40cm left. It was much easier to gauge distance left in hatchback i've driven before this.
Well, camera solved problem. Now i can get even within 2cm to next car :).

link #1 link#2
From some subaru brakers yard 16" Subaru Impreza (2004) space saver (without cut outs, does not foul callipers) or 17", with many round holes. 
If it will fit GT86 calipers pics: #1 , #2
=============
Extras to mount it:
Y51931-0H010 (N/STK CARRIER, S/WHEEL) - £4.71 + VAT
Y64777-0D060 (N/STK CUSHION, SPARE) - 13.71 + VAT

Be more competitive on track? My answer would be - to have CHEAP japanese car .. and direct saved money to more track days and more HPDE tutoring received then owners of more expensive cars can afford. With stock (under)power of twins they'll get ahead in straights, with skills one can gain back in curves. Stickier tires and more camber can help upping cornering (&thus exit) speeds. That's budget variant. Or just go for forced induction right away, but even then stickier tires like MPSS/AD08R or even "cheater" RE71R won't hurt. But in general .. it's attitude problem of those collegues. If they are rude on such subject, i simply wouldn't value their opinion much and wouldn't get into arguing / "revenge" mood, just ignoring such people. They already are paying for their choice. Paying much much more.

Apologies for the old thread revival but I spotted this wobbling on the motorway just the other day and wanted to sort it. I thought I'd post up a solution of sorts in case anyone else stumbles across it with the same issue.
Under the bonnet there are two rubber stops which the bonet should sit up against when closed. These little guys.

 
If you give one a twist you'll notice they can be removed with ease and that they have a "spiral" cut into them.

 
When I checked the bonnet you could see a noticeable difference in contact spots from the two sides.
 

 
You can twist the stopper back on and keep twisting it up and down until you hit the desired height and hopefully end this wobbly bonnet blight

If wheel & tire setup is square, and car will never see the track, i'd put -1-1.5deg neg camber front, by -0.5deg less in rear (to make a bit less understeery vs stock), as in from -0.5 to 1deg, at front zero toe, rear 0.1 toe in (for a bit more stability under throttle). Or also zero toe.
If on rare ocasions, but you'll visit track once or twice a year, i'd up front camber to -2.5, rear to -2deg (still imho ok for street & w/o noticeable wear increase). If you'll become track junkie, i'd dial camber to -3.5 to -4 front (rear in same fashion -0.5deg less).
I wouldn't go for "factory" zero camber & zero toe all around. Imho at least -1deg camber is nice to have in front even for only daily driven car.

Finally a sound clip from my phone. I've got some go pro footage I will upload if the sound is better.