Church

Apart from how hot oil can get, there is also such thing as recommended working temps. If too cold, imho oil might also not work properly. So i guess it's worth to get something with thermostat, which will decide if oil needs cooled more or not. I'd think that 110C might be normal temps, oil doesn't need to be cooler then eg. water boiling temps. But if redlined/used heavy on track,, or sometimes even if idling in standstill traffic on some hot summer day, oil may get too hot, and not just reducing pressure, but also it can degrade much quicker overheated, requiring change more often. Car can be tracked everything stock, but i'd change oil then very often, eg. every few thousand track miles, not doing it just when it's due scheduled regular maintenance.
Some forester style L2O coolers might be sufficient for light track use, but if one tracks often, i guess normal external oil A2O rad might be mod worth to consider, to ensure proper oiling and longetivity of engine.
P.S. Regarding oiling our cars may have some other shortcomings too, eg. if running on high-grip tires and or lot of aero downforce getting oil starving in long high G turns at least without some sump mods to increase oil capacity or some means to better direct where it goes when with side-Gs.

Yes. Shown as the inner gauge circle on the MY12 and the lower left segment in the MY17 as per the genuine dash. Seems that maximum logged value is about ~60 so I've set the gauge to suit.

Standard is ET48 (offset in mm from wheel's centerline to axle's hub) for 7" wide wheel. While also ET48's 8" wide wheel centerline's would go same place as OEM wheel's, it would add extra half of an inch (12.7mm) both to inside and outside of wheel, or in example of ET35, almost same on inside as stock ET48 x7" wheels, but 25.7mm more to outside.
Speedo/gearing wise 225/40/R18 would also be bigger then stock 215/45/R17. For R18 AND of 225 width closest tire diameter to stock 215/45/R17 tire's is 225/35/R18.
Within closest number changes simplest way by rule of thumb to keep somewhat similar overall circumference/diameter is - if rising one number, lower sidewall height (in % of tire's width) by "step". Rise two numbers (in this case both wheel diameter R17>R18 AND width 215>225) - lower sidewall height by two steps to compensate. Or just use some online tire calculator similar to linked in above to compare variants. (liking this particular, that it lets add many variants, not just between the two)

Cleaner windows where stabilizator rollers go are not exactly issue in my book. Notceable scratches there are, where in your pic frontmost line in upper part. To me those were easiest to see during daylight, when sun light going through those scratches & reflected differently.

Maybe ask him to dial a bit more toe-in rear, to eg. 0.1 each wheel, 0.2 total.

Lauren: maybe it's alignment rig dependent. In printout pic provided by you there was that drawing of toe angle scheme right by toe value, that for rear it was measured from below. That should reverse positive vs negative angle values vs front then.
But what seems weirdest, that Graemel's described symptoms sound exactly like what would result from toe out :((. Damn, confusing

With single set of camberbolts -1.5 is about max (at stock height. lowering adds some -0.2 more). With camberbolts in both holes total front camber ~ -2.2 to -2.3 (-2.5 if lowered). If you add eccentric powerflex front lca bushing in addition to camberbolts in both strut lower mountholes, total front camber can be upped to -3 degrees. For more then that (or if one doesn't use PF bushings, or has just one set of camberbolts) - one needs top camberplates or slotted strut mounts.
BTW, adding extra camber in front won't eliminate extra oversteer. To change grip bias for less oversteery, it would be rather opposite, with added grip rear (in this case - more negative camber, to compensate tire flex in curve on track due side-Gs) or reduces grip in front. I'd rather use some toe-in in rear for more rear stability ..
.. BUT! If i interpret your printout right (more used to printouts with rear axle alignments placed below ), Rear axle > Toe > left 0dg05' right 0dg03' total 0dg0.8'already is slight toe in? (positive values were toe-in, negative toe-out, right?) so imho it should already be better of stock's 0 toe in rear aswell. And even with everything stock my car seemed a bit less oversteery, vs what you describe, that even 5% extra throttle after understeer could make it snap oversteer, i needed to shift grip to front much more for oversteer with throttle in long curves for rear grip loss. And you say that competent driver also observed that excessive oversteer. I'm slightly at loss here. :/ Yes, even more toe-in should add stability, but imho it shouldn't be that bad as you describe even with toe-in you have now. Another way for quick add of rear grip even without redoing alignment would be lessening air pressure in rear tires. But still, imho it shouldn't be as bad.
As Varelco asked - do you have changes to different stiffness roll bars or to any other suspension bits, except alignment? Car is still NA? Tire pressures are even? No suspension bits had been worn/bent?

No experience is moot. Everybody started somewhere, you'll still have loads of fun. Just that will be slower then many, even on comparable cars. Best way to shorten learning route - good HPDE instructions. If not professional one, then at very least some local more experienced driver as passenger or ask to be as passenger in other car for some laps. Instructor should be more skillful giving advises how/what to learn, what habbits/reflexes to correct/fix, what are specifics of this particular track (like where you can push it, where which line is best, where are braking points).
Cost risks. I'm not sure that i'll be one that gives right answer, which probably would be insurance or going in some 200-500e "folk-race" class beater car that you can afford to go at 10/10 and total .. but for track real insurance is too damn costly for me to afford :(. Good thing, that due tracks being controlled environment it decreases those going fast risks by a lot - no oncoming traffic, due repeated laps you learn track layout/specific better to know where/how much you can push, in many tracks at many points sliding off the track will be way less risky, as no high kerb to damage suspension on, no wall or trees, just sliding few metres with emergency pressed brakes over grass or gravel till stop. Safest from all tracks should be auto-X ones with cones. But imho also less fun from enjoyment perspective. So i'd choose some kart alike track on flat ground, where speeds are slower, where you can see several turns ahead, where said spinning out of track is safe due no walls, leaving "real tracks" with higher speeds, blind corners that need to be taken by memory, and sometimes with concrete walls or trees for later, when with more experience
Upgrades/building .. 1) for first (or first few) track day i'd go with 100% stock - a) our cars are rather capable even stock, b ) it should show you by feel what/if you may wish to improve, not just some posts on internet :), c) limited grip of stock primacies should let you learn how to get closer to grip limit and balance at that at still safer/slower speeds. For example i started to feel deficiencies of brakes, and wished to dial out some of stock understeer. (P.S. regarding brakes, just go off track to cool them whenever you start feeling loosing them (due overheat). On stock car with stock brakes and stock primacies imho it's about 10-15 minutes track sessions) 2) do minimum upgrades to brakes, like better brake pads and brake fluid of higher boiling temps, 3) do performance alignment (in general more camber overall to compensate more side-Gs/more tire-flex, to get more grip and more even tire contact/patch/wear, and much higher camber in front, to dial out stock-ish understeer (stock front camber 0, rear -1, better have front camer by some -0.5 degree even more then rear, eg. F -1.5,R -1), 4) when you wear down stock tire set completely you may consider tire upgrades of moving up a bit in grip, eg. some stock sized MPSS or AD08R.
Aand - for me this seems wise point of first stop to upgrades and just keep going to track with this setup paying not for upgrades, but for fun/tracking itself & wearables like fuel/tires/pads. Oh, forgot to say - at some point i bought also own helmet (oh, agree to Lauren, get openface one - it subjectively felt less sweaty/less limiting eye view and so on), balaklava, gloves to not keep borrowing them from collegue or lease on track. Otherwise spendings so far should be rather reasonable, camberbolts and powerflex bushing front, rear LCA, performance alignment, better pads, brake fluid, tires .. and fuel of course
Further you have upgrade options like getting good coilovers to work well even with stickier more track oriented tires, longer track sessions enabling (and sometimes cheaper on pads/rotors wearables) Big Brake Kits, clutch type LSD diff, maybe different ratio final drive, stiffer bushings or replacing many of them with pillowball ones, oil catch can, aftermarket air filter, ecu tune, catless headers, forced induction (i'm disliking later option, but that's subjective), lightening car in various ways, getting aftermarket seats and safety harnesses, aftermarket steering wheel, installing aero elements like splitter, rear wing & splitter, cage and so on and on .. but these all need money/budget .. which i found better spent on actually driving on track
P.S. From skills i advise to learn first proper seating pose, hand position on wheel and such, then generic track information, like rules (flags/passing and such), most effective way to take corners (outside-inside/appex-outside). Then heal & toe downshifting. Otherwise you'll put lot of load on clutch/synchros and often may throw car off balance when downshifting. Then learn mass transfer with brakes to lessen understeer/get extra rotation. Would be nice if with left foot, but not mandatory. Worth also at beginning to intentionally sometimes push too much and almost intentionally spin out to learn limits one should balance not overcoming and how to recover. If you are going without electronic nannies, know how/what to do with brake/accel/steering to correct/fix. Also remember, that at some point overconfidence may appear, be beware of it :).

As many (if not most) twin owners that track theirs, also use them daily driving, any comments how these fare comfort wise? Of course, everything is compromise and something probably have been sacrificed compared to "normal coilovers", but imho that may also interest potential buyers, as to how much harsher that harsh is

Imho worth stating MSRP, to clarify what is "budget friendly"

+1 to enhancing nut behind the wheel, with more seat time & getting HPDE instructions.
& concentrating from upgrades to tires/suspension/brakes.
As result while it still won't accelerate like more powerful cars, you'll be able to outbrake/outturn many of them loosing less speed in corners. And car will still be more reliable and cheaper to run/maintain. Those 4-5K are better spend on wearables and actual tracking/fun of enjoying trackdays, then just adding forced induction for getting faster in straights.
I found satisfaction catching at each turn 3times more powerful porker that could temporarily distance from me only in straights. I guess, i annoyed him, as he left after 6 laps in such fashion. Or due overheated brakes (heavier car/more speed to bleed to take turn).
I'm not sure it's worth comparing track with mountain serpentine roads though. One pushes way less on former and leaves more safety margin there, at least if driving within legal limits. A bit more push then on average public roads, but far from going all out on track, which is controlled environment, where one can learn road specifics better due lapping several times same track & where often mistakes cost less, just sliding a bit if going off track vs falling off the cliff

Imho worth stating MSRP, to clarify what is "budget friendly"

Installed a new cat-back system in mine today...
 

I've driven over on the mainland of Europe probably at least 20 times now and like Mya I've done long distance trips down to the Alps.  It's no real problem at all, you just get used to it. Visibility for overtaking is more of an issue on single lane roads, but if you hang back a bit you can see okay. Having a passenger sighting for you helps as well. A minor PITA rather than a major one I would say. 

It's honestly not a bother at all. Only have slight issues with emerging from junctions if the angle is tight but motorway driving etc. is a breeze. 
Another pic just because we only just got on board... Super long delays at Folkestone. 

IIRC main think that would limit our engines is oil pressure to reach that high rpms, so i doubt to see any FA20 engine ever reaching more then some 8-8.2K rpms. Yes, some shops might be competent enough to completely rework whole oiling system, but by then involved skillset and costs would be that high, to make much more sense to do engine swap to some other.

@will300, I've noticed you can get matching Ferodo DS2500 rears for our car. £125. Any reason why you didn't go for these to match the fronts? 

Water? In cold weather? Just don't.
If water is not warm enough it will freeze right away adding extra ice layer. If it IS hot, there is big chance for your glass to shatter in cold weather if splashed upon with hot water.

Not easy. Due wide because of boxer design engine and cramped under-bonnet space. I suggest googling for DIY spark plug change though, as if done by dealer it might be very expensive. I guess because official dealer procedure for changing spark-plugs IIRC involved lifting engine, thus due high hour pay they ask much. By DIY guide it was not easy, but possible without lifting engine.

Forced induction intercooler usually comes in front of main rad just behind front grill anyway, doesn't it? And even if not FI, stock air intake is cold air intake, whose inlet/snorkel is before engine compartment, above crashbeam. Vents may help lowering underbonnet temps, but how much they matter for moving car? How much actually gets heatsoaken with air passing at big flow speeds through plastic tubes? Imho not enough to care much about it. Main cooling also has more capabilities and is not limiting factor. There is thermostat in coolant loop and electronic regulation to electric fan, if needed to be it can stay longer spinning and get more out of existing cooling system/capabilities. But oil temps often get on the high side on our cars. Often even if iddling in traffic standstill or if tracked in hot summer day. So for extra engine reliability/longetivity it's oil rad that i'd add to more heavily used car (track and/or FI).
If i'd think of adding vents .. they would come after oil rad, after oil catchcan, after stronger engine internals. And vents in fender after hood's vents.
BTW, my own choice would be leaving all those mods for later if not abandoning them at all .. but rather spend that money on actually tracking car and/or maybe some slight suspension/tires/brakes upgrade. You'll spend less, spend on actually having fun, and you'll gradually upgrade main part of them all - yourself as a driver.

IIRC front wing vents do work a bit (if modded to functional ones, by installing mesh and cutting out fenders a bit), but very slightly, as at that place there is not big pressure difference. One is much better off installing hood vents for that reason, as there is more of pressure difference / more effective air evacuation, thus better air evacuation for lower underbonnet temps & a bit downforce.
But imho it should be enough to add oil cooler to heavily tracked or high power FI builds.

Another tip - if by chance you want engine running AND lock the car (such as in winter, to heat up/to thaw snow/ice or to warm up in advance prior having a go in it this time in comfort, but not wishing someone breaking in), then with running engine 1) lock passenger door from inside, 2) lock driver's door with mechanical key.

It also is UK-specific.

You are not the only one THAT old school. Even though mostly playing off mp3s off usb stick, i also want headunit to 1) have cd slot, 2) have hardware sound volume knobs.

Imho worth browsing through wheel directory on american forum. When scrolling down there you see both pic of wheel+how it looks on car, with link ot thread about that wheel. See designs to ones liking, select which wheels also feature such, and then go for specifics, like sizing/offset/weight/how it's made/price/shop to buy :).