Church

I have top trim and find myself almost never using seat heating, after all, when it's cold, most probably wear warm outerwear eg. coat, thus i won't feel cold inside car anyway. Seat finish .. i guess it's subjective thing, imho cloth seats are good enough, and of same shape anyway. IIRC there are some extra lesser importance bits in car top trim, like electric light for sun visor, HID lights, fogs, but main things in car that matter (eg. LSD), usually are in all trims. Only thing i'd check if it's in lower trim too - digital speedo. Very usable feature i'd miss. BTW, some pros of cheaper trim in my eyes are slightly lesser weight of car with unheated cloth seats, and foglight places usable for brake ducting inlets.
If one buys used, due little difference between trims, i'd take whichever with lesser mileage/in better state/cheaper, no matter the trim.
If one buys new, i'd rather think if to get one with performance package (brembos/shocks/wheels) or without, but again, ignoring "comfort bits" in trims.

Just had a sit in, I will have to remove my hand I think to operate the levers. Although I have quite small hands for my size so you might just get away with keeping your hands on the wheel.
I’m just about 6’3 with long arms and legs before i could never have my leg straight on the brake or clutch I had my legs bend around the sides of the wheel. 
now it clears a good inch or 2, pic below shoes my leg just resting on the brake pedal
 
 
 

I'd advise against retrofitting brakes from other car. Of course, illeffects may matter less for not tracked car, that is not pushed and driven with nannies on, but it still feels wrong thing to do. OE twins brembos IIRC will cost 2.5K for brake part + cost of wheels that will clear them (original IIRC didn't), or extended studs & spacers.
Still, can you tell what issues your brakes had that warrant caliper replacement? Usually most issues can be handled by simple rehaul of brakes. Replacing seals, regreasing, if worn, pad change, sometimes extra bedding, with calipers very rarely getting to state of not usable.

It keep the map you previously selected. Had my battery disconnected plenty of times lately! 

Audiophiles and wine-testing professionals can be quickly shamed with something very simple, called "blind testing" :). "butt dyno" was mentioned in meaning/context, as change to better or worse most probably cannot be felt and thus mostly product rating/evaluation, even if from own experience, plays little role.
And you are 100%, absolutely, swear on bible, sure that "quieter" & "run smoother" is not there because you expect it in subconsciousness and drive differently? For example, some exhaust bolt-on mods theoretically should add performance & let engine run more efficiently and should rise fuel economy .. but then again it's possible that simply driver's foot becomes "heavier", so to see that extra performance he paid for, and so to hear more audial pleasure he paid for, thus running more often at higher rpms or flooring more often, instead of granny eco-coasting and early downshifting, as result fuel economy drops, even though to driver it seems that he drove no different as before. Actual gain (or opposite) should be evaluated by leaving out personal/subjective bit and with trying to eliminate other variables. For example, that quietness/smoothness to be measured with actual sound level meter and something to measure actual vibrations of engine, with it operated in some mechanized/automated way for repeatability. Long term wear level - on larger number of engines (to reduce particular bad engine possibility) running with or without those additives, filled/operated/run in some specific testing rigs same way. One shouldn't undermine placebo feel/positive affirmation bias/purchase self-justification big role in personal/subjective tests. We are humans, it's our nature, it's known shortcoming of our psiche. We paid money for that, we expect it to enhance things, and we'd hate of opposite and feel remorse of finding out that money was spent for naught or if we need to admit own mistake. Unfortunately there are many less honest vendors/shops/institutions that are glad to exploit known shortcoming/trait to make money.

Placebo feel/positive affirmation bias/purchase self-justification feel has high chance of valuing product wrong. If there are any actual changes then it should be of extent not detectable by "butt dyno" and only in long term at best and if you have two identical and identically used cars. Otherwise only frequent oil sampling checks at laboratory may tell a story. So that own "personal opinion" is worth little. One shouldn't be able to tell difference. To me enough that makers don't advise such, that people that abuse cars most (motorsports) don't use such. My car expenses are already high (due sometimes tracking car too). There are better things (and wearables) to spend on, that actually make difference (or need due replacement).

Alternative view: they are all snake oil, so it doesn't matter which one you use, but you'd be better off not using any. I've never seen a Toyota (or Subaru) recommendation to use any engine treatment.
 

Gains deleting soundtube: quieter cabin, including less road noise passed inside; some dislike "artificialness" of noise it produces; very slight weight gain and cleaner underbonnet space; no (bad) impact on performance (unlike deletion of resonators on intake too).
Cons: i prefer to have that extra noise. When tried to plug it off for test sake, even if it was just subjective feel, but car (with stock exhaust) felt more dull and lifeless, slower (even if just by placebo, as performance by dyno tests is same), so i ended up even going opposite way, installed trd soundtube changer (it costs cheap. In case if i want revert car 100% back to stock, decided to get trd's instead of gutting insides of stock angled plastic piece connecting soundtube to cabin) that made soundtube effect even louder; while some may dislike that soundtube "artificial" intake noise, with stock exhaust it's better then nothing, and much much cheaper then aftermarket exhaust; also unlike aftermarket exhaust, car still stays quiet from outside, it's inside cabin noise that is louder, good for keeping good relationships with neighbors yet hear that extra oumph when flooring :).
I'd say - worth deleting/plugging off if one has aftermarket catback of better tone and louder, but with 100% stock exhaust imho better leave it.
Which is best to you yourself can be easily found out. Just reuse cig-lighter plug cap from glovebox for plugging it off and decide for yourself after some driving, if you want it on or not. No money spent, easy/simply/quickly done, easy to revert. Also can be done temporary, eg. for less tiredness in long trips on autobahns for hours, even while keeping not plugged for generic daily driving. If one prefers by subjective feel during test how car/engine sounds with it plugged off in test drive, then one can go step further and remove soundtube alltogether (as mentioned above, for very slight weight gain and more & cleaner space under bonnet).

sound generator, or "sound tube" is that plastic contraption from side of intake, with resonator in mid, and passing to cabin for more noise inside w/o extra loudness outside.
If better or not with or without it, simplest to test with it plugged off or unplugged in cabin, as it is subjective thing (eg. with stock exhaust i prefer it still operating, as subjectively car/engine seems duller/more lifeless (even if i know it's placebo impression and engine operates 100% same)). For "free plug" for test purposes one can reuse plug of 2nd cig lighter port in glovebox. If one likes better it plugged off, one can consider of doing sound-tube delete, for very slight weight saving and some cleanup of underbonnet space, by plugging off where sound tube connects to intake and where it goes in cabin.

Something like diffuser i'd prefer even before agressive wing, as something hurting drag less. And if upping rear downforce, for balance sake i'd wish to add front splitter for front downforce too. And btw, some extra rear toe-in won't help a bit for more stable rear?

Trackspec look somewhat better in my eyes then verus, and vent a bit better by at least vendor's data, but they don't have rainguards option and cut across strenghtening ribs (though i doubt for it to be any issue, and not letting snow/rain fall on engine imho is overrated too. Going over any puddle of water will splash there few orders more water anyway, no?). Then again rainguards reduce efficiency, and probably as summer/track use considered, worth removing anyway. Still, if one wants "free" temp lowering and some reducing of front lift without adding much drag, vented hood is nice feature to have, and is cheaper then eg. aftermarket CF or FRP hood with vents.
That drag vs downforce would make me aero set that i'd wish - hood vents, rear diffuser and extra underside streamlining panels. Not fan of big ricer wangs, front splitters and canards.

Adjusting tire pressures is nice way for simple & quick grip (or grip bias) adjusting on site, and for testing out some things, but in my book it's worth dialing suspension (alignment's camber/toe, and/or sways rates/misc adjustments of springs & shocks) right, so that when everything else is even, grip & it's bias is right on spot i want, and i can change/adjust using other means if wished both way from "neutral" or do change overall, keeping bias same, instead of keeping in mind pressure delta front/rear.

Imho relatively abnormal popularity of cabrios despite rainy climate is UK specific thing, not sure it would add that much of extra twins sold numbers world wide. I certainly know that i'd never consider cabrio to have heavier, less rigid and more expensive car that is even noisier due less sound insulation, and easier to break into. Only way i'd think of getting such if car had been designed as roofless from ground up and only option possible, like MX5 or S2K. As for good things that cabrios provide .. imho motorcycles are even better at those.
Damn. That mentioned meet looks to me as enviable event i'd much love to get to. Lot's of cars i like, lot's of people with similar tastes/interests, and on top able to meet/talk with Tada san :). 👍

Lauren: no probs if so, after all it was always my policy too, to change tires depending on wear level or three years (on car), whichever arrives sooner.
.. except after buying this car and finding out joys of trackdays no tires lasted on mine that long

Maybe lowers lifespan, but imho it's more about misdesign of early coilpacks, as supposedly updated coilpacks in later years don't show failures with them.

Yeh its back. That was to fill it from empty, I had to change the condenser due to a leak so I know there was nothing in it.

Not wound up due owning oem brakes, but due you labeling everybody on stock brakes as not knowing how to drive, to rise selfworth by belittling others.

Not wound up due owning oem brakes, but due you labeling everybody on stock brakes as not knowing how to drive, to rise selfworth by belittling others.

My build thread is here:-
I've tried six suspension set ups on the 86 and about 15 spring rate set ups. I've also tried a number of alignment set ups. All of this is actual experience on the 86 platform. I haven't tried a BBk on my 86 (although have driven 86's equipped with them) as I don't need one currently. I nearly purchased one earlier this year but have found that endurance pads and uprated fluid are sufficient for the 20-30 minute stints I run so don't see the point of a BBk although I will consider one in the future for the simple reason of cheaper consumables over all. 
I've done around 15 trackdays in the 86 and probably a similar amount of Curborough sprints. 
I've built a number of cars over the last 25 years of driving but none are relevant here as they're not an 86 and what works on one car is not guaranteed to work on another. 
I'm also not telling people that what I've done to my car is the only way and you can't drive if you do anything different to what I've done 🤷‍♂️

Here is my take on this.
Firstly I believe it is a myth that inexperienced drivers that brake early are the one overheating their brakes. The faster you go the more kinetic energy goes into the brakes. If you over brake and take the corner slowly you'll be going slower at the end the straight ect.
Some people are faster than other and that's a fact. Some will struggle to fade DS2500 others will fade them in one lap ect...
 
Jeff is correct you don need a BBK to track a GT86. Proper race pads that work best when the disc is glowing will give you fade free performance for ~20min track sessions. TMG racecars used to run Project Mu999 then switched to carbotech for long disc life until they eventually fitted Alcon brake kits. 
I ran project Mu Racer 999 which are not the best race pad by any means but they didnt fade after 30minute at bedford on a supercharged car. 
However there are drawbacks:
1) Disc wear was high. I took 25% of the disc life in one trackday.
2) They are not road friendly at all; screeching, grinding and poor bite at low temp. So you have to switch pads out.
3) The high temperature can damage the piston seals in the caliper meaning they need rebuilding more often; one of my calipers was leaking after the bedford trackday
4) Even if the caliper doesnt leak, the dust boots will get burned up, exposing the steel piston to road salt leading to eventual seizing. 
5) you might have to use race fluid which needs changing more often
 
So I fitted a 355mm x 32mm 6 pot AP kit so I could run soft road friendly pads on road or track and never worry about reliability as the disc never goes much beyond 350C. Its a choice I made for convenience. Does it stop faster than stock caliper and Project mu 999? Not a chance.
In the early 90s the 600+HP 230+mph Mclaren F1 came with 330mmx28mm discs. It also came with race pads and if you watch some of the youtube videos you will find they screech like buggery. They also dont hold up very long on track. 
Now you buy a £1M hypercar and they come with 400+mm ceramic brakes  with 8 pot calipers and you can drive on road or track and never worry and they are super quiet and work in cold conditions. 
 
Racecars use race calipers and use the smallest, lightest disc they can get away with. Different kettle of fish and not recommend for UK winter driving. Yes Church lack of dust boot mean salt ingress and your steel pistons will eventually seize or become pitted and leak. 
 
A the end of the day it choice of convenience but my goal was a car I could drive on road or track and it will handle it in it stride. 
 

That's because the well designed kits aren't designed to shift bias. You use piston area and disc size to maintain the balance, a BBK isn't primarily for improved braking distances, it's to get the heat out the system for longevity.

Check Verus hood vent set of four. Made to fit in those "windows". Trackspec motorsports vent set of two but bigger ones goes/cuts across some.
As for impact, they work and they do reduce underbonnet temps and also add a bit front downforce.
What one should take care of: to cut in right places, where there is low pressure zone, not before or after it. Also if rain/snow worries, maybe also optional rain guards (for eg. verus set).

If one cannot remove it with hand tools, it was too tight. There is specific torque value lugnuts needs to be tightened, and that torque is well within what hand tools should be capable of. Our cars in boot have stock lugnut wrench (for changing to spare emergencies), which should provide very aproximated somewhat right torque, due which it is of specific length(lever length). At least if one uses tube over that wrench for longer lever, that would be "overtightening with hand tools"
.. some googling for torque value returned:
Manual reference number: AIM 004 425 - 4
https://www.toyota-tech.eu/Aim/Aim2.aspx?pubtype=AIM&menuitem=1
https://www.toyota-tech.eu/aimuploads/9001c475-3fa4-4bb5-994d-86f55a1f54d2/Torque_values_for_Alloy_wheels_Steel_wheels_Wheel_lock_Toyota_AIM_004_425_4.pdf
GT86    Mar'12-         Wheel Nut Torque (N*m): 120     TPMS/TWMS Torque (N*m) 4
For aluminum aftermarket lugnuts it might be less, who knows.
I don't think that some water getting in might be at fault. Exactly for that these are -closed-end-lugnuts-. Now sloppy tire tech that cluelessly impact overtightened imho is much more possible :).

And why Nicola will never see the invoices for mine! 😂