Church

Nigel's were the original ohlins and he had just Flex A's - no edfc.
Meister R has excellent customer service and refunded my money. I'll say no more.
Motons are amazing. Low speed ride is not as good as e.g. the Flex A's but they are much better on big bumps, potholes, etc and at high speed they are amazing.

They took a full day on Bedford (approx 175 track miles) and behaved as the PS4's did. The wear was very limited so no reason to believe they won't last reasonably well. 

@Church I did longer sessions on track on these than I did on the PS4's and felt they took longer to overheat. Obviously they are a road not track tyre though.

Well, then it just ups the statistic, that these mounts unlike whiteline com-c so far work fine for most and can be considered for those that wish more camber w/o compromising NVH.

Hmm, from looks of those LCAs, they have also adjustment of track .. but doesn't that adjustment not only changes track, but also changes camber? And toe adjusment, doesn't it change both toe & camber? In general, by that painted line over trick over you may check everything that is adjustable in suspension, to see culprit, which had moved, not just camberbolts. Also, what struts you have? Maybe height adjustable? Do adjusting collars stay snug? In general, as many using camberbolts also auto-x or HPDE their cars including going over kerbs, and for most camberbolts stay as they were when tightened, i suspect something else at fault. If for camberbolts themselves - then eg. misused some type of grease which may reduce friction and increase chance of slip.
If it's single clunk over bumps .. hmm, i'd check state of bushings and wheel bearing. Metallic clunk .. especially i'd check state of pillowball bushings, if somewhere are such, and also if some tie/endlink doesn't rub somewhere. For me source of metallic clunk over some bumps was eg. when topmounts where pillowball camberplates :), hence what i wished to fix by reverting to rubber topmounts but retaining extra camber. Seen cases in forums of eg. some aftermarket suspension/coilovers/swaybars combo, where with specific endlink length it rubbed when that corner was bottomed out.

Hmm, interesting. Can you post a link, what are those widetrack LCAs?
As for camberbolts, weird. Imho something is off/wrong. They shouldn't slip, normally torqued, they don't for most, if they do, probably there had been some some heavy hit to suspension, that might aswell also bend something. Hmm, maybe you have applied some antiseize grease or alike? (which should increase torque value to provide same level of friction to not slip .. maybe even past camberbolt shearing torque). Well, regarding camberbolts usage i may add two hints i've seen in forums: 1) when adjusting alignment, at end worth to paint line over bolt head & joint, so that one can see, if it has moved or not, and one can easily turn back to orig position, 2) seen DIY ways to ensure for bolts to never slip (though they were mentioned more in context of bolt within larger, slotted strut hole, less about lobed camberbolts) - to glue it. Saw mentions of eg. blue loctite, paint or even fingernail paint , to apply under washer sides and head of the bolt and under flange of the nut.
Also, can you be more specific on describing that clunking noise? I wonder if it is from topmounts at all. Issues with topmounts noises usually are when their bearing binds, so then when turning wheel lock to lock there might be noises of coil spring "skipping" in spring perch.
But that binding bearing / skipping spring noise is just from turning wheel, not exactly clunking when driving over bumps, as you wrote, so makes me think if topmount is source of that at all?

To me was more actual (in track use context) total camber i could net. As in, if i could or couldn't get front camber to -3 w/o resorting to install camberplates or not.
BTW, you still have option of powerflex bushings. Imho they might be safer possible issues wise. Those eccentric LCA bushings go in rearward joint, that, if i get it right, mostly moves in just one axis, unlike front LCA bushing, where eg. eccentric whiteline bushings for some fail.

Hmm, so far no complaints, "just works" and no issues to report. For about, hmm, IIRC ~ 5K miles and coincidentally also 2 trackdays. I'm now fighting with other suspension parts problems .. as in it seems that unexpectedly hard to buy bilstein B6, with most sellers inquired turning out restocking with those no sooner then in two months

"Depends". There are such that buy it purely for sportish-coupe-ish looks, there are such, that decided upon online video reviews raving about it's handling. Some that like to play around, and some that want absolute performance. Thing is .. grippy tires turn to very different type of handling, and one thing stock not that powerful/torqy engine and not exactly sport-level-stiff suspension paired with limited grip tires, and another - if you pair it with grippy & wide tires (like some do so .. interestingly often guiding in that not for grip, but for "looks"). Lot of points that were voiced in those reviews, lot of first impressions from first drives may become moot. It's not as if it will make car worse, grippy tires will make it - different. And i've seen not only threads of "i installed better tires X, car should have come as such from factory", but also threads like "what other tires would feel like primacies", and where people reverted tire change due not liking grippier/not playful change, or loosing steering sharpness and alike.
To each his own. Different people may have different subjective preferences. Imho simply worth experiencing both ways so that choice is done in educated fashion, by knowing what one will like best, what changes one wishes over what has been before. I myself have had my share of fun on primacies and now moved up for more capable tires on track, but i certainly not regret of having driven on those and wouldn't write them off as something inherently bad.

Hello Dave, welcome aboard.
I've had my car seven years and have driven 148,000 miles in it from new. In that time I've had the opportunity to try different tyres. I've also driven a fair amount of other people's GT86's too. 
I kept the Primacy tyre for the first 25,000 miles or so. I think it's good to learn the balance of the car with this tyre. You can play with it at low speeds and it's a lot of fun, bringing out the playful nature of what is an excellent and well balanced chassis. The Primacy tyre is also fantastic fun on track if you so wish. After about 4 laps they go off, but stay consistent and you can just slide and drift the car all day. They last really well too. 
That said, they aren't the most progressive tyre and it can be a bit tricky in the wet. Yes in low temperatures in greasy conditions they can prove tricky, though that is true of any tyre. 
Everyone will tell you to fit Michelin Pilot 4 tyres. Whilst they are a great tyre, they take away from the playfulness of the chassis. They are a a great choice if you are not a confident or experienced driver as for the most part they will totally tame the car and you'll feel more confident. I have these on my car because I sprint my car and they are the most competitive tyre in class, giving around a 1.5-2 second advantage on a sprint lap. Yes, at high speeds you can still slide the car and have fun, providing you are committed, but the speeds at which you do this mean that you will not really be able to do so on the public road. 
The PS4 is great in the wet too. In fact they are utterly brilliant in the wet, a point I have underlined whenever it is wet in the Toyota Sprint Series, which will see all of us running them at the top of the leaderboard. 
I like the PS4, it's a great tyre. But, you have to push it to have fun on the road. 
Another really good choice is the Yokohama Advan Sport V105. I have gone through 5 sets of these and would have carried on with them were it not for them not being competitive in the sprint series I compete in. They are perhaps the best balance between grip and playfullness for the GT86. They are more progressive than the Primacy but not as grippy as the PS4. This means you can still have fun drifting a roundabout or on a decent B-road blast. They do really well on track too and  you can slide the car around just as well as the Primacy. 
If I wasn't competing in the sprint series I would run a V105 instead of a PS4. It makes the car far more fun to drive. 
The other point to note is that I use stock 215/45/17 sizes albeit on a forged lightweight 17x8 wheel. If you like to play with the chassis do not make the mistake putting on wider tyres. All it does is detract from the fun and add unsprung weight. 

Well, i'm maybe using it a bit different context, as main meaning, which can be for example googled, as "tendency of wheels to follow contours in the surface upon which it runs".
I'm using more with meaning like - "car has way too much grip for it's capabilities" / "over-tyred" / "car can be driven without care floored everywhere, not dropping speed anywhere" / "always having more grip then needed, needing intentional very stupid driver inputs to overcome grip/traction". In exaggerated fashion - "mini on formula track slicks", car drives like tram on rails no matter what you do.
Just that many may like for giggles some playfulness here and there, especially if those some tire chirps here and there, or small extra rear rotations, or some intentional tire spins do happen at still slow/legal speeds, and may miss with more grippier tires. With later - of course one can still loose grip .. subjective fun aside, problem being, the more grip tire has, that loosing grip now will happen eg. at higher speeds, in more abrupt manner, with less reaction time to correct.
Of course i've seen also line of thought - those "prius" primacies have too little grip, i need to install grippy tires, now car drives "as it should come from factory" .. but from my experiences, when i still had primacies (for around 10-15K daily driven miles and then 4 trackdays, to "finish them off" :)), i still could drive on average a bit faster then (admittedly heavier or less powerful family) cars i drove before (if average speed in same roundabout counts), and yes, car will loose grip/traction when eg. giving gas mid turn, or when going in some turn faster then tire grip allows .. but that doesn't mean that tires are bad, that doesn't mean that right way to "fix" is not to adjust own driver inputs to not mindlessly push everywhere but adding in that much tire grip for it to be more then own wrong inputs may overcome. IIRC twins with stock primacy hp tires pulled 0.89 g on skidpad. I'm not willing to classify that as "bad tires", and one can drive with them without any grip/traction loss aswell .. imho there is misimpression that normal cars have more grip comes from them usually having softer suspension>more roll, which subjectively tells driver to ease off, while twins roll less, thus one guiding by subjective feel/habbits push more .. till grip loss, and then labels these tires as gripless. As to mention that they do bad in cold & wet .. well, they are not winter nor all-season tires. So even if UK winters are relatively warm and snow-less, i'd simply change to all-seasons from mid-autumn to mid-spring. When i drive in rain, i simply push less, drive slower/more careful - it's common sense to do so on other cars, why it should be wrong to do same on these cars/on primacy tires? It's driver duty to drive within car capabilities/available grip/road specifics, adjusting oneself, not requesting that only right way is to mod car to enable not minding how one drives. Yes, for example mentioned PS4 have fenomenal wet grip, to level that it surprised me, remembering track day soon after fitting them, where speed/laptime didn't drop that much in morning when track was still wet, yes, primacies grip less .. but that change is not required, and primacies are usuable, and there are good bits too in having less grip like on Chris Harris video, where he changed all four tires to space-saver donuts on AMG merc and took around track .
So imho there is nothing wrong when buying twin to drive it on those stock primacies and they are fine for learning/familiarizing with car .. just that i wouldn't get them as next set because of price and because trackdays joined my hobby list

Well, i'm maybe using it a bit different context, as main meaning, which can be for example googled, as "tendency of wheels to follow contours in the surface upon which it runs".
I'm using more with meaning like - "car has way too much grip for it's capabilities" / "over-tyred" / "car can be driven without care floored everywhere, not dropping speed anywhere" / "always having more grip then needed, needing intentional very stupid driver inputs to overcome grip/traction". In exaggerated fashion - "mini on formula track slicks", car drives like tram on rails no matter what you do.
Just that many may like for giggles some playfulness here and there, especially if those some tire chirps here and there, or small extra rear rotations, or some intentional tire spins do happen at still slow/legal speeds, and may miss with more grippier tires. With later - of course one can still loose grip .. subjective fun aside, problem being, the more grip tire has, that loosing grip now will happen eg. at higher speeds, in more abrupt manner, with less reaction time to correct.
Of course i've seen also line of thought - those "prius" primacies have too little grip, i need to install grippy tires, now car drives "as it should come from factory" .. but from my experiences, when i still had primacies (for around 10-15K daily driven miles and then 4 trackdays, to "finish them off" :)), i still could drive on average a bit faster then (admittedly heavier or less powerful family) cars i drove before (if average speed in same roundabout counts), and yes, car will loose grip/traction when eg. giving gas mid turn, or when going in some turn faster then tire grip allows .. but that doesn't mean that tires are bad, that doesn't mean that right way to "fix" is not to adjust own driver inputs to not mindlessly push everywhere but adding in that much tire grip for it to be more then own wrong inputs may overcome. IIRC twins with stock primacy hp tires pulled 0.89 g on skidpad. I'm not willing to classify that as "bad tires", and one can drive with them without any grip/traction loss aswell .. imho there is misimpression that normal cars have more grip comes from them usually having softer suspension>more roll, which subjectively tells driver to ease off, while twins roll less, thus one guiding by subjective feel/habbits push more .. till grip loss, and then labels these tires as gripless. As to mention that they do bad in cold & wet .. well, they are not winter nor all-season tires. So even if UK winters are relatively warm and snow-less, i'd simply change to all-seasons from mid-autumn to mid-spring. When i drive in rain, i simply push less, drive slower/more careful - it's common sense to do so on other cars, why it should be wrong to do same on these cars/on primacy tires? It's driver duty to drive within car capabilities/available grip/road specifics, adjusting oneself, not requesting that only right way is to mod car to enable not minding how one drives. Yes, for example mentioned PS4 have fenomenal wet grip, to level that it surprised me, remembering track day soon after fitting them, where speed/laptime didn't drop that much in morning when track was still wet, yes, primacies grip less .. but that change is not required, and primacies are usuable, and there are good bits too in having less grip like on Chris Harris video, where he changed all four tires to space-saver donuts on AMG merc and took around track .
So imho there is nothing wrong when buying twin to drive it on those stock primacies and they are fine for learning/familiarizing with car .. just that i wouldn't get them as next set because of price and because trackdays joined my hobby list

Oh, new car owner? Then yes, nothing wrong with stock primacies. They are often misdeservedly ill spoken of, but in reality are good normal tires. Less grip will net more playfulness/fun at slower speeds. They have relatively stiff sidewalls, good/sharp steering feel, wear well and help fuel economy. I wouldn't get them for second set because they are overpriced, but if you get "free set" with new car, imho best choice to wear them down instead of changing tires right away. Mentioned MPS4 will have higher grip .. but that will also mean less playful car, more "tramlining", at least in daily driving.

Common choice - michelin pilot sport 4.

Common choice - michelin pilot sport 4.

Stutopia: your brz pics reminded me a bit of BSTiRDized one

Check this thread.

Check this thread.

Check this thread.

Well, i'd probably invest more in actual tracking and track wearables like tires & pads, then in modding out car. Imho "driver experience mod" cuts down laptimes most of any car mods . Seen also cases where one invests hell of a lot to make car "track ready" in his eyes .. and never actually go to track , while there are plenty old beaters close to stock in trackday. Including taxis & delivery vans, lol
Quemadillo: in your case i'd first go for a bit more minimal approach.
Get parts for performance alignment (eg. for front: SPC 81305 camberbolt set (optionally also Whiteline KCA416 camberbolt set), PED-580096 top mounts, Powerflex front LCA bushings PFF69-801G, for rear some from cheaper adjustable aftermarket LCAs (eg. stock-alike stamped steel clones like from SPC/Whiteline/Eibach)) and then dial performance alignment better fit for track. +more track oriented pads that will work better even at higher temps. (btw, the more track specialized, the more pads may have issues with off track daily driving use, like squaling noise/dust/extra rotor wear/worse cold stops, thus imho preferable approach is to have two pad sets, one for daily driving, another - for trackday, and switch between pad sets according use, to have best of both and to not suffer deficiencies of neither).
If moving up for even grippier tires, if going for even longer track sessions, then i'd think of BBK. (but not needed for me, as due my age, i get tired some even with 15min sessions, after that 100% concentration starts to drop, thus prefering after that to drive back to cool brakes, drink coffee, smoke cigarette :), with no felt wish to keep driving non-stop 20-30min long no matter what.
And only then at some point in future considering aftermarket coilovers. Not sure if some like KW ClubSport ones, as imho those are too expensive, and may compromise comfort for dual-used also daily driven car, and extra adjustments also mean ability to adjust/dial wrong, and unless one drives each lap very consistently, it is hard to properly test/evaluate changes to dial better, as one might not know, if logged lap time was from suspension adjustment, or from doing less costly mistakes in that session . Coilovers by themselves don't improve times that much. And are not requirement for camber adjustment.
 

Even on stock primacies stock brake pads are a bit insufficient imho. So i'd change pads & fluid anyway. On primacies with rbf600 & ds2500 fade started to appear if at session i kept driving after 15min.
Then again, brake fade isn't something catastrophic. Usually doesn't happen suddenly like on/off switch, but at one point starts to appear and increase, signaling driver that it's time to slow down pace and go for brake cooling lap, and in next session drive for minute or two less (with same brake usage intensity).

Lauren: Essex kits (sprint & endurance) are popular in US AP-racing race caliper front-only BBKs by known in field brake shop, that retain braking bias with rear stock brakes, and have common & thick brakepad shapes, letting to use wide pad selection & save a lot on wearables on top of usual BBK benefits (of thermal capacity/cooling/weight reduction). Race calipers though, so not that good for DD, at least where there is winter with roadsalt. And US based shop, thus less competitive offering on this side of pond.

I'd check also if there is no problem with parking brake. It's not always main brakes at fault. Meanwhile, can you (eg. using emergency jack) lift car and pinpoint which exactly wheel is not free spinning? Front? Rear? Left? Right?

Toyota also had cloth seats with red inserts (where orange parts in your last brz seats pic are), at least such was gt86 of my collegue.

There is no 'performance pack' option for UK BRZ's. Only the GT86 Blue Edition has it.