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Winterhalder

Eibach springs and coilovers

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I personally am anti-coilover. I've owned a few sets on various cars and find them to be too hard even on the softest settings.

Personally if I don't like the handling of my cars (and the GT86 isnt one of them, I love the stock suspension) I tend to go with decent shock/spring upgrades. Something like TRD Sports Dampers and TRD Lowered springs.

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Fitting/mounting is relatively easy. But after that one needs to perform alignment, which in DIY form is major PITA, takes lot of time, and usually makes sense to be done in shop on laser alignment rig.

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Why would you attempt to fit springs yourself but not coilovers? Its exactly the same scope of work.

You haven't mentioned what your intentions are, are you lowering for looks? Improved performance? Better ride quality? 

Those pro street coilovers look suspiciously like rebranded Bilsteins.

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3 hours ago, 86iain said:

To fit lowering springs you need compressors. To fit coilovers you don't.

Spring compressors are a bit iffy.

 

You do when you need to reuse the stop mounts as per those coilovers.

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On 6/15/2021 at 5:33 PM, Church said:

Fitting/mounting is relatively easy. But after that one needs to perform alignment, which in DIY form is major PITA, takes lot of time, and usually makes sense to be done in shop on laser alignment rig.

This is the big one to be honest. That and the fact you'll need camber bolts for the front and replacement suspension arms for the rear to get the geometry sorted.

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Fitting can be straightforward when you know what you’re doing, I wouldn’t call it easy.

Transferring the top mounts is a bit of a faff, can be tricky to tighten adequately onto the coil over as you may need to grip the shaft to stop it spinning.

It’s an easier job to fit coil overs that come with their own top mounts.

The front drop links tend to put up a fight and may need a word with an angle grinder. It’s worth having replacements ready to fit.

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Neil-h: in general, our cars as stock have front and rear toe adjustment. While it's nice to have camber adjustability, even more so if one wishes non-standard alignment (eg. optimized for track), for no handling artifacts (or abnormal tire wear) getting toe right is more important. Unfortunately while it's cheap to gain camber adjustability for front via camberbolts, for rear, if one wishes camber adjustability, one needs more expensive then plain camberbolts adjustable LCA-s. (there are other ways too, but one - eccentric bushings while are cheaper, are PITA to adjust and work to install them may rise total cost to more then LCA+work, and another - adjustable UCAs are even more expensive then LCAs).

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17 hours ago, ThatGuyThere said:

Neither of those are required!

Whilst not mandatory, definitely recommended.

I have camber bolts and LCAs on lowering springs and I'm glad I did. I could offset the increased camber on the rear caused by lowering it whilst dialling in some at the front. The balance is lovely. 

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If those Bilstein coilovers are using the same bodies as KW which I think they are, the fronts are adjustable for camber at the bottom via a slotted hole, so you do not need an adjustable top mount or camber bolt.

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