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GT86 Racecar build

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Which accusump did you go for btw, the race one or the normal one? I believe the race one can recharge itself alot quicker but you have to make sure it does not draw too much pressure.

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Oh while I remember, I had fuel starvation issues with my car when under half a tank after fitting a aftermarket fuel pump. You can mod the pump hanger so the fuel pump sits lower or there is a company which sell a flap which holds more fuel in the built in swirl tank in the pump hanger.

Something like this

http://www.maddat.com.au/engine/toyota-86-subaru-brz-anti-surge-fuel-flap

A few companies make them

For reference I was running pilot sports, 255 rear and 235 front. I was running updated injectors, fuel pimp etc when I had the issue.

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Final thought/question. Did you do anything in regard to the oil temp sensor as it sits right in the oil gally. In theory causing some restriction. I was reading on the yank forum people have relocated them.

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Hi Mate

On the Accusump I went with the Canton recommendation which was a 2qt unit, from what I can tell Fensport actually run the bigger 3qt but I wanted to install it in the battery location and in combination with my baffled larger sump I think I’ll be OK.

I’m not aware of a specific race version to be honest, the variations seem to be the valve that you use, they recommend a manual valve or the electronic valve with pressure switch for race cars, which is what I’ve gone with but obviously I’ve deviated from that somewhat by adding sensors and having the AIM MXP control it.

Thanks for the heads up on the fuel pump and starvation issue too, I see Fensport have the door flap on their site so I might pick that up at some stage and fit it too. I run on both slicks and R888 so I’ll probably see similar.

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On the oil temp sensor I just left it in the stock location, I toyed with the idea of shiming it back out a little bit in the end I just left it as is for the moment.

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So finally over the weekend I got the new engine to fire up. When I initially tried to start the engine on its base map I just couldn’t get it to start. I checked over everything and got my tuner logged on remotely and we began to trouble-shoot. I initially thought maybe the new fuel pump was acting up but the newly installed pressure sensor was showing good pressure (paying for itself already!)

 

The issue was manifesting as stall on cranking which we thought was maybe a lack of cranking amps from the battery, which to be fair we had stressed while trying to trouble shoot. I really couldn’t understand where the issue was coming from but I had my suspicion that the battery was probably not the issue.

 

Then by chance while researching the issue on-line I came across this article and it all started to sound too familiar. https://www.picoauto.com/library/cas...gine-non-start

 

Just to be sure I dug out some photos I’d taken during assembly and sure enough I could tell I had made the same mistake when setting the timing. And it appears I’m not the first to have done it either.

 

Having gone through the OEM manual again I can see exactly how I made the mistake, luckily when you do make this mistake you essentially set the right bank 180Deg out of phase so there is no valve interference but it does mean the front cover has to come off. In the end I opted to strip the front off the car and do it in situ.

 

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Once the timing was sorted the engine fired up first turn of the key. I haven’t run it up to temperature yet as it will be broken in on the dyno, so I can’t tell how many oil leaks I have yet....but fingers crossed!

 

Once that was completed I spent a bit of time configuring the CANBUS signals between the Motec ECU and AIM dash. Currently I have the oil pressure sensor routed directly to the AIM dash to control the Accumsump but I plan to re-wire it via the Motec to utilise the inbuilt rev cut, then relay the signal over CANBUS to the AIM dash.

 

As the AIM Dash is receiving two CANBUS signals (ECU, and OEM Chassis CAN) but it can only run its inbuilt template on one channel I’ve had to remap the OEM chassis signals on the second channel. It’s quiet simple to do once you know the addresses etc. The info might be useful to other 86 owners so the signals I’ve mapped are below. I’ve only mapped these few as they are the main ones I’m after.

 

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So that’s it for now, my final part still hasn’t arrived yet but as soon as lockdown is lifted it will be off for dyno tuning.

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So the car made it onto the dyno yesterday for tuning 😀

Pretty pleased with the results,  made just over 11psi, and the torque curve holds nicely from just beyond 4,500 rpm up to 6250 rpm which is mapped really nicely for a centrifugal charger IMHO.

Peak power comes in around 6250 - 6750 rpm so means I won't have to chase the redline to get the best out of it on track and hopefully will keep me in the range of good oil pressures too.

 

MAP pressure.JPG

Combined Torque BHP.JPG

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Did a few calculations based on the revised gear ratios with the PAR gear set. To see how it fits with the torque curve.

Should see me stay in the meaty region in all but the 1-2 shift.

b08593b04a174bd8ac97bc0a9cc19599.jpg

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It’s been a little while since I updated this thread, but I have completed the last few modifications and got two trackdays under its belt

 

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The first trackday was just to get the engine broken in, while all went well I did however notice that oil temps were rising quite rapidly, and I typically don’t like to see over 110 Deg C.

 

Prior to the power hike and engine build oil temps were easily kept in check with the HKS oil cooler but after the first outing I reckoned more air needed to be directed to the cooler. Best option was to remove the lower bumper lights and replace with mesh, I opted to do both sides just to keep the symmetry

 

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Last little addition was an AIM smarty-cam to connect up to the dash, I’ve messed with GoPros for a while but always find it fiddly and more often than not I forget to turn it on or its battery runs out, whereas this logs constantly and the instant data overlays is very handy

 

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Some footage from the first try, I have some fiddling to do with the track map settings but otherwise it was very easy to use and setup.

 

 

Best to disregard some of the lines in the video above, I’m still recalibrating with the increase in power and lack of track-time recently but it certainly has the makings of a fast car, also a new set of tyres are required

 

After the first two track-days there are two items on the list to address

 

I seem to have developed what can be heard in the video as an issue on 3rd to 2nd downshifts, which I reckon is synchro related, I’ll have to look into it at some stage but I’ll give it another day or two before pulling the gearbox again.

 

Second and more pressing issue is noise, I’m currently too loud for track easily over 106db so it will be off shortly to get a new repack-able rear section, and a bolt on secondary silencer that I can attach trackside if need for some of the even more stringent tracks like Oulton etc.

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Always good to see an update from you.

 

I am running the HKS oil cooler with some of the fog light covers which have a hole to let air in for the cooler. When I was supercharged it was not enough and I saw 115 c at snetertton quite easily. I am no means the fastest driver either. Now with the turbo kit and more power I think I will struggle. My plan was to duct the oil cooler next but I am starting to look at water to oil coolers.

 

Car sounds great in the video and looks a proper piece of kit.

 

Is that the IRP shifter, how have you got on with it, it's something I keep wanting to get for mine but I am worried it's not suitable for a road car

 

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Always good to see an update from you.
 
I am running the HKS oil cooler with some of the fog light covers which have a hole to let air in for the cooler. When I was supercharged it was not enough and I saw 115 c at snetertton quite easily. I am no means the fastest driver either. Now with the turbo kit and more power I think I will struggle. My plan was to duct the oil cooler next but I am starting to look at water to oil coolers.
 
Car sounds great in the video and looks a proper piece of kit.
 
Is that the IRP shifter, how have you got on with it, it's something I keep wanting to get for mine but I am worried it's not suitable for a road car
 


Hi Dom

Yes it’s the IRP V3, it took a little getting used to on the first day. The base plate also slid forward mid session on my first outing as the mounting plate has slotted holes, and you really need to tighten the sucker down, and yet there was no mounting bolts supplied in the kit which I thought strange, luckily I had some suitable ones to hand.

All in though I think it’s good but I couldn’t see myself putting it on a street car if I’m honest.

Regarding temps, I’m not pushing the car particularly hard in that video and yet oil temps are high, you can see the flashing light on the AIM dash.

I may have to look at more ducting as I would like to keep temps as low as possible as they have a significant impact on oil pressures.

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Re: Irp quick shifter v3, had it on my previous gt86 as a road car. 

Positives:

1. Shifting is amazing, it is sitting next to steering wheel, so you can get faster shifts (hand does not need to travel so far).

2. The shifter travel from 1st to 2nd and so on is shorter than oem, at least that is the impression I had.

3. Looks nice when you spend the time to get everytnihg in place, almost like oem finish.

 

Negatives:

1. It gets all the noises from the gearbox to the cabin, so forget about listening to classical music. There is no suspension between the gearbox and the shifter, no rubbers, etc. So you will get more noise with acceleration

2. If you want to at least get some noise away, be prepared to test and try few improvements over the irp design (using foam or rubber or anything to quiet down the noise and hum).

3. Irp is know to have a ratlle and I had that as well, especially when hitting higher rpms, also can be resolved. There was a long discussion about it on US owners club forum.

https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=126464

4. Price / improvement of drive and time spent on shifting?

In the end it is a good product for track use. I have owned IRP shifter but now I would try the CAE shifter. Just my opinion.

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So it was time to address the noise issue ahead of any more trackdays. I wanted to go with something that would work in Mondello@106db, but also be able to work on stricter tracks too. The solution I went with is a large repackable rear silencer, with a V-band on the exit for installing a removable secondary barrel silencer

 

ACtC-3c9Ggmnh4w2GQ_F5zjzN1uqlcG_00k4tXr26_2NQ4RZe4cw4BfiI3loYSCFAb2v4eL4rMIL1UffTUXMjHjpogQKSHrABsb73Vh-PWOeGNjmRbdT7HV5hWnH_Tll3o8usP7jh698kxJb5T7nEc3I3r3_=w1471-h882-no?authuser=0

 

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So with the new exhaust fitted the rear bumper valance was looking a little odd with no center exit tailpipes, I toyed with a few ideas but in the end I decided it was probably just easiest to block up the hole and mount a rain light in it. While I was at it I decided to repair the damage caused by the heat of the old exhaust.

 

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I got as far as repairing the damage and mocking up the rain light but will have to send it off for painting before refitting to the car

 

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I hadn’t really planned the next mod but a little man maths and my inherent weakness for billet parts was just too much to resist

 

Initially I was thinking along the usual route of buying individual suspension parts control arms, toe rods etc but the Wisefab kits actually make more sense and they have the added benefit of beautiful billet uprights which have a built in 25mm drop on the knuckles all round.

 

I always associated Wisefab with drifting parts but they also make track kits that maintain the original track widths front and rear, giving pretty much all the adjustment you could ever want. More important for me though was that fact the kits correct the suspension geometry for lowered cars, whilst also saving 14kg on the rear and 7kg up front which is pretty significant on a suspension system.

 

Rear Kit

 

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Front kit

 

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I’ve only managed to fit the rear so far, unfortunately I couldn’t source the rear kit in black. Its a relatively straight forward install, but did require a few tweaks to the AP racing 4 pot calliper bracket to make it work with the billet knuckles mounting points.

 

Side by Side of the old OEM components and new Wisefab rear kit

 

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New Bits installed on the rear, you can really see just how high the hub is placed in the new knuckle

 

ACtC-3cUIasOApVvML8UweSMPs7bMiOjDpVbca04u7QbE8zW9mueJ-JTziwwdaGIiE53OlPJ-oJnQc2xOVkBrd842-BasoF561UzAil4lTsDy6fzTUUpU1dcr1MIKIY7wCklQsgLQUGCdbfKtEN3uG_10g5-=w662-h882-no?authuser=0

 

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Hopefully I’ll get a decent run at the front over the next week or so, and then carry out a quick alignment before the next track day.

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What’s the quality of the Wisefab kit like? I’ve frequently found myself looking at the wide steering angle kit wishing I could justify the cost 😂

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What’s the quality of the Wisefab kit like? I’ve frequently found myself looking at the wide steering angle kit wishing I could justify the cost 

I’ve found the overall quality to be superb, the billet uprights and front lower control arms really look great,

I can’t find fault with anything in the kits to be honest.

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Over the weekend I got around to installing the front track kit.

 

In theory it’s a more straightforward install than the rear as you have less components to deal with, however the design of the lower control arm requires a small cut to the chassis to give it clearance.

 

I tackled the LHS first, and in a way I’m lucky that I tackled this job now as I noticed that my camber bolt on the passenger side was very loose!!! Not sure how, and really surprised I didn’t feel it on track.

 

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I tried to minimise the cutting required to the chassis, as I’m not a fan of removing OEM material/spot welds.

 

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Finally got the rear bumper back from painting too, and couldn’t resist throwing it on to see how it looks with the rain light installed.

 

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It’s been a little while since I updated this thread

In between lockdowns here in Ireland I did manage to get the car to my friend who preps racecars and he kindly did an alignment and corner weighting for me before I hit the track for the first time since the wisefab install.

The car was actually sitting quite low by the time I reached my friends workshop before the setup was completed, mostly due to the car settling quite a lot in the trailer while I was transporting it. We just decided to leave it low and set up the geometry to see how it would work on track

The first day out was a revelation, I can honestly say the suspension made a massive difference in the cars handling, but in particular to the rear end grip levels, it was putting down the power so much better, and the lateral grip was excellent, I found just over 1 second within the first handful of laps just purely from the confidence it gave me.

While at the track-day the organizers asked if I they could take a couple of photos for a feature piece on their website, I was more than happy to oblige and got some really nice shots as a result

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However all did not go to plan during the trackday and I was hearing a lot of wheel rubbing in the arches. The car was sitting quite low and it’s wasn’t a major surprise but it was a little bit of a headache.

The KW V3 suspension I’m running does not have independent ride height adjustment, the height set using the spring seats only. The wisefab kit had given a considerable ride height drop via the knuckles and as a result the struts at the rear were already wound up quite high, and in turn this was leaving me with minimal droop on the rear suspension which is not ideal.

I wasn’t sure what exactly I would do to remedy it, I was looking at changing my suspension setup but there are limited high end options that have independent ride height adjustment, and in truth I quite like the KW setup......so I kept searching until I stumbled across the Subaru obsession with lift kits

Thanks to the crossover fitment with the BRZ and a lot of it’s more rugged Subaru cousins I was able to find a set of shock tower poly spacers that would raise the ride height and actually let me drop the spring seats at the rear a little lower and regain some droop

ACtC-3c4DceCTsPU5dWwmURnLHVe7G3OqXPnYA_j

 

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I’ve yet to get back out on track with the ride height now raised, and I’ll also have to get the car realigned and corner weighted again once I get the ride height dialled in with no rubbing going on but at least I have a solution now.

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Those photos look fantastic. How comes the helper spring is fully compressed? Is that normal? 

It’s just a consequence of the height the spring seats are set at, the shock is fully extended but the main spring is not completely unloaded so the helper remains compressed, it’s probably a good demonstration of the limited droop I was experiencing, the spring seats have been lowered a little since that photo but the helpers are still pretty much fully compressed

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Erm is there a reason as to why you’ve installed the helper spring below the coil spring instead of on top? I’ve got a set of V3’s and I’m just curious as to whether I’ve missed a trick.

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