Jump to content
Mike

BBK Options

Recommended Posts

Think this has itScreenshot_20190415-202608__01.thumb.jpg.55f2f553055ccf8549a79a73b015af81.jpg
 
Thanks, worth working it out for the car in question tho.

That assumes OEM car. Stock suspension, stock rake, stock tyres sizes, no weight reduction or other mods which affect weight balance like adding a turbo etc to the front.

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 4/15/2019 at 9:39 AM, Varelco said:

Lots of good info in this thread, @AJ124 I see in Laurens thread you emailed Godspeed about their kit, did you get a reply with anymore info?

No, emailed twice and lost interest. Tbh I have put some club racers in the stock callipers, can do 25min sessions on Silverstone GP without any fade at all. Not sure I need a bbk just yet. 

Only reason for upgrade imo is reduced consumables cost. Club racers do not come cheap!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Reduced consumables cost - i guess one needs to check out pricing & commonality for pad shapes and disks of specific BBK. If for Essex Sprint set it was one of goals, to choose calipers with common pads and with extra material thickness & also extra thick rotors lasting longer, it's not given that all other BBKs on market will have such.

As for pad price .. i have ready for next season CSG spec C1 pad set. With shipping price spiked to 1025eur .. and there still was import tax & VAT to pay :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Peter Collen (of AP racing) is a fountain of knowledge when it comes to picking AP racing parts. 

 

Thanks for acknowledging me @will300 

 

I spoke to Martin Hadland about the CP9200 kit about 4 years ago before the CP9200 was out but I knew it was in development and a replacement to the CP5200.

Ultimately I decided I wanted a bigger 355mm disc because I am supercharged and wanted to run soft street friendly pads. Otherwise the Reyland kit with the CP9200 is the best 330mm kit for the 86 if you want road and track use. The Essex parts kits are excellent competition kits but the calipers wont last very well in your winter road conditions. 

 

So if you want a 330mm disc for road and track: Reyland 330mm CP9200

If you want a racing brake setup that can handle race pads without killing the caliper, but not a good idea for the road; Essex Endurance kit. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Another thing to note about these BBKs, especially the ones moving bias forward; that may be a good thing.

Stock suspension with Mitchellin primacies will not product the same forward weight transfer under braking as for example, my car with a supercharger (+20kg in the engine bay), Ohlins, and 235 wide AD08R tyres.

Certainly @DanJ hasnt had a problem on the full impreza brembo setup and he is pretty quick on the track too. 

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Another thing to note about these BBKs, especially the ones moving bias forward; that may be a good thing.
Stock suspension with Mitchellin primacies will not product the same forward weight transfer under braking as for example, my car with a supercharger (+20kg in the engine bay), Ohlins, and 235 wide AD08R tyres.
Certainly [mention=1360]DanJ[/mention] hasnt had a problem on the full impreza brembo setup and he is pretty quick on the track too. 
 
 
Agree, I have the brembo setup front and rear. SC and oil cooler at the front, stripped out at the back, 255 and 235 ps4 tyres, I gobble people up in the braking zones.

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Another thing to note about these BBKs, especially the ones moving bias forward; that may be a good thing.
Stock suspension with Mitchellin primacies will not product the same forward weight transfer under braking as for example, my car with a supercharger (+20kg in the engine bay), Ohlins, and 235 wide AD08R tyres.
Certainly [mention=1360]DanJ[/mention] hasnt had a problem on the full impreza brembo setup and he is pretty quick on the track too. 
 
 
Add to it most of the NA modified cars have a lighter manifold and overpipe than stock, circa 3Kg less 6kg vs 9 IIRC. So matters even more I guess.

Sent from my FIG-LX1 using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, maurice said:

Re: Essex endurance kit - it's pretty dumb to buy a British product from an American supplier. Customs and shipping companies will love you.

Well the kit is put together and tested by Essex which are an america distributor for AP Racing. 

You cant buy a competition kit for the GT86 from AP in the UK as far as im aware. However Reyland would be able to make you one if you spec it out but then it wouldnt be a tried and tested setup, though risks are low if you know what you are donig with piston sizes and disc spec ect. Peter Collen can help with that.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Lightness of brakes shouldn't be taken to extreme and at expense of main function, stopping car reliably/predictably/for long time. Yes, as due construction/design, often BBKs let save unsprung/rotational weight too (due eg. lighter calipers, that might be monopiece, and or forged, also due common for BBKs dual piece construction of iron/steel outside and aluminium hubs unlike all iron monopiece disks of most OE brakes), but one can also go overboard with lightening and end up with brakes of less thermal capacity then even stockers, which will compromise one  of  main reasons many buy BBKs - for them to last longer on track. Drilling/slotting rotors also will make them less reliable and will reduce their thermal capacity.

Digging around my bookmarks .. pitty this website seems not available currently, but may illustrate what i mean, with very very lightweight brake kit for drag racing, but probably less capable & safe then even stock brakes.

I'd rather look at other specs when choosing BBK, like bias closeness to OE, thermal capacity, possibility to add airducts if needed, street daily driving "friendliness", pad shape commonality/how wide is choice of misc pads in that shape, how much wearables like rotors/pads of that kit cost, wheel clearance, relative closeness of local serviceability of brakes, kit cost .. lighter weight .. just free bonus to all that, not main goal in choice.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

@Varelco you could find stock brakes weight on the ft86 forum and will be able tell you how much the CP9200 weigh hopefully this or next week. Reyland just dispatched my kit. 

 

BTW I asked Reyland to add the kit on eBay because I was not comfortable giving my card details over the phone and they did. There are another 3 sets available on eBay if anyone is interested. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
17 minutes ago, vanko25 said:

@Varelco you could find stock brakes weight on the ft86 forum and will be able tell you how much the CP9200 weigh hopefully this or next week. Reyland just dispatched my kit. 

 

I did just that, according to our American friends (in proper units of measure);

OEM Front Caliper w/ bracket: 5.22kg

Front Discs: 7.7kg

OEM Rear Caliper w/ bracket: 2.63kg

Rear Discs: 5.98kg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
5 minutes ago, Church said:

Varelco: just rear disc weight? There is also weight of drum mechanism, drum brake shoes and such ..

It's irrelevant as you don't change anything on that mechanism.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Varelco: just that some BBKs manage to get extra weight savings with drum parking brake deletion from rears. Of course that should immediately make car non street legal/mot impassable.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
5 hours ago, Varelco said:

I did just that, according to our American friends (in proper units of measure);

OEM Front Caliper w/ bracket: 5.22kg

Front Discs: 7.7kg

OEM Rear Caliper w/ bracket: 2.63kg

Rear Discs: 5.98kg

Here's the weight of the Reyland setup - taken from the AP Racing website

CP9200 Calipers without pads & brackets: 2.43kg

330mm x 28mm AP Racing brake rotor (Not including the hat/bell): 5.94kg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Interesting topic with some good info. From my searching over that last few months I had settled on the K-Sport 330mm kit.

Anyone know of any bias information for this kit? One thing I haven't found much info on. People who track the setup don't seem to have any complaints on the feel but would be interesting to know. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I wouldnt recommend K sport. I think both Keith's had issues with the K sport kits.

Regarding BBK weight, even my 355x32mm discs and 6 piston calipers is lighter than the stock (though not much iirc).

 

 

 

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, Ade said:

I wouldnt recommend K sport. I think both Keith's had issues with the K sport kits.

Both Keith's did indeed have issues, however that was with the older version of the kit.

K-Sport have since updated their caliper design, which the likes of @VAD17 & a couple of others have run with out issue. 

(The Pro's & Con's I produced on the 1st page, apply to both versions of the K-Sport kit)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Had the reyland kit (reyland curved groove discs) fitted last week. Produces a fair amount of brake dust but nothing a half decent wheel cleaner can't shift (and then deposit on to the road... oops) but other than that, the feel is great and didn't have any issues at the sprint at the weekend (although hardly the heaviest on brakes!)

One issue I sort of have is when applying the brakes in reverse, there's a clunk when the pedal is pressed. Has anyone else experienced it? It only does it when the wheels are going backwards (jacked it up and span the wheels and it'll still do it).

Only possibilities I can think of is the pads having some movement (although they seem solid), the discs having some play around the studs - they do with the wheel off but would have thought the wheel + nuts would clamp it on tight enough so there's no movement. The only thing I could find loose was the brake line on the drivers side where the braided line connects to the main line. The clip is on properly but it's like the groove is too high on the braided line so the clip is just keeping it in the general area and not tight like the passenger side. Thoughts anyone?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×