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br0wny

P000A issues

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Hi all,

Back in January my car threw EML and slip light and when taken into Toyota Wakefield, came back with the 'P000A camshaft position sensor slow to respond' code. 

They cleared the code and let the tech use the car for the week to see if it returned - it didn't - and was put down to a hiccup. I had a long discussion with various techs and managers regarding the potential dangers of further damage and they assured me not to worry - Ok on my way I go :)

The car ran absolutely fine until last wednesday where driving from Harrogate to Leeds it felt very subdued to a point it didn't actually accelerate on the motorway, had little to no throttle response, nearly stalled when idling and smelt very VERY hot when stationary. Also seemed much louder on WOT and didn't seem to get anywhere and there was vibration through the car when accelerating. 
It was late so I put the car away to deal with another day.
On saturday I decided to take it for a spin and the symptoms were still there so I connected to my Carista obd2 dongle and got the same 'P000A camshaft position sensor slow to respond' but this time showing as pending rather than a stored code and had no EML. I put the car away. 

The Car has been in, and is still in, Toyota again however they claim they can't find the 'P000A camshaft position sensor slow to respond' code anywhere. I assume it hasn't faulted and the car has cleared the code itself??? They could however see the ABS codes from the car being on a rolling road 😇
Toyota Wakefield won't take my word or proof I got the code despite it being a 2nd occurrence as enough to start changing sensors/OCV etc as a safety buffer.

Midway through the whole ordeal the car had a FULL 4yr service and the TD NA package done by mike and the gang and the car was driving perfectly afterwards all until this strange scenario last wednesday night. Toyota Wakefield haven't said anything about mods causing issue/warranty void etc which is nice...

Just wondering where to go from here as I am due to set off on a 3 week/4000 mile road trip around europe in the car in 3 weeks time. Does anybody have any ideas or info that could help me get sorted? 

Cheers

Dan

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I'd say it probably is worth to take a look if the new manifold is not very close to your camshaft position sensor and the actuator itself. If the manifold is getting really hot it might affect the correct working order. 

As I said it is just a thought. I might be completely wrong. :)

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It sounds like your cam is getting stuck or there is a problem with the sensor.

Have you got an oil pressure gauge? The cams are controlled by oil pressure and an actuator that can fail.

 

 

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4 hours ago, br0wny said:

It felt very subdued to a point it didn't actually accelerate on the motorway, had little to no throttle response, nearly stalled when idling and smelt very VERY hot when stationary. Also seemed much louder on WOT and didn't seem to get anywhere and there was vibration through the car when accelerating. 

This one sounds like exhaust restriction, or maybe a stuck brake. Did you TD exhaust change subsequently include a decat?

A pending code is waiting for a repeat to log it as a permanent error. Otherwise it can self-clear, and leave you with no justification for further investigation.

Your road trip will be utterly miserable if the car is acting up, but it's also intermittent so you're going to struggle to prove it's fixed. I think @vanko25 makes a good point. The long tube headers come up in front of the pulleys, so not very far from the sensors. You could temporarily lag them with a heat shield without huge difficulty.

P000A means intake, i.e. the upper cams, and I think it would be one on the side without the oil filter, but maybe someone else can confirm? I mean near the dipstick in this picture:

Subaru_BRZ_Tokyo_Motor_Show_2011_71.jpg

 

You could try re-seating the connectors for the sensor, and perhaps having a spare sensor in the car in case it gives up entirely and you need to get it fixed, but that's a desperate measure. Much more likely an engine out job to get into the heads.

Do you have a healthy battery? Voltage issues can cause all kinds of gremlins.

Is the oil the Toyota recommended stuff, or something else?

At this stage you're weighing up cost of various approaches versus the cost of hiring a car for the road-trip, and waiting for a more precise diagnostic. It's £££ all the way :(

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I think you are going to have to wait for an EML before you can take it in again. The down pipe which comes up from the collector to the manifold is nowhere near the cam sensors. Plus it's wrapped. Can't see that being an issue. 

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3 hours ago, Ade said:

It sounds like your cam is getting stuck or there is a problem with the sensor.

Have you got an oil pressure gauge? The cams are controlled by oil pressure and an actuator that can fail.

 

 

I was hoping as a repeat visit they would at least change the OCV this time but nope as no hard stored code :( the OCV is something you can do on the drive so contemplating buying one to change it for the sake of £70 for the OCV

Toyota quoted about £250 for new OCV, cam sensor and labour... but said they wouldnt want me paying for something that would be covered under warranty if they had a code to work from :( 

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1 hour ago, nerdstrike said:

This one sounds like exhaust restriction, or maybe a stuck brake. Did you TD exhaust change subsequently include a decat?

A pending code is waiting for a repeat to log it as a permanent error. Otherwise it can self-clear, and leave you with no justification for further investigation.

Your road trip will be utterly miserable if the car is acting up, but it's also intermittent so you're going to struggle to prove it's fixed. I think @vanko25 makes a good point. The long tube headers come up in front of the pulleys, so not very far from the sensors. You could temporarily lag them with a heat shield without huge difficulty.

P000A means intake, i.e. the upper cams, and I think it would be one on the side without the oil filter, but maybe someone else can confirm? I mean near the dipstick in this picture:

Subaru_BRZ_Tokyo_Motor_Show_2011_71.jpg

 

You could try re-seating the connectors for the sensor, and perhaps having a spare sensor in the car in case it gives up entirely and you need to get it fixed, but that's a desperate measure. Much more likely an engine out job to get into the heads.

Do you have a healthy battery? Voltage issues can cause all kinds of gremlins.

Is the oil the Toyota recommended stuff, or something else?

At this stage you're weighing up cost of various approaches versus the cost of hiring a car for the road-trip, and waiting for a more precise diagnostic. It's £££ all the way :(

thanks for taking the time to reply, the NA package includes a catless manifold but its also wrapped in titanium heat wrap so should be ok and nobody else has encountered this problem which when the EML was on was before the changed were made.

I think the sensor for the intake is at the rear but may be wrong i could always try reseating the OCV sensor as thats easy to get to.

the battery is spot on no issues there and the oil TD use is proper toyota 0w20 

Im going to book it in to have exhaust checked for any leaks/blocked 2nd cat as there is some kind of exhaust rattle under heavy load... 

 

just to note, the issue is covered under warranty so as yet has cost me £0 :D

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1 hour ago, Lauren said:

I think you are going to have to wait for an EML before you can take it in again. The down pipe which comes up from the collector to the manifold is nowhere near the cam sensors. Plus it's wrapped. Can't see that being an issue. 

this seems to be consensus going forward 

The wife was going to use the car for work but she hates driving it and I would like to keep my clutch intact 😂 shes never once had issues with clutches but the 86 is a bastard at the best of times haha

on a plus side the car is covered by toyota warranty worldwide so if it did happen whilst abroad i could get recovered to a local toyota garage and they could contact my local dealership for info spozedly 🤗

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