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George

Adjustable toe?

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Hi folks. 

Iv fitted new wheels, tein coilovers and the whiteline lower control arm on the rear to adjust the camber. After fitting everything and puting the car back on the ground it looks like iv gained some toe in. Iv not been for an alignment yet but I can tell just by looking at it the toe isn't rite. Will getting the alignment done sort this as I don't know if the standard toe arm has any adjustments? Has anyone else had lowering the car upset the toe and am I now looking at buying adjustable toe arms?

Thanks. 

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Someone more knowledgeable will be along shortly but from what I know, the stock toe arms have adjustment but depending on how for you've gone they can run out of headroom and then would need to be replaced with aftermarket arms.

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Yes, twins have stock toe adjustment for both front & rear. There is no camber adjustment stock. In most cases one won't need anything extra but stock toe adjustment capabilities, but yes, there might be some cases of lowering/camber (as adjusting toe to some extent affects camber and vice versa) settings with aftermarket parts, when stock toe adjustment range might be insufficient to get wished toe in alignment settings and warrant purchase of aftermarket adjustable toe arms of usually greater adjustment range.

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It will be miles out after fitting coilovers. This happens to everyone.  All can be solved with an alignment. Toe front and rear is adjustable. Stock track rods don't seem to have the length it seems to maximise camber at the rear but you should still be able to get nigh on 2 degrees negative there. 

Aim for 2.5 degrees neg camber front and around 2 at the rear. 

Toe parallel for front and a small amount of toe in at the rear for stability. 

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Thanks that's exactly what I wanted to hear. I realised the toe in on the rear is down to the lower control arms being on max negative camber which put everything on the rear out. I'm going to adjust the ride hight a bit now it's settled on the coilovers and I'll reset the camber front and back to basicaly 0 to get me to the he alignment. Then I'll aim for the setting you suggested. Thanks again 

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Annoyingly I had to cut off both front drop links as they were rusted solid. Seeing as I need new ones I'll get adjustable ones seeing as the ARB angle will be wrong now.  It going to measure up tonight to see what length I want. Am I right in thinking the ARB wants to be level? 

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George: actually stock alignment is not zero camber and zero toe all around. IIRC it was 0 camber and toe front, -1.2 camber and slight toe-in rear. For performance alignment people prefer rising camber front to reduce understeer. Not sure that camber "and back to basically 0" is best.

 

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15 hours ago, Church said:

George: actually stock alignment is not zero camber and zero toe all around. IIRC it was 0 camber and toe front, -1.2 camber and slight toe-in rear. For performance alignment people prefer rising camber front to reduce understeer. Not sure that camber "and back to basically 0" is best.

 

I think you miss understand. I'm only setting everything to 0 just to get me around for a few days and so I can drive to the alignment place. Not that i want 0 as my permanent setting. 

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