Jump to content
Delirious_

Aftermarket Wheels & TPMS

Recommended Posts

I'm currently in progress of sorting this out as in the same situation but don't have the original wheels as an option for swapping so I've gone for option 2b.

I have read the original sensors codes direct from the ECU and bought cloneable sensors and programmer for less than the prices quoted above. I've programmed them with the OEM codes. They are read ok by the programmer and the matching id is displayed. Not managed to get them detected by the car though, but this is without any pressure. I must admit I thought they would be detected but still report an error due to lack of pressure rather than not be detected. However I have read that they don't transmit when no pressure or even rotating (I don't believe rotation is an issue but this might depend on sensor make). I will post up when I make some further progress.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi scbrc 

Did you make any progress? If it worked I would be interested to know what you did as I would rather not have the tpms light on the dash with aftermarket wheels if it can be helped. 

Cheers 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sorry I missed your request for an update.

But only now can I confirm that I've today removed the tyre pressure warning light that will now FAIL the MOT if on. (This should probably be made a sticky as its going to come up more in the future.) (pics attached)

I first need to state I didn't want to have to go to a tyre place or main dealer to sort this out, I wanted to do myself to learn about the car etc.

I had investigated buying new OEM sensors (price varied from £45 each, some members paid £150 for one sensor from Toyota),  so this would be at least £180 for 4 sensors. If you wanted them just for winter tyres then you would need to reprogram the car ECU every time the tyres are changed as the sensor ID's would be different.  Buying second hand sensors. These seemed to be available from the USA, however TPMS uses 315MHZ in the USA whereas Europe is 433MHZ, and would also need reprogramming in the TPMS ECU. You also have to be aware TPMS are disposable items as they basically run off a sealed watch battery in the sensor. Buying second hand could be false economy depending on how long keeping the car. Every car will fail an MOT in the future when the batteries run out so its going to get expensive to keep modern cars on the road as they get older.

The other option was to use programmable sensors. These can be programmed to match (clone) the ids of the sensors already programmed in the car TPMS ECU. This means that the ECU does not need reprogramming and you could use this for a second set of wheels.

To do this though you either need the existing sensors out of the wheels to read the code from, or you could read from in the wheel with a scanner. As I don't have the OEM wheels with the sensors (someone on here probably has them, on an older car without TPMS!) I needed to read the sensor codes from the car ECU.

To do this I got a diagnostic lead and a copy of Techstream. (This was scary as chosing a source of this is tricky as most come riddled with viruses/trojans.) Once I got this installed and connected I read the 4 sensor codes from the car TPMS ECU. This has a handy print out option.

08/11/2018 21:13:13

[Tire Pressure Monitor Live] System

[Parameter]    [Value]    [Unit]
Registered ID 1 Code    11C6A3E    
Registered ID 4 Code    1136AE7    
Registered ID 3 Code    11A648D    
Registered ID 2 Code    11C6ADC    

(I changed some of the values above just incase posting them on the internet is not a good idea in the future!)

In this process I found out that I could actually recode the sensor IDs into the ECU, so using new sensors would still be an option. I choose to use the reprogrammable clone-able ones though as they were cheaper than the precoded ones anyway.  The downside with the programmable sensors is that although they arrive coded with a random code, they are not programmed for a particular car so they won't talk. To resolve this you need to program them to the specific car, and at the same time set the ID code into the sensor. Unfortunately they wouldn't do this where I bought them from which I requested when I ordered, so this meant that I had to buy a programmer to program the sensors.

Using the codes above I programmed each sensor and tested it. All working on the programmer showing that the sensors were working. However when I put inside the car I could not get the error light to go out and faults were reporting missing sensors still. It turns out tyre pressure sensors are funny things. After much research it appears to prolong the battery life they don't seem to transmit if they are not under pressure. This seems wrong as you would expect them to report a flat tyre. They don't do this they report a drop. If they go completely flat while the car is off the error light is lit due to the sensors being missing, so I guess its still telling you there is a problem.

This left me with a problem I would have to get my tyres removed from my aftermarket wheels and refitted/balanced just to test if the sensors would talk to the car. I hate getting tyres changed anyway as they always damage something. To get round this I was inspired by the TPMS pipe bomb. Google it.

I made this out of solvent waste plumbing pieces. At first this was not an option as too small for the sensors, but I realised that you can remove the valves from the sensors and then they fit inside the pipe. I tested this today with the pressure in the pipe at 35psi. The car also needs to be running for it to read the sensors, just having the ignition on did not seem to work. The error light was initially there, as the sensors communicate randomly, also for some reason the car had the minimum pressure set to 45psi!. I got round this by increasing the pressure in the pipe to 60psi. The light went out once all the sensors had reported in. After reducing the pressure in the pipe the light came back on. This time I reset the TPMS on the car. You have to hold the TPMS reset button not just until the light flashes but until the light goes out.

I had to buy the following items to resolve and test this works successfully.

  1. 1x UK Mini VCI J2543 For TOYOTA TIS Techstream Diagnostic Interface Cable (£13) (found that my Tactrix cable works with this so I might sell this)
  2. 4x Autel MX-Sensor 433MHz Programmable Universal TPMS Sensor (£88)
  3. 1x Autel MaxiTPMS PAD TPMS Sensor Programming Device (£50)
  4. 2 x 40mm solvent weld waste access plugs.(£1.50)
  5. 2x 40mm solvent weld waste couplers.(£1.50)
  6. Short piece of 40mm solvent weld pipe. (I had this)
  7. Tire valve (I had this)
  8. Solvent weld glue (I had this)

So roughly £150 to resolve, which compared to new OEM sensors is between 1/4 - 1/2 price. One outstanding interesting point would be to see if you could enter the same sensor id for all 4 sensors to avoid using 4 different sensors or change the number of wheels to 1 (I doubt this would work though).

Remaining optional step is to get the sensors fitted to the tyres ;-). 

If anyone else decides to go down the same route, I have the programmer expense to recoup so could program your sensors to match your car for a small fee+postage!.

Any questions just ask.

sensor.JPG

warning light.JPG

P1110804.JPG

P1110807.JPG

TPMSData.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

To follow up on this, I purchased wheels and tyres, and made a decision to take the car to Toyota to get them to swap the sensors over (my thinking being, they are probably less likely to break them, and if they do, they should have no problem in replacing them). I had a particularly frustrating call with them this morning when I tried to book the car in (lots of on hold, lots of them not knowing wtf I was talking about, lots of me having to explain what 'aftermarket wheels' are). Their costs also practically doubled, as 'the provious quote was only to install the sensors into the new wheels, not remove them from old wheels too' - did they think I was going to levitate the car to them had I managed to take the old tyres off and remove the sensors at home?! Literally every interaction I've had with Toyota since buying this car has been a nightmare.

Anyway, I thanked them for their time and said goodbye, and booked the car into a local 'reputable' tyre/ MOT place to get them to swap the sensors over and install the new wheels/ tyres. The guy was a little concerned with fitting them to the new wheels and whether or not they'll fit properly. I'm tempted to buy one from eBay (£45 - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Toyota-GT86-2014-TPMS-tyre-pressure-sensor-OE-number-42607-02031/123241807333?epid=853235497&hash=item1cb1c8bde5:g:xvAAAOSwn6JcLLDe:rk:1:pf:1 - looks to be the correct one?) and make sure it fits myself, and also to have it as a spare should one break (I know it'll still need reprogramming). He also seems to be a bit 'by the book' and was hesitant to fit wider wheels/ tyres than the factory spec, and took a little convincing. But, his prices and location are good.

Alternatively, I forget all about the sensors, put up with the dashboard light and swap my stock wheels on every year come MOT time, however, they are fairly worn (I'll measure the tread depth after work), and I'm not sure how long they'd last just sitting in the garage unused for years?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 1/11/2019 at 6:40 PM, scbrz said:

Sorry I missed your request for an update.

But only now can I confirm that I've today removed the tyre pressure warning light that will now FAIL the MOT if on. (This should probably be made a sticky as its going to come up more in the future.) (pics attached)

I first need to state I didn't want to have to go to a tyre place or main dealer to sort this out, I wanted to do myself to learn about the car etc.

I had investigated buying new OEM sensors (price varied from £45 each, some members paid £150 for one sensor from Toyota),  so this would be at least £180 for 4 sensors. If you wanted them just for winter tyres then you would need to reprogram the car ECU every time the tyres are changed as the sensor ID's would be different.  Buying second hand sensors. These seemed to be available from the USA, however TPMS uses 315MHZ in the USA whereas Europe is 433MHZ, and would also need reprogramming in the TPMS ECU. You also have to be aware TPMS are disposable items as they basically run off a sealed watch battery in the sensor. Buying second hand could be false economy depending on how long keeping the car. Every car will fail an MOT in the future when the batteries run out so its going to get expensive to keep modern cars on the road as they get older.

The other option was to use programmable sensors. These can be programmed to match (clone) the ids of the sensors already programmed in the car TPMS ECU. This means that the ECU does not need reprogramming and you could use this for a second set of wheels.

To do this though you either need the existing sensors out of the wheels to read the code from, or you could read from in the wheel with a scanner. As I don't have the OEM wheels with the sensors (someone on here probably has them, on an older car without TPMS!) I needed to read the sensor codes from the car ECU.

To do this I got a diagnostic lead and a copy of Techstream. (This was scary as chosing a source of this is tricky as most come riddled with viruses/trojans.) Once I got this installed and connected I read the 4 sensor codes from the car TPMS ECU. This has a handy print out option.


08/11/2018 21:13:13

[Tire Pressure Monitor Live] System

[Parameter]    [Value]    [Unit]
Registered ID 1 Code    11C6A3E    
Registered ID 4 Code    1136AE7    
Registered ID 3 Code    11A648D    
Registered ID 2 Code    11C6ADC    

(I changed some of the values above just incase posting them on the internet is not a good idea in the future!)

In this process I found out that I could actually recode the sensor IDs into the ECU, so using new sensors would still be an option. I choose to use the reprogrammable clone-able ones though as they were cheaper than the precoded ones anyway.  The downside with the programmable sensors is that although they arrive coded with a random code, they are not programmed for a particular car so they won't talk. To resolve this you need to program them to the specific car, and at the same time set the ID code into the sensor. Unfortunately they wouldn't do this where I bought them from which I requested when I ordered, so this meant that I had to buy a programmer to program the sensors.

Using the codes above I programmed each sensor and tested it. All working on the programmer showing that the sensors were working. However when I put inside the car I could not get the error light to go out and faults were reporting missing sensors still. It turns out tyre pressure sensors are funny things. After much research it appears to prolong the battery life they don't seem to transmit if they are not under pressure. This seems wrong as you would expect them to report a flat tyre. They don't do this they report a drop. If they go completely flat while the car is off the error light is lit due to the sensors being missing, so I guess its still telling you there is a problem.

This left me with a problem I would have to get my tyres removed from my aftermarket wheels and refitted/balanced just to test if the sensors would talk to the car. I hate getting tyres changed anyway as they always damage something. To get round this I was inspired by the TPMS pipe bomb. Google it.

I made this out of solvent waste plumbing pieces. At first this was not an option as too small for the sensors, but I realised that you can remove the valves from the sensors and then they fit inside the pipe. I tested this today with the pressure in the pipe at 35psi. The car also needs to be running for it to read the sensors, just having the ignition on did not seem to work. The error light was initially there, as the sensors communicate randomly, also for some reason the car had the minimum pressure set to 45psi!. I got round this by increasing the pressure in the pipe to 60psi. The light went out once all the sensors had reported in. After reducing the pressure in the pipe the light came back on. This time I reset the TPMS on the car. You have to hold the TPMS reset button not just until the light flashes but until the light goes out.

I had to buy the following items to resolve and test this works successfully.

  1. 1x UK Mini VCI J2543 For TOYOTA TIS Techstream Diagnostic Interface Cable (£13) (found that my Tactrix cable works with this so I might sell this)
  2. 4x Autel MX-Sensor 433MHz Programmable Universal TPMS Sensor (£88)
  3. 1x Autel MaxiTPMS PAD TPMS Sensor Programming Device (£50)
  4. 2 x 40mm solvent weld waste access plugs.(£1.50)
  5. 2x 40mm solvent weld waste couplers.(£1.50)
  6. Short piece of 40mm solvent weld pipe. (I had this)
  7. Tire valve (I had this)
  8. Solvent weld glue (I had this)

So roughly £150 to resolve, which compared to new OEM sensors is between 1/4 - 1/2 price. One outstanding interesting point would be to see if you could enter the same sensor id for all 4 sensors to avoid using 4 different sensors or change the number of wheels to 1 (I doubt this would work though).

Remaining optional step is to get the sensors fitted to the tyres ;-). 

If anyone else decides to go down the same route, I have the programmer expense to recoup so could program your sensors to match your car for a small fee+postage!.

Any questions just ask.

sensor.JPG

warning light.JPG

P1110804.JPG

P1110807.JPG

TPMSData.jpg

 

As an update to the above how to, I can finally report my car passed its first MOT like this. Now I can get the replacement sensors fitted to the aftermarket wheels when the tyres are worn out and replaced at my leisure.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Don’t know if it’s to early to say yet but I changed my wheels yesterday. Had the flashing tpms light then it stayed constant. Anyway started this car this morning for work then had the tpms light flashing for a while then it went out completely. Now it was only a 10-15min drive but it never came back on. So I will keep an eye on this but maybe they made some changes on the newer models

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If you do short journeys and you sensors are still close enough to your car when you get home the light may never come on. Its only until you're in the car for a bit longer and venture further out does the light come back on again.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
8 minutes ago, Varelco said:

If you do short journeys and you sensors are still close enough to your car when you get home the light may never come on. Its only until you're in the car for a bit longer and venture further out does the light come back on again.

My sensors are in my back garden in the shed so the car wouldn’t pick them up from the drive.  Just done another 10min drive with no more lights showing

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
21 hours ago, Daninplymouth said:

 Just done another 10min drive with no more lights showing

All the time you keep the journeys short you are all good, it won't come back up. As soon as you go for a longer drive it will come back on

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
9 hours ago, Varelco said:

All the time you keep the journeys short you are all good, it won't come back up. As soon as you go for a longer drive it will come back on

I done a 15-20min drive tonight and nothing again. And still no lights at all on start up

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

My TPMS light flashes and then goes on permanently every journey.

I am resigned to buying a new set of sensors the next time I change the tyres ( which is coming up soon).

Sent from my LG-Q6 using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 hours ago, MartinT said:

My TPMS light flashes and then goes on permanently every journey.

I am resigned to buying a new set of sensors the next time I change the tyres ( which is coming up soon).

Sent from my LG-Q6 using Tapatalk
 

Can I ask what year yours is? I’m wondering if any changes have been made on the facelift models as my light has still yet to return 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
My TPMS light flashes and then goes on permanently every journey.

I am resigned to buying a new set of sensors the next time I change the tyres ( which is coming up soon).

Sent from my LG-Q6 using Tapatalk


Let us know if you find reasonably priced (not DIY) option. I will need new sensors coded if I decide the light bothers me too much.

Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It's a mot failure now I believe. The carista app can amend the sensor id. When I change my wheels I will keep the original wheels for winter so will have to swap ids over when I change

Sent from my LYA-L29 using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 4/9/2019 at 10:26 AM, Varelco said:

All the time you keep the journeys short you are all good, it won't come back up. As soon as you go for a longer drive it will come back on

Ah I think it might be related to distant travelled as I just done a straight 10min drive at 70 and the light came on.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've just had new TPMS sensors fitted to my aftermarket wheels, 4 x i-SMARTSENSOR.  ProTyre thought my ECU might 'learn' the new code after driving for a bit, but no such luck.  I'll need to heave one of the stock wheels into the boot and go back there to have it cloned to the new sensors.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I've just had new TPMS sensors fitted to my aftermarket wheels, 4 x i-SMARTSENSOR.  ProTyre thought my ECU might 'learn' the new code after driving for a bit, but no such luck.  I'll need to heave one of the stock wheels into the boot and go back there to have it cloned to the new sensors.
Thanks for the info, I looked at ProTyre as an option for new sensors, but I unfortunately dont have my old ones. Just wonder how easy/ difficult would be to find the code without them?

Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
22 minutes ago, VAD17 said:

Thanks for the info, I looked at ProTyre as an option for new sensors, but I unfortunately dont have my old ones. Just wonder how easy/ difficult would be to find the code without them?

Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk
 

I've just had new wheels and fit tpms sensors to them. Bought the autel maxi sensors and programmer.  Very easy to do. If you've got a obd Bluetooth/WiFi adaptor you can get the codes using the free version of carista.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I had the TPMS issue with a damaged valve and leaking air. I purchased an autel sensor and used @scbrz to help clone the blank autel sensor with the TPMS sensor code. I read the code on my car with the Carista app but had to do a bit of a fiddling around to know which one was on which tyre by removing air and then refilling it to see pressures move. For anyone wanting to do it 5 simple steps:

1. Identify your faulty sensor /s.

2. Read your sensor codes using Carista app on your phone. You will need a carista dongle or bluetooth OBD2 reader to get it to read.

3. Get in touch with @scbrz  via PM and get his help to configure/clone the sensors correct.

4. Go to a tyre repair shop and swap the valves across.

5. Reset your TPMS sensor on your car to read it.

PS: Carista also gives you an opportunity to edit the sensor codes, if you plan to get pre configured sensors but this is a paid service i believe. Carista premium can be rented for £10/mth IIRC.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×