Oils and fuels to use

[ZN6 1]

I am  a late comer to GT86 ownership and as such many of the teething troubles and discussions are long gone as are some of of the experts and the owners.

My questions are simple as are my comments.

Oils! 

Extreme confusion re right engine oil, just go into auto store and type in to the oil advice.

zero w 20 suggested, by Toyota, 5w by Subie and most oil guys.

mobil one? 

diff oil? must have friction component. GLS5

gearbox api spec?

 

Fuel.

98 ron ok.

avgas no too dry.

10/94 ethanol ok according to Toyota.

95 ron?.

Brake fluid  as supplied useful for normal driving.

pretty poor in mountains on winding roads.

GT brakes underdone bias fair.

can be rectified by fitting brz attach brackets brz gts rotors front 299 up from 277

and rear vented same diameter but more rotating metal so runs cooler at 18 mm vented instead if 10 mm solids, and retaining gt calipers throws bias back to the front by  a few % 

dba pads or hardie ferodo metals.

see mtc racing utube video.

 

 

[Church 209]

These cars don't have any more printed manual, but you can download pdf from toyota sites. Several points OE oil specs are covered like there. Also i suggest to dig around or search (using google, by adding site: keyword) on ft86club.com, as biggest english speaking twins related forum, that has many threads discussing many things, and many DIY guides.

Personally i use OE engine oil (5.2lr (5.5 qt., 4.6 imp. qt.) w/o filter, 5.4lr (5. qt., 4.8 imp.qt)) and filters changed during regular maintenance intervals at dealership. According manual Toyota Genuine Motor Oil, oil grade: SAE 0W-20 (preferred) and 5W-30 (but should be replaced with SAE 0W-20 at next change interval) API grade SL "Energy-Conserving", SM "Energy-Convserving", SN "Resource-Conserving" or ILSAC multigrade engine oil. If you live in warmer climate, and if car is more of a track toy, then you may consider higher viscosity oil to better keep oil pressure at high loads, eg. running permanently 5W-30. If tracked, imho also better change oil at shorter intervals, and it's worth thinking about adding oil cooling solution, eg. liquid2oil sandwitch or separate air2oil cooling rad. If tracked on very sticky tires and lots of aero, then also something should be done to sump, to lessen oil starvation possibility at high-rpm high-speed high-G long sweepers.

OEM gearbox oil: 2.2lr API GL-3 SAE 75W-90 | Toyota Genuine MG Gear Oil special II, OEM w. LSD diff oil: 1.15lr API GL-5 SAE 75W-85 or GL-5 SAE 75W-90 | Toyota Genuine Differential Gear Oil LT. GL-3 is old standard, GL-4 should do fine. If universal oil, then Motul Gear 300 (passed both GL-4 & GL-5) should do for both tranny & diff. Subjectively i got a bit better gear engaging, especially cold 2nd, with Redline MTL GL4 70W80 in gearbox & trans brace (eg. Perrin's or Cusco's).

95 ron is safe to run with no restrictions by manual, but you'll get less power and worse economy .. so imho it makes sense to choose always fill 98. And if you have available E85 ethanol, then one may think of getting E85 tune or flexfuel kit & tune and drive on E85 for power gain.

Brake fluid by manual, FMVSS No.116 fresh DOT 3 or DOT 4 brake fluid. Stock one is very easy overheat on track. Stock pads too. I strongly advise upgrade both prior visiting track. Brake fluids with higher boiling temps may cost more, but one will boil them less/will need to flush them less often, so i see no reason not to go for better stuff initially. Personally i am on Motul RBF660 brake fluid (IIRC 2 bottles might be needed if complete flush, 1 for topping off) and Ferrodo DS2500 (hybrid dual use imho) pads (on mostly daily driven car with rare trackdays thrown in). If one seriously tracks and moves up on stickier tires, worth going for good track pads, but then one will get brake squeeling issues during daily driving (as if driving by legal limits you won't be able to get enough heat in/bed brakes properly, and bedded layer will wear off). Best, if possible, - switching between DD & track pads sets to have best of both according use.

Hmm, i'm not familiar with what brakes are fitted on AUDM cars, but i wouldn't want to change brake bias in any way. Doing it wrong may make braking worse & unsafe. Moving bias too much front or too much rear will make one end lock sooner, other still be underbraked, can interfer with working with electronic nannies, can increase braking distance, can make your car spin with no nannies in heavy braking. In short, toyobaru engineers know what they are doing and had way more testing time in different scenarious to not try outsmart them and make brakes worse by skewing bias. As in not freely retrofit brakes, whose calipers "fit" (as in can be mounted) (eg. STI/Evo/Cadillac brembo-s swaps, just to get branding on calipers :/ ), not freely change disks, use same compound pads front-rear, if aftermarket brake kits, then of reputable vendor that tries to keep brake bias close to OE (especially if eg. BBK consists of front only and is meant to work with OE rears). Sometimes it might be worth to change bias, but then one should really know what he is doing. For example - staggered tire setup, or heavy aero on one end only. Have no nfo on AUDM stockers, but stock EUDM brakes (with uprated pads & fluid) work fine for me for 15min track sessions with medium grip tires (eg. stock sized PSS or AD08R), which i find rather good result for stock brakes. If going for stickier tires (eg. 245 RE71 or some hoosiers slicks) and if installed forced induction and would want longer sessions .. i'd probably think of getting BBK instead of fiddling with stockers.

[bassett 48]

Had my 86 recently serviced by the guys at Abbey Motorsport and they used

Engine oil Miller's 5w30 XF C3

Diff oil Miller's 75w90 CRX LS NT fully synthetic

Brake fluid Miller's dot 4

 

[MartinT 514]

For road use, 0W-20 is what I use for topping up. Not that it uses much. I add Archoil AR9400 after every oil change.

Fuels vary, I don't use 95 RON. She'll V-Power 98 feels the best, BP Ultimate 97 also feels good. Supermarket super-unleaded fuel causes hesitation in pickup and is just as you would expect for much lower prices. I avoid it. I also add Archoil AR6900-P to every tank.

[Church 209]

You should take note, that OP author is from the land down under. Imho it's very probable for fuel quality/specific fuel brands availability/climate to differ there from UK. I might be wrong, but IIRC i've seen posts from AU owners that at least ron95 is rather shitty there, but E85 quality/consistency is rather good ..

[Kodename47 446]

On 29/09/2018 at 1:17 PM, MartinT said:

She'll V-Power 98 feels the best

She'll is 99 RON  

[MartinT 514]

Ah, thanks for correcting me.  It used to be 98 when it was Shell Optimax.

[Kodename47 446]

10 hours ago, MartinT said:

Ah, thanks for correcting me.  It used to be 98 when it was Shell Optimax.

V-Power has always been 99. There seems to be some thoughts that it's no longer 99 as not advertised as such, but one of my local stations has been re-built and it's branded as 99 on the new pumps so happy to keep running it

[Lucas 244]

Tesco Momentum 99 here. Decent price and good fuel. Can't go wrong with that

[Iceman 0]

Oil engine can be 0W20 as manufacturer says, now regarding with engine codes, ACEA, and other shits I don/t think that will count too much because most of mechanics add different oil to the engines by eye or old aknowledgements. If manual say 0W20 without any particular code to take in count then add whatever you want with that viscosity. Mobil 1 seems to be good made in Belgium you can trust in that brand. Regarding fuel 95 ron could damage the fuel injectors but manual doesnt say anything, back fuel cap sayd 98 recomended, if is not then 95. Avoid tesco, saynsbury, asda etc. Pay for quality from esso or shell.

[Iceman 0]

On 9/29/2018 at 11:02 AM, bassett said:

Had my 86 recently serviced by the guys at Abbey Motorsport and they used

Engine oil Miller's 5w30 XF C3

Diff oil Miller's 75w90 CRX LS NT fully synthetic

Brake fluid Miller's dot 4

 

Big mistake with 5W30. Manual says 0W20 imagine if you use different oil the engine could be damaged before his standard life or usage.

[matrixprotein 33]

Big mistake with 5W30. Manual says 0W20 imagine if you use different oil the engine could be damaged before his standard life or usage.

Can you shut up and stop speaking nonsense

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[MartinT 514]

Abbey Motorsport specifically use 5W 30 for boosted cars like mine, and say that it can also be used in non-boosted cars giving a little more margin of protection.  0W 20 is specified for economy as it is less viscous.  5W 30 cannot damage the engine, at least not in this country (perhaps in Northern Canada it might be ill-advised)!

[Deacon 1357]

1 hour ago, Iceman said:

Big mistake with 5W30. Manual says 0W20 imagine if you use different oil the engine could be damaged before his standard life or usage.

This is incorrect. Manual states 0w20 or 5w30

[BRZ-123 174]

This is incorrect. Manual states 0w20 or 5w30

True both can be used but for non boosted 0W20 is preferred or prioritised. So Subaru says

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[BRZ-123 174]

Big mistake with 5W30. Manual says 0W20 imagine if you use different oil the engine could be damaged before his standard life or usage.

Relax man. Nothing lost. Totally safe

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[Deacon 1357]

Yes Toyota also say 0w20 is preferred but to say 0w30 is wrong is incorrect.

Toyota or Subaru wouldn't void a warranty claim for either oil as they're both stated in the manual.

[BRZ-123 174]

Yes Toyota also say 0w20 is preferred but to say 0w30 is wrong is incorrect.
Toyota or Subaru wouldn't void a warranty claim for either oil as they're both stated in the manual.

Agreed on 5W30. 0W30 is actually best of both worlds. Cold start plus better for track. May be it was a mis type but that's what I am using.

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[Kaltorak 111]

@Iceman

Maybe don't necro a 3 year old post, especially not when you're wrong? 

[Varelco 211]

On 3/21/2021 at 9:02 PM, matrixprotein said:

Can you shut up and stop speaking nonsense

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Chill my friend. 

Educate him, don't bash him, for he does not know what he speaks.

[Leeky 84]

I’ve recently switched from Shell VPower 99 to Esso Supreme 99 and I thoroughly recommend it.

Seems to pull harder (but probably a placebo) but definitely a lot quieter. Ever day I drive it I’m hearing fewer and fewer crickets.

Also I still use the standard 0w-20 from Toyota. I have an oil cooler and on track days I monitor my oil temp/pressure. I’ve not yet seen any need to switch grades.

[86iain 44]

I've used a mixture of Sainbury's 97 and whatever name Shell gave their 99. Depending on where I am.

Home - Sainbury's.

Work - Shell.

Regarding oil, I've only used 0w20.